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3 July 1905 Started to build a storeroom near the kitchen - a long felt want. We've been suffering from congestion of the kitchen for some time and the new house will relieve the situation somewhat. B made a start for Oba at 6 am. Owing to wind, or lack of wind, he appeared to have some difficulty clearing the Point. 4 July 1905 Went in "Goodhope" to have a look around our island - Lathi - Mr B reports having seen, from his ship, quite a number of coconuts on the northern side. We found smooth water these but no anchorage for small vessels there being from 8 to 10 fathoms of water close in shore. B's coconuts have disappeared; not one on show today. And yet he was sure of it which only goes to prove that one can never be sure of anything in this world. After christening the place "Point Seclusion", we went on round to the South Western passage but found it too rough to land so sailed away home. Reading over some Australian history today, I came across a slight discrepancy speaking of the Spanish navigators, de Quiros and Torres. The writer says that the former in 1606 sighted a land to which he gave the name Terra Australis del Espiritu Santo (The Southern Land of the Holy Spirits) believing it to be Australia. It turned out, however, that the land he had discovered was Santo, the largest and most northerly of the Hebrides group. The author goes on to say that de Quiros did not land, his crew having mutinied he was obliged to return home etc. Now Quiros did land, not only landed but remained several months making a sturdy but unsuccessful attempt to form a settlement on the banks of the River Jordan which runs into that bay called by de Quiros "St James and St Phillip's" at the North of Espiritu Santo. The natives of that vicinity make a rude kind of pottery somewhat after the style, it is said, of the Spaniards of the 17th century. These are the only natives in the New Hebrides to attempt pottery which would seem to suggest that they must have learned the art from strangers, these strangers presumably de Quiros' Spaniards. 9 July 1905 An old identity of Lelak, one Nebrua by name, a chief, was shot by some of his former pals this morning. In native circles I'm afraid there'll be more rejoicing than mourning when they learn that the old warrior has gone to the "happy hunting ground". Certainly he was more feared than loved in this district and, if all accounts be true, there was every reason why that should have been so for, it is said, he had taken or had caused to be taken at least a score of lives before his own was taken. Word reached us of another shooting affair, two being bagged this time. The affair took place up at Marigonong's house and was briefly as follows: Very early yesterday morning four men crept up to a house wherein three peacefully slept and coming to the doorway and in an altogether one at a time fashion fired into the room, killing one of the unfortunate sleepers. Then they turned and fled down the path with the remaining two in hot chase, athirst for vengeance. This is just what the evil ones had calculated upon for they had other men posted at a certain spot near the side of the road. As soon as they had reached this spot, by arrangement, they suddenly cut off into the bush, leaving the pursuers at the mercy of the hidden men. Well why go into details; Another volley rang out and another soul sped heavenward. The third man escaped with a singed beard and shaken nerves. Why this cruel and senseless slaughter? Relics of tribal quarrels, blood feuds, vendetta - call them what you will we all agreed that this "eye for an eye" and "tooth for a tooth" business has got to stop. Otherwise there will be but few to carry it on ten years hence. Since we have been here, no less that 15 men have been killed, innocent ones too often than guilty. Just for the sake of a barbarous custom. "Lex talinis" is the only law known to these wild men of the woods. Someday, perchance, they will know another. 12 July 1905 Finished cutting up stuff on the northern side of the road on top of the hill. I replanting millet near the corn-shed, though the seed does not seem too good. The millet that was planted on April 28 is now coming Out in seed, but will scarcely be ready to cut for a week or more yet. 13 July 1905 Fien offers to exchange some land of his, the other side of Sol's for a piece of ours this side. The idea is a good one - for him. He also agrees to find half the labour for running a fence from here to Ridout Inlet along our joint boundary. Right!! 14 July 1905 Packing up and burning off on top. The stuff, being now thoroughly dry, burns well. Three men cleaned up about half an acre today - a very satisfactory performance. 15 July 1905 I wrote out a short story for B, a disguised account of what actually happened out here last year. The facts are briefly these: An old beachcomber, finding he cannot get a wife by fair means, tries advertising. By distorting the facts considerably he succeeded in luring a somewhat romantic but well-disposed shop-girl down. On seeing the man, however, who had represented himself as well-to-do, good looking, amiable etc, she realises the impossibility of marrying such a creature and takes passage back to Sydney, her dreams of waving palms and coral strands, well-kept yachts and sapphire tinted lagoons rudely dispersed; her faith in mankind rudely shattered. 