Tuesday, August 8, we left these beautiful protected waters and headed south to the islands of Cephalonia (Kefallonia) and Ithaca (Ithaki) through the channel between Levkas and Meganisi.  We anchored for the night in the bay of Sivota in southern Levkas before heading across Wednesday to Fiskhardho in northeastern Cephalonia.
The village of Fiskardho, with its pretty 18th century Venetian houses and lovely wooded surroundings, was the only place on Cephalonia and in much of the Ionian Islands to escape damage in the 1953 earthquake.  Now it was a �chichi� tourist resort, full of pretty people, and its narrow bay was extremely crowded with boat traffic.  We saw more mega-yachts here than elsewhere.  As the bay was deep all boats had to take a line ashore, and we were entertained for hours just watching everyone, especially the charter boats, vie for spaces in the mid to late afternoon, drop anchors, re-anchor, and sometimes drag.  It was better than watching a soap opera or movie.  Where we thought there was room for just one more boat, three or four would anchor.  While in Fiskardho, Mary�s dream of Greek dancing came true when we enjoyed a truly memorable evening at Nicholas Taverna.  Nicholas, the owner, could have passed for Zorba the Greek, and he and his waiters entertained everyone with their dancing after serving the food.  Even a visiting Greek family, from young adult to grandmother, joined in the dancing.
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