April 2005 Editor Sue Finnis

Presidents message

President's message April 2005

Being a member of the Horticultural Society can bring all sorts of opportunities and experiences. I thought I would just sit at the back during the meetings, and help out at the plant sale when I first joined, avoiding any major tasks and definitely the spotlight. I was the one in school that would avoid having to do presentations in front of the class at any costs, for fear of failure and embarrassment.

But the more I helped out at the plant sale, and the flower show, the more I wanted to assist my new found gardening friends with whatever needed doing. I still remember when Norma Harper, our president at the time, took me aside to ask me to organize the Spring OHA workshop. She told me she knew I could do it, and offered lots of assistance, so when I pulled it off successfully, I felt so much pride and accomplishment.

That sort of thing has happened again and again over the years, so it was with this new found sense of confidence that Audrey Morton and I walked into Blue Sky Radio to do a live phone-in show. The girl who would not talk in front of classmates, on the radio? Well who listens to that station anyway? The guys at the station made us feel at home and the hour long interview was over in a flash. We had a great time chatting about herbs to the host, and our online caller. And who was listening? 650 people online and who knows how many over the radio.

Thanks for the experiences. I cannot imagine what awaits around the next corner.

Geri Openshaw

UPCOMING EVENTS

April General Meeting
Thurs April 28th
7:30PM
Cassellholme Auditorium

Saturday April 30th
District 18
OHA Spring meeting
Sundridge

Plant Sale
Saturday May 28th
(more information inside)

Mini Plant Show
At the June Strawberry Social
Wednesday June 22

August 12th-14th
OHA Provincial Convention
Nipissing University
(more details later)

Important notice:
Due to a large provincial health care meeting to be held at Cassellholme on Wednesday April 27th, we have had to change our monthly meeting date for this month only to THURSDAY, April 28th, at 7:30 p.m. The executive meeting will be held at 6:00 p.m. as usual.

Cassellholme regrets any inconvenience this change of meeting has caused.

Thanks,

Geri

April Meeting

Thursday April 28th
7:30 PM
Cassellholme Auditorium
Speaker: Dick Tafel, ornithologist

"Birds in the Garden"

Master Gardener: Laurie Blais

Please remember to lug a mug for your tea or coffee - we hate putting Styrofoam in the landfill

GARDENING GUIDE

Mid April to Mid May

- Give the lawn a good raking to remove thatch and snow-mould once it has dried out and firmed up.

- Clean up perennial beds when snow goes, also removing all old stems that were left for winter interest. Shallow cultivation allows rain to penetrate soil.

- Plant deciduous trees as soon as soil is thawed.

- Gradually remove mulch from roses.

- Generally prepare beds, turn soil, etc..

- Cool weather vegetables can be planted as soon as soil is workable. Plant an extra row for the food bank!

- Gladiolas may be planted in early May - then successive plantings for longer bloom period.

- Sweet peas may be planted when soil is workable provided they have good drainage.

- Most overcrowded perennials can be divided in early May except early bloomers. Pot up the extras for the plant sale!

North Bay Horticultural Society Notes on Growing Herbs

Seedlings

Start inside 8 - 12 weeks before planting

If started by seed, more varieties are available.

Put drainage materials (i.e. clay pot shards, pebbles, chicken grit) at bottom of pots.

Good indoor soil mixture, 1 pt. sand, 1 pt. perlite, 1 pt. potting soil, well moistened.

Under lights, 2" above plants, well ventilated, 14-16 hours of light per day

Fertilize with fish emulsion after 2nd set of leaves emerge

Planting

Plant near you door for easy access.

Lots of compost in soil dug to 12 ".

Good drainage, organic enriched loam, but with gritty as well (2 types of chicken grit available at Burrows).

Plant outside when soil is workable, except for basil, which is very susceptible to frost (late June).

Space your plants for good air circulation.

Mulch 2-4 " in June to retain soil moisture, add organic matter, keep soil cool, reduce compaction, reduce weeding. You can use fresh grass clippings as long as no weed killer has been added to grass.

