Dear Friends and Family,

I love going to a good na gosti every now and then, when I feel that I can stomach a little rakiya and mountains of oily Bulgarian food.  Going to Bulgarian na gostis is often like committing stomach-suicide, but they�re always an adventure.  When I first got to Bulgaria, I thought that my time here would be one long na gosti, and it pretty much WAS when I lived with my host family. However, I haven�t gone on nearly as many visits as I thought I would, simply because, no matter how hard I try, I still remain somewhat of an outsider.  That�s just how the cookie crumbles, I guess.  Bulgarians are typically warm people WHEN you get to know them, but it takes a little while to break down some of those barriers.  Although, every now and then, I still get a nice little surprise.

Yesterday, I met with a young girl who is just a few years younger than me and, like most Bulgarians, she desires to flee her country and seek �opportunity� in America.  She (Tania) is applying to go to America as an au paire and, with her very limited English skills, needed my help with the application materials.  Once again, the native English speaker to the rescue!  I went with Tania to her home and, as is customary, I was immediately given slippers to warm my feet and I was ushered into the kitchen for soup and tea.  If you have ever heard the Biblical story of Mary and Martha, you would realize that all Bulgarian women are truly �Marthas� as they rush around endlessly in order to make their guests as comfortable as possible.  After the warm soup, I read through Tania�s application materials carefully and helped her to fill them out effectively, taking my own creative liberties with many of the questions.  What can I say, I�ve filled out many an application for similar jobs and I know what �BS� these people love to hear! ;-)

Once Tania and I were finished with what is hopefully her �key to opportunity�, I was then ushered into the living room for more food and fun.  The wood-burning stove crackled, the T.V. blared, and Tania talked a mile-a-minute in rapid-fire Bulgarian.  Tania�s father is an International truck driver, so he proudly displayed his collection of currencies from all over Europe (tucked neatly beneath a glass table top!) . . . and then some.  �See this stuffed bear?� he shouted at me (he was one of those LOUD talkers!) �I got this when I was in Russia!  And these glasses came from Austria . . . see there, it says, �Aus-tri-ya�!  Oooh, and look at this little ship that I got in Odessa, Ukraine!  The dolls are from Poland, the clock is from Vienna, and see this dolphin snow globe?!  This comes from Florida, but I haven�t been there, Tania�s aunt lives in Tampa and she sent it to us!�  I gaped at him as he showed me years of international truck driving, all contained in one small living room.  I mean, the guy could have opened up his own souvenir stand and I expected him at any moment to start piling on the crazy hats, the flashy buttons and pins, and the �Somebody in the Ukraine Loves Me� and �My Dad Went to Romania and All I Got Was This Lousy T-Shirt� t-shirts.  And does it even SNOW in Florida?!!?  I was beginning to think that they (the family) were the only items in the house that were truly Bulgarian!  Nearly any little thing we talked about, sparked a memory of his trips to the Czech Republic or Hungary and, when the news came on the T.V. later, he was able to exclaim as if a contestant on a game show, �There�s Poland!� or, �That�s Prague!�  Luckily, I have been to most of the countries he has, so I was able to discuss his journeys with him and know most of what he was talking about.  �My dream,� he told me conspiratorially. �Is to drive a truck across America.�  Yes, I guess it doesn�t hurt to dream . . .

As we feasted on an assortment of Bulgarian delicacies and sipped the potent rakiya and whiskey, Tania�s Dad and I chatted about the most interesting topics, mostly concerning his travels and his job.  We also discussed my home and we somehow ended up on the topic of the economic situation in Mexico . . . don�t ask me!  �America is right above Mexico,� he said. �Mexico is so poor and wealthy America is right above it . . . why isn�t America doing anything to help Mexico to improve?!�  Ummmm, hard question.  �We DO do a little bit to help Mexico,� I stated.  �The country just has a very bad economic situation.�  As usual, I also listened to the complaints about the lack of money and jobs in Bulgaria, unsure of what to say.  �Well, when I was in Greece . . .� he then began, and it was all over from there!

Midway through the meal, I looked up when I saw a wrinkled-figure wobble unsteadily into the room.  Tania�s mother supported a very old baba, who clutched a wooden cane that looked like it had been hand-whittled by someone with a keen interest in whittling.  Baba�s weak limbs shook violently as she was placed in a cushioned chair and Tania�s mom told her, �Look, here is an American girl!  Say good evening!�  �Good evening,� Baba parroted as if it were a struggle to release the words from her lips.  Then, commenced Baba�s garbled mumbling, the translating of the mumbles by at least three Bulgarians for my benefit, me making sense of it all in my head, and them me responding with a quick word or two.  Baba seemed pleased.  When Baba�s time was �up�, Tania�s Mom helped her unsteadily to her curled feet, and she mumbled for me to tell her daughter in Florida (the snow globe queen) hello if I see her, which prompted laughter from her family and the reminder that, �Baba, America is a very big place!�  Sure, Baba, if I�m ever in Tampa, I�ll do just that!

The night wore on and I grew increasingly amazed by how smart the family dog was as he showed of his entire repertoire of little dog �tricks.�  Could it be possible that a DOG knows more Bulgaria than I do?!!?  It just AMAZES me!!!  Then again, this dog has lived here much longer than I have, so he actually might be able to teach me a thing or two!  I wonder how much he charges for tutoring?  But, in the meantime, would you like to check out my snow globe collection?!!?

From the Friend/Daughter/Granddaughter/Niece/Cousin/Acquaintance/Enemy/Whatever Who Went To Bulgaria And Only Sent You This Lousy E-mail,
Chantel 

P.S. EIGHT MORE DAYS TO GO!!!!!
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