SPORT AT BARINGO AND JOURNEY
COASTWARD.
AT the end of January, Makatubu turned up from Kamasia. He
brought, however, considerably less food than was needed for a prolonged stay at Baringo
and a return through the Masai country. As my wound was now quite healed I would have
resumed our march at once; but I felt I was in honour bound not to desert the few old
traders left by Jumba. These were beginning to be anxious about his non–appearance,
as all sorts of rumours were in the air about fearful massacres and fights. Under the
circumstances I could do no other than wait some time, even though our stores and supplies
were getting perilously near an end.
In order to fill up the time there, I resolved to explore the country to the north of
Baringo, and, if possible, indulge [318] in a bit of sport for its own sake, all my previous deeds in that line
having been prompted more by necessity than by any craving for the luxury of adventure.
On making my arrangements we were somewhat taken aback by discovering that no guide
could be got to lead us to the place required, as no meat is allowed to be touched, except
elephant, buffalo, and fish, between the period at which the water is let into their
fields and the formation of the heads of grain. Any one known to touch antelope or zebra
during that time is at once excommunicated and driven as an infected being from the
village. How these strange ideas have arisen it would be difficult to say, as they do not
belong to their brethren, the Masai, neither are they held by their neighbours, the
Wa–kamasia. Doubtless, some disaster happened to the crops on the occasion of a
zebra–hunt, and was ascribed to the fact that they did kill and cat that animal while
the grain was springing. From such trivial causes many otherwise inexplicable phenomena of
negro life have without a doubt arisen, and do not require the very profound and subtle
explanations generally attempted.
We at last got a young man to guide us, one who, having no relations and no riches, was
careless whether he was excommunicated or no, so long as he was assured of a handsome
reward and protection from violence. This matter settled, we set off, going east to the
base of the Lykipia mountains. We then ascended three steps, which were clearly formed by
as many lines of fault running parallel to the principal direction of the escarpment. The
grass had been only recently burnt off, leaving the country under a perfectly black pall,
unrelieved by green or yellow. To add to the desolate aspect of the landscape and the
horrors of the march, the entire country was like one continuous irregular mound of
angular lava fragments, which made the march infinitely painful and harassing. After a
killing tramp of six hours we reached an upper step with a more fertile and flat surface,
on which we found great numbers of game and plenty of water. As we had determined to live
entirely by the chase, no food had been brought; but in half an hour two zebras and one
giraffe fell to my gun, and their bones were soon ornamenting the environs of our camp.
Next morning, on leaving camp, we spied great numbers of buffalo. I had, however,
learned caution in dealing with these brutes, and though revenge for my recent rough
handling appeared sweet, I cleared the way at a safe distance by a shot. [319] Further on I had to do
the same with a rhinoceros, which looked defiant, and paid with its life in consequence.
Its companion soon followed suit with a ball through the heart, and then a third falling
in my way, I dropped it apparently dead. Brahim was speedily upon it, and in a twinkling
his knife had performed its deadly work. But just as its blood began to flow in a crimson
torrent, we were all astonished by seeing it make a sudden spurt. The next moment Brahim
was pitched from the head of the wounded animal, and we were all scattered. Getting on to
its feet, the rhinoceros furiously charged us with its throat completely cut. Of course it
did not go far, as its life–tide was gushing forth, and in a few minutes it once more
succumbed. The brute had only been stunned by my ball, and had come to its senses too late
to avert Brahim’s sanguinary incision. These three rhinoceroses were shot within half
an hour, and at the same moment we could see three enormous herds of buffalo, together
with zebra, giraffe, and antelope.
We now ascended another but more formidable step, leading to the tipper plateau. On
reaching the top of this step we had before us a marvellously desolate and dreary prospect
–a narrow, stony valley, cut up by numerous mullahs, without a green thing to be
seen, and backed to the cast by another and final step to the top of the table–land
(for, be it noted, the plateau escarpment, which further south rises in an almost unbroken
precipice, is here broken up by a series of faults, producing an effect something like
colossal steps). In this desolate place I noticed an antelope, though I failed to shoot
it. It was unlike any I had yet seen, but I am now inclined to think it was the lesser
kudu. Before camping we saw some eland and beisa antelope.
We rejoiced in a storm of thunder and rain during the night; but happily it cleared up
shortly after sunrise, and we were enabled to proceed. For three hours we tramped on
painfully over stony ground, and crossed with difficulty these extremely deep, dry gorges.
About ten I stalked an old buffalo bull, and brought it down; but I was particularly
careful not to go up to it till I was perfectly certain I would not go up in any other
sense. The horns, though not nearly so long from curve to curve as many, were certainly
the most massive and rugged of any I had yet set eyes on, even beating my Kimangelia pair.
Like the animal from which the latter were taken, he was an old solitary bull, a fact
which the lions had taken advantage of to relieve him of his caudal appendage. [320]
A hundred yards from the scene of this adventure I shot a second
buffalo, and ill following it up, I got a startling warning that I had better be cautious.
I nearly ran slapdash on to the horns of the vindictive animal before I knew what I was
about, as I had lily eyes intently fixed on another buffalo running away ahead, which I
thought was the one I had just wounded.
After midday we reached a spring in a gorge of the mountain, and camped. It seemed,
however, that we were going to be compelled to return without even seeing an elephant, and
it was only too clear that my guide knew no more of the surrounding country than I did.
