-Warnings-
Do not leave luggage in caches
We had a lot of clothes stolen when doing so, at 5000+. It can be the difference between life and death at these altitudes. We also had some fuel and and our headlamps stolen.
Be careful with people around you
The guide Vladimir Maidanyuk marked good campgrounds in the camps with green plastic bags, without using the places. When unused for several days, we pitched our tent in Camp 2 on such a spot. Three days later when Vladimir arrived he flinged our tent, with all our belongings in it, down a slope while we were on an acklimatization hike. Luckily when we arrived late that afternoon, the weather was clear and it was not blowing so our things were not lost, but the tent had damages. He refused to compensate us for our damages and he refused to excuse himself. He said "I have been a guide for 18 years, I know how to behave, it is my mountain".
Do not pay for the climbing permit
If you go with a travel agency, they often charge $100 for the climbing permit. This permit is no longer needed and should not be paid for (according to mail info from climbers).
Be careful at Travellers Pass
The small river flowing across the path behind Travellers Pass is dangerous. One team-leader fell in the water in Aug 2004, when trying to cross the river and fell in the water. He was taken by the current into an icecave and has not been seen since.
