Pregnancy, Whelping
and Puppy Care
The following has been read and approved by several licensed veterinarians. However, it is meant to be a guide to be used in addition to other information obtained through reading and consulting with your own veterinarian. This is not meant to be a contradiction to any professional advice you receive elsewhere. I take no responsibility for any problems that your bitch or her puppies experience. This is for info only. If you wish to print this out for your own use, that is fine. But if you pass on to anyone else, please make sure you copy in it's entirety, including this disclaimer. Also, new products and methods are continually being offered. This is not meant to pass judgement on any of those new products. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Before breeding your Westie Bitch it is most important to find a veterinarian whom you can trust, who will listen to you and who will be available when you need him -- no matter when that may be. I have my veterinarian's home phone number and in an emergency would not hesitate to call him even at 3:00 am on New Year's Day. Nor would he be upset with me for doing so. I know he cares almost as much as I do about the welfare of my dogs. Also, worm your Westie bitch and make sure that she is healthy and up to date on her shots, but do not administer modified-live parvo vaccine within 6 weeks prior to breeding. (Modified-live parvo vaccine can prevent pregnancy or cause abortions). Do not administer any vaccines or worming medicines after breeding. Mother may be wormed along with the puppies if necessary at that time. Vaccines not received prior to breeding should wait until the puppies are weaned. Many breeders also advise that the bitch be taken off her heartworm preventative when pregnant also. After your bitch is bred mark her due date on your calendar and plan on spending several days with her waiting on the puppies and helping her with the newborns. The textbook gestation period is 63 days, but anything from 56 days from the first breeding to 67 days from the last breeding is possible. The most inconvenient time for you is also the most likely! The first sign of pregnancy is usually morning sickness during the third week (occasionally preceded by a voracious appetite). This may evidence itself as refusal to eat certain foods at certain times of the day or as regurgitation, usually in the morning. This has been an almost 100% certain indicator (positive or negative) at our house. This sign may be missed if your dog does not usually eat in the morning . My dogs all eat at breakfast-time out of separate dishes in separate cages. This gives me an almost immediate indication of illness as well as an indication of pregnancy. Since excess vitamin A can cause cleft palate in Westie pups when administered during the 17th to 22nd days of gestation, and since the exact date of conception is not known (even if you know the exact date of breeding), please be very careful regarding any foods or supplements fed during the first month of pregnancy. Liver, eggs, orange and yellow vegetables, some dairy products, margarine, and most multi-vitamins for pets are high in vitamin A and should be avoided at this time. All she needs is her regular dog food, provided that it is a good, quality dog food that is suitable for all stages of life and not just a maintenance food. Any special dietary requirements for your particular dog should be discussed with your veterinarian. By the 4th or 5th week, other signs of pregnancy may be present including: enlarging and reddening of the nipples, a clear vaginal discharge resembling raw egg white, and of course, an enlarging abdomen. (A veterinarian can usually palpate -- feel the presence of -- developing embryos at this point.) This is the time to increase the mother's food by about 50%. Feed her more dry food or add some canned food or human-grade meats. If you wish to give her a treat, yogurt is a good source of calcium and is good for her coat, which she may shed profusely shortly before or after delivery. Multi-vitamins are a good idea during the second month of pregnancy. I prefer Pet-Tabs because the extra zinc is good for coat, skin and pigment. Please do not give calcium tablets unless prescribed by your veterinarian for a specific reason in your Westie's particular case. Unnecessary calcium supplements can cause more harm than good because they can result in an imbalance in nutrients. Some breeders do prefer to give their bitches raspberry leaves (from a health food store, in pill form) toward the end of the pregnancy to ease labor and delivery. I have found that it eases apprehension and speeds the first stages of labor, though it also masks the signs of those early stages. Moderate exercise throughout pregnancy is also important - it will make whelping and caring for a litter a lot easier. A daily walk is good. You can vary the speed and distance according to weather conditions and proximity to her due date. Do not assume that she will exercise herself. Also try to keep her from jumping during pregnancy (almost impossible with some, I know). By the sixth week, you should be preparing the bitch's whelping box, and letting her visit it to prepare her nest of shredded newspaper. Keep lots of newspaper handy so you can provide a clean surface often during whelping. A supply of large plastic garbage bags should also be on hand. Some bitches will shred newspaper to prepare a nest. This is okay, but too many shreds only get wrapped around Mom's legs during whelping. Also, any shredded paper should be removed by the end of the first week, if not before, to prevent injuring puppy eyes as they open. I lay down copious layers of newspaper, and remove sheets as necessary. During