Cooling System Generally
Specification
Topping Up and Bleeding
Griffith Fan Sensors
Fitting a Fan Override Switch
Footwell Gurgles
Screeching Pump Pulley
Griffith Heating and Ventilation System
Griff Heater Control
Griffith Radiator Replacement
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Specification
Early models (up to mid 1994) have a combined swirl pot and expansion tank sited at the front of the engine. Later models with Serpentine
engines have a separate expansion tank sited near the radiator.
Apr 97
My current car [1995 Chimaera] compared to my previous 1993 Chimaera looks like there have been some changes around the cooling of
the radiator:
- The air filter is lifted out of the direct airflow path through the radiator.
- The radiator is now "boxed in" to ensure that all the airflow goes through it.
- The front grille has now gone and the bonnet has better vent holes. The number plate is still mounted in front of the radiator.
Geoff Cahalin
Topping Up and Bleeding
Antifreeze spec is given in the Owner's Handbook. Dilution should be 33%.
Procedure for topping up the earlier models is:
- Remove blue cap on swirl pot (that's the 'tower' in front of the engine).
- Fill to top of threads (ie. overflowing).
- Slacken bleed screw on offside top of radiator.
- When level in swirl pot drops, tighten radiator screw.
- Top up swirl pot to 1.5" below screw thread and replace cap.
For the later (Serpentine) models:
- Remove cap on swirl pot.
- Remove expansion tank cap, half-fill with coolant and replace cap.
- Fill swirl pot to top of threads.
- Slacken bleed screw on radiator.
- When level in swirl pot drops, tighten radiator screw.
- Top up swirl pot to top of screw thread and replace cap.
Do the above with the engine cold. There should be no need to top up again after running the engine.
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Griffith Fan Sensors
Sprint Aug 96
The first ride in my recently purchased K-reg Griffith in heavy traffic was a boiling experience as the coolling fans only started
to function AFTER the pressure cap released a cloud of steam. The temperature gauge was in the red area when this happened,
indicating a genuine overheating.
As a temporary measure I bridged the two 2 wires on the cooling fan sensor and this brought down the temperature to an acceptable
level . . . I rushed off to the Land Rover dealer and bought a new fan switch and fitted it the same evening. To my surprise
this did not improve the situation and a further examination revealed that the genuine cooling fan switch had a switch on/off temperature
of 100/94C which which seems far too high . . . I have now fitted a cooling fan sensor with on/off temperature of 92/87C and the
needle of the gauge just slightly increases now under severe circumstances. I think the actual Land Rover switch is used for disconnecting
the air-conditioning clutch just when the engine nearly overheats and therefore it is not suitable to engage cooling fans as these
are required long BEFORE the engine will overheat. The cooling fan sensor that I used is a part that can be bought in all car
parts shops. The diameter of the thread is 22 x 1.5 and it is used on some Volkswagens. The one I used is a C1 EXFS20. If you
are quick you can do the job without losing too much coolant so you just need to top it up. Bleeding is not required. Make sure
the engine is fully cooled before removing the sensor.
Tom Mogyorossy
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Fitting a Fan Override Switch
Internet Mailing List Sep 98
As I'm about to spend a week in the Griff I thought it would be nice to stick a radiator fan override switch.
I've traced the fans from the switch on the swirl tank (purple and black I think ) however I'm not entirely sure where they end up.
Are they the purple and black wires that go into a relay which is set behind the Radio ??
If so am I safe to splice these and stick a switch somewhere?
David Donnan
Internet Mailing List Sep 98
Leave the current wiring alone. These colours are often re-used. Don't take the risk as you may do more damage than you think. Simply run a two
core cable from the switch through the bulkhead with two lucar piggyback connectors to the otter [this is all getting a bit zoological, isn't it?] switch at the bottom of the swirl tank. Put the
switch in parallel with the otter switch using the piggy back connectors. The switch current is not high - the main power is taken by the relay.
It is removeable and you have not damaged any of the wiring.
The wire can be fed through an existing gromit used by the wiring loom but seal it with silicone sealant afterwards. A few cable ties keeps the
cable neatly attached under the bonnet. I usually put the switch on the underneath indicator cover. A black one from Maplins.
Steve Heath
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Footwell Gurgles
Internet Mailing List Nov 96
... While we are on the subject of strange noises from my griff. There is also the sound of water moving in the passenger footwell,
it is not wet, and the noise is intermittent, is it the heater?
David Donnan
Internet Mailing List Nov 96
The water noise is indeed the heater pipes and/or the water valve for the heater. The noise gets better if you keep the water level
topped up and get the heater valve replaced every couple of months (bitter, moi?). Unfortunately, if you mess around with the pipes
too much you're likely to get water leaking into the relays/fuses.