After refreshing myself with some zebra–steak, I started off with Brahim and Bedu�
to have one last look round, and find, if possible some more likely place for the elephant
than where we were. Following a game–path first north, then east, over the range of
hills we had been traversing all day, we reached the top, to find yet another valley or
hollow stepbacked by a third line of mountains. The scene was not quite so desolate as the
one we had just left, yet it did not promise elephants. Not to be beat, however, I, though
somewhat footsore, resolved to ascend the mountain ill front.
Proceeding to cross the valley, I was suddenly arrested by Brahim drawing my attention
to what he called a rhinoceros. On examination I was at no loss to discover that the
animal before me was a real indisputable elephant. All opportunity was thus at last
afforded me of hunting this noble brute. Circumstances, however, were sadly against me
from the absence of cover, there being no bushes or trees ill the elephant’s
immediate vicinity. Noting, however, that it stood with head towards the wind, and
therefore in a favourable position for stalking, I commenced that exciting game. Getting
fairly in its rear, and also into a hollow, we were able to advance pretty quickly without
being perceived. On emerging, however, from the depression within fifty yards of the
elephant, the real difficulties commenced. It was leisurely feeding up the wind, though
now and then turning half round to crop the bushes. On these occasions it was necessary to
clap close to the earth to escape detection, and then jump up and make a short rush
forward, as the animal moved its head back, to subside once more behind a bushy tuft the
moment it showed symptoms of looking round. My sensations, however piquant, could hardly
be described as comfortable in finding myself in an open desert within a few yards of the
Goliath of animals, knowing [321] that if it should turn quite round nothing could save us from being
discovered.
At last I found myself within ten yards, and concluded that I had got near enough.
Getting with some trepidation on to one knee, I waited till the great hulk swung round
nearly, though not quite, at right angles to me. The next moment I fired with my
8–bore, causing it to grunt out as the ball went crashing into its body.
Unfortunately the ball penetrated diagonally, causing it just to miss the heart. As the
elephant went off at a quick trot, I gave it the contents of the second barrel, though, of
course, at a disadvantage. Then I seized the Express, both barrels of which I fired. On
the fourth shot we were fearfully taken aback by the elephant trumpeting out, hauling
round, and coming down at full speed straight for us. Giving myself up as a lost man, I
had, however, sufficient presence of mind to fall down behind a slight tussock of grass,
and simultaneously with stern and penetrating tones to order my companions to do the same,
for they were preparing to rush off at once, which would have brought them to a speedy
death. Brahim pushed the 8–bore to –lie with cartridges ill, ])lit unlocked.
Rectifying this dangerous mistake, I wriggled myself into a proper position to fire when
the crisis came, and held the, gun ready.
My sensations can be better imagined than described on seeing the monster coming along
at a terrific rate, apparently bent on our destruction. We seemed to be choking with the
excitement as we almost counted each footstep. I had to exercise all my powers of control
to prevent myself from firing my gull prematurely through my convulsive clutching of the
weapon. We were clearly in for a life–and–death fight, in which the odds were
vastly against us. We knew that our balls would have no chance of dropping the elephant,
even at close quarters, and, sadly wounded as it already was, we could hardly hope to turn
it. As it approached, however, a ray of hope gleamed fitfully across lily mind. It did not
seem to see us, and appeared rather to be looking for the enemy than charging at a
definite object–otherwise, it would probably have been screaming with trunk uplifted.
But while this was true, there was, nevertheless, the awful fact that it was coming dead
for our lair, and if we had not already been discovered, we must inevitably soon be so. We
must still fight for life! The space between us was lessening with horrible rapidity. My
eyes were almost [322] blinded by the profuse perspiration; yet I was conscious of becoming more
collected as the danger became greater.
I was now tortured chiefly by the question, "Shall I fire, or shall I wait?"
Nearer and nearer it came! More and more it loomed fate–like in my vision! Fifty
yards–thirty yards–twenty–and still it held a straight line, pledged to our
destruction I My men implored me to fire. My only reply was a kick to be quiet. My gun was
at my shoulder, and my eye glanced along the barrel. The elephant had reached within ten
yards. I must fire. But just as I was on the point of pressing the trigger, the elephant
swerved a little to one side. Thank God! It had not seen us, and we were saved! As it
passed close to us I was about to fire, when a hand clutched my leg, and a voice,
terror–laden, prayed me to desist, an injunction I was by no means loth to attend to,
as, even in the first moment of my relief, I began to feel rather limp and shaky. Our
suspense had been terrible. Fortunately, also, it had been brief–for the whole period
between my first shot and the passing of the elephant would hardly be two minutes.
The wounded elephant now disappeared in a mullah. Pulling ourselves together
with a desperate effort of will, we worked away to get once more if possible to close
quarters. I did not want to lose my prize, for of course I was confident, as people
usually are on such occasions, that I had fatally wounded the elephant, and that it must
speedily fall. Before we reached the mullah the hunted animal had left it, and
there was nothing for us but to follow pell–mell, tripping over stones, falling into
holes, and tearing our clothes among the thorns. But we reeked not of these mishaps as,
with gasping breath and eyes eagerly fixed on our game, we resolutely pressed on.
At first it led the way up the valley; then it struck up the face of the eastern hills.
Seeing this we tried to cut off its course; but we only got to the top to find ourselves
exhausted, and the elephant swinging on in front, though much slower than before, as if
its strength was giving way. This sign encouraged us; only I began to have terribly
scalded and sore feet from having put on a pair of very heavy new boots, and we had now
been on the tramp for ten hours over the most harassing road conceivable. I had therefore
to lot Brahim and Bedu� follow up, while I came on more at leisure. The elephant was now
walking, but at a quick, steady pace, which kept them at a trot. There [323] was still no cover to
run alongside of, or the game would have been speedily ours, and all that we could do was
to follow up in the rear till trees were reached. We crossed one step, and then up another
height, to find another valley and another range of hills. Still the brute held on, and I
finally lost sight of both the hunted and the hunters.