Watering

Keep moisture level even by adding 1" water per week. Use rain gauge, then supplement by watering if necessary. It is best to water in the early morning, as diseases may develop on foliage if wet during cooler nighttime temperatures.

Fertilizing

Every 2 to 4 weeks using compost, or fish emulsion, no more half strength of recommended formula.

Pests

Pests prefer the tender new tips so check both sides of leaves a couple of times a week.

Insecticidal soap or 40 parts water, one pt. dish soap, sprayed on for 15 mins., then rinse off, 3 times in a 10 day period, often works. Does not harm animals or bees.

Nana's bug juice: 2 crushed cloves of garlic, cayenne, 1/2c. water of cider vinegar; mix together, strain with cheese cloth or strainer, put in mister and spray every three days or when necessary

Harvesting

The best time to pick herbal bounty for winter storage is a sunny morning after the dew has dried, but before the sun has had a chance to warm them, because the essential oils are at their peak in the dry of the morning.

Herbs are at their peak before the flowers form (before their energy goes into seed production). Avoid heavy harvests of perennials herbs during the first year of growth, so their energy will be used to establish good roots. You can trim lightly to promote bushiness.

Once herbs are established, you can harvest 1/3 of the growth mid to late summer. Stop cutting 40-60 days before you expect the first frost. Herbs need plenty of foliage and fall sun to store adequate food for winter survival and spring's new growth. Ideally, drying can be done in a dehydrator, but can also be done in a low (150�F) oven spread out on baking sheets. Also, a dry, dark place with good ventilation works well. Herbs can be hung on clothes hangers, or on top of screens covered with paper towel to prevent blowing off.

For microwave drying, wash the herbs, pat them dry, then place in a single layer on paper towels. Microwave them for two to three minutes, checking every 30 seconds and rearranging if necessary to ensure even drying. Cool, then crumble and store as for air-dried herbs.

When herbs are completely dry, strip leaves from stems. Store in airtight glass containers or resealable plastic bags away from the light.

Storing Fresh Basil

Fresh basil should not be placed in the refrigerator; it is too cold for its tender leaves. Instead, place the stems in water on the kitchen counter and it will sit happily for a week.

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Seven Steps to a Healthy Lawn

1. Monitoring the Soil

Getting to know your soil is the first step in your lawn health care program. it is desirable to have a minimum layer of 15cm (6 inches) of good quality topsoil. Nutrient levels should be checked at least every three years with an accurate soil test. these are inexpensive ($5 to $35) and the results will show exactly what your soil requires in the way of added nutrients.

2.Mowing High

Homeowners spend a lot of time mowing, but little time thinking about how they do it. Often that's because it has become a routine task. Most of us lead lives, so we mow the lawn once a week on the weekend--regardless of whether the lawn really requires it. However, mowing your lawn properly is one of the most important things you can do to keep it healthy, It's also one of the simplest!

The most common mistake homeowners make is cutting grass too short. Remember: if you keep the foliage too short, you reduce the main food "factory" for the plant. With limited food produced by the grass blades, it becomes unhealthy--tempting the application of more fertilizer. All plants struggle to keep their root and foliage mass in a balance. Short foliage causes short roots that can't reach to water that's stored in the ground--tempting frequent watering. Plants with short roots are vulnerable not only to drought, but also to chewing pests like white grubs. Lastly, when a leaf blade is too short, it can't shade out weeds--tempting the application of herbicides to kill the weeds instead. So, alternatively, consider the benefits of taller grass:

1. Taller grass needs less fertilization.

2. Taller grass tolerates hot and dry conditions.

3. Taller grass shades out most weeds.

How tall should your grass be? A general rule of thumb is to keep it at least 10cm (3.5 inches) high. another is to never cut off more than one-third of the blade; lopping off more than that stresses the plant and causes root dieback to compensate. By letting the lawn height direct you, you will actually mow less in the long run.

It is also important not to mow when the lawn is wet. If you mow it wet, the cut is uneven, clippings tend to clump together and disease is much more likely to be introduced.

