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I want to provide some basic information here on cat care. If you are new
to cat ownership, or are considering adding a cat to your family, you should
find this information quite useful. If you have had your cat for
awhile, or have had cats in the past, then you are probably already familiar
with most of this information, but I hope that you will still learn something
new and useful.
And now for the legal part to avoid being sued. Please understand
that I am not a vet or an animal care specialist. I am merely telling
you what I’ve found to be useful with my own cats. If you have any
questions at all, please talk to your vet or animal care specialist!
And, although I may mention some brand names, I am not advertising for
them (i.e., they aren’t paying me or compensating me in any way for mentioning
them), nor am I implying any kind of guarantee should you use the same
products and have unsatisfactory results. There. That should
cover me! Now on to the fun stuff!
This is very basic. Water, of course, should be changed daily (twice
in hot weather), and the water bowl itself should be cleaned periodically.
Most experts say it should be cleaned daily, but I only clean mine about
once a week or so. Just be sure that your cats have plenty of water at
all times, especially during warm weather.
Food is another matter, and is often a point of contention among cat owners.
Start talking about how and what you feed your cat, and the fur begins
to fly. Some owners feel that dry food is best, others opt for wet
food. Some think that commercial cat food is wrong altogether and
feed their cats "people food," while others consider it wrong to ever feed
a cat people food. Some only feed their cats at certain times of
the day, others allow the cat to "self-feed" throughout the day.
So many choices, and everyone thinks that his way is best!
After studying the different arguments, and all of the pros and cons, I
came to these conclusions. First of all, commercial cat food is,
in most cases, essential because it provides all of the nutrients and vitamins
that your cat needs. There are some books that contain recipes for
homemade cat food. If you have the time, money, and desire to do
so, then feel free to make your own. But be sure to follow the recipes
exactly. They usually include some kind of kitty vitamin supplement
and certain combinations of foods to assure that your cat gets complete
nutrition. However, if, like most people today, myself included,
the idea of making cat food is anything but appealing, then just use the
commercial stuff. Whether you buy Iams® or Cat Chow® depends
on your budget. My cats prefer the more expensive stuff, of course,
but they usually just get Meow Mix®. They’ll even eat the store
brand version if I’m broke and they get hungry enough! It is best
to remain consistent, however. Frequently switching back and forth
between brands will only disturb your cat and his digestive system.
Secondly, there is nothing wrong with giving your cat a bit of "people
food" from time to time as a treat, but don't use table scraps as your
cat's main food source, even for one meal. Your cat will not get
the proper nutrition. And feeding him too many table scraps will
spoil him, and he'll refuse to eat his regular food. But a bit of
fish now and then, or a dish of milk from time to time will be fine.
Just one warning: Chicken bones can be deadly to your cat!
Do not, under any circumstance, feed your cat chicken with bones in it,
and be sure to dispose of any chicken bones from your own meal in a way
that the cat can't get into them! Chicken bones splinter easily and
can lodge in the cat's throat, causing her to choke to death. So
please be careful with them.
 Now,
onto the wet or dry debate. Some will tell you that an all-dry diet
is essential to your cat's urinary tract health. Others will say that it
doesn't matter, and since cats prefer canned food, you should feed them
what they want. Actually, there is truth to both views. Here is the
method I've come up with: I  feed
my two cats half a can of food in the morning, and half a can at night,
using only one can a day. I leave a dish of dry food available to
them at all times. This way, their desire for the tastier canned
food is met, yet they still are hungry enough to eat enough of the dry
stuff to keep their digestive tract healthy.
And finally, the "how" question. Some people only feed their cats
once or twice a day, removing the uneaten portion after a certain amount
of time. Others leave a dish of food available for the cats to nibble
on throughout the day. I originally began using the latter method
because I didn't want my kitties to be hungry. But now I have another
reason to allow my cats to "self-feed." Most of the people I know
have at least one cat, and most of them just leave a dish of food out for
their cats to nibble at will. But two friends use the "twice a day"
method--and both of these people complain of having obese cats! Yet
I have not heard anyone who self-feeds complain of overweight cats.
Although it doesn't seem to make sense at first, I do believe that there
is a correlation. You see, in the wild, a cat will gorge itself whenever
it has access to food because it doesn’t know when it will get its next
meal. If your cat thinks that she's not going to get enough food,
she will gulp down as much as she can, especially if she knows that any
uneaten food will be removed. (Have you ever watched a hungry stray
cat inhale a dish of food that you set out for her?) Thus the cat
eats more than she actually needs, leading to eventual weight problems.
