-The Climb-
We used the technique "walk high, sleep low" for acclimatisation. We went up during the day on acclimatisation hikes, usually bringing luggage in watertight bags to leave at higher altitudes (caches). Be careful with this, see the section Warnings. Our acclimatisation plan was to stay at least three-four days in every camp except C3, if we felt well. Terrible weather made our stays longer than that. We had only one tent for two persons and brought everything with us up. We had also only one kitchen, MSR XGK-2 run on kerosene and petrol. We had sleeping bags for -20 to -30 Centigrades and clothes for the same temperatures. Personal climbing equipment included: two ice screws, one ascender, one harness, one rope (30m, diameter=8mm), one stitch brake, one 8, prussic ropes, crampons, slings, HMS plus normal carbines, one straight ice-axe 70 cm. We also had sun goggles, sun protection, compass, GPS, head lights. We brought freeze-dried food, soups and m�sli with us and bought chocolate, nuts, dried fruit, and raisins at the market in Osh. We prepared for three weeks.
General Information:
The climb is not really difficult but requires experience of altitude, glacier, snow, rescue, camping and you must be familiar with all the equipment. If you arrive during season, expect the mountain to be crowded. After the base camp, there are three higher camps. Camp 1 (C1) at 4300m, C2 at 5350m and C3 at 6150m. In C1 you might be able to pay a daily fee of around 3-5 US$, depending on where you pitch the tent. There are crevasses you must pass and short vertical sections. There are some slopes of 45 degrees without fixed ropes. There are usually fixed ropes on the steep or technical sections. Running water is found at the basecamp, usually at C1 and in good weather also at C2. For a fee, you can leave equipment in the basecamp