Also, the dull blades on a lawn mower mangle the ends of the grass, allowing disease to be introduced and to thrive. Keep your blade sharp. if the surface of your lawn looks gray or white after a mowing, your blades are probably too dull.

3. Grasscycling vs Fertilizing

Top dressing with organic matter (well-composted manure, sieved home compost or special top-dressing mixes) along with leaving your grass clippings on your lawn ("Grasscycling") should generally provide sufficient nutrients for your lawn. If testing reveals that your soil needs additional nutrients, then an appropriate application of an organic-based fertilizer suited to your needs could also be used. Chemical fertilizers, especially those high in nitrogen, often promote rapid blade growth instead of the desired, strong root growth. In addition, their easy-uptake formulation excludes natural bio-activity, reducing the soil life for other useful activities such as thatch decomposition.

When using fertilizers, follow this simple principle: use as little as possible, as effectively as possible, and fertilize mainly in the fall. This is the time of year when plants best use natural fertilizers, as they have their winter to be worked on by soil micro-organisms to convert them into plant nutrients. All fertilizers, including the organic ones, will pollute if used incorrectly. Water polluted with the fertilizer run-off becomes choked with algae growth which in turn depletes the oxygen necessary for fish and the other plant life.

4. Proper Watering

Grasses don't require as much water to grow as we tend to think. In fact, frequent watering encourages roots to grow close to the surface rather than searching for underground sources, thus making the plant more susceptible to drought. Over-seeding with long-rooted perennial rye grasses will help bring water up to relatively shorter roots of Kentucky blue grass species. In addition, if grass remains at 10cm (3.5 inches) or higher, it forms its own cooling mulch growth that keeps the soil moist. In the middle of summer when it is hot and dry, compare your lawn to a neighbour's who might be mowing their lawn short - you will see that your lawn is noticeably greener and less dried-out.

What many homeowners tend to do, when their lawn turns brown, is attempt to keep it growing by watering. but all northern grasses naturally grow slowly in midsummer when it is hot and dry (especially older species of Kentucky blue grass). Grass blades stop growing and turn brown, but the plants do not die, they are simply in a dormant phase. Indeed, when autumn rains finally fall, they green up again.

In most cases, your lawn will do better if you allow this process to take place. It's also a fact of modern life that, during droughts, municipal water supplies are over-taxed. When a drought hits, why not let your lawn rest for a while, so a good water supply will be available for other, more important community needs? ANOTHER way to conserve our precious clean drinking water supply is to plant drought-resistant species.

If you are just beginning the transition from heavier doses of fertilizers and pesticides, your lawn may still have a shallow root system and you will need to watch it carefully for signs of drought. You may need to add water weekly in summer when rainfall is low. Let your lawn be your guide. Check to see if it needs water by walking across it. If footprints linger for several hours, your grass is severely dehydrated and needs water. in that case, place a flat tin or tub on the lawn and water until the tin has 2.5cm (1 inch) of water. this amount of water will percolate deep into the soil to the deepest roots. Do not water during the heat of the day, as at least two-thirds of the water will be lost to evaporation.

Watering more than that just causes a leaching of soil nutrients, especially nitrogen, which is very water soluble. Remember--between you and Mother Nature, never water more than 2.5cm (1 inch) per week.

5. Aeration

Healthy soil should consist of one-half air spaces. These spaces allow the transfer of oxygen and water to turf roots. Soil with lots of organic material already has this structure. However, lawn soil that has been fed with only chemical fertilizers lacks this matter and must be aerated. There are two mechanicalways to aerate you lawn and relieve the stress of soil compaction. You can "spike aerify", which is not recommended if the soil is heavily compacted, or "core aerify". Core aerifiers remove plugs of soil which are then left on top of the lawn. Leaving these plugs on the lawn is beneficial because they return top- dressing material and nutrients to your soil. You may wish to aerate in the Spring or the Fall, depending on your soil condition.