Presently the sun set, and I was in the unenviable position of being ten miles from
camp, without a weapon, in a country where lions were numerous. As darkness rapidly
approached I was beginning to feel eerie and somewhat put out, when I heard a
rifle–shot ringing from the distant brake. I concluded that the elephant had received
its quietus There seemed, however, to be no chance of my meeting my men, and I did not
know what to do. I resolved at last to wait and see if they would not turn up. Soon, to my
great joy and relief, I saw two figures appearing in the fast deepening gloom. Their news
was that they had fired at the elephant again at close quarters, but, owing to the
darkness, had been compelled to give up the chase.
With no better guide than the stars, and with terribly sore feet, we commenced our
return over hill and dale. We got knocked about sadly in the darkness. So rough was the
ground, that but for the light of the moon, which now rose, we should have been compelled
to get up a tree, and remain there till the morning. Herds of buffaloes could be seen
moving in dark battalions across the valley, or could be heard thundering away through the
bush on their scenting us. Solitary rhinoceroses loomed, demon–like, in the distance,
and on several occasions the roaring of lions mingled with the indignant whistling bark of
the zebra. After a weary struggle we stumbled back into camp, unspeakably thankful that we
had got there safe. We had been on our feet without intermission for fifteen hours.
Next morning I resolved to move up to the farthest point of the previous day, in the
hope of tracing the wounded elephant, and because Brahim had seen three more that night.
On the way I shot a rhinoceros, and about mid–day reached a picturesque gorge,
through which ran a stream of water rising in a series of warm springs. As I was somewhat
done up with my former exertions, I resolved not to go out hunting, but sent Bedu� and a
party to take up the trail of the previous night, as I was confident it could not have
gone far from where we left it. Shortly after they had gone, a man came running back in
breathless haste, [324] throwing us into excitement by the news that some elephants were close at
hand. This was indeed a summons to battle which I could not ignore. Speedily equipping
myself, therefore, with the necessary instruments of destruction, I hurried out.
We had not gone far before three elephants were pointed out to us–a male, a
female, and a young one. I could not hut admire the stately animals as, with a dignified,
self–satisfied air, they leisurely marched on–the female leading the way, and
the young scion of the noble race following behind. Finding they were likely to get our
wind, I moved lower down, but, unfortunately, the men who had first gone out remained
behind, as I could not communicate with them. The consequence was that, just as the
elephants were coming into good position and I was getting close to them the men were
scented. The female trumpeted, and at first bore straight down in our direction, as if she
had scented us, and was about to punish us for our temerity. I sank on one knee behind a
bush in breathless expectancy, but, before we were reached, the female again trumpeted and
turned at right–angles, presenting a capital shot, though I could not take advantage
of it. Before I could secure a more favourable position they ran into the dense bush, and
to fire was out of the question.
We soon lost sight of the animals, but contrived
to keep the trail. In half an hour we found ourselves getting once more to close quarters
in the bush, and we had to proceed with every precaution. At last we made out from the
sounds that they had got over their scare and were quietly feeding. Though they were
within a few yards we could not see them; but finding them coming down upon us, we had to
scuttle out of the way. ]Punning round some bushes, I got a good sight of one of them
three yards off. At the same moment I fired, and glided close into a bush to escape
detection. At first, with outspread ears the elephant came straight for me. For my own
safety I was about to give it the contents of the second barrel, when, apparently catching
sight of my gallant men running away, it seemed to become affected with their fears, and,
turning, made for cover. I now sprang up to pursue, expecting, from the sounds I heard,
that it was crashing on ahead. Imagine, then, how thoroughly I was upset by almost running
against it as I hurried out of the thick bush. The creature by a touch of its tail might
have knocked me over before I recovered my [325]
[326] wits, and nimbly dodged out of sight. Having regained
presence of mind, I was able to observe that the animal before me was positively sitting
in a most dignified attitude on its rear. I did not stop to speculate on this unusual
posture, but speedily put a ball in its spine. Dignified to the last, my elephant
gradually sank down with fore–legs bent in, and I emerged with the triumphant air of
a Nimrod, to form a fitting figure in the grand tableau. The first bullet had done
the deed, and the elephant went only some ten yards from the spot where it was shot. The
tusks, though not very large, were an extremely handsome pair, weighing together 35 lbs.
