INDEX

  

OVERVIEW

Since a lot of folks consider hiking and backpacking to be a three-season activity, I thought it might be helpful to create this "Winter Hiking & Backpacking" page. I hope it will (1) create awareness that hiking is a year-round sport (2) promote use of appropriate gear during the Winter season and (3) provide a little information that may help someone stay healthy & alive, while out in it.

 

STAY IN SHAPE DURING THE WINTER ?

Especially the older we get (I'm 50+), trying to "get in shape for the hiking season" results in significant physiological and psychological stress. Getting in shape and/or staying in shape is probably the main reason that many people, who otherwise enjoy hiking and backcountry activities, give it up.

There are numerous ways to stay in shape, during the Winter. The first requisite, though, is to make it a priority, otherwise you probably won't find the time, at least not on a consistent basis. My personal training regimen remains consistent throughout the year. I do leg, back, and neck stretches as well as abdominal exercises twice a day. Four or five times a week I exercise my leg and back muscles on a Health Rider machine (saw it advertised in Backpacker Mag.--don't regret getting one). I put 50 pounds of weight on it (under the seat) and proceed to do about 500 reps. Let's see, that's 50 lbs + my 170 lbs = 220 lbs that my legs are pushing 500 times. Then, after the stretching & machine warmups, I don a 40 pound pack, strap 5 pound weights on each ankle (in addition to a 2.5 pound Raichle Eiger boot on each foot) and proceed to hike 2 miles up and down the Cascade foothills around my home--again four or five times a week. Oh yeah, I forgot. I also go hiking, year around.

It's important for hiking, and especially backpacking, that we have strong lower back, upper back, and abdominal muscles, in addition to strong legs. Find exercises that strengthen those muscles. For example, a rowing machine--as well as a machine like the Health Rider--will work the back, leg, and ab muscles. For those of us who get bored sitting on a machine, get a bicycle and rowboat.

I have found, however, that lifting weights, machine workouts, jogging, etc., is appropriate and very helpful, but for some reason, the only activity that really keeps me in shape for alpine hiking, backpacking, and scrambling--which is what I do--is hiking. So how about you ? Find out what works for you and then JUST DO IT !


WINTER HIKING

There's probably a few good reasons to hang up the hiking boots during the Winter--I just can't think of one !

Many of the trails that we travel in Spring, Summer, and Fall are also available during the Winter. Many public parks, cities, and towns maintain a trails system, available year-round--some have special rules that apply to Winter use. If nothing else, it's a great way to keep those hiking muscles active.

Many of the lowland backcountry trails are also available year-round, albeit muddy. Trails in the mountains, (although buried in deep snow) are also traversable (with the help of some special gear). With some additional education, training, and gear, there's no reason we can't be just as actively hiking in the Winter as in the other three seasons.

Check it out ! Find out what's available in your area. You might be surprised at the possibilities. For the higher elevations, why not try snowshoeing ?


SNOWSHOEING

"If you can walk, you can snowshoe" is a popular and true saying. There isn't a long learning curve, it doesn't require a large investment--for specialized boots, fashion-statement clothing, lift-tickets and standing in long lines--and it doesn't require a lot of special techniques. You can start today, and have fun, immediately !

Personally, I find the nuances of snowshoeing to be intuitive. Not to slight established techniques, mind you, but I've been doing just fine for a number of years without any formal instruction.

Snowshoeing can accomodate a wide variety of activities--a casual hike in the woods, an overnight backpack trip, or an alpine climb--providing you with a workout to meet your needs, whatever they are. It's also a relatively inexpensive way to get the whole family out in it together.

One of the things that I like best about snowshoeing is that snowshoes are highly maneuverable, allowing me to go places where cross-country skiers and snowmobilers cannot go. I easily travel through thickly-wooded and/or steep terrain (where avalanche danger is not, of course). Another distinction between hiking in the other three seasons and hiking in the Winter snow via snowshoes is the experience of the quiet and serenity of the snow-covered landscape.
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SNOWSHOEING TIPS & TECHNIQUES

TIPS:

