Basic set up of a fresh water aquarium
Things you must have to start:
aquarium and stand heater water conditioner
hood, lid, and light Thermometer Power Strip
filter and all accessories aquarium salt
Setting up your aquarium
Getting started:
Most people will tell you that choosing an aquarium is your first step. I say, back up! First you need
to decide what type of fish you will be purchasing. Once you have decided, ask the following
questions:
1. How big will they get? Is their grow linked to the size of the tank? There are
fish that will NOT stop growing even if in a small tank. An example is the South American
Pacu, which has been known to reach sizes of up to 24".
2. Are all the fish I've chosen in the same "aggression level"? There is nothing more
aggravating than buying a beautiful fish that you've longed for, only to have it eaten by
another.
3. Do they all require the same or close to the same water conditions?
Temperature, PH, and salt requirements are just a few of the things that could affect
fish health.
After you have collected all your information (most of which can be done online), you need to
choose the right aquarium. There are two types of aquariums: Acrylic and Glass. Acrylic tanks are
more expensive, scratch easily and require a stand that supports the entire bottom. Glass tanks are less
expensive, are resistant to scratches and require a stand that supports the bottom around the edges
only, which, again, is the less expensive stand. If you don't mind used equipment, auctions and
newspapers are excellent places to find aquariums and accessories generally at a large discount.
If you do buy used, take the time to fill the tank with a garden hose and check for leaks. One word
of caution: when buying a tank that is 50 gallons or larger, avoid tanks that do not have a center
reinforcement (a stainless steel bar or thick plate of glass, directly in the center, that attaches the top
edges). Newer aquariums will have this, older aquariums will vary by manufacturer.
Now that you have your aquarium, you must think about a stand. Several stores will sell
aquarium/stand combos or separate stands that are made specifically to hold aquariums. Considering
that a 'finished' aquarium will be very heavy, the stand should be level and sturdy. If you plan on
putting your tank on furniture, make sure it is built to hold a lot of weight and is not shaky. I have
seen tanks that were placed on dressers fall on young children.
Buying the hood, lid and light
Many aquarium kits will come with the hood and lid and, in few cases, the light. While convenient
and sometimes cost effective, it may not always be the best choice.
The lid, which comes in either plastic or glass, should sit snuggly inside the edge of the tank on
ridges made for the lid. Plastic is light weight and mostly unbreakable. Glass, though a little more
expensive, fits the top of the tank better, reducing evaporation, is easier to clean and allows more
natural light through.
The hood, which houses the light fixture, sits directly on top of the lid and should be as long as the
tank for optimum light exposure.
There are several types of lights in the pet shops. Some are for enhancing color, some are closer to
natural light, the list is endless. Basically there are two kinds of lights for starting out: incandescent
and fluorescent. Fluorescent are a little more expensive, however, they are cheaper to run and burn
cooler, not affecting the temperature of your tank. Especially for larger lights, I find that hardware
stores carry the same light at a better price.
Color and stone size of the gravel is personal preference. When you begin to get into specialty fish,
i.e. River Rays, is when you need to worry about gravel size. Basically, smaller tanks look nice with
smaller rock and bigger tanks can look very nice with regular aquarium gravel or river rock ( which
can be found at your local nursery or landscaping materials company at a very reasonable price) .
You will need 1pound of rock per gallon of water to ensure proper biological filtering. "Good"
algae, which decomposes some of the waste on the tank floor, lives in the gravel.
Decorations, again, are mostly personal preference, however, the closer an aquarium looks to nature,
the more comfort you fish will be (and the nicer it will look for you). Plants provide, shelter, shade,
spawning areas, and sometimes food. Live plants look nice, but your fish will eat them, causing you to
replace them often, and you must stay on top of the filtration-once a week as opposed to 2-3 times
a month. Rocks and driftwood will also provide shelter and shade. You can use real or synthetic of
either material (you can email me for tips on using real drift wood).
A background is optional, but it can really add to your theme.
There are a lot of filters on the market. Basic filter types include: box filters, sponge filters,
power filters, under gravel filters, canister filters, and wet/dry filters. With all these filters there
are three types of filtration to keep in mind when shopping for your filter-mechanical, chemical, and
biological. You will also need to think about buying an air pump if your filter does not produce
oxygen.