So, the best solution? Dry food all the time, a small amount of canned
food once or twice a day, and an occasional people food treat if you wish.
Ah, the unpleasant part of cat ownership! There really isn't much
to say except that you do need to scoop it out at least once a day, and
change the litter when it starts to smell. The kind of litter you
choose depends on how many cats you have and how much work you want to
do. I used the scoopable kind when I just had one cat, but once I
got the second one, I had to scoop the box three or
four times a day, so I switched to the plain old clay cat litter.
I have also found that the fancy "multiple cat" and deodorant litters don't
work that well. The best brand I've found is called Cat's Pride®.
It's about half the cost of the name brands, and it stays fresh twice as
long! Adding baking soda is also a good way to cut down on odors,
and it is not toxic to your cat like some chemical deodorizers. So, finding
a brand that you (and the cats) like is a process of trial and error.
I suggest starting with the cheapest stuff and working your way up, if
necessary.
Now, for the box itself. I've found that commercial cat litter boxes
were too shallow for my cats. Or rather, for Alexander. He
thought that as long as at least two feet were in the litter, he was good
to go. Being a cat, he had no concept that his butt was hanging over
the edge of the box! So, he would miss the box completely, then proceed
to dig out a large quantity of cat litter to cover the mess. Yuck!
I finally started using a large Rubbermaid® under-bed storage bin.
It's deep enough to keep him, well, under control, since it is impossible
for him have his rear hanging over the edge. Using a liner can often make
clean-up easier. If your cats are like mine, though, and end up pulling
it into the catbox and burying the edges,  then
pouring the litter straight into the box is fine. But you will need
to scrub it well with bleach during each changing to be sure that dangerous
germs don't build up. Be sure to wash the scoop, too. I always
fill the box with bleach water, then scrub it and the scoop with a toilet
brush. Remember to rinse well to remove the bleach smell, or the
cats might not use it!
Then there are the pricey self-cleaning models. One of my friends
has one, and he said that it would be okay if you only have one cat, but
his three cats were too much for it. He said that it didn't scoop itself
as often as it should have because of the time-delay feature. The
box waits for about 10 minutes after the cat leaves to scoop. Of
course, during that time, another cat would come in, then the box would
reset itself for another 10 minutes. Then another cat would come
along, and… Well, you get the picture. I myself tried one of those
three-level sifting boxes, but I found that residue stuck to the layer
that was removed, so I was cleaning the box daily! Also, the layers
didn't fit together too well, so there was often leakage to the floor.
Yuck! My sister had one of these, too, and she had the same problems.
There are a wide variety of boxes available, and again, you just need to
find one that fits your needs. Just remember to keep it clean or
your cat will find somewhere else to go. And that is not a good thing.
Of course, you can skip the litterbox altogether and toilet
train your cat!
A final note: there has been much hype lately about toxoplasmosis,
a parasite that can be picked up from an improperly cleaned litterbox.
This parasite can infect just about any cat, without any visible symptoms,
and is then passed on in the cat’s feces. Pregant women, younger
children, and those with weakened immune systems are especially vulnerable.
Although infection is fairly uncommon, short-term (only about two weeks)
and has mild symptoms in most people, it can cause birth defects if a pregnant
woman becomes affected. Since the parasite takes almost 24 hours
to become infectious after being dispelled in the host's feces, simply
scooping your litterbox once or twice a day will greatly reduce, if not
eliminate, your risk. And if you're pregnant, please have someone
else scoop the box. It's a simple thing that you can do to help protect
your unborn child. For more info on toxoplasmosis, please click here.
Your cat needs just a few basic accessories. First of all, she will
need a place to sleep. This can simply be a blanket in a corner somewhere.
Usually the cat will chose the spot herself. All you need to do is
add a towel or a blanket. (My kitty likes to sleep in her cat carrier!)
And don't forget to wash it periodically. Of course there are a variety
of commercial beds available. Feel free to purchase one of these
if you choose, but if you don’t have the money, don’t feel bad. As
long as your kitty knows that her sleeping area is her own, and that she
will not be disturbed there, she will sleep just as comfortably on a blanket.
Of course, your cat will not sleep just there, but almost anywhere else
that you will let her. You also need to decide when she is a kitten
if she will be allowed to sleep with you. If not, teach her from
the very first night that she is not allowed in your bed. Otherwise,
it will be difficult to keep her off when she gets older. You may
also want to consider closing her out of your bedroom. She will yowl
initially, but just endure it for a night or two and remind yourself that
it will pay off in the end!