Gary Walsh
Internet Mailing List Nov 96
The heater pipes run through the footwell above and to the right of the battery, the noises may be due to air in the system so
I suggest you turn the heater on and run the engine (from cold) with the filler cap off for a few minutes.
Nick Collins
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Screeching Pump Pulley
Internet Mailing List May 97
My Chimaera 4.3 has just developed a horrible worrying metallic screeching noise (sounds a bit like drilling through sheet metal)
which manifests itself when you put your foot down a little from idle.
[and a couple of weeks later . . .]
Time to relax - the metallic screeching noise was due to a knackered water pump idler pulley and a knackered water pump belt. So, if
you hear such a noise, it might not be the big end and you can heave a sigh of relief...
Andrew Derodra
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Griffith Heating and Ventilation System
Jan 98
The ventilation system of the 92 J and K reg. is not the most sophisticated one so here's a description
of function/design & repair. It's based on the experiences I had with my own Griffith only, but I assume
others may benefit from it.
Function and Design
The ventilation system described here is based on a RHD car without air-conditioning.
On left hand drive (LHD) cars the complete system is in mirror view if compared with the right hand
drive (RHD) cars.
The fresh air intake is the same air intake where the engine cooling radiator has its intake; under the
front licence plate. Just underneath the radiator a hole has been made in the left hand radiator side panel where the air is
being drawn into the compartment under the left hand head lamp. This hole is also used to replace the front indicator bulb.
A three speed Vauxhall Cavalier/Opel Vectra fan/motor unit is positioned in the middle of that space on 2 brackets.
There is no conventional air duct from the fan unit to the interior of the car; instead the inner and outer
wing functions as the actual duct. Around the fan unit a leather flap separates the fan unit from the air intake and the 'duct'.
The airflow will be directed to the space in the wing behind the front wheel.
In the left hand interior side panel (under the dash board) some openings are cut for various purposes:
- One elongated opening to direct the air to the heater box.
The elongated opening is the inlet to the heater box and the air distribution flap. The heater box is fitted
directly in front of this opening and sealed off with self-adhesive sponge.
The air distribution flap which is electrically controlled by the switch on the centre panel will distribute
the warm air to either windscreen or foot well. This flap is located inside the heater box.
- One small round hole directing the air to the
two ventilation jets on the dash through plastic tubes and junctions (a genuine house plumbing article).
Since these two jets (passenger side and the one located under the hazard warning switch) are NOT
connected with the heater box they will provide fresh air only.
- The 3rd opening in the panel (big round opening) is sealed off with the carpet and is used for access to
the side repeater in the wing.
When the air is directed to the windscreen, an extra bypass will also provide warm air to the ventilation
jet closest to the driver.
When the air is directed to the foot well, the ventilation jet in the heater box will provide warm air
directly for the passenger. The driver will be provided with warm air via a duct running through the
engine compartment (visible from the engine compartment) with the ventilation jet fitted to the side of
the centre console.
The heater temperature is controlled by an electrically controlled valve which is fitted to the inlet water
hose. A small diameter by-pass tube fitted between the heater inlet and return hose ensures proper
coolant flow through the cylinder head of the engine when the valve is in the closed position.
As a consequence these hoses will always feel warm even when the heater is closed.
Because the temperature and airflow controls do not have any indication in which position they are, it
is not possible to detect in which position temperature and airflow valves are from the interior.
Repair
Although the system seems quite simple some repair hints may be of help.
If there is any problem with the fan unit it may be required to remove the head lamp unit.
Of course the fuse, the wiring and the switch have to be checked first before removing the fan unit.
- Carefully cut the silicon sealant surrounding the head lamp with a sharp knife (the blade has to be
about 2 inches (5 cm) long). Needless to say you should not cut into the body or the head lamp cover.
- When the lamp unit is cut loose, remove the small service panel inside the wheel arch (the one which
is used to replace the head lamp bulb).
- Remove the bracket that holds the lamp unit and disconnect the wiring. Most likely the lamp unit will stay in position -
you now have to press the unit down from the outside with you knee.
If too much force is needed it may indicate that the silicon sealant has not been fully removed.
- When the head lamp has come loose it can be removed by rotating it slightly.
- You have now access to the fan unit.
- Due to the positioning of the fan it is very likely that the motor and the connector are attacked by water
and/or road salt. It is recommended to replace the connector with a weatherproof connector which is available through
specialised company's. (Vehicle Wiring Products in Ilkeston, Derbys, UK, supplies these connectors. Phone No. 0115
9305454; Part number 1x WP5, 5 pin). The fan unit itself is a Vauxhall/Opel unit.
-
- When replacing the connector it is recommended to replace the head lamp, indicator
lamp, and spot lamp connectors with weatherproof connectors too, as they will also be corroded.
(Part numbers 2x WP5, 4x WP3).
- The leather flap that seals off the fan unit may have come loose from the wing and radiator side panel.