Mechanical filtration involves the removal of waste products by passing the water through a
filter, such as, a sponge filter or other porous material. The filter needs to be replaced every
month; you can go 2 months if you clean the filter each week. To Do this, simply run the filter
under hot water until all the particles are removed; do not use soap.
Chemical filtration is the passing of water through a material, such as carbon, which will remove
dissolved materials like ammonia, metals and odors. Your filtering material needs to be replaced
periodically.
Biological filtration will remove the waste that chemical and mechanical does not. This generally
involves vacuuming the rocks. A good bottom feeder will definitely help lessen the amount you need
to vacuum. I have a very large Plecostamus and rarely find that I need to vacuum my gravel.
All tanks need mechanical and biological filtration to maintain a healthy environment.
Box filters will provide biological and mechanical filtration but should not be used in tanks that are
ten gallons or more; they are designed for small desk top tanks.
Power filters are excellent for 10-40 gallon aquariums or as a supplemental filter in larger tanks.
Read the box carefully. Some power filters are only mechanical filters, however, others have a sponge
filter built in and will also take care of chemical filtration. Another added bonus is to buy one that
has an oxygen intake valve and you will not need to buy an air pump. You will need to purchase an
under gravel filtration kit. Basically it is 1 or 2 corrugated plates will small holes in them, that the
gravel will sit on top of and a long tube that attaches to the 'power head'.
Canister filters are used for very large tanks and will provide all three types of filtration if the right
material are used inside. Some will hang on the back of your tank, but most sit on the floor.
Wet/dry filters or biowheels are an over the back filter. These filters serve as a mechanical and
chemical filter and help out with biological filtration. They also host beneficial bacteria colonies that
neutralize toxic ammonia and produce more oxygen through water movement. You need to check
the wheels for proper movement and change the internal filter periodically. Do not wash the wheel,
these wheels host your "good bacteria".
When choosing a filter, make sure you check the flow rate. For optimum conditions, water needs to
be filtered 3-4 times an hour. This means that a 20 gallon tank needs a filter that can filter 80
gallons of water an hour.
If you do not buy a power filter, you will need to get oxygen into your tank another way. This is a
simple as buying an air pump, 6-10' of tubing and an air stone or bubble wand and either suction
cups or aquarium safe weights to hold them down. Fish need constant oxygen and water movement
does not always produce enough, especially in larger tanks.
A heater is usually not included in an aquarium kit, but is almost always needed. There are two types
of heaters, submersible or top mount. When shopping for a heater, also consider a heater guard.
A guard is a plastic casing that the heater slips into easily and will take the blow if your
fish become rowdy and hit it (trust me, if they're large and/or aggressive, they will become rowdy).
Top mount heaters hang on the back of the aquarium, are less expensive, and are easily to access.
However, if the water becomes too low or if the heater falls into the tank your heater is ruined.
Submersible heaters, although slightly more expensive, can be attached by suction cups any where
under the water line and come with a temperature scale for greater ease in setting the correct
temperature.
Check the package of the heater to make sure you get enough wattage to heat the size of tank you
have; each manufacture has their own specifications.
Miscellaneous but Necessary items to buy:
Thermometer - NEVER trust your heater to just stay at the temp. required for your fish. Changes in
temperature can kill your fish. Thermometers come in several shapes and sizes. Chose what looks
best to you.
Net - It is unadvisable to touch a fish with your hands. This removes their scales and leaves them
susceptible to diseases. If you find it necessary to touch a fish, make sure you wet your hand
thoroughly first, this will lessen the damage. It would be best to buy a net before you buy your fish.
Again, keep in mind the maximum size your fish will reach and by a net for that size. Otherwise, you
will have countless nets and no fish to use them with.
Aquarium Salt - Do not confuse this with sea salt for salt water aquariums, they are different
products. There are fresh water fish, brackish fish (that need a little more salt), and salt water fish
(need a lot of sea salt). However, every fish likes salt in their water. Fresh water fish like 1 tablespoon
of salt per 5 gallons of water. The salt will help them to develop a healthy and protective 'slime' on
their scales and their excrements will be longer (trust me, this is the sign of a healthy fish).