Next morning we extracted the ivories, and then, after I had shot a zebra, to keep the
camp in meat, I set off on an exploratory trip. We at first went east, then south, along
the base of the hills, seeing numerous traces of elephants. At last we reached a gorge
leading up the hills, and we were greatly struck by the enormous pathway and the evidences
of elephants in great numbers having formed it in going to and fro to the hills. Following
it up, we traversed a narrow defile, then ascended through a dense bush forest notable for
the enormous number of black pigeons feeding upon the fruit. On reaching the top we found
the country stretching away in one great expanse of light green, slightly sinking, to rise
again in another range of hills. A beautiful open road, like the cattle–tracks of
Ngongo, led pleasantly through the tall, much–branched bush. While moving leisurely
along this, we were suddenly arrested by the sound of elephants on our left. Running back
on our tracks to get the wind in our favour, we entered the forest, and noiselessly
threaded our way. I speedily sighted one of the elephants. Getting up to within ten yards,
I fired, but doubtless the intervening branches spoiled my shot somewhat. The bullet,
however, struck. Off the animal rushed, and I, forgetful and excited, hastened after it,
looking neither to right nor left. I had not continued the chase many yards, before I
found myself close upon the wounded animal, which was bleeding profusely. Again I fired,
hitting it on the other side. In the very moment of my firing, I became aware of a
crashing on my left in such startling proximity that it gave me a feeling as of cold water
running g, down my back. As I quickly looked around, the head of an elephant was just
emerging from the dense ‘bush onto the small clear area, in which I stood. I dropped
instantly behind a very small bush, mentally concluding that [327] my life was not worth five minutes
purchase if the elephant was vindictively inclined. The position was, certainly, not
without elements of the thrilling sort. Here I was, on my knee, behind a small skeleton
bush, positively looking up at an enormous wild elephant, the head of which was
almost over me; one elephant was running away on my right, four or five were behind me,
and several on my left. I was, in fact, in the midst of a herd of elephants–though I
must hasten to explain to the reader that they were all running away from the spot, with
the exception of the one in front of me. For a moment it looked around with a stolid air,
as if inquiring what on earth all this row meant. I was unseen, being indeed too
immediately under it. My gun was levelled, however, dead fora hollow over one of its eyes,
and if it should move one more step forward, my bullet would find a home in the bony
cavities of the brute’s skull. As I crouched, like a stone statue, watching with
dread expectancy, though with unwavering muscle, for the opportunity of action, the
elephant turned sharp round, and the next moment a bullet sped to its heart. Bellowing out
in its acute agony, it lumbered away, and, a few minutes after, I was rejoined by my
runaways, who, at the most dangerous moment had left me in the lurch. Like
blood–hounds we now took up the trail of the elephant first shot. We had no
difficulty in tracing it, as the blood had literally spouted out on both sides, sprinkling
the bushes with a crimson shower. At one spot where it had halted, and apparently reeled
round in a dazed state., a considerable space had been saturated. But though blood hail
been shed at this rate, the animal was not fated to be "bagged." As we went on
the blood–stains became less and less noticeable, and we had more and more difficulty
in following it up, for, besides the denseness of the bush, the astonishing quantity of
game spoor deterred us from going quickly, lest we should suddenly find ourselves at the
mercy of the elephant. For an hour we pushed on with very much the same sensations as we
had experienced in Lykipia when following a buffalo into the bush. We were, however, in
great hopes that we would secure our prize, as the footprints showed signs of exhaustion,
and it was evidently dragging its feet along. Our hopes, however, were presently dashed to
the ground. Repeated gunshots from the distance alarmed us, for we knew that the men left
behind would not hunt alone. Fearing some attack by natives, we hurriedly retraced our
steps, only to be compelled to anathematize the [328] men on hearing that the occasion of
their firing was simply their discovery of the other elephant dead, within fifty yards of
the place where it had been shot.
As the sun was now falling in the western heavens, and the camp was distant, we were
compelled to hurry back, after extracting the tusks, which were about the same size as
those secured on the previous day. Next day we set off direct for the upper forest region,
in which it was clear elephants were numerous. We had not gone far before we descried a
rhinoceros and young. Working up to about forty yards, I fired with the Express and struck
the shoulder, a little too high up, however. Before it could collect its senses together I
gave it a second in its neck, and a third ill its side. These shots paralyzed it at first,
though it soon began to recover, and then catching sight of its baby, it made as if to
attack it as the cause of its agonies. The poor little fellow presented a piteous and at
the same time a comical spectacle of utter anxiety and perplexity. Apparently the mother
realized the absurdity of the idea before summarily pitching it ill mid–air, and,
precipitately rail off. Following it lip, I was suddenly electrified by a sound like the
trumpeting of an elephant, and leaving the rhino to my men, I started off ill pursuit of
this more noble game. The sound proved, however, to emanate from a buffalo.
Getting now to the upper region, we sighted a herd of elephants. I fired at one, but
missed it, and, time being short I was compelled to return to camp. On the way back I shot
two zebras. In one of the cases, a bullet With a steel core passed clean through the heart
of the zebra and struck the ground beyond, making us imagine that the game had escaped
scatheless. The animal galloped only a few yards, and then dropped dead. The mell had
secured the rhinoceros of the morning; so we were in no lack of meat however tough and
unsavoury.
Next day we had no better luck, and though we saw some elephants, we did not get a
shot. It was clear to us that these animals were in very great numbers ill the forest,
only the latter was so dense that no view could be got extending beyond six yards, and our
only guide was the crashing of branches when the elephants were feeding. If not making
some such noise, we might pass within four or five yards, and be quite unconscious of
their presence. The fact that on five consecutive days we stumbled upon them, sufficiently
indicates how numerous they were. [329]
Unfortunately we were badly camped for hunting this virgin
forest. It required from four to five hours to reach it, and by that time the elephants
bad fed, and were enjoying their siesta. The distance made it impossible for us to have
more than three hours’ hunting before we required to return. We were thus on an
average over ten hours a day on our feet, and I was compelled to take my companions ill
relays, as they were all complaining of being, done up. The fatigue and hardship of our
life soon told upon myself also; and I was beginning to moralize on the sinfulness of
risking my life in this manner. I made up lily mind, therefore, to return to Njemps,
though if I had camped up in the forest, and remained a fortnight, I might have easily
shot a thousand pounds’ worth of ivory.
