Saint Patrick's Day in Savannah

J. C. & Cairenn Sullivan

A few years had passed since we last visited Savannah. The occasion in 1995 was their Irish Cultural Festival, now in its tenth year. We went at that time to witness the event that was begun so those of Irish descent in Savannah could show their children there is more to being Irish than being in a slight state of inebriation and wearing a green plastic hat That was then, this was now ….this time we were going to be a part of the green plastic crowd!

The major cities of America, Chicago, New York, Philadelphia, Cleveland, etc., all come to mind when one thinks about being Irish in America. But, the American south? The community here has a very long tradition of honoring Saint Patrick. In his book, The Days We've Celebrated, the late William L. Fogarty discovered the first official invitation to a 'public observance' was found in the 1813 minutes of the Hibernian Society of Savannah

The closest we were able to obtain a room was at the Days Inn, Oglethorpe Mall. We took a Chatham Area Regional Transit (CHART) bus downtown on the 16^th to witness the service honoring Sgt William Jasper, an Irish American Revolutionary hero who died defending Savannah against the British. The ceremony was very colorful, with speeches from military leaders being the highlight. The pipe band from the Irish Air Force, Dublin, Ireland, was present for the ceremony. Savannah also has a large military presence, Fort Stewart and Hunter Air Force Base are right are outside town. One can also visit the museum of the World War Two’s mighty 8^th US Air Force.

Belonging to the Ancient Order of Hibernians (AOH), a national Irish-Catholic fraternity, has definite advantages. We linked up with our friends, Don & Patti Fallin, who we had initially met at a Hibernian Convention in Louisville, Kentucky. Don is a Parade Marshal and is part of the hierarchy of Savannah's Irish community. We enjoyed a reception at the Knights of Columbus Hall (Savannah has about eleven Catholic churches) afterwards and were also invited to a private party at the Hilton. ‘Twas here I got my first taste of Midleton Irish whiskey.

Midleton comes in a wooden box and allegedly one cannot procure it in this country. One sip of it is enough to establish it as the finest and smoothest to have ever cross this Irish palate! I’m fortunate to have obtained a bottle this year. My nephew Sean Sullivan, a champion Irish stepdancer with the O’Hare School, brought me one from Shannon’s duty-free this year ($75.00 US). At that rate it’s going to be a very, very special occasion when it’s opened! Like maybe this Monday. Or Tuesday.

Mass was celebrated early on Saint Patrick's Day - 8:30 a.m. - at the Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist. Afterwards, Savannah's Irish-born Bishop J. Kevin Boland joined the outdoor celebration and struck up a conversation with some Irish lads from County Cork, the band Natural Gas. The lads, together with the Bishop, sang On the Banks Of My Own Lovely Lee. As reported in the Savannah Morning News, Tim O'Riordan said, "Whenever Cork people meet away from home that's the song we sing. It puts some strength into the soul." Boland, in Savannah for forty years, said, "How can you miss home with something like this? We are at home. All the Irish are at home in Savannah." I will add amen and alleluia to that!

We didn’t get to the early Mass. Saint Patrick's Day began for us with bus ride from the Oglethorpe Mall downtown. For a buck each way, the CHART moved busses from the Mall on a continual basis. Although the line was very long, they did a commendable job of moving the large crowd. Besides, it’s fun to talk to those around you who are there for the fun.

While traveling on the bus, I used my cell phone to call a buddy in Cleveland. “What’s the temperature, Jerry?”, I asked. Jerry, who hosts the Jerry Quinn Irish Radio Show in Cleveland (WCLV, 1240 am), said the wind chill was about 30 below. “What are you talking about? The sun is shining and the temperature is close to 70 degrees!,” I said.. “Where are you calling me from,” he asked. When I said I was in Savannah, Georgia he said, “Don’t rub it in!”

Once we arrived downtown we began to walk towards the marshaling area for the early 10:30 a.m. start. We decided to park ourselves and wait for the AOH and the Ladies AOH to come by us. It wasn't long before they appeared and we joined them for the parade. What a great experience it was - all this and a temperature in the 70s!

The streets of Savannah, being old, are also narrow, affording we marchers the opportunity to speak to the parade watchers without shouting. The crowd is lively and spirited, in town specifically for the parade. Official estimates later put it at 400-500,000. We had fun placing beads around the necks of small children, with mom & dad's permission, of course.

The young ladies of Savannah make a great sport of smooching parade marchers, especially the military (I should have been so lucky in my Army days). You see them on the sidelines, lipstick in hand, reapplying the product as they reconnoiter their target. Then, like hawks circling field mice, they spring into action and swoop down on the unsuspecting, planting a perfect red lip tattoo on a surprised cheek. It was charming to see a tough-looking Army Ranger Platoon Leader hard-pressed to stifle a bemused smile.

At the end of the parade we went again to the K of C Hall where a rock and roll band was just setting up. One of their first tunes was the old hit by Jay and the Americans, This Magic Moment. I thought it aptly described Saint Patrick's Day everywhere but it was, indeed, a magical day in the warm climes of Savannah on March 17^th.

Inside the K of C Hall we partook of refreshments being offered and chatted with many people, including Savannah oncologist Dr. Jim Burke. His dad, also Dr. Jim, and mother, originally from Chicago, are now retired in Florida and were staying in town with son Jim. Much later, looking out the window, we were surprised to see the parade still going by. We estimate it was about four and a half hours long, the largest we've ever witnessed.

We had a return token on CHART and decided to take the return bus to Oglethorpe Mall, arriving back early evening. Our intent was to catch a little R & R and go back downtown but, alas, the spirit was willing but the flesh…we didn't get back downtown that evening.

The town of Savannah knows how to promote itself. The Savannah Morning News, for example, dedicated at least four and one-half pages to Saint Patrick's Day, two of which were full color photos. As well they should - the estimated revenue brought into the city by this event is 23 million buckaroos.

Back home in northeast Ohio we have had an epiphany. We are leading the movement to host the Saint Patrick’s Day celebration in the summertime! Maybe we, too, can bring in 400,000 party-goers!