17 July 1905 B came in at noon today. Reports an attempt on the part of some other natives to shoot Trader Joyce. The would-be murderers, having ascertained the exact position of his bed, waited until he sat down and then, within a few feet of their man, fired. The bullet passed within an inch of Mr Joyce's head, through various articles of flirniture and out the other side. 19 July 1905 Clearing land near beach. Very heavily timbered. Noticed native peculiarities today, namely the strength of the big toe and the thickness and toughness of the skull. In the first case, he will more often use his toes for sticking a peg into hard ground than he will with his hands. As for the second, should he wish to break a stick, he may first try it across his knee. Should it prove too tough for that portion of his anatomy, he puts it across his head, gives a vicious jerk and away it goes with a bang. 20 July 1905 Saw a strange caterpillar in the bush today. About an inch in length, covered with fine black hairs which, if they touch the flesh, sting like a nettle and leave a nasty mark behind. 21 July 1905 Planting coconuts on top of the mountain. Good rain falling. Our tank has almost stopped running. Although we use a deal of water since we have been here, we have found one 600 gallon tank sufficient to keep us going, such is the rainfall. 24 July 1905 The schooner "Rosabel" has been dodging about the passage all day. At dusk she had just disappeared around the point - two miles from the anchorage. Sailing, sailing, over the bounding main - at the rate of two miles a day. 25 July 1905 I saw the bird that the natives call "na-mal" this afternoon for the first time. It is identical with the mound raising turkey or mallee hen of Australia. The French warship "Muerthe" passed, bound north at 4pm. Went into Port Olry. No sign of our steamer yet. 26 July 1905 F and I went up to Port Olry early, thinking to learn something from the "Muerthe" of the whereabouts of the Induna. We sailed up in a dinghy in an hour and a half but found that the warship was gone. 1 August 1905 C came in with the "Doris" at 4 pm. Brings word that nothing has been heard of the steamer in Vila as late as the 21st. We hope that nothing has happened to her. C also tells us of a bit of fighting between the Malekulans and the French man-o-wars. Six natives were shot while the French, on their side, had three mariners wounded. 2 August 1905 F went out with Mr B in "Helena-Martin" for a little nautical experience, and, at the same time, to look out for a suitable craft (up to 10 tons) for ourselves. 3 August 1905 Cutting millet - that which was planted on April 28th. Very good sample and does not require as much drying as we anticipated. If spread out on a road, or in the open air, one day's sun is sufficient to dry it, leaving the straw at the same time with that green tinge required by broom manufacturers. 4 August 1905 C went out very hurriedly this morning having got eight recruits aboard. As is usually the case, each recruit had half a dozen friends and relatives trying to dissuade him from going. The reason for this interference with the "liberty of the subject" is that the times being somewhat troublous, the chiefs of the village naturally wish to keep all their followers with them in order that they might more fully resist the attacks of rival villages or make attacks upon them, as the case may be. Weather has been very cool of late. The thermometer registered 64 Fah. last night. It rarely if ever goes below 60 here and rarely goes over 90. 7 August 1905 No sign of the steamer yet. She is now two weeks overdue. I hope nothing has happened to her. In the meantime we are running short of many of the necessities of life. I took an inventory of stuff this morning: Navy biscuit 20 tins (14 recruits to share these); Flour 15 tins; sugar 50 tins; Tinned meat 8; Fish 1; Tea - one halt, cocoa one halt, coffee - none; preserved fruits, currants, raisins and other luxuries - none; Trade tobacco - 4 tins; cut tobacco (for our own use) 6 ozs -hence our anxiety about the steamer. 9 August 1905 Paid "Lelak Castle" a visit this afternoon. Lady E was not in one of her cheerful moods and greeted me at the door with "How dye do! Haven't a bit of anything in the house to eat". On being assured that I had had a noble repast but a few hours past, I was asked to come in and take a seat, which (having walked two miles under a hot sun) I did with alacrity and (in spite of the fact that there was nothing in the house) found my self getting on the outside of a glass of honey-mead and some excellent cake. 10 August 1905 Boys carrying water (in bamboo) from the beach for the household. This is the first time that the tank has given out since we came two years ago. The bamboo (in length about six feet), by having all the partitions knocked into one, make excellent receptacles for water and hold about 5 gallons each. 11 August 1905 "Zhonky", the half caste trading celebrity, came in with his ugly little cutter this evening, closely followed by that other gentleman known as "Edward". We don't love these black and tan traders. They invariably give higher prices for yam and other native foods than the acknowledged local rates, which has a decided tendency to "spoil" those gentle sons of darkness. 