the 7th to 8th week, clip tummy and rear-end hair short and keep Mother clean. I like to cut hair from in front of her eyes and clean her teeth (to prevent bacterial infection of the cord when she bites it). Also make sure you have all the necessary supplies near the whelping box, including a source of heat such as a heat lamp and/or heating pad. Among the necessary items you should have ready: Towels, small separate box for pups, scale, lots of newspaper, baby bottles, scissors, Nutrical*, thread (to tie cords), Esbilac Notebook & Pen or other formula, mineral Oil**, alcohol (to clean scissors), baby ear syringe, surgical type gloves, if desired * Nutrical has saved many puppies - please have some on hand before labor begins. ** Mineral Oil is used to "grease-up" a stuck puppy Signs of labor are restlessness, shivering and panting. These signs may last up to 2 days before delivery or they may start and stop periodically. When these signs occur, start taking her temperature. If her temperature drops below 99 F, and stays down, puppies should arrive within 24 hours (usually within 12). If you are taking her temperature often (every two hours), you may notice it suddenly start to rise again. Whelping is now imminent. If no pups are born within 24 hours from the temperature drop, this may be the first sign of trouble, and you may wish to call your veterinarian. During labor she will refuse food and may regurgitate; this is normal. Small amounts of water may be offered, and allowing her to walk around (in the house) is a good idea. Frequent urination is also normal. As whelping progresses, the bitch may confuse labor with the need to defecate. This is also normal. Encourage her to stay on paper; do not let her go outside. When Mother starts pushing, note the time. Two hours of pushing is not unusual, though some pups come after a few minutes, and the first pup may take even longer. Most veterinarians want to be called after two hours though I have often had bitches push for almost four hours prior to delivering the first puppy. Periods of rest with no pushing or other signs of active labor are also normal between puppies. According to one well-known and respected vet, signs of trouble include: Temperature back up with no signs of labor Weak or ill bitch History of problems Fetal stress on ultrasound or x-ray Gestation of greater than 68 days More than 60 minutes of straining (see above) Weak, non-productive contractions More than 3 hours between pups We have found that "reading Mom" is an accurate indicator. If Mom is relaxed and "looks happy", things are probably going well. If Mom looks extremely worried, or is extremely agitated without pushing between pups (agitation before the first pup is normal), there may be a problem. Of course first time Mom's will look more concerned than experienced ones. But a happy face on Mom is always a good sign. When a puppy is delivered, a new mom may not know what to do. Let her clean off the pup and chew off the cord if she wants to. Some breeders advocate allowing the mother to eat the placenta. My vet does not agree since he has had bitches choke on them. Also eating too many placentas may make her sick and will probably cause diarrhea the following day. If mother doesn't take care of the newborn, you will have to remove the sac, cut and tie the cord (if cut with dull scissors or chewed by the bitch, it may not need to be tied), dry the pup and make sure the pup is breathing well on its own. Several methods of helping a poor breather are possible and should have been learned previously, including "shake down", chest compression, or "mouth to nose-mouth", etc. Rubbing the pup with a rough towel, or Mother's licking the pup roughly with her tongue, or even a drop of brandy on the pup's tongue may help a weak breather. Using a baby ear syringe to suck out the nose and mouth will also help. If the pup is not breathing at all and Mom's efforts fail, don't be afraid to try anything. If the pup doesn't breathe, it won't live. I work on a puppy up to fifteen minutes before giving up, and longer if it is breathing somewhat and at least getting a little air. Some vets will also supply their experienced clients with Dopram to help a poor breather. When the puppy is breathing well and is dry, weigh it, and mark it for identification if necessary. (I use a dab of food coloring or magic marker. Some breeders use nail polish, but I have had problems when "Mom" tries too hard to lick/bite if off!) I like to keep notes and record the sex, weight, and time of birth for each pup. A dab of Nutrical on the puppy's tongue will give it some nourishment and energy while learning to nurse or while waiting for a chance to nurse if Mom is busy delivering other puppies. When Mom starts pushing again, it is best to put the first pup in a separate box with its own heat source so mom can concentrate on the next puppy without worrying about hurting the first one. The heat source should keep the puppy warm, but be careful that it is not too hot. And watch that "Mom" doesn't chew the cord or dig at it. Make sure that there is a placenta delivered for each puppy. Sometimes the placenta will come with a puppy, sometimes it will come right after a puppy, and sometimes it will come with the following puppy. The important thing is that the same number of placentas are passed as there are pups delivered. Retained placentas can cause a lot of problems. If you think one has been retained, or that there are more pups that she is not trying to deliver, call the veterinarian. Usually a shot of oxytocin is all that is necessary. Some veterinarians will provide experienced breeders with a supply of oxytocin to keep on hand. However, it is important to check with your vet before administering this