6. Top Dressing

Spread well-composted manure, compost or specially prepared top dressing mixes across your lawn as evenly as possible. Spreading compost allows you to introduce nutrients and organic matter to the existing soil. Top dressing should be done on a yearly basis, preferably in the Spring. Milorganite is one choice.

Overseeding - Choosing the Right Seed

Top dressing in the spring, when the soil is warm, allows overseeding with tough lawn grasses to crowd out those weeds and pests. If you are planting a new lawn or undertaking major rehabilitation of an old one, selecting the right grass is your most important decision. Consider your lawn's purpose. Will it get rough wear, or do you want it mainly to view? Consider as well the available sunlight, interference with underlying roots, soil condition and moisture level. There are wonderful new seeds available to cover all these needs as well as provide excellent drought-resistance (choose carefully as you would for your gardens).

In addition, many perennial rye grasses have natural endophytes. These are tiny fungi attached to their roots which help nourish the plant and make them unappetizing to root-eating pests such as chinch bugs and white grubs.

Now, Sit Back and Let the Grass Grow

Once you have planted the right kind of grass, are mowing it high and only when necessary, and watering and fertilizing wisely, you're ready for the best part in lawn care: forgetting about it. If you follow these cultural practices, you will be working with nature instead of against it, and it will be easy for you to have a healthy lawn with a minimal amount of work. Then you will have more time for doing the fun things in life, like sitting back and enjoying the green and growing world!

Planting Naturally

For many reasons, from environmental considerations right through to wanting to reduce maintenance and expense, many householders are looking for an attractive alternative to lawns.

The healthiest lawn substitute will also be the most diverse. Through diversity, the best balance of nature is maintained and individual species are less prone to disease, insects or even drought. Natural pest predators such as birds and ladybugs are also drawn to those diverse habitats.

More and more consideration is given to planting only indigoes species-- called naturalizing. Healthy, resistant plants result from correct matching with existing soil and growing conditions. Start with shrubs and trees that give winter structure, then add swaths of native wildflowers, grasses and bulbs. Consider a small water pond to attract frogs, birds and even butterflies. Make sure you include some weeds such as goldenrod, and Joe Pye Weed to feed the butterflies. Remove what offends you but create an easy, year-round attractive habitat as well.

Ornamental shrubs, perennials and ground covers can also be good, low maintenance lawn substitutes. Again, assure plant health by carefully watching conditions and plants. Good research in advance to find strong species will spare hours of work later on. Certain herbs and flowers when interplanted will help keep specific insects or diseases away. For planning assistance, check the library or ask for a consultation with a local landscape designer. Few beautiful things are created quickly!

Always remember the most important point - a garden is only as healthy as the soil in which it is planted!

Protecting Our Waters

Clean, safe water is any community's greatest natural resource. Protecting this supply must be everyone's responsibility. Because drinking water is such a vital resource, we all need to be alert to ways in which we might personally prevent either the contamination or wasteful use of this precious substance. Stream, rivers or other surface water sources can be contaminated with household hazardous wastes, which include chemical toxins such as cleaning products, pesticides and chemical fertilizers. Disposing of unwanted chemicals down household, commercial and industrial drains, or down storm sewers in streets or roadways, can have serious impacts on waste water treatment facilities and on aquatic ecosystems. Furthermore, our waste water treatment facilities are not designed to treat chemicals, so they end up in the discharge flowing into our lakes, rivers, neighbourhood creeks and streams. Water is a precious resource, so it makes sense to take all possible precautions to reduce the use of chemicals as much as we possibly can!

Final Thoughts

Most of us are concerned about the environment, but we often feel helpless in the face of large-scale problems. Global warming, acid rain, groundwater pollution, hazardous waste--how can one individual possibly have any meaningful impact on such complicated issues? We hope we have shown you here that you can start right in your backyard.

Pesticides are poisonous substances. Scientists know that many of them harm humans, animals and plant life. And there is much left to be discovered about the potential harmful effects. Eliminating pesticides in our lawns is a critical first step in reducing world-wide use and world-wide problems.