12 August 1905 Last night I went out shooting flying foxes. After a considerable time I came back with one "bird", and a belief that the average flying fox is possessed of more cunning than any animal I know: not that they are wild. Half a dozen of them will flutter down into one tree - just out of range. If by any chance they settle within gunshot, they first make sure that there are a few good sturdy limbs between them and their would be destroyers. And what wonderfully made creatures they are: the almost perfect miniature of a fox's head so strangely out of keeping with their delicate gauzy wings and birdlike legs and feet. This strange mixture of bat, bird and fox suckles its young, carrying it under the wing until the grotesque little mite is old enough to mount up on its mothers back. But the most remarkable thing about the flying fox is the smell, and that baffles description. Natives are very fond of the "nagar", as they call him, and are happy so long as they can get one or two of these weird creatures for their supper. They require no preparation. The ever-hungry natives just singes the hair off in the course of roasting on the fire. The inside he leaves (that does for "stuffing") explaining that the bird lives on clean things, fruit, leaves etc. The flesh, when cooked, is fat and tender and juicy enough, but that ambrosial perfume!! The native boy, ever ready to surprise me, one day placed a full flavoured beauty on a plate before me. Being of an inquiring turn of mind I decided to try it, and after two ineffectual attempts, by dint of tightly holding my nose, I managed to store one mouthfull away safely, but I thought that the boy might like the rest for himself and so kindly let him have it. 17 August 1905 "Edward" went out this morning. Wells came in at 2pm, followed shortly afterwards by the French recruiting schooner, "Julia". Wells has bought mail around from Vila. It was left there by the Titus on her way to the Solomon Islands. The papers received are old and contain nothing startling. We are surprised to learn that Russia has declared her intention of fighting to the bitter end. 18 August 1905 Petersen came in at 10 am and the "Julia" went out at noon. Plenty of shipping about just now. The rain keeps off in a marvellous manner - for Santo. 21 August 1905 "Black Game Shooting begins" (according to Letts diary). Some of our local Bushmen must have mistaken the date and they made a start yesterday, bagging four men. The circumstances connected with this little exchange of pleasantries are interesting to the student of "human" nature. It seems that about a year ago some men of the Requin Bay tribe shot one of our local gentry. His friends have been treasuring up this little bit of misconduct ever since, waiting for an opportunity to retaliate. Yesterday it came. Wandering along in the vicinity of the Requin Bay village they observed some men in a yam garden, pulling out pigs. This was the golden opportunity. Where the pigs got in would necessarily need repairing, so, nicely hidden, they waited there and when the four men came along unsuspectingly to patch up the insecure portion of the fence, our heroes quietly picked them off And so it goes on, ad infinitum; always the same never-ending feud, to find its end only when there are no more men to be killed and, at the present rate, that would not be more than fifty years or until the Government steps in. 22 August 1905 Being short of most things, and especially short of meats, tobacco and flours on account of the steamer failing us last month, Dr M and I decided to run down to Turtle Bay (where we expect the Tambo would be working for 2 or 3 days), get what things we were most in need of and return the next day. We left at 8 am. Once round the point, we ran into as much seas as one could wish for, also a very strong head wind, so strong that we had to double reef mainsail and jib. After ten hours battling we reached Turtle Bay, to find the Tambo hadn't come Had supper and a smoke and then turned in. 23 August 1905 Woke up at daylight to see the steamer coming from just where we had come yesterday in search of her. Left Turtle Bay for home at 7 am. We found the seas still running high and a stiff breeze from south east. We ran before it with only ajib for most of the time. Got home before noon. 28 August 1905 Planting cocoa, which arrived per Tambo. Pods are not so large as some got from Vila last year but contain more seeds, the average per pod being 30 against 25 ordinarily. I have recently heard wattle recommended as shade for cocoa, on the grounds that it provide sufficient shade, and by the time that the cocoa-tree has reached maturity, say 5 years, the wattle can be stripped and turned for profit. A pamphlet on the subject says a wattle will give five half cwt of bark (Sydney price 4/- to 10/- per cwt.) But we have reason to believe that wattle once established here would be extraordinarily difficult to eradicate; beside the bark grown in a warm climate would be thinner than that which a cold climate would produce, and not nearly so valuable. If shade be really necessary, the "bois-nior would perhaps, of all trees, to be the best for use. They grow quickly and throw out a nice light spreading foliage; but it is because of the nitrogen contained in its flowers as much as any other reason that the bois-noir is a desirable tree to plant, for nitrogen is essential to the growth of the cocoa-tree. 1 September 1905 Got a good haul of fish down at the fresh water holes. Started back about dark and had some experience getting through the bush, though the horses kept to the track pretty well. 3 September 1905 Planting garden seeds down on the flat: butter beans, parsley, lettuce, cabbage, water melon, pumpkin etc. 4 September 1905 Got a rather embarrassing order from a coloured gentleman names Kreketh. He