drug as a ruptured uterus is a possible result if given at the wrong time. Oxytocin will also help to shrink the uterus back to normal size and bring in the milk supply when whelping is completed. For this reason, one dose is recommended after all pups have been delivered. Mother may ignore her pups until all are born and/or her milk is in. There seems to be a chemical or hormonal connection to the motherly instincts. If she is ignoring her puppies, check to see if she has milk. You may have to step in and help care for the puppies until she does. This is especially true with first-time mothers, but can happen in experienced ones as well. Also make sure mother is bonding with the puppies before you leave her alone with them. If she is washing them and nursing them, she has accepted them. Do not let her bite at them or carry them around. Should your vet determine that a C-section is necessary, ask about the anesthetic - you don't want groggy puppies. Most veterinarians now use Isoflourene. This does not affect the puppies, and "Mom" recuperates quickly to she can take care of her pups. Also, be emphatic in telling your vet not to put the pups in with Mom after they are delivered -- you will do that when she is alert and being carefully monitored (you must be certain she is bonding with the pups and will not harm them). I have heard too many horror stories about vets who do not know Westies and their feisty temperaments. Dehydration is one of the first signs that a puppy is not getting adequate nourishment. Signs of dehydration are dry or sticky mouth, listlessness, dark yellow urine and lack of skin resilience. To check skin resilience gently pinch the skin on the back; if it stays pinched together, the puppy is dehydrated. If so, give the pup some warm honey- water. (I boil tap water, measure out 4 oz. and add 1 tsp. of honey -- sugar or corn syrup will do if honey is not available). Puppies must be kept warm and dry the first three weeks, but you may need to add humidity to a dry room to prevent dehydration. Weigh them 2 to 3 times a day for at least the first week and give Nutrical at the first sign of weight loss. Weigh them at least daily for three weeks. They should double their weight in about one week and triple it in about two weeks. But as long as they are gaining you needn't worry too much about this timetable. If there is substantial weight loss (1/2 oz. or more that is not immediately reversed by Nutrical) you may have to supplement or replace Mom's milk with formula such as Esbilac. I use plastic baby bottles, such as Evenflo, and preemie nipples for pups with weak sucking reflexes. As the puppy becomes stronger, you can switch to formula or water nipples. Westies have large mouths for such little pups and seem to have better luck with these than with the small animal nursers usually recommended for small dogs. Be careful not to overfeed, as this will cause diarrhea and make the problem worse. I have found that in most cases of prolonged supplementation it is necessary to mix 4 parts formula with 1 part water to prevent diarhea. Also, remember to burp the puppy and to stimulate elimination with a moistened tissue or cotton ball after feeding him. (Puppies are not able to eliminate on their own for the first week). Dew claws are not mentioned in the breed standard, so they may be removed to prevent later injury or left in place. We do not usually have this done and have not encountered any major problems as a result. If you choose to have them removed, it should be done by your veterinarian on about the third day of life. Please do not traumatize a weak pup with this unnecessary procedure. Westie tails should NEVER be docked. Until the puppies' eyes are opened, watch the eyes for redness and puffiness and call a veterinarian at the first sign of a problem. Eyes and ears open at about two weeks. (Westie eyes are slower to open than some breeds.) As the ears open, the ear flaps will fall down and the pups will spend the next several weeks trying to hold them back up again. Usually they are back up at about 8 - 10 weeks when the pups are done teething (large, heavy or weak ears may take longer and will eventually stand up on their own - taping is rarely necessary). Puppies will usually get up on their feet at about three weeks, but they are capable of moving a surprising amount before that. Make sure they can't climb out of their box before you are ready for them to do so. They have also been known to hold on to Mom as she leaves the box, and escape that way. It is important that they stay in their warm box for the first three weeks. A chilled puppy will die. If you find a cold pup, warm it slowly. (Try holding it under your clothing next to your skin. Do not use a heating pad.) Also, do not try to feed a chilled pup. It cannot utilize the food. A small amount of honey water would not hurt. Again a small dab of nutrical may be a lifesaver. Disposable underpads like those used in hospitals (if Mom will not shred them) or heavy bedding like folded sheets make the best surface in the whelping box for new puppies. Placing a folded sheet or fake lambskin bedding inside a pillow case or zippered pillow protector works well. Sheets can be turned when soiled and underpads can be discarded. Newspaper does not provide enough traction for tiny feet, and light bedding can wrap around a pup and suffocate him. Do not use carpeting since the backing on some types can cause chemical burns to the puppies when it is urinated on. Towels or other terry cloth should also be avoided to prevent snagging tiny claws (which should be cut weekly). Mom will probably not want to leave the pups at all for about a week after delivery. You will have to make her take short walks outside. Get her up and moving a