See Battery for trickle charging
Chimaera 4.0 & 4.3 litre
This is based on a TVR-designed control module which controls
locking and unlocking of the doors and the internal door release
mechanisms. This effectively dead locks the car's doors. There
is no remote control facility (but one can be fitted), the control
unit is activated via the external door locks (source - Vauxhall).
When the unit is triggered it either locks or unlocks both doors.
On locking, it arms the alarm system and immobilises three circuits:
the fuel pump, engine-management system and fuel gauge. You
can use the fuel gauge immobilisation circuit to immobilise a
different circuit but it must be under 5 Amps. This is a true
two circuit immobiliser which meets [met] several insurance companies'
requirements. The circuits cannot be activated if the ignition
is on, or de-activated by hot wiring the ignition. A microwave
alarm is used in conjunction with the system. The alarm unit
is the Gemini 1002 and the sensor is the Gemini 1059.
Griffith 500
This is similar to the Griffith 4.0 and 4.3 system, but immobilises
the ECU and the starter motor. This creates a true two circuit
immobiliser which meets the standards required by many insurance
companies. The immobiliser is activated when the remote handset
is used to lock the car. It cannot be activated if the ignition
is on, or de-activated by hot wiring the ignition circuit. A
microwave alarm is used in conjunction with the locking. The
alarm unit is the Gemini 1002 and the sensor is the Gemini 1059.
If the Radio Key no longer operates the alarm systern, try the spare one. If the system is operating correctly this indicates the first remote is simply out of synchronisation. It is possible to resynchronise the Radio Key:
The Radio Key is now back in synchronisation with the alarm. You may have to try a few times before the system will respond correctly, if you don't do step 4 quickly enough - the button need only be released for a split second.
Ass'istant Ed's Comment: One complete discharge shouldn't
render the battery useless. Perhaps it was on its way out anyway?
If the alarm draws so much power, one solution might be to leave
a trickle charger charger connected whilst away. I'm sure the
experts will come to your aid with a better solution though
John Osborne
Sprint May96
I experienced similar problems to Linda with my Chimaera when
it was only about 5 months old. We went on holiday, left it locked
and alarmed and on return the battery was flat. The doors being
locked of course one becomes very adept at breaking and entry
- try to charge the battery but no luck it'ss dead and needs replacing,
and as John O comments it shouldn't happen unless the battery
is on its way out - but with a new car?
So we fit a new battery only to find the electrical locking system
and the mechanical system are out of synch - much clattering of
relays which takes good luck and a little magic to reset. The
solution I have come up with is as suggested, to trickle charge
and the easy way to do this is to buy a plug that fits the cigarette
lighter socket, connect a long lead (not too thick) to the trickle
charger and close the car door on the leads so that the car is
left locked and alarmed while you are away. A bit of a pain and
I'm sure not TVR approved, but it works.
Mike Penery
Internet Mailing List
The standard Gemini alarm fitted to our Chimi seems to be quite
good, although a light tap on the hood or back windows will set
it off, cats and other warm-bonnet seeking animals don't.
Why did this geezer bother to slash the back window of your car? I managed to break into our Chim in sub 30 secs by forcing my hand between the Velcro bits at the back of the hood and knocking the supports away. I had to do this as the battery was dead and the doofa didn't work. Scratched my arm a bit, but given a couple more minutes and a booster battery and I could probably have driven it away as when I plugged the battery charger on the alarm wasn't active so presumably it's default state is off from a new connection - odd that one.
Anyone knowing the battery position in Chimis (and Griffs I suppose)
could quite easily disconnect it for a couple of seconds, reconnect,
knacker the ignition key barrel and pinch your car within a few
minutes if my amateur break-in effort is anything to go by. Just
a thought - don't have nightmares!
Rupert Kent
Internet Mailing List
The only way to go is Clifford, Jas. I have had a Clifford Concept
50 on my TVR and my last Peugeot . . . The Concept 50 is an alarm
Immobiliser, with glass tamper, microwave and door and bonnet
sensors. Thatcham 1 approved too. You can also add any of the
following: perimeter detection, talking module etc etc at a later
date. As for a pager it is okay (300 yards away I believe they
work), but prevention is better than curing a problem I would
say. Also I would not like to be faced with the sort of car thief
you get in Brum. 470 quid I believe for the concept 50. If you
want to know more please mail me (Oh yes I also have nice wooden
key fobs too). If you want one please let me know as I know quite
a good place to get it done, just mail me for their phone number.
Ian Collins
Internet Mailing List Apr 97
My Gemini alarm has started to play up. The central locking enables
and the engine immobiliser engages when I press the clicker but
the alarm emits two short blips and fails to activate. If I trigger
the alarm (by banging the rear window) I get another short blip
noise instead of the alarm siren going off.
I noticed a series of posts indicating poor earthing could affect
the alarm system, could this be the problem ? Anyone got any suggestions
before I ask for it to be checked at the next service ?