wants us to send for a hat for his wife. It is "like one Sarah used to have". Of course that in itself is simple enough but then Sarah's particular type of head dress may not be well known in the hat emporiums of Sydney and the wrong thing might be sent. Again there is the chance that, by mentioning the name of Sarah, these devoted shop people may take it for granted that we mean the divine Sara, Madam Bernhardt, and then we would have to take 25 guineas out in pigs. However, by way of apology for our vagueness and to show better what we mean, we have decided to add the following postscript on our usual order: "Re hat: We've sent our order in, (and yet to tell you would be fairer), the sort of hat we want to get is the sort that's worn by Sarah. If the price be high you needn't fret, (these hats are getting rarer), just the sort of hat we want to get is the sort that's worn by Sarah. Be not afraid of tulle or net, (the style must suit the wearer), and the sort of hat we want to get is the sort that's worn by Sarah." 12 September 1905 Found Lucy feeding her 3 day old infant on breadfruit this morning. The mode of preparation is to say the least of it not appeti sing. The breadfruit, being first cooked, is well chewed by the fond mother so that baby may be able to assimilate is the more readily. When baby cries, the fond mother crams some braised breadfruit into the little one's mouth, and yet these babies thrive on such homely fare. Komala, or sweet potato, is another choice article ofjuvenile diet highly approved by native mothers. It is prepared in the same dainty fashion as the breadfruit. 13 September 1905 Two whales (large ones) came into the bay this morning. We could see their great wet bodies glistening like silver - or a reef in the sunlight. Indeed, we mistook them at first for breakers on a newly formed reef It is a fine sight to see these huge creatures at play. They seem to enjoy it so. 14 September 1905 The "Lily", a 15 ton French owned cutter, came in this morning recruiting. He got 3 recruits on the western side of Malekula but had two of his own boat's crew shot at Espingle Bay. 15 September 1905 The weeks go by without rain. Certainly the driest stretch since we came to the New Hebrides. The islands further south are just parched. Here everything is green, yet, and beyond the trifling inconvenience caused by an ample tank, we have not felt the dry weather to any extent. 17 September 1905 A local magnate, Nebrua by name, terminated a very industrious existence early yesterday. He is said to have 11 notches in his club. Last night, according to the cheerful custom of these parts, his wife was duly and most amicably hanged in order that she might accompany her lord and master to the native spirit-land, to grow yams and keep spirit house there for him. The women themselves take it all as a matter of course, and not only offer no resistance but voluntarily take part in the preliminary as well as final ceremony. A narrow path, 50 yards or so in length, is cut at one end of which a noose hangs gracefully from a drooping bough. This noose is rather higher than the average woman's head, but the chivalrous onlookers, in order to save the lady unnecessary trouble, place a block of wood underneath for the interested party to stand upon. Then the ceremony begins. The doomed woman runs up and down until thoroughly exhausted, then mounts the scaffold and slips the noose over her head (an obliging onlooker pushes the block away from under her feet and she joins her husband). 21 September 1905 The new steamer, the "Malaita", ran in here early this morning. She is larger and better fitted out that our old friend "Tambo". 25 September 1905 Dr M came up early this morning. He intends leaving for west Santo this afternoon and asks me to accompany him. Of course I will. 4pm. Made a start. Got to Fort Olry just at dusk, just in time to get through the passage and anchored just as the rose tints were giving place to purple and the stars were rushing out to see who it was. Then we had tea and a smoke and turned in. The night was warm and stuff' and under our close awning we lay tossing and turning, unable to sleep. At 3 o'clock, we rose thankfully, had a hasty breakfast and, by the light of the small moon, steered northwards. Day was breaking when we reached Cape Quiros. The dawn of a glorious, though hot, day. The breeze had died away for the time and we were comfortably steaming along at 5 or 6 miles an hour. Before us lay a stretch of open water 40 miles or so across. We couldn't see Cape Cumberland on the other side but steered for it by compass. One may go across that bay a hundred times without having such smooth water - just a long gentle swell from no'ard and, after a while, a steady fresh wind to equalise matters. As the sun rose higher the day grew hotter. By noon we were sweltering motionlessly on the thwarts; motionlessly because experience taught us that that portion of the seat upon which we sat was very much cooler than the surrounding timber. But still the breeze held good and by 2 pm we had reached Cape Cumberland. When rounding the Cape, we sighted two whales between ourselves and the shore. These huge creatures for some time kept along parallel to us, spurting, turning somersaults and behaving generally in a very large manner but, at last, having sated themselves with their elephantine sport, they made for the open sea much to our satisfaction. Shortly afterwards, we ran into a place called Wunapath, where we pitched our nautical tent