Internet Mailing List Apr 97
I think we've all got the same problem. I've put it down to modern paints being very hard and the GRP underneath being comparatively
soft, but maybe someone else has a better explanation. I suppose one answer is to avoid dark colours so that it doesn't show so
much, but has anyone got any tips on repairing stone chips? I've found a Rover metallic colour that matches mine pretty well, but
I just end up with a load of warty splodges when I try to spot in the chipped bits.
Peter Beech
Internet Mailing List Apr 97
On the contrary. Modern paints (urethanes) are much more flexible than the oldies like laquer....that's why I can't understand why
TVR doesn't use them....or perhaps they do use them and we don't know. I really don't believe TVR would use laquer nowadays. Build
up the spots bit by bit and smooth off with fine sandpaper on an eraser pencil tip. It can take a few weeks to do them all though.
Marcus Tooze
Internet Mailing List Apr 97
I use a very fine paint brush (00 or finer bought from an art or modelling store) and either 1600 wet or dry paper or rubbing
compound to smooth it off. It does take a long time - 15 coats is not uncommon in my experience with a large stone chip - especially
when you have to leave each coat to harden. Often one or two coats is enough to remove the immediate visual impact so it is not absolutely
necessary to do all 15 coats! Use the fine brush to put a thin layer of paint into the crack or chip. Let it harden and then
gently rub it back to remove the rough edges. Try and keep the rubbing to the stonechip area. Repeat until the scratch/chip is
filled and smooth with the surrounding body work. If you have never done this before, practice on the underneath of the bonnet
nose first. There's bound to be a scratch or two to practice on and if you make a whoopsy, no-one will see it. This method works
on scratches as well.
Steve Heath
Internet Mailing List Apr 97
Apparently Health and safety legislation has reduced the pressure allowed in spray guns. This is why most modern paint finishes
suffer from orange peel effect. ICI has been working with TVR on a special lacquer. They only do this for TVR as they are the
only company that has asked them.
Ian Collins
Internet Mailing List Apr 97
They are still using laquer? No wonder everybody is complaining about chipping paint!
Marcus Tooze
Internet Mailing List Mar 98
I was at Thames Valley Racing this morning - Steve showed me a cebera that had undergone the 'Chips Away' touch up on the nose cone. The paint match was good, but where each chip was there was a still a pit in the paintwork (now coloured instead of white). The problem seems to be the process uses such a fine layer of paint to blend that it isn't thick enough to bring the depth of the hole back up. I'd say this was still visible from about 5-6
feet away (depending on your eyesight).
Internet Mailing List Jun 98
I have done a number of body repairs and restorations over the years and have had great success using airbrushes (you know, the sort of thing that
graphic artists and custom paint shops use). I have a small airbrush which I bought in the US but they are available in the UK from people like
Machinemart. Usually these are supplied with a very small nozzle (know how it feels) suitable for inks but not for more viscous paints. You can buy
larger nozzle assemblies for use with cellulose car paint etc.. They run off compressed air at about 40 PSI but the really nice thing is that because the
flow is so small you can supply them from a well pumped up spare tyre. All you need to do is buy the appropriate adaptor that fits onto the tyre valve.
They are easy to use but they put on a very thin layer of paint so expect to use more coats. The final benefit is that because the flow is so low, they
create very little overspray so masking can be kept to a minimum. Don't try and respray a whole car with an airbrush it will take forever but for the
majority of minor dings, chips and body mods they are very useful.
Richard Moore