Before striking camp, I duly noted that we had been living actually in the neck of ail
old volcano–one doubtless which had contributed to the ejection of the enormous
masses of lava of which the plateau is composed. Cutting straight cast, over hill and
dale, we made a rapid march to one of the lower steps of the escarpment, when I shot ail
old buffalo and also a young one. The latter was remarkably fierce, and showed well the
dangerous character of its race. After it had its leg broken, and was run to bay, it
charged us bravely, and though I had actually fired ill its eyes with my rifle, it only
rushed the more furiously on me, as if it had resolved that if it must quit life it would
do so in company. Zebras, eland, &c., were in very great numbers, and many lions
roared during the night.
Next day, by a very difficult road, we reached the north end of Baringo. On the way I
saw a lion, shot a species of antelope new to me, and new, I believe, to science, and was
greatly delighted by hundreds of zebra,, gambolling playfully about us at a distance of
thirty yards, utterly unconscious of danger.
The site of our camp, though the most uncomfortable I ever saw, had the advantage of a
most charming view of the lake, with Kirwan to the south, and an islet–dotted arm
running north between rugged precipices of the most picturesque description.
Before reaching this camp, I had an adventure of the most blood–curdling,
description. I was painfully pushing my way over stone and through thorn without a
weapon–my–gun–bearer being away behind, when I saw a sight which [330] made me strike an
attitude that would have brought down thunders of applause on the boards of a transpontine
theatre. A magnificent lion lay some fifteen yards ahead of me, enjoying a siesta. I was
weaponless. I looked round, only to see that I was alone. Crouching down, I began to
retreat, carefully fixing his sleeping Majesty with my eye. Getting some distance back, I
soon met my men, and then my gestures and evident excitement must have made them think me
mad. I seized a Snider, and in an ecstasy of excited anticipation, I proceeded to
"beard the lion in his den." The moment was supreme: I was (as I vowed to
myself) about to add the skin of the king of beasts as a fitting finale to my hunting
trophies. In my imagination, I was already detailing a thrilling story to awe–struck
audiences at home, as I exhibited the spoils of the chase. I was delighted to notice on my
return to the point of first discovery, that the royal beast was still asleep, and then I
submitted with all the stoicism of an Indian fakir to the tortures of stalking in this
horrid region. Thorns might penetrate my flesh, skin be knocked off my hands and knees,
but they could not extort a sound, or divert my steadfast gaze from the lion. Foot by foot
I crept on with rising hopes and excitements, breathlessly absorbed in the adventure. I
reduced my distance to thirty yards, then to twenty; yet the animal heeded me not. The
requirements of the chase I thought were satisfied: I must fire now! and I did. There was
a fearful roar (from the gun, not the lion) and an expression of pain as my knee subsided
with startling emphasis on to the point of a big thorn. I looked to see my game spring
high in mid–air with a wild death yell. But no; it did not move. It must be struck
stone dead! I thought; but to make sure, I fired again. No effect. Hurrah! a lion at last!
I jumped up, and shouted to my men to come and see what I had done. They soon came along,
shouting out in their excitement, while I turned and made for the carcass. I had not gone
many yards before I received a blow (mentally). "Good gracious!" escaped from me
as the awful truth crossed my mind that my friends might "write me down an ass."
The lion was indeed stone dead. I had been firing at a rock! I did not wait to
explain to my bewildered followers what had happened. I slunk away, and afterwards
pretended that it was a little joke of mine to vary the monotony of the march.
I shall not attempt to describe the horrible march we had [331] next day, climbing dangerous
precipices, and clambering over enormous angular blocks, from between which sprang tip
wait–a–bit thorns of the most harassing character. After fourteen hours’
hard tramping, we stumbled into camp at Baringo in a pitch–dark night, and amid a
pouring rain. And so ended my hunting and exploring trip round the lake. In the course of
the ten days I had shot six zebra, four rhinoceroses, four buffaloes, three elephants, one
giraffe, and one antelope.
On my return there was still no news of Jumba, and I therefore determined to march
homeward as we were in danger of starvation–neither the Njemps people nor those of
Kamasia having any food to sell. This would necessitate the. desertion of the men whom
Jumba had left behind; but then I had a duty I owed to my own caravan, which would run a
very great risk of being stuck entirely up country for want of goods.
I had determined to start on the 17th of February, when we were all shocked
by most dreadful news brought by Jumba’s Njemps guide. He declared lie was the only
man left of the entire caravan, every one having been massacred in Elgumi. He told his
story in such a circumstantial and apparently truthful manner, that I could not but
believe him.
After that, of course the traders could not be deserted. Moran and Hamis, who were in
Kamasia, must be sent for, so that we might all return together.
On the 22nd of February, we left our camp under the sycamore–tree of
Guaso Tigirish and moved on to Njemps of Guaso na Nyuki, where I stopped another day to
await the arrival of Moran, who had exceeded his time. Next day fortunately he arrived,
and shortly after appeared a native of Njemps, who had just come from the Suk country, and
who brought the remarkable intelligence that the story of Jumba’s annihilation was
all a lie. Here was a proper quandary! I was inclined to believe the first messenger, the
traders the second. On going into council, I made it clear to them that I could upon no
account stop to verify the intelligence, as my men were already on half–rations, and
our goods nearly finished. The traders, however, with sentiments which did them much
honour, declared that they were quite resolved not to desert Jumba or forsake the trust
reposed in them. They must wait for him, though they should starve or be killed. Hamis
elected to go with us, and we took charge of several loads of ivory. As all the goods of
the traders wore [332] exhausted, I had to give them some of my sadly diminished stores, to keep
them from starvation.
