September 2000
It wasn't until the 13th of September that we left Haarlem. The
trip from Ijmond is a short distance. This we did on August 28th.
You pass under several bridges, most of which have to open. As
you get into Haarlem, the river progressively narrows but there is room for
two large barges heading in opposite directions, which occurs quite frequently.
We were moored in town center. There's hardly a better spot in
the world, as least in urban settings. A gorgeous white tower is just
two blocks away, along with the cathedral and the whole of the pedestrian
town. Along the canal Haarlem displays many fine examples of
Dutch architecture from the 16th-18th centuries. A few meters
from our boat an elegantly arched white bridge spans the River Spaarn.
I think it's the oldest bridge in Haarlem. There are lights on
the walkway illuminating the path, changing colors from red to white to green
as you walk.
The Spaarm in downtown Haarlem
We take the bikes over the white bridge frequently to get into the main part
of down town. On the way we can pass through Haarlem's attractive small
red light district. Cees says that most of prostitutes work from home rather
than displaying themselves on stools in windows. They run ads
in papers, often stating their specialty. "Whatever you want,"
he says. I think he said something to the effect that the ladies screen
out their callers and only take you back if they like and trust you, unless,
I suppose, they are too desperate to care about risks.
A whore house in downtown Haarlem
Shops are copious. Haarlem is reputed to have the best shopping
in the Netherlands. Bars and restaurants are too numerous to
count. There are street markets galore. On Saturday the
town's main square is filled with vendors. You get a marvelous
view of the square from the top floor of the modern art museum, housed next
to the old meat market hall. This golden era building is decorated
with various animals expertly carved in stone. The structure is in
very good condition.
Near the V&D (an upscale department store) there is a smaller street
market. On the same square is a wonderful cheese shop, many items
costing only f. 10 per kilo. A few more blocks and there is the Aldi,
the world's least expensive grocery store, and which sells some of our favorite
items at top quality.
Cees and Ada live just a five-minute walk away from our boat.
We walk past the Jewish restaurant, gaze at the 14th century Amsterdam gate,
cross a small canal on a sharply arching bridge, walk through a neighborhood
of modern two-story apartments, and we are at their house. They've
lived on the spot for something like 20 years, renting never owning.
They had to move while their house and all the ones in the neighborhood were
razed and the current residences built. Ada's mother, in her
80's, lives two minutes away in another modern, attractive purpose built
old folks home. Ada does her shopping and cleaning, and often
brings her things to eat.
Staying on the River Spaarm costs under $20 per week (that's not a typo,
it was 39 guilders per week for a 10 meter boat) including water and electricity.
While we were here I installed a shower in our 'head' (bathroom), including
a pump to remove the water from the shower pan. You have to install
shower curtains each time you use the shower, although it is not absolutely
necessary if you are willing to wipe down the paneled walls each time.
The hot water is copious, and I installed a shut off valve on the shower
wand to reduce water and gas consumption. The quarters are tight,
but even I was reasonably comfortable though I stand almost 6 feet.
Haarlem has several movie theatres and a music hall, where Ada works.
The music hall is just off the pedestrian area in a golden era structure.
Inside, however, it has been unattractively modernized. People
like Elton John come here, as well as less well-known acts.
The train station is a ten-minute bike ride from the boat over several small
canals. From here, you can get anywhere, including Schipol, the
airport. Amsterdam is less than 20 minutes to the east.
Everywhere you go the streets are filled with bikes. People carrying
children, lumber, large packages, often talking on the phone at the same
time. I've seen more than one person removing their jacket without
stopping, all quite casually.
Peg's father arrived for a month long visit on the 7th, and was as ready
as he was going to be on the 13th, when we headed south towards Delft, Rotterdam
and into the relatively open waters of the Osterschelde. I kept no
journal for this period.