The following pages are to be used as a guide only! The techniques included here
will assist you in providing some help to your animal until you can see the vet and
are not to be used in place of a professional's care.
WITH ANY
INJURY, TAKE YOUR PET TO A VETERINARIAN AS SOON AS POSSIBLE!!
Muzzling an injured animal Treatment
Rescue Breathing Swallowed objects
Chest compressions Transportation
Things to include in you home first aid kit:
2"x 2" 12 Ply Gauze Sponges 5 Triple Antibiotic Ointment Packets
2" & 3" Roll Gauze Flexible Splints or magazines
1 Roll Vetrap 1 Instant Cold Compress
2 Latex Examination Gloves 1 Saline Solution
(3) 2"x 3" Non-Adherent Bandage Pads Veterinary Thermometer
6 Antiseptic Swabs 1 Ace Bandage Wrap
Medical Scissors Cotton Balls
Syrup of Ipecac Home Emergency Rescue Sticker
Towel or Blanket
Muzzling an injured animal is an excellent idea. If the best of house pets will bite when their bodies
are racked with pain. Do not get upset with the animal, it is the only way for them to get their point
across!
Commercial muzzles are best, but if you don't have one, a belt or piece of rope will work. If using a
belt, put the belt through the buckle leaving a large loop. Slip the loop over the dogs nose and tighten
only until their mouth cannot open wide enough to bite. Be careful not to cut off air supply and try to
leave enough room to allow the animal to pant. Wrap the end of the belt around the head and slip the
end through the loop and back through the section secured behind head. See diagram.
If using rope, cross the ends making a loop. Again, slip loop over the nose and tighten only until their
mouth cannot open wide enough to bite. Be careful not to cut off air supply and try to leave enough
room to allow the animal to pant. Wrap around nose and cross ends under the animal's chin, around
back of head and tie securely. See diagram.
BLEEDING
If bleeding is severe or continuous, the animal may lose enough blood to cause
shock; loss of as little
as 2 teaspoons per pound of body weight may cause shock. Emergencies may arise that require the
owner to control the bleeding, even if it is just during transport of the animal to the veterinary facility.
TECHNIQUES TO
STOP EXTERNAL BLEEDING
The following techniques are listed in order of preference.
PRESSURE ON THE SUPPLYING ARTERY
PRESSURE ABOVE AND BELOW THE BLEEDING WOUND
DIRECT
PRESSURE:
Gently press a compress (a pad of clean cloth or gauze) over the bleeding
area; consistent, steady
pressure is best. The compress helps control the bleeding by absorbing the blood and allowing it
to clot. If blood soaks through, do not remove the pad; simply add additional layers of cloth
and continue the direct pressure more evenly. Prematurely removing the gauze will disturb blood
clots after they have formed. The compress can be bound in place using bandage material
which frees the hands of the first aid provider for other emergency actions. ''Vetrap' adheres to
its self, making it a fast and easy choice; do not use without gauze. In the absence of a compress,
a bare hand or finger can be used.
ELEVATION:
Elevation uses the force of gravity to help reduce blood pressure in the injured
area and slowing the
bleeding. Elevation is most effective in larger animals with longer limbs where greater distances
from wound to heart are possible. If there is severe bleeding on the foot or leg, gently elevate the
leg so that the wound is above the level of the heart. Direct pressure with compresses should also be
maintained to maximize the use of elevation.
PRESSURE ON THE
SUPPLYING ARTERY:
If external bleeding continues following the use of direct pressure and
elevation, finger or thumb
pressure over the main artery to the wound may be needed. To do this, apply pressure to: the
femoral artery in the groin area for severe bleeding of a rear leg; the brachial artery in the
"arm pit" area of the front leg for bleeding of a front leg; or to the caudal artery at the base of
the tail and on the underside if the wound is on the tail. The goal is to slow the flow of blood to
the wound, not stop it completely. Also
continue application of direct pressure on the wound it self.
PRESSURE ABOVE
AND BELOW THE BLEEDING WOUND:
This can also be used in conjunction with direct pressure.
Pressure above the wound will help
control arterial bleeding. Pressure below the wound will help control bleeding from veins.
Again, the goal is to slow the flow of blood to the
wound, not stop it completely.
TOURNIQUET:
Use of a tourniquet is dangerous and it should be used only for a severe,
life-threatening hemorrhaging in a limb (leg or tail) not expected to be saved.