If you have been in the habit of using pesticides, or if you have inherited a lawn that has not been well cared for, eliminating pesticides nay seem like a step backward. In fact, it is a huge step forward. Do not be deterred by those who say it won't work! It will--But it will take several years for your lawn to re-develop the biological activity that makes the system work. Your health, your children's health, and your children's, children's health depend require it!

The fundamentals are simple: plant the right grasses, let your grass grow tall, and mow properly. We also urge you to consider reducing the amount of land on which you have

grass. Prairies, woodlands, perennial gardens, shade gardens and wildlife habitats are beautiful alternatives that require little care.

Life is too short to spend excessive amounts of time mowing and weeding, and it is too precious to risk exposing it to toxic substances. We hope we have convinced you that we can all choose to have Healthy Lawns, Healthy Lives and a Healthy Planet.

Source: The Scugog Green Team

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Last call for ordering the OHA Centennial deep purple tulips which are a great deal. They usually cost about $14.95, instead of the $8.00 we are charging. These bulbs are of extremely good quality and support the work of the Ontario Horticultural Association and our Society. Contact Pat Madill. Please pay at time of ordering.

Listen to Blueskyradio's live Gardening show, every Thursday from 5:30 - 6:30 p.m. featuring the new host, Jeff Buell. Local gardeners will bring you all sorts of timely horticultural information, and will take your questions by phone or email. Listen at 104.9 FM or online at blueskyradio.ca.

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PLANT SALE

May 28th Saturday 9am.

Christ Church 890 Vimy St. North Bay.

PERENNIALS PERENNIALS PERENNIALS PERENNIALS

Tim Hortons' coffee and home baked muffins are also for sale.

This is our only fund raising event of the year and is very popular with the local community. Much help is needed to make this a success.

May 14th 10.00am At Marie Luise Fraenkels' Northern Perennials Centre in Astorville.

Marie Luise, as usual, has very generously allowed us to dig large clumps of her plants which we will then divide and pot for the sale.

We need help with this digging and potting and then nurturing of the plants. Please let me know if you can help that day.

PLEASE SEE WHAT YOU HAVE IN YOUR OWN GARDEN THAT YOU COULD DIG, DIVIDE AND DONATE TO THE SALE.

Help is needed 27th. May Friday 5pm. at Christ Church to set-up, price and organise the sale. Coffee will be available for all members.

POTS POTS POTS ETC

We need as many pastic plants pots as possible; preferably medium and large sizes. Please bring them to the next General meeting April 27th.

Anyone who would like to be on the Dig/Pot/ Help team, please let me know at the meeting or call me at 476 0567.

Many thanks. Daphne

There will be a Bonsai workshop and demonstration on Saturday May 14th at the Callander Community Centre, 10:00AM - 2:00PM. Cost is $15:00 per person which includes lunch. Bonsai material will be available for sale. For tickets and information please call Lorne Cutts, 497-9731 or Isla Reed, 752-2565.

Treasurers report April 12th 2005

Investment savings...........4034.65
Bank statement.............2894.93
Deposit......................1447.00
Outstanding cheques x 6..........497.50
Total current account..........2397.43

NBHS GENERAL MEETING

March 23/05

Attendance 40 - Cassellholme auditorium

President Geri Openshaw called the meeting to order at 7:34pm welcoming everyone.

Minutes of the February 23rd general meeting were moved to be accepted as printed in the Green Thumb, by Vickie Weimer seconded by Debbie Caldwell.

Correspondence - 7 membership renewals, Volunteer forms, Bonzai Workshop May 14, Convention registration forms and speakers list, Ontario Regional Lily Society info, OHA treasurers job, Social Planning Council thank you (Living Quilt), OMAFRA cheque, Ontario Volunteer Service Awards application.

Correspondence sent - sympathy cards to Donna Reid and Marion Finnigan and flowers sent in memory of John Finnigan.

Treasurer - Helen Bannerman moved the acceptance of her report as printed in the Green Thumb, seconded by Ruth Wright. Carried.