You will need a brush for your cat, and I also recommend a flea comb.
Hopefully you won't need it, but it's nice to have one just in case.
You should brush your cat once a day to help cut down on hairballs, and
a long-haired cat will need his coat brushed to avoid mats.
A few toys are also a good idea. These need not be expensive.
My cats love to  play
with the little plastic rings that come off of milk cartons! But
providing your cat with a few sources of amusement will keep him from  finding other things to play with, such as your favourite knick knacks and
other small, loose items that are easily batted about. And catnip?
That's a good source of amusement for you!
A place to scratch is a necessity. Cats scratch not only to sharpen
their claws but also as a form of exercise. If cats have a good place
to scratch, they will leave your sofa alone. Cats prefer rough textures
for scratching, such as a sisal rope scratch post, carpeting, cardboard,
or even a plain old log. I have two bok choy crates that I salvaged
from a Chinese restaurant to use as makeshift end tables. They make
perfect scratching posts, and the cats leave my other furniture alone.
And I also have two of those corrugated cardboard scratchers that lies flat
on the floor. The kitties love them!
I also recommend that you purchase a cat-care manual. Be sure that
it includes first aid and emergency information. There are lots of
these on the market, so choose one that fits your needs. And your
budget! If money is a problem, borrow a book from the library and
copy out the emergency pages.
You may want to purchase a harness and a lead for your cat. You may
not. Some cats are quite happy trotting about on a leash, but most
will not cooperate. A harness is good, however, for trips to the
vet. It gives you something to hold on to without strangling your
cat. I’ve found that the H-harness is virtually escape-proof.
(It’s shaped like the letter H, with one "leg" of the H fastening around
the neck, and the other "leg" fastening under the forelegs.)
And finally, a collar with an i.d. tag is necessary, even if your cat is
a strictly indoor pet. He may still get out. One day a friend
of mine accidentally closed her kitty up in the kitchen window (it's a
long story...), pinning her between the glass and the screen. The
screen finally gave way, and the poor little kitty was stuck outside while
her people were at work. So you see, an id tag is necessary even
on indoor kitties.
Be very careful when selecting a collar. Make sure that you buy one
that is specially designed with a break-away safety feature. These
collars contain a small band of elastic that will release the cat if the
collar is snagged on something such as a tree limb. Without the band,
the cat could strangle itself. Since dogs generally don't jump and
climb, their collars don't need this safety feature, so be sure to buy
the right collar for your pet. And if your cat wears a flea collar,
be sure to leave it loose enough for his head to slip out if he gets caught
on something. Although your cat may lose his collar, at least he
will be alive.
A collar also identifies your cat as someone's pet. Without a collar,
she may be mistaken for a stray and taken to the pound, or even taken in--permanently--by
a well-meaning person. The i.d. tag should contain your name, your
pet's name, at least one but preferably two phone numbers, and your street
address. If your cat does go outside, I highly recommend a bright,
even florescent color to make her more visible to traffic. And those
little bells? Well, it's a nice idea, but wouldn't you go nuts if
you had to listen to a bell ring every time you moved?
You can also have your cat tatooed and registered with a national databank.
If he is found, he can be quickly identified and returned to you.
This is much more expensive than a collar, but you don't have to worry
about your cat losing his tatoo! If you are interested in learning
more about this option, visit Tatoo-A-Pet.
 In
a word, do. There is no reason to allow your cat to reproduce.
Each year, millions of unwanted kittens are destroyed in shelters.
Only a fraction of kittens in shelters will be adopted. Not neutering
or spaying your pet is giving a death sentence to a countless numbers of
kittens. A single cat and her offspring can produce hundreds of kittens
over just a few years.
And if you do have an unwanted litter, do not give them away free.
This may sound like a good idea, but often animal abusers and research
labs take advantage of free kittens as a cheap source of animals for their
sick and twisted activities. If you do have an unwanted litter, or
take in a pregnant stray, have the kittens immunized and sell them.
You may also check with a local pet store. Some are willing to give your
kittens away with the purchase of a "kitten kit." Both I and one
of my former roommates adopted cats this way. Just remember, someone
who is willing to pay $15-20 for a kitten will be taking it home for the
right reasons.