A piece of cloth, 2 or more inches
wide, is wrapped around the limb twice, just above the wound,
and tied into a knot. A short stick or other solid object is then tied into the wrap. Twist the stick
slowly to tighten the tourniquet until the bleeding stops. Secure the stick in place with another piece
of cloth. Make a written note of the time the tourniquet was applied; your veterinarian will need this
information. Loosen the tourniquet for 15 to 20 seconds every 20 minutes until your vet can
remove it.
Remember this is dangerous and
in almost every case, results in disabled or amputated
limb. Use of a tourniquet should only be utilized as a last resort and life-saving
measure!
INTERNAL
BLEEDING:
Internal bleeding is a life-threatening condition, but it is not obvious like
external bleeding. There
are, however, external signs of internal bleeding: the pet is pale (check the gums or eyelids), the pet is
cool on the legs, ears, or tail, the pet is extremely agitated or unusually subdued. If any of these signs
are evident, the pet should be immediately transported to a veterinary facility for professional help.
Do not attempt to treat your pet. Remember: internal bleeding is not visible on the outside.
BANDAGING
We use bandages for several reasons: protection for the wounds from the environment, protection
for
the environment from the wounds (like humans, animals can carry diseases communicable through
body fluids), to discourage the pet from licking or irritating a wound or to immobilize the wounded
area. Proper application is essential.
CLEANING THE WOUND
The process of bandaging begins with careful cleaning of the wound. All dried blood, dirt, and
debris should be washed away using copious amounts of water. Do not use soaps that are not
specifically designed for wound irrigation. This could cause extreme irritation and/or
infection. Hair should be clipped away so that it does not lie in the wound. If your animal allows,
gently pat the area dry.
INITIAL LAYER
After cleaning the wound, the initial
layer applied. Since this layer will have direct contact to the
wound, it should be a sterile, non-stick but absorbent and flexible pad. Most pharmacies will have
a variety of products that will meet these requirements. After cleaning the wound, place the sterile
pad gently over the wound. It is desirable to apply an antibiotic ointment, such as Neosporin, to the
pad, not
the wound; this is not absolutely necessary.
Frequent bandage changes are important.
THE ABSORBENT
LAYER
After the initial layer is in place, apply
an absorbent layer that will help hold it snugly, but not tightly,
over the wound. This layer is usually a cotton material roll which comes in various widths. A few
pharmacies will sell products that meet both layer requirements in one pad. It is important to use
the proper size. Generally, 1-inch rolls are used for small limbs and the tail, 2-inch rolls are for
medium-sized legs, and the 3- and 4-inch rolls are for large legs and the body. Materials that are
too narrow often require tight wrapping which could cause a tourniquet effect, especially if the
wound swells. If materials are too wide, they are difficult to apply smoothly. Any wrinkles or
ridges may cause your pet discomfort. Begin with just enough absorbent layer to hold your initial
layer in place. If the wound is on a leg or the tail, wrap from the top up. If you begin at the top
of the leg or the tail, the bandage is more likely to restrict blood flow and cause swelling, which
may cause tissue damage. Apply several layers of absorbent material, this will help soak up any
excess fluid from
the wound and increase the animal's comfort by cushioning the wound.
THE OUTER LAYER
Finally, the outer layer, which is usually made up of porous adhesive or elastic tape (i.e.
Elastikon,
Vetrap). This layer should be smooth and snug; remember to wrap from the toes towards the body.
Do not pull elastic tapes to their limits, as this will interfere with circulation. The tape should be in
contact with the skin (hair) at the bandage margins, anchoring the bandage so it will not slip. If using
Vetrap, it will adhere to it self and slip less.
BANDAGE CHANGES
Bandages should be changed frequently, at least
twice a day for the first 3-4 days and once a day
after. During this time you should look for any signs of swelling, discoloration or coolness of the
skin, odor, or saturation of the bandage material. Wounds that are draining heavily may require
bandage changes every 1 or 2 hours.
CPR
- Rescue Breathing
All resuscitated animals should be transported to a veterinary facility for further
examination and care!
MAKE CERTAIN THE ANIMAL IS ACTUALLY ARRESTED AND UNCONSCIOUS: Talk to the animal first.
Gently touch and attempt to awaken the pet. You or your animal could be seriously injured should
you attempt to
perform
CPR on a pet who was only sleeping heavily and was startled awake.
