Opening Ceremony
The opening ceremony will be a grand one, where we will invite our university chancellor YABhg. Dato’ Seri Dr. Siti Hasmah Hj. Mohd Ali to witness the opening ceremony by the main sponsors together with our President of Multimedia University Prof. Dr. Ghauth Jasmon. All the participants will be invited to witness the opening ceremony as well. The ceremony will unveil the Peace Wall to the Malaysian community. The wall will be a tangible landmark signifying hope that a world without wars is possible.

Project Design
The project seeks to work with the earth (through the use of natural building materials), with the international community (through their participation in its physical construction) and with art (peace activism through artistic expression) in an inclusive design process that incorporates people in Multimedia University. Special emphasis on outreach with natural builders (those who are able to facilitate the construction), architects and artists is vital. Because the design should be an inclusive and democratic process, no decisions will be made about the structure of the design until a display, debate and vote can take place prior to the start of the CCIP Program on 27th Feb – 7th March 2003. By June we will begin constructing and will end by July.

Concepts
We envision the structure to be 8” x 8” ceramic tiles individually hand painted on 1500 pieces of tiles and then construct to one of the existing wall in Faculty of Creative Multimedia which is 27.48 meters in length and 4.6 meters in height (refer to the appendix). The infrastructure and building materials will all be bought locally. Artists will be invited to draw the few center pieces while those individually painted tiles by the students and staffs will be place around them to make them blend and harmony. The tiles will then send for firing to get an overglaze on top to make the artwork lasting (refer to the attachment: Painting Tiles Techniques for further reference). We also suggest having 4 spotlights to shine on the artwork once the tiles are constructed onto the wall.

 
   
Painting Techniques  

Introduction:

There are many techniques to paint on tiles. You can use underglazes, glazes and overglazes to decorate tiles in a permanent finish and all these paints need to be fired in the kiln. Do not be discouraged if you do not own a kiln. There are many ceramic shops near you that own a kiln, that for a fee they will be happy to fire for you. Ask around, now I see stores like
MJ Designs that offer the service. I do not advise any paints such acrylics for painting on tiles. We need to remember all the hours that we will put on our project deserve a permanent finish. Any other kind of paint will waste our time.

I personally use overglazes. I feel that I get a better result on my designs.
I can do washes like watercolors, and the other reason is, when I use an open medium with overglazes, this allow me to work for many hours ( some times days) without the worry that my paint we will dry and I can paint more realistically.
There is another practical reason: I can paint on any commercial tile sold in the open market and re-fire it in the kiln. This means that you can decorate some tiles but the rest of the filling tiles will be the regular tiles, saving you a lot of time and money.
Then I will focus on overglaze techniques where I think expertise lies.
What are overglaze colors?

One of the misunderstandings about overglazes is on the name itself.
Overglaze paints are vitrifiable paints made from oxides of different metals that applied over a glazed surface, which have been fired in the kiln twice - one for the “biscuit” and once for the glaze, the paints are transferred to part of the glaze after cooling.
In other countries overglazes are called "third fired paints", and in the United States, many call them "china painting colors" due of the popularity of China Painting years ago.
The correct name is "overglazes”, which can be used to paint on any ceramic, china or porcelain body.
Overglaze colors are made from oxide of different metals. The most commonly used are:
Chrome, for the green colors.
Cobalt, for the blue colors.
Iron, for the red and brown colors.
Cadmium, for the yellow colors.
Gold for the pink, ruby, violet and purple colors.
Overglazes are sold as fine powder ready to mix with a medium.

It is very important to fire a color chart sample tile, since most of the colors will change after they are firing.
Colors like yellows and reds do not mix well. They might look really pretty before they are fired, but after firing they will sometimes fade until there is very little color remaining, or the yellow will “eat off” all the red or brown color. With this exemption almost all the colors can be mixed with others. However, there are cadmio colors that will not mix with other colors. These are not ordinary colors and the manufacturer will tell you. I do not use these colors. I try to keep on my palette colors that I have tested and am sure how they work. The best approach is to begin with four colors and add one at the time. The worst mistake is having many colors in your palette and not knows how they work together.
Most colors come from the kiln a shade lighter than they go in. The colors do not always look the same after firing as they do before. The best way to know exactly what the colors will look like after firing is to make a color test.

Painting Mediums:
There are several kinds of mediums and they vary from thin to heavy, or they might be fast drying or slow drying. The medium one use depends a great deal on the technique one plans to use.

A thin medium, or open medium usually dries slowly or never dries. This medium technique allows you to work for many hours and some times days without the worry that the paint will dry. An opened medium is wonderful for working free hand and for painting shadows of several colors. You can paint many layers and create backgrounds of different depth without the need of firing between layers. Of course you can fire the tiles before applying other colors.

A heavy medium or closed medium will dry quickly. This medium will give you more line control. It is great for outlining and writing.
Some times I use both techniques in one project.
Materials:
Overglaze colors of your choice
Open medium
Closed medium (a fat oil or copaiba oil)
Lavender oil ( do not buy the synthetic)
Brushes, square # 8, # 12, point #00, liner #1 ( I use “Sharff brushes from
France)
Palette knife (spatula)
Pen work (fine calligraphy pen)
Soft pencil for glass
Turpentine ( you can use a synthetic kind if you are allergic)

For a preparation with a open medium, place a small amount of dry colors on a ceramic tile, start dropping a few drops of medium into the top of the pile, add just a little oil at the time. When the color is ground smooth with a knife and about the constancy of thick toothpaste it is ready to be transferred to the palette. Do not be afraid to use pressure on the blade of the knife when you are grinding the color.
Some colors are harder to grind as smooth as others and they are usually some of the colors that contain gold.
Wet your brush with oil and dry the brush on a paper towel (too much oil will ruin the color in the kiln). Clean your brush with turpentine each time you change colors.
It is very important to be sure that the surface to be painted is very clean; I clean the tiles with alcohol before painting any piece (let dry alcohol).
The overglazes mixed with open medium can be stored for months.

When you apply the paint, try to do it in small strokes and in thin layers. This is not a regular oil painting. If you apply the paint too heavily will not work, after firing it will fall down. The only way is EXPERIMENT!For mixing the overglazes with a closed medium, use the same processes as for open medium but use fat oil or copaiba oil but get the paint to a heavy consistence. Then add a few drops of lavender oil. You can write with this medium, if you need to thin it, you can add a few drops of turpentine. This paint can not be stored. Prepare just small amounts enough to use in one day.

Choosing your project:
Begin with a small test and choose a simple project. I know sound boring, but the worst mistake is to jump to do a complicated design. Because you are not ready, you will think that this medium is too difficult, and give it up. Begin slowly, maybe doing some leaves until you gain some confidence.
Buy only 4 colors (a red, mixing yellow, black, blue). Do not buy any pink or purple color first because they are more difficult to work with and four times more expensive.

About firing:
Most of the overglazes are fired between 1350 F to 1500 F
Cone 017 for green, red, brown, black colors.
The colors that contain gold need to be fired at higher temperature. Such as Cone 016 to 015.
Follow the manufactures guide.

 
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