Stromboli
Quiet, empty Rome
Stautary at the Villa Borghese
The eclipse in Rome
La Madonna del Divino Amore
Bracciano
Countryside inside Rome
Ladispoli
Casina delle Civette
Montecitorio
Everyman, the morality play
Music under the stars
Rome returns
New discoveries at the Forum
Back to Rome
8/03/99
Modica Bassa has two small museums in the same building. One
contains archeological finds dating to about 2000 B.C.E. The
older objects include many stone flints and hammer heads. The
other museum contains objects from about 100 years ago: stone
carving tools, blacksmith equipment, ceramics, shoes, clothing, and religious
objects. The sewing implements were of the sort that my grandmother
probably used. She was a seamstress in Palermo. I
pictured her sitting before the foot operated Singer, heating the irons in
the fire to press the dresses. Her son and both of her daughters
followed this career. An employee took us around and we understood
nearly everything she said. Afterwards we took the bus to Catania airport
for the flight on Alitalia (L99,000, only about $60 for the one hour flight).
Finding where the bus stop took two visits to the travel agency, as I did
not understand anything she said the first time.
From the jet we got a great view of the coast of Sicily as the path took
us over Messina on Sicily and Villa San Giovane on the mainland.
We saw the islands just off the coast of Sicily. The view of the dead volcano
Stromboli, whose cone was completely blown off, was absolutely magnificent.
The remains of the volcano occupy the entire island. The other islands
are dead volcanoes also, except maybe two of them farther west.
We also flew over the Isle of Capri near Naples and then got another great
view, this of the historical center of Rome and the Vatican.
In the latter, the Coliseum stood out, its large bowl unmistakable from above.
8/4-6/99
Rome is on vacation. The traffic is light, the streets quieter.
Many shops are closed. They post their vacation times on their doors.
Most places use the official form. Each form has a letter 'A,' 'B,'
or both. 'A' means that they will be gone August 1-15, 'B' means August
16-31. These forms are issued by the city government.
Many shops and restaurants must apply to the city before leaving for vacation;
another line to stand in for shop owners, I bet.
We took long walks in the mornings. The afternoons are too warm, registering
30-32 (86-89 F), and very humid at around 85%, but overall more comfortable
than the past ten summers. On the sixth we walked to see
a section of the Roman aqueduct. The roof of the channel for
the water, on top of the aqueduct, is still intact in many places.
Along the wall people have built single family residences. Many
have gardens. There are sections of Roman walls, some reaching thirty
feet in height, in these gardens. To me it seems quite a privilege
to have an ancient wall in one's back yard. Maybe it's old hat
to these folks.
That evening we went to see Everyman, a morality play in English but we arrived
just as they were finishing. "Near the coliseum," said the big, beautiful
poster, but the play was staged 1/4 mile away. It took us forty five
minutes to find it. The lack of clear or accurate directions is a frequent
problem here even on posters that have been elaborately and not at all cheaply
designed.
8/8/99
Peg writes:
We took the bus up to the Alban Hills yesterday to visit another
of the 13 quaint, medieval towns on the south side of Rome. This
one features a Baroque Square, a beautiful viaduct built in 1854 that is
200 feet high and almost half a mile long, an immense palace built by the
Chigi family [Pope Alexander VII, Bernini's patron and the pope who finished
St. Peter's, was a Chigi] and the famous roast suckling pig.
For lunch, we had a roast suckling pig sandwich, with olives.
Gary again:
And the views of the coast and coastal plain were beautiful.
They would be more beautiful if the coast was not always shrouded in mist,
even in this bright sun. It is generally cooler and breezier here than
in Rome.
In the evening we attended a concert at San Ignacio, this time a chorus from
Tampa. They sang complex pieces, too muddy for this enormous place.
8/9-11/99
Stautary at the Villa Borghese
Cardinal Scipione Borghese built this magnificent palace, now a museum, around
1600. It was designed by the Dutchman Jan van Santen. During
the Napoleonic era (1801-09), the French enriched the Louvre with more than
200 statues from the Villa. The striking opulence of the building and
the collection shows how great it could be in the church hierarchy in Scipione's
time.
The Villa contains magnificent ancient sculpture, originals and copies, reliefs,
third century floor mosaics and paintings from the middle ages through
about the 18th century. Most of the best pieces are on the top
(main) floor.
Painters on display include Raphael (including the Deposition), Bernini,
Lorenzo di Credi, Fra Bartolomeo, Durer, Domenichino's Diana the Huntress,
Carravaggio's Madonna Dei Palafrenieri. This last painting was commissioned
for the Vatican but the figures were too realistic for that holy place.