Water Conditioner - This additive will help to remove chlorine and neutralize chloramines found in
tap water. It will also aid in the production of that healthy 'slime' on the fishes scales and fins.
It is advisable to add a water condition, such as Stress Coat, when ever you add water, do a water
change (discussed in setup and management) or add fish to your aquarium.
Power Strip - Investing in a good power strip with a fuse built in will save you from having to unplug
everything in a power outage. Every piece of electrical equipment connected to your aquarium has
the potential to be ruined by a power surge.
You went out, bought everything, except the fish, and now it is time to set up your aquarium. It is a
good idea to rinse your tank out with your garden hose. You don't need to fill it, just make sure
you rinse of the dust.
Considering that a finished aquarium is very heavy, you'll want to decide where you want it to go
before you begin setting it up. An aquarium should not be placed in front of a window or glass door
as the direct sunlight will encourage the growth of algae and increase the temperature in your tank
making it difficult to regulate. Also make sure you have a power source near by.
You ALWAYS need to wash the gravel or stone before you add it to your tank. NEVER USE DISH
SOAP. Dish soap could leave a residue on your gravel. Hot water will do just fine. If needed, you
can add a tablespoon of bleach to your water. You must then rinse until you can no longer smell the
bleach. It is easiest to wash your gravel in a kitchen strainer, however, make sure you place a dish
cloth over the drain so stray stones are caught.
Once you've washed it, the gravel is ready to put in to your tank. If you bought an under gravel kit,
rinse the plates off in hot water and lay them into the bottom of your tank. Make sure to cover any
large tube holes that will not be used. Insert the tubes in to the holes you are using. Carefully scoop
your gravel in to your tank. DO NOT dump the entire load it at once, you run the risk of cracking
your plates and/or tank. Spread out your gravel making little hills and dips here and there to give it a
natural look. Hint: if you slope your gravel with less in the front than back, you will get a more
three-dimensional look.
Once you have your gravel in, get a rinsed dinner plate and lay it in the center of your tank. Using a
rinsed bucket, pot, or whatever is handy, begin filling your tank with regular tap water, make sure you
let your water run for 20 seconds first so any mineral build up will be dispelled. If you have
exceptional water, you may use your garden hose to fill your tank, again, let the water run first.
Simply pour the water gently on to your plate and your gravel will not be disturbed.
When your tank is 1/3 full, pause the water and begin putting in your decorations. Again, make
sure you have rinsed them off first. Make sure you have plenty of hiding spaces and interesting nooks
and crannies for exploration. This is also the time to put in any air stones or bubble wands and
tubing.
If you have a submersible heater, set it up now, but do not plug it in. It is much easier without too
much water! When your decorations are set, finish filling your tank.
When you are finished with the water, set up your filter and heater. Make sure that if you are using
carbon as a filtration material, you rinse it off first. Carbon will produce a dust when jostled around
in the package and that dust will go into your water the first time your filter is used. If you are using a
wet/dry or canister filter you will need to prime it before you plug it in. Priming is simply adding water
into your filter.
Your aquarium need to be set up and running for a minimum of 24 hours to remove harmful
chemicals. You will then need at least one week to establish a healthy bacteria colony that fish need.
Your heater will usually warm up your water within 48 hours.
When you bring home your fish, they have to be acclimated to tank conditions before putting them
in. To do this, float the bag of fish in your tank for 10 minutes. Then open the bag and add about
1 cup of tank water and allow it to float for another 10 minutes. When this is done, take your net
and scoop out the fish and transfer it to it's new home. NEVER ADD THE STORE WATER TO YOUR
TANK. I cannot stress that fact enough. You will battle diseases and end up losing a lot of fish if you
add foreign water to your tank. As soon as you add the fish, put stress coat in your water, this will
be beneficial to your fish and reduce stress.
Hint - if your have fish in your tank and are adding a new one, feed your current fish at the same
time you are adding the new one. This will distract your current fish and give the new fish time to
hide and adjust without getting picked on. Again, make sure you add stress coat.