On the 24th of February, we resumed our march towards Naivasha. Our route
lay S.S.E. to the end of the alluvial plain of Baringo, where it forms an angle with its
apex to the south. Here a considerable area is occupied by a marshy lake, fed by two
streams and a number of large springs, which on examination proved to have a temperature
of 100% From the marsh, we entered a close glen or gorge. Through this ran a fine stream,
the Ngare Rongei (Narrow River), which also had its source in a number of hot springs,
that were to be seen bubbling up along a line of fault. To judge from the large deposits
of travertin, there must be great quantities of lime in solution in the springs.
Pushing on rapidly up the glen–which on our left presented a precipice, and on our
right a slope grading up to form a hill–we soon after reached a more open space with
a marshy expanse formed by the head springs of the Ngare Rongei.
Here we camped, and had to be content to drink warm water. Running parallel to our
route, was another glen to the east with exactly similar topographical features; namely, a
precipice marking a line of fault, with numerous hot springs gushing from the fissures,
and a slope leading upwards to drop off in another precipice along a line of fault. The
whole depression, indeed, between Lykipia and Kamasia is formed by a sinking of the
ground; but, besides, there have been at least three secondary earth movements parallel to
the main lines.
I had now been for some days feeling uneasy at certain dysenteric symptoms which had
appeared in me, brought on, doubtless, by the bad fare of the last two months. They at
last had begun to assert themselves in a most uncompromising manner, though as yet not
alarmingly. On leaving Ngar� Rongei, I felt very ill and weak, but had to rouse myself up
to shoot meat for the men. I knocked over two waterbuck, though I could hardly hold up the
rifle. After a couple of hours I was compelled to mount the donkey, but, owing to the
thorns and roughness of the road, I had to walk as much as ride. I contrived, however, to
shoot one rhinoceros, and Brahim a second. A third I had a very narrow escape from. I was
riding away ahead with Muhinna and the cook, while my guns were far behind. We were
suddenly thrown on our beam–ends by the sight of a rhino charging straight for us out
of the bushes. Struggling off the donkey ("Nil Desperandum"), [333] I seized Muhinna’s
Snider, only to find it unloaded. With eager haste I crammed in a cartridge, and with weak
and shaky hands I fired when the beast was actually within three yards. The ball took
effect in the shoulder, causing the brute to swerve and pass on one side. After a
waterless march of eight hours, we camped on the Guaso na Nyuki. I here became much worse,
and could neither cat nor sleep.
Next day’s march was distinguished by my rapidly increasing illness, and by the
sight of enormous herds of buffalo grazing on the succulent new grass springing, up on the
lower plains. In spite of my illness, my shooting powers kept up wonderfully, as I brought
down buffaloes with single shots and at great distances. At 150 yards I shot three, the
single bullet in each case being sufficient. We crossed the beds of two small
dried–up lakes, and at mid–day we halted beside a fine stream flowing to the
Guaso na Nyuki. Close to camp I shot a zebra at 200 yards.
On the 27th I could not walk; yet we had no alternative but to push on. We
reached a kraal of El–moran and their sweethearts. These young warriors were
magnificent specimens, and were surprisingly on their good behaviour. I now made certain
that I was suffering from dysentery of the worst type, and my look–out was certainly
gloomy enough, as I had not a single European article except tea–not even common
salt.
Next day I struggled onward, but was almost glad that we were compelled to halt at a
kraal of El–moran, after little more than an hour’s tramp. We were here almost
due east of the north end of the salt lake of Nakuro.
Our next camp, which was near the north end of Elmeteita, we reached after a four
hours’ swift march, under a terribly hot sun. By this time I required to be supported
on the donkey. The whole country presented a fearful spectacle of skeletons and dried
skins, which told eloquently a tale of disease and death. The scourge had found its way
from the plateau, and had hardly left a head of cattle in the entire country. At this camp
the place was pointed out where, a few years ago, a Mombasa caravan had been utterly
annihilated by the Masai, owing to some trivial dispute.
The following march was to Kekup�, past the edge of Elmeteita, great patches of which
seemed to be suffused with a pinky glow. This is due to multitudes of flamingoes.
More dead than alive, and held on the donkey more like [334] a corpse than a sentient being, I was
borne away from Kekup�. The one refrain that passed hopefully through my brain was,
"Let us get to Naivasha, and milk will put me all right." And so, heedless of
horrid tortures and burning suns, I pressed the men onward. One man died of dysentery. The
Masai saw the death, and consequently he had to be left to the hyenas. Martin, good soul,
was in despair, and he said eloquently–though unintentionally–with his eyes;
"You are dying " and what on earth shall I do?" I smiled, however, at the
idea, as I had not yet made up my mind to cave in, and the will, after all, has something
to do with these matters.
On the 4th of March we reached our old camping–ground of Msegina, at
the north end of Naivasha, and there I utterly collapsed. I could neither stand nor sit.
Even milk curdled in the stomach, and the crisis of my fate had come. I had much reason to
fear perforation of the colon, which I knew would mean speedy death. The rest, however,
had a good effect. The lamp of life flickered a little, then became more steady. I never
lost hope, and the idea of my becoming meat for the hyenas was one I would never permit
myself to entertain for a moment.
For seven days I got absolutely nothing but a few cups of clear soup to keep me going.
Owing to the cattle disease, no food was to be had for love or money. Martin and the men,
however, contrived to shoot three zebra and to buy two rotten bullocks, which staved off
starvation.
While we were at Naivasha, the remnants of a war–party
got back from Nandi, near Kavirondo, where they had been utterly thrashed and
one–half of their number killed,–the rest returning home in ones and twos, some
without spears, many without shields. Finding myself a little better after two days’
rest, I resolved to proceed to Mianzi–ni (place of bamboos), on the plateau, and try
to get into communication with the Wa–kikuyu, for the purpose of procuring food. A
hammock was rigged on a pole. I was lifted into it, and off we started. We rounded the
lake, and soon were moving up the slopes towards Mianzi–ni.