ENSURE AN OPEN
AIRWAY:
Extend the head and neck and pull the tongue forward.
This may be all the animal needs, wait 10
seconds and observe the animal for possible breathing. To spot signs, put your ear close to the
animal's mouth listening closely for sounds of breathing with head turn to watch for the rise and
fall of the chest. If no breathing is evident in 10 seconds, begin rescue breathing. Before you
begin to give the animal air, look in the mouth and remove any saliva or vomit. If it is too dark to
see into the mouth, sweep your finger deep into the mouth to remove any foreign body. Be aware
of a hard, smooth, bone-like structure deep in the throat. This is likely to be the Adam's
apple. Serious injury could result if you pull on the Adam's apple.
BEGIN RESCUE
BREATHING:
Rescue breathing is performed
by covering the animal's nose with your mouth and forcefully blowing
your breath into their lungs. With cats and small dogs, you must hold the corners of the mouth tightly
closed while you perform rescue breathing. With larger dogs, the tongue should be pulled forward
and the mouth and lips held shut using both hands cupped around the muzzle. Slowly force the air
into the lungs just until you see the chest expand. Allow the lungs to deflate on their own.
Give 3-5 breaths, count to 3 and repeat. After two cycles, stop to recheck for breathing and heart
function.
If the pet is still not breathing, continue rescue breathing 20-25 times per minute in cats or small dogs,
or 12-20 times per minute in medium or large dogs.
When performing rescue breathing, watch the stomach for swelling that does not go down after air
flows out of the lungs. If the stomach is allowed to distend with air, it will add pressure to the lungs
not allowing them to fill up and reducing the amount of oxygen passed into the blood stream. If you
notice swelling, you are giving too much air in each breathe, do not stop rescue breathing, but DO give
smaller amount of air with each breath. If you can not get the animal to breathe on its own,
continue CPR while transporting to the nearest veterinarian.
AFTER GIVING 3 TO 5 BREATHS, CHECK FOR A PULSE. If no pulse is detectable, begin chest
compressions.
IN SMALL DOGS OR
CATS:
Gently squeeze the chest using one or both hands around the
chest, depressing the rib cage evenly.
Do this 100-150 times per minute.
IN LARGE DOGS:
If the dog is on its side, place the hands on the side of the chest wall where
it is widest. If the dog
is on its back, place the hands on the sternum (breastbone). Depress the rib cage or sternum 1.5 to 4
inches, depending on the dog's size, 80-120 times per minute.
If the animal needs rescue breathing and chest compressions, give two breaths after every 12
compressions.
When two rescuers are
working together rescue breathing should be given during every
fifth heart
compression.
Continue CPR Until:
You become exhausted and can't continue.
You get the animal transported to a veterinary facility and professionals can
take over.
The pulse is palpable or heartbeats are felt and they are strong and regular.
SHOCK
EARLY STAGES OF SHOCK:
Bright red gums
Very rapid capillary refill time
The pet may be either excited or subdued
Rapid heart rate, pulse will not be difficult to find
MIDDLE STAGES OF SHOCK:
Gums appear pale or "muddy"
Abnormally long capillary refill time
The heart rate is frequently above normal, the pulse weakens and may be difficult to locate
The pet will most likely be subdued, depressed and weak
Respiration often shallow and rapid, but could be normal
Rectal temperature often below normal, but it is possible to be normal or even
elevated
LATE STAGES OF SHOCK:
Gums extremely pale or show a bluish discoloration, and are often
"blotchy" in appearance
Heart rate likely elevated and irregular, may be normal or below normal as heart muscle begins
to fail
The pulse will be very weak and difficult or impossible to locate
Respiration may be slow or rapid, shallow or deep
The eyes may take on a glazed appearance and appear not to focus normally
Mental condition deteriorates from depression to stupor to coma
Rectal temperature will be below normal
WHAT TO DO
Successful treatment of a patient in shock involves prompt recognition of the
signs and safe, rapid
transport to a veterinary facility for treatment.
A jacket or blanket should be used to keep an animal in shock warm while preparing for
and during transport to a veterinary facility.
WHAT NOT TO DO
Well-meaning pet owners often use first aid procedures which may seem helpful,
but, in fact, may
prove
dangerous to the animal.
Do not allow the injured pet to move about on his own.
Walking about or any unnecessary movement,
especially allowing the pet to jump
in or out of the
transport vehicle, may increase internal bleeding. Unnecessary use of muscles "burns fuel," which
can
be
fatal to a
patient in shock.
