by Michelle Brown
Onsen is perhaps a paradox on its surface. Is it possible to have a polite conversation with strangers while soaking au naturel? Moreover, how did this custom come to exist in a culture where day-to-day interactions are a veritable minefield of social gaffes?
In spite of this, or perhaps because of it, onsen has become a popular custom in Japan. Onsen is one of the few occasions that Japanese have a chance to truly relax. I had thought that onsen was an activity only for the older generation, but all the young Japanese that I know enjoy the experience as well.
My first onsen experience took me off guard. I was traveling in Fukushima prefecture with two Japanese friends. The nearby mountains were covered with a fine mist of rain which put the kibosh on our sightseeing plans. "Let's go to an onsen," one of them suggested. The other readily agreed without question.
For myself, there was only hesitation. I already felt like a monster next to the two lithe creatures beside me. Was it really necessary to expose my porridge-white, untoned, extra-tall body? Urged by my friends, I agreed to go.
The first few moments of nakedness were excruciatingly awkward, but once I slipped into the sublime warmth of the water, all inhibitions melted away.
My little bubble of comfort was shattered, however, when a large group of obachan descended on the bath. I felt that all eyes were on me. The apparent leader of this group of women unleashed a torrent of Japanese in my general direction, none of which I understood.
Helpless, and feeling like I had just been scolded, I turned to my friend. "What did she say ... ?" I whispered, "Does she want me to leave?"
"She said that you are young and beautiful," replied my friend with a smile, "and she hopes that the water will make her young an beautiful too."