  • Always check your gear, before you go:
    • Are your snow poles telescoping okay ? Maybe a squirt of silicone is in order.
    • Any suspicious cracks in your snowshoe bindings ?
    • Survival gear & knowledge intact ?
    • Familiarity with the terrain you're going to ? Map ?
    • Don't leave home without the 14 essential-gear items !
    • Make sure someone at home knows where you are (in case of your emergency).
    • Duct tape for emergency patchwork on snow shoes & snow poles
  • Breaking the Trail:
    • If you snowshoe with other people (safer than going alone) take turns leading. It gets very tiring breaking the trail.
    • If you have energetic, want-to-go-fast young people in your group, put them in front and leave them there for as long as is practical and safe. Good for them, good for you.
    • When leading, take into consideration the pace of the slowest member of the group.
    • When leading, make your steps short enough so everyone in the group can follow in them.
    • When following, try to stay in the leader's footsteps whenever possible. This conserves your energy and retains a better, well-defined trail for those who follow you.
  • Take breaks, as necessary, to make adjustments to your clothing--try to stay dry--avoid chills.
  • Take frequent breaks to drink water and eat something. Snowshoeing is strenuous and burns off calories and uses up body fluids in the form of perspiration. REMEMBER: In the winter, because of the cold, you may not always get the obvious signs of perspiring, but you are, nonetheless, and those fluids must be replaced.
  • If you must go where the snowmobiles play, stay out of their way !

TECHNIQUES:

    Here's the way that I do it. Hey, it works for me !

  • UPHILL:
    My approach to an uphill depends upon the slope and the condition of the snow. If the snow is light and soft, I might go straight up, by kick stepping. That is, by pushing the toe of the shoe vertically into the snowpack, pressing down in order to pack down the snow enough to support my weight. I then shift my weight to that foot and then repeat the process with the other foot. I go as fast or as slow as is necessary. It depends entirely on the condition of the snow and how well it supports my weight. Another technique that I have used is called "the herringbone technique". Instead of pushing the shoe directly into the snow, I step sideways at about a 45% angle. This way, a little more of the shoe comes into contact with the snow--never mind that I look like a penguin going up the side of the mountain. Occasionally, when going straight up in firm snow, I'll use my ice axe to help with balance control and even to help pull myself up over a hump.
  • TRAVERSE:
    Basically, this is traveling vertically along a slope. I'll explain it here in terms of going uphill, but going vertical is basically the same technique, without the elevation gain.

    • If the snow is hard, I'll probably traverse & switchback, by edging my shoes much the same as you would with skis. As I walk along the hillside I edge my shoe into the side of the hill, being careful to always keep the shoe vertical. I move upward at a comfortable angle, and switch back and forth as I go. When traversing, I use one of two techniques. I use two adjustable, telescoping snow poles to help me maintain my balance. A short one for the uphill side and a long one for the downhill side. Each time I switchback, the poles change hands, accordingly. Another technique I use for traversing is to substitute my ice axe for the short pole. Carrying the ice axe on the uphill side allows me the added security of being able to self-arrest, if I should fall.

  • DOWNHILL:
    One technique is the same as explained in the Traverse section above, with one exception. Whereas, when moving uphill, I tend to put my weight forward, when traveling downhill, I tend to put my weight on the back part of the shoe with particular attention to the heel crampon getting traction. Another way I travel downhill is straight down. This works okay in soft snow where I can dig my heels in and achieve firm footing.
  • REVERSE:
    One method I use, if the snow is firm enough, is to plant my poles on either side of me far enough out to allow me to do this thing. I then jump, twist, plant. Really, it works. Another method is to take baby steps. Carefully move one shoe a little, then the other. Continue until both shoe are pointed in the new direction.
  • GET UP after a "fall-down":
    JUST DO IT !


WINTER GEAR

My intent here is not to duplicate Winter Gear Lists that have already been published in the "Gear, Gear" section at this website, but to highlight a subset that has high affinity to the sport of snowshoeing.

CLOTHES

Layering is the key for snowshoeing. Chances are, you'll encounter cold air and cold wind, so you'll need to be equiped to keep all parts of the body warm, at all times. Layering is important because snowshoeing is, most of the time, highly aerobic, and you'll generate lots of body heat. You will need to (1) take off and put on garments, as required, to keep a balanced body temperature. You will also need to have waterproof / windproof garments that are very breathable (like Gore Activent-based garments) and have venting options (like pit zips, pack pockets, and two way zippers).

BASE LAYER:
You will probably want a base layer of lightweight moisture-wicking thermal underwear like Patagonia Lightweight Capilene. Also, wear a pair of lightweight capilene glove liners to keep your hands from getting cold. Generally, if the weather is mild, those liners will insulate your hands, well enough, even when wet. If the weather is particularly cold, however, cover the liners with a pair of windproof, waterproof, Goretex Gloves. I use a pair of ultralight OR "Lobster Claw Rain Mitts" (weight 1 ounce) over a pair of lightweight liners. It does the job even in very cold weather, as long as I'm active. I also carry a thicker pair of fleece gloves, just in case I need them.

MIDDLE LAYER:
For a mid-layer I carry a Patagonia windproof, microloft Puffball Vest (insulates even when wet & body heat drys it out quickly)--and it weighs only 8 ounces. In addition, I carry a Marmot windstopper, microfleece jacket with pack pockets, pit zips, and a drawstring collar. If I'm going overnight, I'll also carry a set of Patagonia Midweight Capilene underwear.

