February 1, 1999, Monday, sunny, 7-20C
[07:12 @ Kanha Jungle Lodge]
I
did get up early enough to go with Pradeep and Craig into the park, but I
declined just before they left, partly due to Pradeep’s imperious way of
ordering me around, and partly because of my real preference to spend my time
with Anne, Faiyaz, Chris and Kim instead, before Kim leaves for Bandhavgarh
later in the morning and before I leave for Delhi tomorrow.
Faiyaz
made his morning’s appearance in a state of dejection. Last night, he made two requests of Pradeep,
one, for Tiger Trust to go outreach with me to the 178 Buffer Zone villages,
and two, that he be put on outreach duty as Tiger Trust operative. Pradeep rejected both flatly.
Well,
he has no power to order me, and I will do it.
[22:14] At about 07:40, I
knocked on Kim’s door to wake her for a last coffee before she leaves for
Bandhavgarh. She rose at once, but took
about 45 minutes to do her morning chores and to pack for her relocation to
Bandhavgarh later in the morning. When
she did knock on my door, she was fresh, with hair damp. She sat on my bed and I on my computer
chair. We’ve known each other since
Bear Referendum ’96, and it’s only in these last few days I’ve got to know her
personally. But now, too soon, she is
being whisked away. But it’s her
choice. Were it Anne that Pradeep had
named to move to Bandhavgarh, I would have put a stop to that. Kim and I both know that Kim would rather
work with tourists than villagers. Her
own profession in Vancouver is tourism, so I can understand it. It just means that if and when I have to
choose between Anne and her as my assistant, I would choose Anne without a
moment’s hesitation. This means that
come March, when it comes to switching them between Kanha and Bandhavgarh
according to Pradeep’s plan, I may have to take action to retain Anne with me
unless I go to Bandhavgarh as well on March 1 which, given our outreach plan at
Kanha, is highly unlikely. These are
just my thoughts. I didn’t voice them
with Kim. But I think she already
knows. Still, we have a personal
rapport that underlies everything, and my choice of Anne over Kim is purely
professional, although I like Anne very much too. I will miss Kim, that is for sure.
And
then, the Tata Sumo (Indian-made diesel jeep used on highways, but not in tiger
reserves which bar diesel vehicles) arrived, and she and Janice were whisked
away.
In
the meeting with Faiyaz, Anne and Chris, I told Faiyaz that I will talk to
Pradeep about the outreach program myself.
His face wore a big question mark of uncertainty in my success. I also talked about the possibility of
having them in Delhi for the St. Valentine’s Day Love-the-Tiger Walk. The stumbling block is of course time and
money. The plane fare one way is US$135,
US$270 return, plus overland Rs10 per km, return 650 km, or Rs6500, or
US$160. All told US$430 or
CDN$600+. Too expensive for too little. Also, re-experiencing in my mind the
dangerous highway and reckless driving especially in Maharashtra, it’s not
worth it. The alternative is a 50-hour
return trip by rail. Nah, forget it.
Pradeep
spent the rest of the day mostly with Craig and Tarun. In the afternoon Faiyaz, Anne, Chris and I
went for a walk through the sal forest to the river less than a kilometer
behind the Jungle Lodge grounds. It is
a picturesque river about ten meters wide which flows serenely through a jumble
of exposed rocks.
We
walked downstream for a change. After
only about 100 meters, Faiyaz pointed to a tree stump on the other side of the
river. “Look over there. More deforestation of the park at work. If you sit here for long enough, you’ll see
cows.”
“Is that the park over
there?” Anne looked at the forested bank across the river where the tree stump
stood like a sore thumb.
“Yes,”
answered Faiyaz. “Core Area over there,
Buffer Zone here. Tiger and deer over
there, people and cattle here.
Wilderness over there, so-called civilization here. Nature over there, artificial things here.”
“We’ve
got to do something about the problem.
Let’s talk about it at length later,” I said.
We
sat down on the rocks at a particular picturesque bend. Anne pointed into the water at her
feet. “Look, a prawn.”
Faiyaz
went over and looked. “It’s a
crayfish. A big one.”
“Is
it natural or artificial?” Raminothna asked them.
“Is this a trick question? Of course it’s natural,” said Anne,
“Watch
it, people. Anthony’s up to something,
as usual,” said Chris.
“Including
its cells?” Raminothna asked further.
“Of
course, each and every one,” answered Anne.
Not only I, but Anne too, tend to say “of course” to Raminothna a lot.
“And
its shell?”
“Yes. No shell, no crayfish.”
“See
that termite mound over there near the stump?”
“Yes,
I see it.”
“Is
it natural or artificial?”
“It
is natural.”
“The
whole mound?”
“Yes.”
“Including
the termites inside?”
“Yes.”
“And
the shell?”
“Yes.”
“A tribe of Langur (“lang-GOOR”)
monkeys. Natural or artificial?”
“Natural.”
“And
a tribe of humans. Natural or
artificial?”
“I think I know what you’re driving at,” said
Faiyaz.
“Me
too,” said Chris.
“What
he is driving at,” said Anne, “is that a human society is as natural as a
termite society, and that a human village, or a high tech city for that matter,
is as natural as a termite mound.”
“So,
even your camera, or a Gypsy, is an object of nature?” asked Faiyaz.
“Essentially
speaking, everything in the Universe is natural, even the ‘artificial’,
including this camera, yes. Ultimately,
the entire Universe is a single natural object,” said Raminothna.