for the night. The night turned out blustery and wild and we had to batten down that awning many times before morning. The native boat's crew wisely slept ashore. Next morning, the Doctor had a six or eight mile constitutional before breakfast. He accompanied some of the local gentry up to the village which they assured him was not far. I stopped behind and acquired merit - and incidentally an appetite - by having a swim in the fresh water. Shortly after breakfast we pulled up our mud-hook and set sail for Nogugu, 20 miles distant. During the comparatively short run, we had the somewhat novel experience of getting the wind from every quarter of the compass. On this coast the country is just a continuation of hill and ravine and, at times, the wind comes whirling down the valleys with cyclonic suddenness and force and "woe to the sailing man who stands not by sheets and halyards here". We reached Noguru early in the afternoon and I had time to have a look around. A desolate place, this West Coast, enjoying too, at present, quite a respectable drought. There is no wealth of tropical foliage here to shade the ground as on the East. The barren lofty mountains look hot and parched and altogether uninviting. The sands of the beaches are black and hot like the cinders from some great fire. Everywhere it is ovenlike. On the sides of the mountains, fires were raging through bamboo forest and cane grass and hot embers filled the air. In the valleys, however, are running streams, clear and cool, the only thing which could make life endurable on this parched up strip of volcanic coast. Next morning, I went up to have a look at the "school", a very fine wooden building attended daily by about 200 Christian natives. To facilitate the rather unnecessary practice of hand shaking, a custom only too prevalent throughout the group, the villagers face into line as if on parade; and their port arms in figuration. Should the bashful stranger attempt to escape the honour by a flank movement, he is surrounded by the enemy and detained until he has paid for his ransom by shaking 240 grimy hands. After breakfast, I mounted the mission horse "Billy" and, accompanied by Lopego and Nonot and some others, I rode up to have a look at the Taro gardens, a regular object lesson too, in the art of irrigation. From thence we journeyed to the local "Paddy's Market"; a strip of neutral territory at the foot of the mountain where the bush tribes meet the "school" people for the purpose of exchanging their wares (chiefly those earthenware pots for which they are famous) for tobacco, pipes and other luxuries. By mutual arrangement, as a guarantee of friendliness, before a general meeting can take place, the head men of either party meet in conference. All being well, it is customary for a chief to open the proceedings with a purchase. On this occasion, I was the privileged person and "gave them a start". Then the bartering began and fast, and apparently flirious, was the bidding, reminding one more of a corroboree that a sale. This bush natives are a wild looking lot and, some of them, I was told, had never seen a horse until they saw old Billy that day. Certainly they gave the peacefully disposed old fellow a wide berth, evidently expecting him, at any moment, to break his moorings and club them with his hooves. Once he was inconsiderate enough to snort, causing a stampede of biped by so doing. 27 September 1905 Next day, Saturday, we proceeded down the coast as far as Tasmate, calling at the villages of Wunsuli and Versalia en route at both of which places the doctor held services and gave encouraging address to a goodly number of natives. At Versalia, we were treated by a late heathen chief to a very fine exhibition of drum beating. These drums, some of which were 8 feet long and 5 deep, are regular sound marvels and must have been hollowed out at the expense of much time and patience, the slit at the top being only 3 or 4 inches wide. Of the various calls, and there are many, the "call to arms" was to us the most interesting. It is both fierce and inspiring and, as the old chief rolled out his weird tattoo, his rugged kindly face became grave and stern and the fine dark eyes flashed defiance. In those moments, the Christian chief was again the heathen "Moli", calling his warriors to battle. Again he could hear the twang of the bow strings and the whizz of arrows speeding through the air. His past wild life rose up before him through the mist of years and, maybe, for the time, he felt a yearning for yet another savage war dance and a longing to grip once more his spear and his club. But he had done with those things now and, as he finished beating the great drum, the fierce light faded from the swarthy face and, for the moment, he seemed almost ashamed to have let himself be carried away by his own savage emotions. Reaching Tasmate later in the afternoon of the same day, we were met on the beach by a crowd of natives and escorted by them to a delightfully cool and clean little house in their village where we were treated right royally, the kind hearted villagers showering blessings on my head in the shape of pork and yam, bananas and taro and even sacrificing on the altar of their devotion, the most antiquated duck the village possessed. The chief characteristic of Tasmate, like Nogugu, we found to be great mountains, black beaches, kind-hearted natives, much sun and sand and many dogs, with the inevitable accompaniment, fleas. |
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