This article is based on my lift of an 85-4x4 truck. The same procedure can be used for virtually any body on frame vehicle, but keep in mind it�s based on the lift of an 85 Toyota 4x4 pickup.
The materials are cheap and simple. You will need a piece of 2-� inch galvanized water pipe. Enough to give you a three-inch section for each body mount. This stuff is thick-walled and plenty strong. My truck was rolled with this lift installed, so I know it�s strong. You will also need to get new bolts that are at least 3 inches longer than the factory body-mount bolts. Grade 5 or better. Don�t forget nuts to go with. And get some red loctite while you�re at it.
Cut three-inch sections of pipe. A metal chop saw is great if you have one. Otherwise use what you have and make sure they are all cut square.
The first thing you will want to do is take stock of all the attached items. That is, check all the wires and cables that are run from the body to the frame. Is there enough play to accommodate a 3-inch lift? I had no problems in this area, but check this out just the same.
Next, unbolt the clutch line bracket from the transmission. Once lifted, the line will be stretched tight if you don�t. You can fabricate a bracket if you want or just leave it hang free.
The radiator is next on the agenda. Once lifted, the fan will likely hit the shroud. Also, the fan won�t be able to properly pull air through the entire radiator, due to the fact that the radiator has been moved up 3 inches with the body. Your best bet is to unbolt it now so that the hoses don�t get stretched.
Now go around and unbolt the cab�s body mounts. Remove the bolts, but save the rest of the hardware for later. If your truck has carpet, you�ll have to pull it back to access the bolts. They are located under plastic caps in the cab and out in front behind the bumper.
Next, get a floor jack and a log or something to act as a spacer between the cab and jack. Of course if you have a hoist, just use that and do both sides at once. Jack up one side of the cab carefully. Slip the pipe spacers in place and loosely install the new bolts, along with the other hardware. Let the jack down and repeat on the other side.
Check that everything is where it should be. Everything ok? If so, go ahead and tighten the bolts down. I recommend using red loctite on the treads. Reinstall the plastic caps and any carpet you may have removed. Put all the hardware (i.e. rubber mounts and such) back the way it came off.
Let�s get that radiator back in place, now. Get some strong steel strap with the holes pre cut, or fabricate your own drop straps. You�ll need 4 pieces long enough to drop the rad 3 inches. Then unbolt the radiator and bolt it to the straps with bolts and nuts. Position the rad so that the fan is centered where it should be. Now just bolt through the holes in the straps with the original rad mounting bolts in their original holes. The upper and lower hoses should be just fine for length.
Repeat the procedure for the bed.
Bumpers can be raised in the same basic way that the radiator was lowered. Just use some angle iron. I had no trouble with the steering shaft.
I love my lift. My tires no longer rub and the truck looks much better. The shift knobs are still quite accessible and I really can�t tell that the truck was not delivered from the factory this way. Overall, this is a no brainer. Why spend good money on a body lift kit when you can do this yourself and it�s just as good?