Ignition System

HT Lead Numbers & Firing Order
HT Leads and Rough Running
Spares
A Timing Problem
Ignition Amplifier Failure

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HT Lead Numbers & Firing Order

Jan 97
The firing order is 1 - 8 - 4 - 3 - 6 - 5 - 7 - 2. Looking from the front of the car, cylinders are numbered 1-3-5-7 from front to back on the right bank and 2-4-6-8 from front to back on the left bank. Distributor rotates clockwise.

Early BL workshop manuals for the V8 engine used to advise that leads 5 and 7 should not run next to each other because it can induce misfires. This may not apply with modern HT leads.

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HT Leads and Rough Idling

Nov 97
An area that can cause idling problems is marginally faulty ignition leads. If one cylinder is not firing properly at idling, the lamda sensors will tell the ECU that there is the wrong air/fuel ratio and all the others will be altered as a result. I had exactly this problem and found it only by accident; it didn't appear to affect high power running that much, but when it was fixed the exhaust boom at 2000rpm was significantly reduced (of course if you are only interested in clogging it at traffic lights, try running on seven). Test the resistance of each ignition lead from end to end with a digital multimeter. An open circuit indicates that the lead has a broken internal connection and is flashing over inside. Clumsy servicing can cause this. Also, some examples of lead have excessive resistance and it is worth selecting a reasonably matched set of leads bearing in mind that the resistance varies with length anyway. I would reject anything over 30kohm. The plug caps also have resistance, as do the plugs (plug resistance can also vary enormously). My original leads were 7mm which is obsolete and were replaced with the current 8mm standard after openning up the slots in all the plastic retaining clips. Take care routing the leads around the engine.
Mike Gill

Nov 98
I have a 4 year old 4.0 Chim. And have also recently cut down on the milage that I have been doing. I have had it for a year and had little to no trouble.

But since I haven't been driving it daily, it started running rough, not quite a misfire but noticebly rough. I thought it might be the HT leads. Unbe-knownst to me the heat shields come as seperate. (D'oh) After looking closely at one of the Heat shields I noticed that It had perished inside. So It wasn't making very good contact to the spark plug. I wanted to replace all of them at once, But at 5� each I didn't have enough cash at the time, so I only bought two. I replaced the dodgy one and one other. And It did the trick. It is now running sweet as anything.
Daniel Cukier

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Spares

Sep 96
The distributor is a standard Range Rover body with the standard advance curve. HT lead set is also a standard Range Rover part. Plugs are NGK B7ECS: 30-32 thou gap on non-cat cars and 35-40 thou on cat cars. Apparently it is very important to use the approved ignition coil.

Apr 97
My car is a standard Chimaera 4.0 which was built in June 1996 and which I have owned from new. I seem to have had my fair share of minor niggles which have mostly been quickly rectified by Broughtons at Cheltenham. The one disturbing problem was during the 1000 mile service. When changing the plugs, 3 out of 4 NGK plugs on one side sheared off just below the hexagon, leaving the threaded and cylindrical part of the plug stuck in the head. TVR's solution was to send a replacement head and they claimed to have received a faulty batch of NGK plugs. Incidentally, Broughtons have had the same happen on a Rolls Royce which they put down to the use of counterfeit NGK plugs at a previous service (not by them I hasten to add).
Steve Cooper

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A Timing Problem

Oct 96
You may have read some of my postings regarding re-chipping with Superchips for the Griff 500. You may like to include them in the workshop notes. [see Fuel Injection section].