OUTER LAYER:
For the outer layer, its important to have breathable wind and rain-proof jacket and pants. For snowshoeing, I generally don't take my gore-tex gear because it doesn't breathe very well. Instead, I take my Marmot "Gore-Activent" anorak and pants. They breathe well, are windproof and water resistent (not to mention, ultralight).

WHATEVER YOU DO...DO NOT WEAR COTTON ! WET COTTON DOES NOT INSULATE ! YOU WILL GET COLDDD !

SOCKS:
Assuming you have boots appropriate for snowshoeing, your regular hiking socks should be okay for snowshoeing. Take an extra pair.

GAITORS:
Knee-high gaitors keep the snow out of your boots (I recommend OR gore-tex Crocodiles)

HAT:
I carry two hats. A wool baseball cap which will insulate my bald head even when both (my head & the hat) are wet. I also carry a very lightweight, windproof, microfleece cap which covers my ears, also.

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BOOTS & SNOWSHOES

BOOTS:
First, let's talk boots. Waterproof hiking boots work fine--preferably leather. I've used my Dolomite Ortles G hiking boots for snowshoeing without problem. They are one-piece leather with a gore-tex liner. I find the gore-tex is very nice in the winter because it does keep the feet a little warmer, especially handy in the snow.

I've also used, with success, my Sorel Bighorns (warm to - 40 degrees, so they say). Plastic boots work but are a bit rigid. Basically, it doesn't matter, as long as your feet stay dry, warm, and comfortable.

SNOWSHOES:
Now the snowshoes. Snowshoes have been around for a long time--much longer than skis. The earlier versions that we have used were made of wood with rawhide-lace lattice-work inside the wooden frame. The bindings were typically made of leather. They were long, bulky, and heavy. They weren't made for recreational purposes, per se, but for traveling and/or hauling loads over snow.

Today's versions of the snowshoe are considerably different. They are smaller, lighter, stronger, and consequently, much more maneuverable than their older counterparts.

Instead of wood, most newer shoes are made of high-quality, light, durable, aircraft aluminum. Instead of rawhide lattice, the deckings are made of highly durable materials like Hypalon. Most good ones now cost in the range of $200 to $300, although you can usually get them on sale in the Spring, at most outdoor shops.

Snowshoe Terminology:

Bindings

Just as skis have bindings, so do snowshoes. They attach the snowshoe to your boot. The best ones are like the Redfeather snowshoes which have a toggle lacing system which is easy to get in and out of with gloves and/or cold hands.

Frames

Either wood or metal (usu. aircraft aluminum) this is the structural foundation of the "shoe" which defines its shape and size.

Deckings

The decking is the material within the frame which enables the "shoe" to "float" on the snow. It can be of either the lace or solid material variety. The bindings are attached to the decking. As previously stated, the most common material currently being used in snowshoes is Hypalon.

Flotation

Staying on top of the snow. A number of factors determine how well you "float" (see What Size ?--below).

Traction

Many snowshoes, nowadays, come equipped with both toe and heel crampon-type claws for better traction on icy surfaces (especially slopes) and hard snow.

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Different Types:

Recreational, Racing, and Mountaineering.

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What Size ?:

Sizing of snow shoes is relative to several factors. (1) your weight plus the weight of your pack (2) the type of snow you're traveling on and (3) what & where your recreation is.

Related Notes:
(1) The more you weigh, the bigger the shoe must be in order to keep you afloat.
(2) Light, dry snow requires a bigger shoe to keep you from sinking. Heavy, wet snow, a smaller shoe with excellent traction.
(3) If your recreation is in steep, mountainous terrain, you need smaller shoes with excellent traction.
If you are traveling, mainly, in flat open country, you'll, typically, need a larger shoe with a nice tail to provide good flotation and tracking. For running, racing, and casual walking, you'll probably need smaller, lighter shoes.

Typically, you can make some assumptions, based upon where you live and recreate. For example, I live in Washington State on the West side of the Cascades. We get lots of snow, but it is mostly of the wet variety and firms-up pretty fast. So that tells me what kind of snow I'll be in, most of the time. I weigh 175 + 25 pounds of gear = 200 pounds. I mainly do mountaineering. So based on (1) firm snow (2) 200 pounds and (3) mountaineering, I can establish that a pair of small (8"x25"), mountaineering shoes, will be adequate for me, most of the time.

If I was in soft snow, however, I would need, at least, medium-sized shoes (9"x30"). Most outdoor shops can help you figure out what you need. Also, manufacturers typically provide sizing charts in their marketing materials.