Caravaggio also shows us David Showing Goliath's Head, St. John the Baptist
and St. Jerome. Titian's Sacred and Profane Love hangs here.
Bernini shows David slinging the stone at Goliath, a reminder to me of how
long the Jews have been fighting to survive; perhaps Hitler was Goliath's
revenge. Also in the collection are The Rape of Prosperina, Aeneas
Carrying Anchises, and Truth. The last sculpture he did before
he died, a Jesus, is uncanny, so alive, so expressive, it just about made
a believer out of me. The Queen of Sweden wanted to buy it, but
she could not afford it, and turned it down. Bernini willed it to her
upon his death.
Everywhere you turn in thei building Beauty invades your being, saturating
you with its mighty but subtle rays.
8/12/99
The eclipse in Rome is on the order of 95%. The sunlight is noticeable
reduced but the effect is not as dramatic, of course, as you would find in
the path of total coverage. We watched television coverage (televisione
or tee voo, as 't.v.' is pronounced in Italian) with Speranza and her friend
Elizabeth, also from Colombia. Elizabeth is on her lunch break.
The Italian stations have sent cameras to English and Germany, and provide
an excellent view of the sun's eclipse which we watch on Speranza's 'tee
voo'. In the persistent lingering of mythopeic thinking, Muslims
pray, because Mohammed did so during eclipses. This was a good run
up for those millions who believe that the year 2000 has an apocalyptic significance.
Jews, Muslims and others have entirely different years, of course, but this
does not factor in the accounting for those enamored of the Christian calendar.
8/13/99
La Madonna del Divino Amore
To get to the sanctuary La Madonna del Divino Amore (Or Lady of Divine Love)
is a local bus ride but you feel like you are far away from Rome.
The countryside is peaceful. The sanctuary is perched on top of a hill
with simple, but pretty views of the surroundings. The small complex
makes a delightful retreat center for the faithful. In one of
the halls there is an exhibition of images of Mary. There must
be 200 of them from all over Italy and the world. Black Marys,
oriental Mary's, Mary in many poses, most of them the meek woman averting
her eyes, submitting to God's will.
8/14/99
Bracciano is a medieval town although it dates back much farther.
About forty miles north of Rome, it boasts an incredible castle owned privately
by the Odescalschi family. All tours are guided. The castle was
built between 1100-1500 or so. The oldest part is still standing.
In the 1400's the additions by the Orsini family transformed it into a comfortable
palace. Now it has five towers. One of the towers is from the
12th century castle, which still stands but incorporated into the later additions.
The fine views of Lake Bracciano and the surrounds alone make the visit worthwhile
. The Odescalschi family bought the property in 1695, and still
pays taxes on it. Two members of the family live on one of the lower
levels. The castle is in marvelous condition. Kenneth Branagh's
Othello was filmed there. The guide spoke in Italian, but later
answered our questions in good English.
After the tour we walked down to the lake, about a mile and a half, on a
steep dirt path. We passed villas and gardens stuffed with tomatoes,
figs and other fruits and vegetables. To get to the lake, we
entered the grounds of a summer club. The club has a small beach,
a cafe and a boat yard. The boats include small sailing vessels,
canoes and other small craft. The vacationers lie on the beach, splash
in the cool waters, chat with summer friends, and purchase meals and drinks
which they consume on the terrace a few meters above the lake. Sailboats
and wind surfers here and there spot the lake.
8/15/99
The two mile walk through the Cafarelle Parks is a walk in the countryside.
However, we are in Rome, less than a mile from our apartment, entering the
park off a side street extending from the ancient Via Latina.
This area contains uncultivated and cultivated fields, family gardens, tall
reeds, and trash burned by the few families who live here. Some
live in beautiful villas surrounded by high walls, and the road there is
paved. These are nearer the main road, Appia Antica. The houses
farther in are more modest. Some of the residents in the interior part
have chickens. We passed a man herding goats.
It's less surprising to find yourself in the middle of an entirely rural
area when you realize that Rome is surrounded by farms that supply the city
with fresh fruits, vegetables, and grain, corn at least, since we have seen
it growing in the nearby fields. This is the only city of this size
that I know of that makes you feel like you are eating fresh off the farm.
Suburban areas are mainly limited to the Alban hills to the south and similar
small villages to the north. On the west, coastal villages, largely
vacant except in the summer months. To the east many small towns
dot the landscape, and on the east coast you face the sea. From this
coast you can get to Greece on ferries.
