Turkish Coat for a Venetian Wedding Dress

Portrait of a Lady, 1555, Titian, National Gallery of Art Washington DC

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A Diary

Commenced 27 April 2007

I have been hoarding the fabric for this coat for years, waiting for an appropriate occasion to make it.  If my wedding isn't special enough I don't know what is.

the dress I will be married in.

As this garment seems to be intended for festive occasions like carnivale and for a casual around the house dressing robe, I feel it is entirely appropriate for my wedding.  Think about it.

"Festa in Maschera", 1595, found on page 603 of "Il  Rinascimento a Venezia : e la pittura del Nord ai tempi di Bellini,  Durer, Tiziano"  Courtesy of Jennifer Thompson

The materials I have chosen for this coat are a heavy tapestry weave fabric for the outer, and a silk taffeta in an exotic strip for the lining.  I had coveted the outer fabric for ages, then it came on special so I bought as much as I could, which wasn't a lot.  That was some years ago now. The lining was purchased at a ridiculously reduced price from memory, reduced to $10au pm from $60 au pm, also some years back with another project in mind.  Things change.  The embellishments were also purchased some years back for no specific purpose at the time but I knew that some thing would present itself when the time was right.  

Buttons and tuffting for embelishment

Tonight I washed the silk lining so that I can iron it and begin cutting soon.  I have 7 weeks until the wedding (you never count the last week).  

the colours aren't quite true, but these are the two types of roses I want for the day.

19 May 2007

I still haven't cut the fabric let alone iron it.  I decided foolishly to make buttons for it.  I wont get them all done for the wedding. but that's Ok.  I have been busy with all the other organisation for the wedding.  I hope to at least get the lining ironed this weekend.

28 May 2007

I cut the fabric, finally.  When I bought the outer fabric I bought extra to make a tote bag.  I am so glad I did.  Because of the patterning of the fabric it took more than I had accounted for. So that extra was needed.  I still have enough to make a smaller than planned bag, but will have to think about this for a while.

The sleeves are longer that I had originally planed on because I wanted the maximum from the pattern of the fabric.

The other thing that has taken up more fabric is my determination to have all the gores with the pattern running the same way.  This will work for the front four gores, but alas not the back.  I didn't have enough to get them all the same.  This is, however, a modern aesthetic.  Historically there wasn't the same considerations made.  These materials were expensive and used to the fullest.  If that meant some of the minor details being upside down, so be it.

30 May 2007

Everything over locked.  Not to put it all together.

01 June 2007

It's finally coming together.  The upside down panels are hardly noticeable.  I will probably be the only person to ever notice it.

Applying the tufting to the arms.

02 June 2007

I have it all in one piece finally.  The tufting on the sleeves looks really good.

Coat in one piece.  The lining is in and the tufting has been applied to the arms.
Tufting applied to the hem.  The lining is pined into place so the hemming can be finished.
The hemming is completed and pins mark where the embellishment buttons will go.
03 June 2007 A start on the buttons.  Pins indicate where they will go.  These are for aesthetics only.
05 June 2007    All of the ornamental buttons are in along the opening and I have enough to decorate the sleeves too.  l have the hand made fastening buttons in also.   I only have 17 of these done so far.  The rest will have to wait until after the wedding I fear.  I need another 5 to ensure full closure at the front. I have started the sleeve embellishment, and hope to finish that off tomorrow.
06 June 2007 The hand made buttons have been removed.  They did nothing for the outfit and are being replaced with pearl buttons.
07 June 2007 It's finished.  I love it.   Stunning! I don't often say that about my work.

With the exception of the pearl button fastenings, everything for this coat was from my stash.  I did have pearls in my stash, but decided as our local bead shop was having a sale, I could buy a nice long strand in the exact size and colour I wanted for no more than $3.

I am so thrilled with the results.  The hand made buttons that were removed will be used on something else later.  I plan on making a full Turkish ensemble, so I envisage those buttons being used there some how.  Especially after having taken possession of a new book, "Ipek: The Crescent & the Rose: Imperial Ottoman Silks and Velvets (Hardcover)"  There are details in that book that I had previously never been about to make out.  *Sigh*

Back to the Coat....  

I think it is all going to look absolutely stunning on the day.  

And it did!

Celebrating the marriage of Deborah and Michael, under a blue moon.

30 June 2007

Photo courtesy of Paul May.

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