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Snowshoe Manufacturers:

Atlas Snow Shoe Company
Elfman Snow Shoes
Good Thunder Snow Shoes
Havlick's Snow Shoes
Mountain Safety Research Snow Shoes
Northern Light Snow Shoes..the "Lightest"..
Permagrin Adventure Company
Prater Snow Shoes
Redfeather Snow Shoes..not their home page, but that's okay..
Springbrook Mfg. "Little Bear" Snowshoes
Tubbs Snow Shoes
Tubbs Snow Shoes..not their home page, but you can buy them here..

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SNOW POLES & ICE AXE

SNOW POLES:
Critical pieces of gear to ensure safe, successful snowshoeing. The poles help you stay balanced while traveling forward as well as when doing tricky maneuvers. The poles also help propel you forward (kinda like 4-wheel drive).

Get poles that are telescoping 2 or 3-sections (preferably 3-section) for the following reasons: (1) 3-section telescoping poles (like the Leki Super Extreme) pack down to about 30 inches in length so that they fit nicely in or on your backpack. (2) They also adjust nicely to your stature--your arms should be at a 90 degree angle when holding properly-adjusted snow poles. (3) In addition, it is very important to be able to adjust your poles when you are traversing a hillside--the short pole on the uphill and the long pole on the downhill, to help you stay balanced. Another combination for traversing--which I frequently use if I will be traversing a long distance or a particularly risky section or switchbacking up a steep slope--is to hold my ice axe on the uphill side and the long snow pole on the downhill side. That way, if I slip, I can self arrest and avoid damaging the goods, so to speak.

When purchasing snow poles, it is important to get cross-country, oversized snow baskets (about 5 inches in diameter). Those dinky things you use for skiing get stuck in the snow too easily. If your poles don't come with the oversized baskets (my Leki Super Extreme did) then you can buy them separately at most, good outdoor shops and install them yourself.

ICE AXE:
Critical piece of gear, when in the mountains. It can save your bacon. In alpine country, carry an ice axe and know how to self arrest and self belay. These are critical mountaineering skills that are not hard to learn, but you do need to practice them, so that they become second nature to you.

There are a couple of very nice lightweight ice axes available. The Cassin Dragonfly is the lightest forged (aluminum) ice axe made, at about 10 ounces, and the Grivel Air Tech Racing is only a few ounces heavier (and it is made of chromoly steel alloy which would make it much stronger than the Dragonfly).

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OTHER STUFF

SNOW SHOVEL
In avalanche country, especially, make sure everyone has a small, lightweight snow shovel. If only one person has a shovel and that person gets buried, what are you going to dig them out with ? If you ever go alpine snowshoeing with me, please bring your snow shovel !

I have a very nice ultralight, Voile, mini shovel with telescoping handle. Very light and practical, but strong and functional.

ALTIMETER
Carry one of these. It measures altitude and used together with your map and compass can help pinpoint your location. I use mine, also, extensively, to check barometric pressure (to detect changes in the weather). You see, the altimeter altitude reading has an inverse relationship to the movement of barometric pressure. If you notice a sudden, dramatic, unrealistic altitude increase on your altimeter (over a two hour period, for example) it may indicate an equally dramatic lowering of barometric pressure (which could mean an impending storm). Anyway, its a good tool to have and know how to use to stay "unlost" and to have "sort of a clue" about impending weather conditions.

I carry an Avocet Vertech Altimeter. I don't do wrist-type devices so I carry it around my neck, using the optional Avocet lanyard configuration.

WANDS
Thin bamboo poles with a colored flag on one end. They are trail markers. When you're out in snowy conditions, especially overnight, these little poles, placed strategically along your route, can help you find your way back out.

The ones that I use are about 3/8 of an inch in diameter and 4 feet long, with a small red flag on one end.

Accessories for Winter Sports--A Signpost Article
Williams Outing Club: Winter Hiking Equipment List


CHECK THE WEATHER IN YOUR AREA:

The Weather-Information Superhighway... you should find it here !


SNOW & AVALANCHE

If you are going to be in mountainous backcountry, in the winter, beware. Understand avalanche tendancies. I'm no expert, but I know enough to check local avalanche conditions in my area before going out, by calling available hotlines and such. I also know better than to venture into questionable territory when avalanches pose a threat.

Snow & Avalanche Center


OUR HEALTH & WELFARE

Be pragmatic ! Carry the 14 essentials. Carry recommeded gear from the Gear Lists, appropriate for the conditions you might encounter. Be prepared for the unexpected.

Cold Weather Injuries Prevention & Care
How to Recognize & Deal With Hypothermia
Backcountry Medicine--Hypothermia, Know What to Look For


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