8/18/99
Ladispoli is a coastal town on the Tyrrenian Sea. In this area
the Etruscans built their empire, formed their pottery and fine jewelry,
imported Greek pottery, built temples to the gods and provided the Romans
with guides to the keeping the gods happy. The town is
a narrow strip. The beach is black sand. It is lined with bodies
soaking up the sun. Small boats are sitting on the sand, waiting for
their owners to launch them onto the waters. There are not many takers
today, as the surf is rough.
8/19/99
The Casina delle Civette is in the Liberty style. 'Liberty' here
means 'art nouveau.' The house-as-museum is most famous for its
stained glass made 1908-1930, added 60 years after the house was built.
There are innumerable windows and doors with these Rene Mackintosh-like decorative
glass (see the Scotland journal, July 1997 for more on Mackintosh).
Decorative owls appear throughout the building. The house has many roof peaks
and arches.
8/24/99
An exhibition of Bernini's works fills many rooms of the Palazio di Venizia.
There are sculptures, paintings, furniture, designs and models for many of
Rome's most famous and fabulous public places. The building spree
represented here was done under Pope Sixtus V.
A prolific and multi-talented man, Bernini began his career as a child under
his father's guidance. His father Pietro (1562-1629) was also famous
in his time, and worked in Rome for the Church.
I wish I could say more something more impressive about Bernini's work.
It's way beyond me to do so.
8/25/99
The morning was turned over to another Michelin Guide walk, this one labelled
"Montecitorio." This takes us near the Pantheon, the Piazza Navona
and again to the Fiume Tevere (Tiber River). This section once
housed enormous tombs and the funeral pyres of the Roman Imperial families.
There were theaters, amphitheaters, and sports facilities. Pope
Sixtus IV (1471-84) renewed the district to impress pilgrims on the way to
the Vatican.
The Piazza di Montecitorio has an Egyptian obelisk from the 6th century BCE.
Augustus had it brought to Rome around the time of Christ, while Pius VI
is responsible for its current resurrection (1792). It
once served as the pointer for a gigantic solar clock.
The Palazzo di Montecitorio (1650-97) is yet another Bernini project. It
is home to the Chamber of Deputies of the national government, which convened
here starting in 1870. Some windows have roughly hewn ledges,
giving a cave-like appearance to the opening. The building is
slightly convex, making it look bigger than it is, though it's big enough.
Since everyone is on vacation, the plaza is empty, the guards relaxed looking,
and the nearby cafes either closed or nearly empty. A major newspaper
is housed nearby, allowing convenient coverage of daily events.
The Piazza Colonna, near the Palazzo di Montecitorio, would normally be crowded.
It is being renovated and the workers are busy today. The Piazza
sports a carved column conveying, like the Trajan column, the exploits of
an Emperor, in this case, Marcus Aurellius (161-80). He warred
on the Danube, and died there of the plague. You can see the
scenes better than on Trajan's column, as they are bigger and in higher relief.
Sixtus V replaced the statue of the emperor with Paul in 1589.
The Torre della Scimmia (Monkey Tower) was named as a result of the exploits
of a devious monkey. Said monkey took the family's young baby to the
roof. The father prayed to Mary, and then called the monkey to
him. I imagine Mary said, "Hey! You over there. Try
calling the monkey, you idiot." Ok, maybe not the idiot part, but you
must admit, it is an idiotic story, but such were the times and the beliefs
of men, to which we are all still subject. The monkey came down
with the baby intact. A lamp still burns on the roof commemorating
the event, and an image of the Virgin who looks out for all babies carried
to rooftops by monkeys.
Full of gold and marble, and stuffed with paintings, Sant'Antonio dei Portoghesi
(St. Anthony of the Portuguese) is yet another of an astounding number of
stunning churches of museum-like quality. The facade is Rococo,
the complex baroque decorative style. Down the road and round
the bend a bit is the Bear Inn. Buildings in this area were mostly
inns from about 1400-1600. Bear Inn is still open for business,
just a few yards from the walls of the Tevere (Tiber), whose sluggish waters
pass far below.
Sant'Agosto, the famous Saint Augustine who dwelled in North African, has
a church dedicated to him in this area. It was built in late 1400's.
It has a rose window, not common in Rome, though they are everywhere in France.
The interior was redone in 1760 and additions made in the 19th century.