Still not convinced? Consider this. An unfixed female can do
untold damage to your property by "spreading her scent" about in an effort
to attract males. Before I had Kelsey fixed, she ruined a futon,
a pricey camera, several important papers, and hundreds of dollars worth
of clothing. And the caterwalling is unbearable! An unfixed
male can become quite aggressive, and will try to escape your home in order
to look for females.
Please fix your pets, for your sake, and for theirs.
In a word, don’t. Are you worried about that pricey sofa? Then
give your cat a couple of places to scratch. He’ll pass up that silk
brocade sofa for a catnip-infused cardboard scratching pad any day.
Unless your cat has aggressive behavioural problems which aren’t solved
by spaying or neutering, don’t declaw it.
The common misconception about declawing is that it is merely removing
the cat’s tonails. But declawing actually removes the cat’s toe to the
first knuckle. He is amputated and left defenseless for life.
If, after learning this, you still plan to have your cat declawed, then
do it a favor. Give it up for adoption and get a dog.
It is essential for your cat to be vaccinated yearly. A new kitten
will need a series of shots and tests, including tests for worms.
Discuss the schedule with your vet. Grown cats will need booster
shots every year or so. This is important even if your cat doesn’t
go outside or have contact with other cats. Some deadly diseases,
such as feline leukemia and FIV (the feline version of HIV) can be prevented
with early immunization. Rabies shots are especially important if
your cat goes outside, and if she hunts small animals. These can
carry rabies and infect your cat if she eats them. Please talk to
your vet about the full range of shots needed for your pet.
And how do you find a vet? I suggest asking other cat owners for
recommendations. Cost is also an issue. While looking for a
vet to spay Kelsey, I found prices ranging from $50 to $300+. Ironically,
the $50 vet came with an excellent recommendation!
Ah, this is perhaps the biggest debate among cat-owners. Do you allow
your cat to roam outside, or do you keep her safe and sound inside?
There are excellent arguments for both sides. It all boils down to
this. A cat who lives inside and does not go outside will live longer,
be safer, and have fewer health problems.
That said, I will now say that I have allowed my cats to go outside in the past.
I lived in a tiny two-room apartment and wanted them to have more space.
But I always left the back door open for them so they could run inside if they
were threatened. I now live in a two-bedroom townhouse, so they stay
inside. When I move into my new house in April, they'll get to go outside
again. The new place is safe enough for them to wander about.
Just remember,
iIf you allow your cats to go outside, be sure that they have access to
safe shelter and water.
Some cats travel well, others don’t. It is usually better to leave
them behind. If you will only be gone for a couple of days, leaving
a large plate of food and plenty of water will be fine. For longer
trips, it’s best to find someone to check in on them once a day or so.
If you can’t find someone to watch them, find a place to board them.
Some vets offer a boarding service, or can suggest a place that does.
If you board your pet (or take him along with you), be sure to include
a familiar blanket or a favourite toy to help him feel more comfortable.
If you do decide to take your cat along, be sure to check with the hotel
(or wherever you’ll be staying) ahead of time to be sure that your cat
will be accepted. It is essential that you keep your cat inside at
all times, even if she is used to going outside at home. In unfamiliar
territory, she can become easily confused and be lost or injured.
And one final note. Whether you’re traveling across the country or
just to the vet, NEVER leave your cat (or any other pet or your child,
for that matter) locked inside a car in warm weather. Even on a moderately
warm day (70º, for example), the interior of your car can warm up
very quickly and cause your pet great distress, long-term health problems,
and even death. Cracking the window, although it sounds like a good
idea, actually does very little to cool down the interior of the car.
If you must eat while your pet is in the car, please just go through a
drive-through and eat in your car. You can have a nice meal later.
Or leave a family member in the car if you are not traveling alone.
The same goes for restroom breaks. If you are traveling with a companion,
go in shifts. If you are traveling alone, go as quickly as possible
and return to your car immediately.
If you have young children, be sure to teach them how to handle your cat.
The earlier they learn, the better it will be for all involved. There
is no excuse for children being allowed to torment, tease, or roughly handle
the family pet. Teaching them how to properly treat an animal early
will not only teach them to respect living creatures and the rights of
others, but they’ll also have the joy of being able to pet and cuddle the
cat, rather than having her run and hide in fear whenever the child comes
close.
If other children visit your home, it is essential that you insist that
they treat your pets with the same respect that you expect from your own
children. You would not allow visiting children to jump on the sofa
or knock knick knacks about; be sure that they respect your pets as well.
A cat can be a warm and loving companion. Treat her well, and she’ll
return the favor! Keep her safe and well cared for, and she’ll be
with you for a very long time!
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