Do not apply a heating pad to a sick or injured patient.
The animal may suffer a severe burn. In addition, application of heat will cause the
vessels of the
skin to dilate. These dilated vessels require more blood to fill them and decrease the efficiency of
the
already
failing cardiovascular system, resulting in worsening
of the shock condition.
Do not pour water (or anything else) into the animal's mouth.
Animals in shock are weak and may inhale anything given by mouth into the lungs,
causing a serious
complication.
Do not administer ANY medications.
Unless instructed to do so by a
veterinarian.
Do not assume the pet is NOT in shock after an accident.
Early stages of shock are difficult to recognize, and the pet may
deteriorate rapidly if not treated.
Injuries and illnesses that cause shock may cause irreparable damage in minutes. Any hesitation could
mean the
difference between a pet making a full recovery
and a pet which cannot be saved.
CHOKING
Choking is interference with breathing caused by foreign material in, or
compression on, the trachea
(windpipe).
IF THE PET IS
UNCONSCIOUS:
PERFORM A FINGER SWEEP:
Open your pet's mouth and perform a finger sweep by placing your finger along
the inside of the
mouth, sliding it down toward the center of the throat over the base of the tongue and gently
"sweeping" toward the center to remove any foreign material. There is a structure deep in the throat,
the "Adam's Apple",
which feels like a smooth bone. Do
not attempt to pull it out!
BEGIN RESCUE
BREATHING: See CPR
If air is not entering the lungs, slap the pet's chest wall firmly or perform
the Heimlich maneuver by
putting the pet on its back, placing your hands over the abdomen near the bottom of its rib cage, and
gently, but firmly thrusting toward the spine. Perform a finger sweep and begin rescue breathing.
Repeat until the foreign body is clear and the lungs can be inflated.
Transport to the veterinarian.
IF THE PET IS
CONSCIOUS:
Stay calm and try to keep the pet calm. If the pet is overheated, wrap him in a
cool, not cold, wet
towel, and transport
them to the veterinarian.
Frequently, pet owners confuse coughing with choking. Both cause the pet to
forcefully exhale.
With choking, the pet has difficulty
inhaling; when coughing, the pet can inhale almost normally.
Be careful to distinguish the two: attempting to give first
aid to a pet who is merely coughing can injure the animal.
If it appears that your pet has an extra joint, the limb is likely broken or fractured. If possible,
fractures of the bones below the elbow or the knee (stifle) should be splinted at the accident site.
This must be done carefully in order to avoid injury to both the pet and the first aid provider.
Fractures are usually painful injuries, so it is best to muzzle (see section on muzzling) or cover the
pet with a thick blanket or towel. If there is a wound on the fractured limb, bandage it first -
see bandaging. Do not attempt to replace a bone if it protrudes.
FORELEG
If the foreleg is broken, a newspaper or magazine makes a great splint. Roll the paper or magazine
loosely and collapse it, forming a gutter shape. Place the leg in the gutter and tape firmly with any
good tape (adhesive, duct, even Scotch). Other materials which may be used for splinting are wood,
sticks, tree branches, cardboard, or light strips of metal. Be certain to tape above and below the
fracture site. All splints should extend at least one joint above and one joint below the fracture site.
REAR LIMB
The bones below the level of the knee may be splinted by merely taping
the broken leg to the other
leg (mountaineering splint). Another splint that can be quickly and easily applied involves using wire
hangers. Collapse a few of the hangers together and twist them together to form a flexible metal
"bar." Bend the bar into a shape which resembles the normal angle of the rear leg and tape this to
the leg. Sticks of wood, thick layers of cardboard, etc. can also be used. As with splints on forelimbs,
splints on rear limbs should extend at least one joint above and one joint below the fracture site. If
the rear limb has been fractured above the stifle (knee), it is not easy to splint effectively. It is best to
get these patients immobilized and
transported.
SPINAL INJURY AND
USING A BACKBOARD
If the pet seems paralyzed or unable to get up, a spinal injury is suspect and
the pet must be firmly
immobilized to prevent further damage to the nerves. Get a firm, flat support, i. e. an ironing board,
a piece of plywood, a collapsed cardboard box, a table leaf. Grasp the skin over the back of the
neck and over the small of the back and gently slide the pet on to the support. Try to keep the back
and neck straight. Tie or tape the pet to the support.