The "Madonna del Parto," sculpted by Sansovino in 1521, graces the entrance,
despite being surrounded by burning candles. A fresco by Raphael
is also here, this one of the Prophet Isaiah. A Caravaggio,
the Madonna of the Pilgrims (1605), is marvelously executed, although Mary
does not have the usual humble look. She is looking at a worshiper
on his knees, and seems to be saying, "Ok, enough of that. Just call
the monkey down. Geez."
Santa Maria Maddalena, the 12,000th church I would have seen here in Rome,
was on this walk, but we did not get to it.
8/27/99
Everyman, the morality play
"Everyman" is a medieval morality play. He is visited by the Grim Reaper,
then sets about getting his life in order. Fellowship, Strength, Knowledge,
Riches and everything else abandon him and he is left only with Good Deeds
to stand with him as he meets his fate. This thirty minute play
is performed predominantly in medieval English with the Roman Forum as a
backdrop. The actors are local native English speakers, except the
Iranian. Peg talks to Everyman afterwards and gets the name of
the woman who heads the production of local English language theater.
Another of the actors is Australian and participated in a three year theater
cruise of the Mediterranean. The troupe outfitted a rust encrusted
boat to carry them to many ports, where they performed mime and other language
free acts.
8/28/99
Guitars and mandolins skillfully perform in the piazza in front of the Basilica
Santa Maria di Trastevere, dating from the year 217. The campanile
strikes every 15 minutes as it has since the 12th century. The
crowd murmurs as crowds have since crowds began to form. All
this passes below the holy family mosaics, whose figures gaze down as they
have for the past 1000 years, like one would from a height overlooking a
river. To the holy family, We are like tiny boats passing never to
be seen again onto the vast seas. But no matter. More boats
shall come along, and they too shall be the object of the mosaics' passing
scrutiny.
The streets of Rome are busier as the Romans begin returning from vacation.
More cars. The buses are filling as not only tourists ply the bi-ways.
Parking is no longer easily obtained. More shops and restaurants
are opening. Pietro's Trattoria and Pizzeria, near our apartment,
opened when they said they would, but were not ready for business until the
next day. Romans are not quite ready to be back.
We saw two accidents today, one involving a motorino (scooter) which probably
had been crazily careening between cars and buses. The
motorino was on the ground, its plastic windshield fractured, the driver
already on his way to the hospital, the police collecting witness reports.
On the major highways leading to Rome, the carnage will peak as speeding
drivers ignore the substandard signs that the highway department places to
control the bedlam. Everyone here seems to envisage himself or
herself, especially the himselves, as A race car driver; authorities say
that excessive speed is the major cause of accidents. They not only
travel well above the speed limits, they tailgate and weave like Mario Andretti.
Workers are making notable progress on the streets, buildings and monuments.
Scaffolding is coming down at a frenzied pace. Streets are paved
with macadam or laid with black stones day and night. Rome will be
gleaming as it has not for many years. The fifth largest economy in
the world is cranking away.
New discoveries at the Forum
At the imperial forums, archeologists continue to unearth new finds. These
most recent discoveries were last exposed 1200 years ago but lost to history.
This summer they found: 1) a courtyard they never expected; 2)a
paleo-Christian church; 3) the base of the famous equestrian statue of Trajan,
but the statue has not been found. Also they found: 4) an entire
medieval quarter; 5) an oblong hall with three vestibules, not yet understood.
Trajan's Forum was intact until the 8th century. Removal of its
materials began to be were removed for use elsewhere. From the
9th through the 11th century a new quarter was built. Within
it are traces of the vanished church, San Urbano.
In the works is a plan to restrict traffic on Via dei Fori Imperiali, built
under Mussolini, running right through the forums and past the Coliseo.
It will be narrowed, and much of it will be a pedestrian zone.
They will allow only public transport on the boulevard. The forums
will be linked by an underground passage, which in the 17th century served
as a drain for water. This is due for completion in early autumn,
whose coming time we can feel in the now sometimes chilly, breezy mornings.
There are new, large boards briefly explaining the sites to visitors.
The translations are excellent, much better and more detailed than those
there previously.
8/31/99
Another visit to Caferelli Park
Around 8 a.m. we entered Caferelli Park from Appia Antica, near the Porta
Latina. This port and the connecting walls will later become a favorite
spot for me to draw.
We came across a house in a valley set against a hill. It looks
quite old. An old woman was burning trash in the front yard.
Peg, in her best Italian, asked her how old the house was. The
woman said it was older than Rome. Another woman, whom Peg said
was apparently a gypsy, said '500.' They often leave off the
1000's so this meant that the house was built in the 1500's. That's
seems entirely possible. It looks run down and it seems that these
people are living as if they were in the 1500's.