At our camp another man died of dysentery, and again Martin was compelled to leave the
poor fellow as a feast to the hyenas. Martin, thinking that my fate was likely speedily to
be the same, did not tell me anything about it till long after.
On the third march we surmounted the last step of the [335] escarpment, and then a magnificent view
burst upon us. We were looking across a great plain, slightly undulating and perfectly
treeless, bounded on the east by the imposing mass of the Aberdare Range, with Donyo
Kinangop rising in picturesque distinction. Through a slight gap the snowy peak of Kenia
glittered in crystal purity. To the south–east lay the wooded highlands of Kikuyu,
with forests of bamboo in the foreground. To the south–west we saw the yawning pit of
Donyo Longonot, and the romantic expanse of Naivasha. To the south the desolate plain of
Dogilani, and to the cast the massive escarpment of Mau. I got myself held up to view this
grand landscape–probably unsurpassed any where and, weak and weary as I was, I
surveyed the glorious panorama with infinite delight, though also with a spice of awe.
Shortly after, we entered the bamboo forest, and, to our great astonishment, we were
soon made aware that the traders we had left with the Andorobbo of Kenia had found their
way thither, and were hiding among the hunters, unable to return alone, and hoping for the
appearance of Jumba’s caravan. The sight of our party of course raised their spirits,
as they were now able to come forth and join us.
At Mianzi–ni we found ourselves at a height of nearly 900 feet, and anything but
comfortable. The cold was excessive, [336] and the misery of it was unspeakably intensified by the damp and the
almost daily rain. It felt worse than the east of Scotland in early spring; A steady wind
blew from the cast during the day, though fortunately falling away at night. Everything
was sloppy and wet, and hail–storms were common.
For the first two days I began to feel myself getting better, and I might have been all
right within a fortnight if I had had a little proper food and medicine;. but clear soup
made from diseased meat of the most disgusting character was hardly suitable as an
invalid’s food.
On the 12th of March I find the following entry in my diary: "After a
critical three days, during which I hovered on the verge of the grave, I have contrived to
give Death the slip by timely ‘joukin’ roun’ the corner,’ and to
strike out on more hopeful bearings. Appetite returning, and, after some fourteen
days’ starvation, able to eat a little." After that there appears in my journal
a blank of six weeks, which tells eloquently its own tale.
On the day following the entry, I was removed from the tent into an
imperfectly–thatched grass hut. Immediately after, a terrific storm of thunder and
hail burst over Mianzi–ni. For hours great lumps of ice fell incessantly, amidst
crashing thunder and vivid lightning. Everything was drenched, and I myself was speedily
soaking. The whole country for sixteen hours–at least wherever it was free from
forest–lay absolutely white. It was like a winter scene in England.
The consequence of this wetting was a relapse under the most wretched circumstances.
Throughout the period represented by the blank I lay at death’s door. I never knew
what it was to have more than fifteen minutes’ sleep. I was confined to a grass hut
without a window. Owing to the cold, even the door had to be kept shut, so that I lay in
almost complete darkness. A fire could not be lighted, and I had no material to make
candles. Martin, poor fellow, felt my situation too acutely to be a very enjoyable
companion. I myself could not talk, and many times I actually thought I had seen the last
of this world. And through the dreadful, weary, sleepless nights, how mournfully did the
wind sigh through the bamboos, and how gratefully I thanked [God to hear the cock crow (we
had brought one with us from Kavirondo), and then waited and listened to hear the chirping
of the feathered inhabitants of the wilds gradually [337] rising in volume, till through the
chinks in the grass walls could be seen faint pencils of light, and I know that another
weary day had begun. Then would appear Songoro with some soup, and later on Martin would
turn up with kindly inquiries. I became an object fearful to look upon, with eyes sunk
away deep into my skull. A skin bag drawn tightly over a skeleton and enclosing a few
indispensable organs of the human frame might express graphically my general appearance. I
was almost afraid to bend myself, lest the skin would not bear the tension over my bones.
Fortunately my pains were only occasionally acute, but if ever I attempted the smallest
bit of solid food it caused me to writhe about in agony.
But enough of these details, which can have little interest for the reader.
The Masai of the surrounding district were at this time in despair through the almost
utter loss of their cattle, and from the absence of rains in the low–lying district
causing them to remain up in the cold bleak highlands. They were greatly disposed to
ascribe their misfortunes to our presence. "What do you want here?" they would
ask. "You have no goods left; you can’t give our young warriors their customary
presents. The rain is not coming, and the grass has not sprung up. Our cattle are dying
off. You must be the cause of all this." Meanwhile it had to be kept secret that I
was ill, or we should have been bundled out bag and baggage. It was represented that the
great white lybon was hatching spine infallible medicine, that he was in consultation with
the gods, and must not be seen by mortal eye.
The temper of the Masai was well shown one day, when a porter, having declared he had
not a string of beads to give in alms to a warrior, the latter showed his belief that he
had no right to be crawling between heaven and earth in that miserable plight by spitting
him on one of their terrible spears, and afterwards splitting his skull open. That event
took place at the very gates of the camp, and before we got the matter squared up we had
to pay compensation to the Masai for blood having been spilt in their territory.
Towards the end of April we were all greatly astonished and delighted by the appearance
of Jumba Kimameta and his entire caravan, all safe and sound, and fairly well loaded with
ivory from regions never before reached by a coast caravan.