POSITION THE
HEAD
If the pet is unconscious, position the head in normal alignment with the
body. It should not flex
abnormally downward nor extend excessively upward. Improper flexing or extending can cause
decreased blood drainage from the brain and cause serious damage. If the pet has vomited or
appears likely to vomit, put the head down slightly below the level of the heart. This will allow the
vomit to run out of the mouth and not down into the windpipe and the lungs.
Be aware that pets with severe head injuries are likely to
vomit, even while they are unconscious.
POISONING
If you suspect that your pet has consumed a substance that is
poisonous, look for evidence , i.e., an open
container, a pool of
antifreeze, etc..
Call your veterinarian or a poison control center and be
prepared to answer the following questions:
What product caused the poisoning and how much was ingested?
When did the poisoning occur?
What symptoms is your pet exhibiting?
Can you retrieve a container or label from the poisonous substance to determine
the active ingredient?
Follow the instructions of the veterinarian or the poison control center.
If you cannot get in touch with a veterinarian or a poison
control center, then induce vomiting with the
following exceptions:
DO NOT induce vomiting if:
the animal is unconscious, semi-conscious, or convulsing,;
there is evidence that the poison was: a strong acid, an alkali (such as bleach), a petroleum product,
a cleaning product;
the substance was ingested more than 3 hours ago.
If your pet ingested one of these substances, or the poison
was ingested more than three hours ago, it is imperative that you somehow get
him to a veterinary facility for treatment.
To induce vomiting:
Give full strength (3%) hydrogen peroxide by mouth at a dosage of 1 tablespoon per 15-20 pounds of
body weight, or Syrup of ipecac (follow label directions).
SWALLOWED
GLASS OR SMALL SHARP OBJECTS
KEEP cotton balls and frozen Half-and-Half coffee cream on hand
at all times--make sure they are
not
the "cosmetic puffs" that are made from man-made
fibers .
Should your pet eat glass ornaments, staples or other small sharp items, defrost
the half-and-half &
pour some in a bowl. You can substitute liverwurst or another moist, smooth food or drink that your
pet
likes. Dip the cotton balls in the cream and feed them to
your animal.
DOGS OR CATS UNDER 10 POUNDS:
will likely need 2 balls which you have first torn into
2 smaller pieces.
DOGS 10-50 POUNDS:
will need 3-5 balls and larger dogs 5-7 balls. You may feed larger
dogs an entire
cotton ball at once.
Dogs seem to really like these strange "treats" & eat them readily. As the cotton works its way through the
digestive tract it will find the glass pieces & wrap itself around them. Even the teeniest shards of glass
should be caught & wrapped in the cotton fibers & the cotton will protect the intestines from damage by
the
glass.
CHECK STOOLS FOR
SEVERAL DAYS FOR BLEEDING
Your dog's stools will be different for a few days and you will have to be
careful to check for fresh
blood or a tar appearance to the stool in the event that the cotton balls did not pick up all the glass pieces.
If either symptoms appear you should rush your dog to the vet for a checkup. In most cases, the dogs will
be just fine.
TRANSPORT
The first aid provider must not only identify and treat injury or illness, but
must also
safely transport the patient to the veterinary facility for treatment. Improper
technique when transporting a patient can result in further injury or
complications.
HANDLE THE PET
AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE
Try to make the pet comfortable by encouraging him to lie down and stay. Smaller dogs and cats
can most effectively be transported in commercially available carriers or in a cardboard box with a
lid.
HANDLE THE PET
GENTLY
Rough handling may cause further internal bleeding, more damage to the soft
tissues around a
fracture, and many other complications.
LIE THE PET ON
ITS SIDE
This position will encourage the pet to relax. However, if the pet seems to resent this or has more
difficulty breathing on its side, it may indicate the pet has an injury to the chest or lungs. In this
case, it is better to
leave the pet in a comfortable position.
MINIMIZE
MOVEMENT BY THE PET
It is best in many cases to
actually tie or tape the pet to a flat surface. This is imperative when
handling the unconscious patient or the patient with a
suspected back injury.
DO NOT PUT PRESSURE ON THE STOMACH
This is most important for the pet who is having difficulty breathing, has been
vomiting, or has pain
in the abdomen.
Don't
forget to add good old fashion TLC to all first aid!
Please remember this
is advice only. IF EVER IN DOUBT CALL YOUR VET!!!