It is easy to replace it by one that�s made from thin aluminium sheet and to seal it with off with Poly
Urethane kit (PU kit has better adhesive properties that silicon kit).
Also check if the seal between the radiator side panel and the body front panel is still in its correct
position.
- Every leak in the space between inner and outer wing will reduce the capacity of the fan; seal every
hole or gap before replacing the head lamp. The best way to check for air leaks is by switching on the fan to position 3
and to close all interior vent jets.
- Before refitting the head lamp unit remove all silicon kit remains from both lamp unit and body.
- Position the head lamp in such way that the gap is equal on all sides and fit the bracket.
When the lamp is in its correct position it should the be sealed off with black silicon kit (don't use PU
kit here as is will make removal of the lamp at a next accession very difficult)
- The silicon seal is also part of the sealing of the duct compartment.
- The left hand side interior panel as described above can also be a source of air leaks.
- The hole that gives access to the side repeater may need to be sealed off properly with an aluminium
panel and silicon kit or sticky tape.
- The knee joints (plumbing) also have to be fitted properly and may need additional sealing.
- The self adhesive sponge fitted between the heater box and the elongated opening may be
deteriorated. With the heater box in position it is only possible to apply new sponge at the side and the bottom of the
heater box. If the upper sponge has also deteriorated the best way to seal the unit is by stuffing the hole area on
top of the heater box with bits of upholstery fillings (available from the local furniture shops) rather
than removing the heater box.
- The hoses and junctions to all 3 dashboard vent jets may�ve come apart.
Removal of the glove box compartment and the radio will give access to these hoses. Use tape and/or
kit to seal of all hoses and junctions.
When this is all done the heater and ventilation system should function properly.
The following design features however will give restriction to the system:
- The fresh air intake at the front of the car is very close to the engine radiator. Due to this the air will be pre-heated in some cases.
- By taking in fresh air so close to street level exhaust fumes from cars in front of you may be soaked up
and forced into the interior(Carbon monoxide is heavier than air and 'sits' on the streets)
- The ducting of the air from fan to interior (Inner/outer wing) has a fairly high resistance. In combination with slight leaks it is not so efficient.
- Both the inner wing and the hose that runs through the engine compartment will absorb engine heat
and transfer it to the intake air, again resulting in an increase of air temperature.
- The dashboard jets have a low capacity even when the system is quite leak free. Most likely the
diameter of the hoses is too small and restrict the airflow. The two lower heater jets are better in this respect.
Tom Mogyor�ssy
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Griffith Heater Control
Internet Mailing List Sep 97
Does anybody know how the heater hot water flow is controlled on a Griff 500? The heater is on full heat all the time. Is it
an electrically controlled valve, as the dash control doesn't seem to be linked by a normal metal cable.
Steve Jenkins
Internet Mailing List Sep 97
It's a motorised valve in the passenger footwell on the right hand side above the battery compartment. Check that it's not
snagged on a cable or a bit of carpet.
Nic Collins
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Griffith Radiator Replacement
Letter Sep 97
I wonder if you can help me? My Griffith 4.3 has had a bit of a coolant leak by the top hose connection to the radiator. I thought
I'd fixed it at the weekend when I put two jubilee clips on it to make sure it never leaked again! However after taking it for
a test run the radiator split on the join near where the hose is. My first thought was maybe that was where it was leaking all
along then I thought maybe the pressure had built up to cause it to happen but then I would have thought the pressure cap would
go first (this is what the man at Brooklands said). I was worried that the headgasket had gone but then there's no evidence of oil
in the coolant system so I may be being a bit too pessimistic.
Anyway, in any case I need to fit a new radiator and therefore I am asking you whether you have any tips or notes on a smooth
removal and refitting of a radiator on a Griffith before I start. It looks fairly straightforward but would appreciate any advice.
Also do you know anywhere that does Griffith radiators (I believe they are slightly modified Range Rover radiators) cheap ? Brooklands
is the cheapest I've found so far but will still cost �220 incl VAT. At least I'll save the labour!
Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Dave Wardle
Dave,
I'm afraid no-one with a Griff has felt moved to send me any detailed instructions on removing the radiator, but I think you're right
and it is pretty straightforward. I've been told that the only difference between a Griff radiator and a Range Rover one is the
bottom hose connection, so that should be fairly simple as well. I would imagine the rad on a 4.3 is getting to an age when it's
starting to silt up a bit, so I wouldn't personally bother trying to repair it. Best bet is probably to find a local radiator specialist
and see whether they can modify a new or refurbished Range Rover item for you.
Sorry I can't be more helpful, but if you do get it done please let me know how you get on.
Peter
Peter,
I got my new radiator (from Brooklands) and fitted it this weekend. Everything appears to have gone OK and no leaks so far! It was
fairly straight- forward but time consuming.
Dave
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