Mark Elliott
Internet Mailing List Apr 97
If I remember correctly... two short blips means that one or more
of the detection circuits is not complete and that the
alarm will not arm correctly. I would check the earths
but also the interior light door switches and a bonnet
switch if one has been fitted. It has also been known for
the lead(s) to come loose from the alarm unit itself. With
the alarm in this state, your insurance company could construe
that it is faulty and invalidate any theft cover. So I
would get it checked ASAP. Use a local Gemini alarm dealer
if necessary.
Power and/or earth for the alarm is usually taken from the headlamp connections. Most alarms do not drive these lights directly but tap into the standard switches and use the normal relays. Again, it all depends...
The door switches normally make an earth connection and this can be used to trigger the alarm by simply piggy-backing onto the two connections. The problems with current drain for the doors is that if the interior lights are switched off, then the drain through the relay may not be enough to set off the alarm.
If you only have one clicker, get a spare. It can take up to a week to get one as they are not usually available off the shelf. If the code number is not inside the clicker, then the clicker will need to be sent away to extract the correct code as well!
The TVR alarm systems were until a couple of years ago (1994)
quite varied and effectively fitted after the car was built. Later
cars have the alarm incorporated into the electrics.
Steve Heath
Internet Mailing List Apr 97
With most Gemini alarms if you press the blipper once then again
quickly afterwards the alarm will set but the sensors will be
not be activated. This is so you can lock the door etc. in an
area where the sensor could create a false alarm. You will hear
two short bleeps to let you know this has happened. When you
then set the alarm off you will hear a bleep instead of the full
alarm (for testing?). Maybe the button on your blipper is getting
stuck making it look like two presses. Maybe the sensors are
defective and the alarm is shutting them down to stop false alarms.
Nick Hatch
Internet Mailing List Apr 97
After a long weekend of ripping the Chimaera's dash apart, I have
finally found out why one side of the car's indicators don't always
go off when they are supposed too. As many people suggested,
it was a faulty relay but it is one inside the central locking
module that controls the indicators.
For all of you who wanted to know how I fixed the alarm, read on. In my Chimaera the central locking module was located under the passenger side dash next to the heater control. The remote control module was stuck to the top of this central locking box and they both have multi-plug connectors which I disconnected and I could remove both modules as they were velcro'd down. (Underneath which you might find a witty TVR engineers remarks!) Inside my central locking box, there were 5 clear relays that control the central locking - 2 to lock and 2 to unlock (why another?). The one that controls the indicators was at the top of the PCB if you are looking down on it and you have the multi-plug connector on your left. It was coloured blue & had loads of numbers/designators/specifications on the side.
I managed to lever off the cover (I think it just clips on) and there are two sides to the contacts (ie left & right which controls the appropriate side of the car). The offending one was arcing when activated and there seemed to be a small lump of metal on one side of the contacts. I scraped it away using a fine knife and tried to bend the centre moveable contact to give it more room to 'disconnect'. (hope you understand all this!). Unfortunately, I bent it too much (typical) and the bloody thing wouldn't go on. A bit of bending (!) later and the thing now works as advertised.
The central locking module was a 'TVR Issue 1' not that it makes any difference I'm sure. I tried unsoldering the relay to have a closer look or replace and although I removed all the solder, it wouldn't budge - perhaps it was glued to the pcb? Who knows.
Hope that has put all of your minds at rest - any further questions
or if I didn't explain it clearly then contact me.
Nic Conway
e-mail address : [email protected]
Internet Mailing List Aug 96
Bit of a problem, I know. I have set mine to cover the largest
area WITHIN the car. If you adjust it so it measures the interior
(just inside the roof) then the rain should not effect it. The
doors are okay as it should have either voltage drop (interior
light works okay?) or door switches. The problem I have found
is that when it is in the garage the microwave gets pretty sensitive
so I have turned it down so it only covers a small area within
the car. Mine is a Clifford by the way.
Ian Collins
Current legislation (since 1992) is that ALL electronic equipment "shall not cause unwanted interference to radio" and "shall not suffer undue interference from radio". If you wish to know whether the equipment that you buy (alarms etc) comply with this, look for a "ce" mark on the unit or packaging. A lot of dealers are probably still selling (or clearing) old stock that does not comply. (quite illegally).
Current legislation (since 1996) is also that vehicles must comply to very similar rules. In this case it is the familiar "e" mark that is used. Coming legislation will require ALL electronic equipment intended for fitting in a vehicle must also comply with the same rules as the complete vehicle. Furthermore if you have someone install the alarm etc in the vehicle for you then they are responsable under the law that the complete installation complies with the above rules. I would suggest that if you are having problems with recent vehicles, recent installations etc that you have very good reason to go back to the dealer/installer and tell them to sort it out.
For those of you with less recent vehicles and installations, here are a few ideas:
If you really have to use a GSM then:
If the ehicle is very recent you should check with TVR for possible recommendations. They should be aware of all the new regulations and should give you advice on the best (or accepted) installation.
If the vehicle is older and TVR can offer no particular advice then:
Old technology cellular phones, ie "analogue" types
probably would not cause any of these problems. But hey, that's
progress!
Pete Hizzy