little. Otherwise, keep her confined with the pups - do not give her a chance to carry them about. If she keeps insisting on moving them, there is probably a reason. Perhaps they are too warm. Try to determine the problem and correct it. It may just be her desire for den conditions. Sometimes a simple act such as placing something over the box to serve as a roof may solve the problem. (I often lay a wet towel over the wire mesh of the crate lid allowing just enough space for a heat lamp -- this provides humidity, and warmth as well as the denlike environment). After about one week, mother will want her own box or bed near the pups so she can get away from them, but still keep an eye on them. After about three weeks, she will leave them alone for longer periods and want to be with her humans a bit. By this time, her discharge (which may have been heavy and all sorts of ugly green, red, or black in color at first) should have turned to a faint brownish-pink and have lessened considerably so that it shouldn't be much of a problem when she is with her humans. Note: Any vaginal bleeding lasts more than 7 weeks after whelping should be checked by your veterinarian. Also at about three weeks, the pups will be learning to eliminate away from the place where they sleep. Keep them somewhat confined, but provide a bed area and a potty area. By four weeks, they will want to play and explore. I open up their box and provide a ramp or step for them to use, but set up an exercise area with fencing to keep them somewhat under control. Setting up one small area of newspaper may have them paper train themselves. Also at this age, begin cutting hair from corners of eyes to prevent infections, and on rears for cleanliness. Dry fecal matter is best removed with baby oil or warm soapy water. Many mothers wean naturally, but you can help by offering the pups some canned food or gruel made of softened dry puppy food mixed with warm water. I soak dry puppy food until softened, then smash it with a fork and add warm water, Esbilac or canned milk. Bloody Diarrhea may be an indication of milk intolerance. Slow learners may be more anxious to eat quality canned dog food or baby food. Some breeders use baby cereal or cottage cheese, but I have had more luck just starting with dog food (which also includes the proper balance of nutrients). When the puppies are fairly good at eating their food I gradually decrease Mom's food to dry her up. Withholding food entirely as is often recommended seems cruel and is usually unnecessary. When Mom's milk dries up, she may regurgitate her food for the pups. It won't hurt them, but if it bothers you, keep her away from them for several hours after she eats. The important socialization period lasts from 5 weeks to 12 weeks. Pups must be cuddled, talked to and played with so that they learn to live with humans. They need to explore a variety of new places and things, so that they learn to learn. But they also need to stay and play with Mom and littermates, so that they know how to be dogs. Most problem behaviors can be traced back to pups who were not socialized properly or were taken away from Mom too soon. Also, pups will go through a fear period during the eighth week -- not a good time for the first shots or new homes. Our pups get shots at 6-8 weeks, 10-12 weeks, and if they are still with us at 16 weeks. Consult your veterinarian for his suggested schedule. Also consult him about worming the puppies. We worm at 3, 5, 7, and 9 weeks with Evict or Nemex. Rabies vaccine can be given at 12 weeks and a parvo booster is necessary at 20 weeks. Your final job is to find good homes for your puppies. You chose to bring them into the world. They are your responsibility. Hopefully, by now you love them and want the best for them, and you will love them and worry about them forever. If not, perhaps you should not be a breeder. Screen your buyers. Make sure their new owner knows how to care for them and check-up on them periodically. I provide a sheet of instructions for the new owner explaining how to crate train and feed the puppy. I also supply a list of reading material that I suggest and a list of exercises on how to become pack leader. This is in addition to providing a bag of food and booklets on dog care as well as a sock or soft dog toy that smells like our house. We advise them on spaying/neutering or showing, whichever is applicable, and agree to refund the purchase price or at least a portion of it at any time should problems arise. Our "puppy purchasers" also sign a contract stating that they will never give or sell the puppy to another person without our approval. I want to know where my puppies are and that they are being taken care of properly. I also offer a free grooming session during the first year. This serves two purposes: the puppy is groomed properly, and I get a chance to see the puppy and make sure he/she is alright. Raising puppies is rewarding, but is not for everyone. It is a lot of sleepless nights, hard work, and is not economically profitable if done correctly. But how I love it, and hopefully you will too. Good luck. Note: When you are reasonably sure that your bitch is pregnant, you may wish to write to your dog food company and ask if they offer "puppy packets" for the new owners. Also write to the AKC and ask for at least two litter registration application forms. (You only need one, the extra is in case you make a mistake on the first). When the puppies are one to three weeks old, fill out the litter registration application form and forward it to us along with the AKC fee. We will sign our portion and forward it to the AKC. Now is the time to start filling out pedigrees and constructing any contracts you may wish to give to your puppy purchasers also.