The weary days thus went on, and I alternated between [338] periods of hope and despair, though
frequently I would have welcomed death as a happy release. It now, however, became
increasingly clear to me that I should never get better in the cold, wet heights of
Mianzi–ni, and I at last determined that, as death in any case seemed almost certain,
I might as well close my career in an attempt, however hopeless, to reach the coast. I was
accordingly borne off, the mere shadow of my old self. Descending the escarpment, we
camped behind Donyo Kejab�, where I got a good supply of milk. Next day I was joined by
Jumba, and we proceeded to our old camp at Guaso Kedong. There we found the ivory cache
all safe, though a Masai kraal had been built on the top of it. The warriors were in great
numbers around us, and during the night we were kept in a very lively state by their
incessant attempts to steal, which ended in their carrying off a large number of donkeys.
Next day they showed a disposition to fight, but fortunately we got off without bloodshed.
Two days later we reached Ngongo–a–Bagas, and there we found a huge caravan
of 1200 men. We were received with great hospitality, and a large tax was levied for our
benefit; for it is customary for a caravan proceeding up country to assist gratis with
goods a caravan going coastwards, which is supposed to have nothing but ivory, and to be
at the starvation point–a description which we certainly merited.
Jumba and the entire caravan now brought pressure to bear on me to make me give up my
project of crossing Kapt� and proceeding via U–kambani and Teita to Mombasa. They
were determined I should return with them to Pangani, and they told the most dreadful tale
of massacres and plunder committed by the ferocious warriors of Kapt�. I was obdurate,
however, and would listen to none of them. Go I would by the route I had determined.
Finding at last that neither lies nor truths had any effect upon me, they gave way, and
Jumba, with surprising generosity, gave me a very large present of beads, cloth, and wire,
to help me onward A more thoroughly good follow than Jumba, Kimameta never lived (though
lie possessed almost all the characteristic vices of his race), and I thought he had been.
poorly repaid for his services when I left 1001. in the hands of Sir John Kirk, to be
spent for his benefit. I was assisted by him in every way, and rarely thwarted–a
statement that can seldom be made by a European with regard to his connection with a coast
trader. [339]
On the 7th of May I left Jumba and his caravan, and
crossed the Kapt� plain, which here extends in treeless monotony to the hills of
U–kambani with hardly an undulation to vary the grassy expanse. In two marches we
reached the eastern boundaries of Masai Land without meeting any warriors, as they had all
retreated to the low country. Our progress was enlivened by our being scattered by a
rhinoceros, and by an attempt of mine to shoot a magnificent lion.
On leaving Kapt� we entered upon the mountainous district of Ulu, which we found to be
densely inhabited, fertile, and well cultivated, with cattle also in great numbers. In a
few hard marches I traversed this friendly district, with rising hopes of life, and dreams
of home and friends. Instead of becoming worse, I was getting better, and the only bar to
a rapid recovery from my state of emaciation was the absence of any digestible food.
Leaving Ulu, we emerged on the barren wastes which stretch away to Kikumbuliu, and at a
killing rate we rushed through this forbidding, uninhabited wilderness–for our goods
were exhausted, and the men were on half–rations. But there were no grumbles heard,
no remonstrances expressed. The men worked like heroes, and pushed on cheerfully from morn
till dewy eve, often parched for want of water, and with fell famine gnawing at their
stomachs. They saw their bright silvery dollars shining ahead, and I, as the surety for
the realization of their hopes, was carried forward right heartily. My vow registered at
the coast was fulfilled. These porters were regenerated morally and physically. I had
taken them away as the refuse of Zanzibar rascaldom; they were returning as men, with
their moral and physical defects cast off, and their good points in the ascendant. They
laughed at hardships, and made jokes regarding the emptiness of their stomachs.
We were once more in the "Nyika," with all its inevitable horrors. We crossed
Kikumbuliu, and found the people dying of famine; so no food was to be got there. The
Tzavo was reached, and then Ndi of Teita. Our food was absolutely finished. One day the
men did not get an article, and the next only a comparatively infinitesimal quantity. At
this point my two white donkeys, that had followed me from first to last, got poisoned in
some way or other, and on the same day, to my great grief, they both died. At Ndi we found
the famine also devastating the land. No food was to be got. Ndara was reached on the 21st
of May. There Mr. [340] Wray took pity on my condition, and gave me a small quantity of coast
salt and a cupful of rice. We stayed at Ndara only one day. Famine was the cry everywhere,
and my men at Ndara could get nothing but sugar–cane–not a very nutritious
article of food taken by itself.
Three days later we startled the inhabitants of Rabai by coming upon them unexpectedly
and firing of repeated volleys; but speedily the panic was allayed, as I was seen walking
through the village to greet my friends, the Rev. A. D. Shaw and his charming wife. This
was the first bit I had walked for more than three months, and I was glad to seek repose.
I need not tell how I got to Zanzibar, to find my old friend Sir John Kirk back at his
post, nor how I began rapidly to improve under his judicious care. After a short stay I
proceeded homeward, via Bombay and Brindisi–the Sultan of Zanzibar generously giving
me a free passage in one of his steamers to Bombay.
I have but one word to add in conclusion, and that word is in well–merited eulogy
of James Martin. I cannot speak in too high terms of this young sailor, who was ever
prompt to do whatever was required, always cheerful, and, though –uneducated, an
intelligent companion. He never presumed upon the favour with which I regarded him, and he
had no opinions of his own–an admirable quality for a subordinate in an African
expedition. The fact that from first to last we tramped along in the most admirable
harmony, and never once quarrelled, speaks volumes of itself. [341]
FINIS
|