REPORTS

Green thumb - Sue Finnis thanked Eleanor Giddens and her son Marc for editing the March newsletter.

Civic Beautification - Ruby McLeod has a design for the waterfront bed that will contain the letters OHA in begonias. There will also be 6'x2' sign with the printing - "Welcome Ontario Horticultural Association 1906-2005, green printing on a white background.

Program - Daphne Andrews has guest speakers scheduled for the year.

Publicity - June Charette is sending in meeting notices.

Flower Show - June Charette said - 'If everyone entered two items, it would be a great Flower Show'.

Membership - Darlene Lecour reported 110 members and she would like to be notified of any change of address.

Social - Judy Watling needed to names for goodies for the social menu.

Tulips - Pat Madill had 36 orders and next month is the last chance to order tulips. This notice will be in the Green Thumb.

Convention - Betty Foy had the members join in the Convention 'Welcome Song'. Betty had volunteer forms for members to sign and TIP booklets were available. Payment for Tshirts is to be in by the next meeting.

There will be an OHA design workshop on July 9th at Dunchurch Community Centre. A gift for a Silent Auction is to be donated.

Pat Madill was our Society's membership table representative at the Heritage Gardeners Symposium February 27th and she obtained some tulip orders and also gained insight on what her garden can do.

The By Laws and Constitution was Moved "To be accepted as printed in the Green Thumb" by Vickie Weimer and seconded by Betty Foy. Carried.

Some seed packets were available to members and the remainder will be given to the Living Quilt Project.

Vickie Weimer and Ted Reid will be on radio 104.9 Narch 24th from 5:30 to 6:30pm to discuss the OHA Convention.

Next week at the same time the President and Audrey Morton will be on this program to discuss 'Herbs'.

Guest Speaker at the April general meeting will be Dick Taffel, Ornithologist, to discuss 'birds in the garden'.

This months' winner of a member's OHA Convention registration was Sharon Johnson.

Adjourned 8:12pm by Helen Bannerman.

Master Gardener was Monica McLaren

Door prizes were won by Ella Fudge, Joyce Richardson, Caroline Gingras, Judy Brewer and Isla Reid.

Secretary Peggy Dillon


Our March speaker, Dale Dallaire sends her regrets as she was taken ill the day of our meeting and her attempts to pass the message to us failed. In lieu of her talk she suggested this information for our members:

Source : www.wildaboutgardening.org created by the Canadian Wildlife Federation

To attract predatory insects to your garden to help with pest control:

Don't use pesticides. Pesticides rid your garden of many of the beneficial insects which are necessary for a healthy garden. Instead attract predatory insects and other animals such as birds to your garden and let them control any pests. Even organic pesticides can have negative impacts on beneficial insect populations.

Plant a variety of flowering plants, especially those with small flowers rich in nectar. Although many of the larvae are predators, these will supply the nectar and pollen necessary to many of the adult forms and provide safe places for resting and laying eggs.

Particularly attractive are herbs allowed to flower, such as coriander, fennel, dill, lavender, thyme, mint, and parsley.

Flowers of the composite or daisy family are also appealing to beneficials. Examples include goldenrod, daisies, coneflowers, thistle, ironweed, sunflowers, coreopsis, and black-eyed Susan.

Intercrop. Mix up your plants so that those that attract beneficial insects are near those that need protection.

Place your plants close together to provide a moist, shaded environment for beneficials who dehydrate easily.

Provide a source of water for beneficial insects by putting out a shallow dish of water with stones to allow them dry places to land.

Plant ground cover to provide shadowy, sheltered spots for spiders.

Keep your soil healthy by adding compost to allow soil organisms to thrive.

Attract beneficial insects to your yard rather than buying and releasing them. Releasing insects may rid your yard of naturally occurring beneficials through competition and predation (some beneficial insects, such as praying mantises, feed on both pests and other beneficial insects). In addition, some insects, such as certain ladybugs, are migratory and, once released, quickly move on to other locations.

Invest in a good insect guide so that you can accurately identify trouble makers and beneficials.