However, we are increasingly desperate to get hold of tuning specs for the car, namely the tuning at idle, and other rpms other than the 28deg @ 3750rpm. I would appreciate if you could help me obtain this information or direct me to a person who could and their contact numbers. I hope you can understand as we are quite far away here in Singapore. Even though TVR Malaysia is nearby, they are not familiar with the 5.0HC engine.
Kenny Heng

Oct 96
I have had a telephone conversation with TVR Power about ignition timing and the answer may surprise you. The distributor used on all TVR engines is a completely standard Range Rover unit. Because it is a standard part, TVR have never felt it necessary to hold information on the exact characteristics of the advance curve, so they can't tell me anything. Any Range Rover dealer should be able to find out for you, if you give them the number on the distributor body. Apparently the different advance figures given on the engine spec sheets I was sent are purely down to different static advance settings. All current cars (400s and 500s) are being delivered with this set to give 28 degrees at 3750 rpm so the figures in my table [above] are out of date. I think you will get 28 degrees at 3750 by setting the static advance to about 2 or 3 degrees, but a Range Rover dealer should be able to confirm this.

I have, by the way, also spoken to JE Engineering in Coventry. As well as producing performance conversions and big V8s for Range Rovers, JE also do engine development work for the Range Rover factory. They have a policy of not fitting aftermarket chips or modified distributors because of the problems customers have had getting their cars serviced at main dealers once this has been done. They guessed that this was why TVR had stuck with a standard distributor.
Peter Beech

Oct 96
We found the tuning specs from a Land Rover manual and for all their V8 engines, the static timing is 8 deg @ 700rpm. We took the car to a garage here, who specializes in British cars, to have it adjusted. Here's what we found;

1. It was difficult to make any absolute readings because of the pulleys and the position of the marker and its access with the strobe and viewing angle. However, we could make out that it was retarded rather than advanced! We could see the marker on the "AFTER" side of TDC.

2. We proceeded to advance it by rotating the distributor clockwise a fraction at a time until we were sure it was advanced (on "other side" of TDC ie BEFORE). Since we couldn't see any markings for position of distributor, this was done with eye-ball guesstimation and feel.

3. Further fine tuning was done by advancing further in minute increments, then driving the car repeatedly, to the point the engine began to knock. At that point we retarded by rotating anti-clockwise. We have no access to a rolling road, which would otherwise be ideal for this. Un-scientific as this was, it seemed to do the trick for now. The engine idled even better, and was able to pull much better (in terms of absolute acceleration and smoothness) from lower rpms. How much this is due to tuning, and how much attributed to Superchips is unknown. Sometime later, we will re-fit the original TVR chip and make a better comparative assessment. The car nonetheless is running better now than it ever did.

I still find it difficult to comprehend that a Griff 500 engine is still very much stock Land Rover. I would like to get hold of a book which describes the Land Rover V8s well. Do you know of any?

One other interesting observation was that after advancing to the point mentioned above, the engine seem to run about 2 degs cooler at 89 degs. Does advancing ignition timing usually result in lower engine temperatures?
Kenny Heng

Oct 96
Pleased to hear you've had some success. There are two books about Rover V8s that I think are very good, both written by David Hardcastle and published by Haynes (they cost about £15-20 each):

The Rover V8 Engine, 1990, ISBN 0-85429-629-1.
Tuning Rover V8 Engines, 1993, ISBN 0-85429-933-5.

Obviously they are a little out of date as far as the latest versions of the engine are concerned, but interesting reading all the same. Incidentally, neither of the above books have much to say about ignition timing, which rather suggests that engines in various stages of tune are pretty happy with the standard advance curve.

I believe very retarded ignition does cause overheating. If you think about it, the fuel is igniting later than it should and probably still burning when the piston has finished its combustion stroke and is on its way back up the cylinder on the exhaust stroke, thus some of the energy from each combustion is actually trying to make the engine go backwards! Another nasty effect is that the exhaust valves are partly open while the fuel is still burning, which can eventually burn the valves out.
Peter Beech

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Ignition Amplifier Failure

Letter Jul 98
Whilst driving my Griffith 500 in Finland the ignition light came on and the engine cut out completely, luckily I was next to a bus stop and could pull off the road. The problem turned out to be the ignition amplifier located on the external right hand side of the distributor cap which has three leads terminated with spade connectors. Upon inspection these were in a poor state and after replacing with standard spade connectors from work the car started no problem and has never cut out since.
Roy Boykew

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