SOUTH AMERICA TRIP IN JUNE/JULY 2001

PERU --> CHILE --> ARGENTINA


FOREWORDS

SURPRISES
    In Machu Picchu, Peru
    In Arica, Chile
    In Foz de Iguazu, Brazil

COMMUNICATION BEYOND LANGUAGE
    In Arica, with a hotel hostess
    In Amantani Island, with a host family

UNBELIEVABLE
    Machu Picchu, Peru
    Brazilian at Foz do Iguazu

IMPRESSIVE MOMENTS
    Cuzco, Peru (3300m above sea level)
    Lake Titicaca (3800m above sea level)
    Lauca National Park, Arica, Chile
    San Pedro de Atacama, Chile
    Calama, Argentina
    Iguazu Fall, Argentina / Brazil
 

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FOREWORDS

Few HK people go to South America because it is expensive, far and time-consuming. This time I hardly had time to make a careful plan for the trip because before departure I was preparing and attending my professional exam and I had to leave right after the exam.

In this one-month-long trip, I stayed in totally 17 different hotels/guest houses, took 5 domestic flights and countless long-distance and short-distance buses. You could imagine how big is South America and how much money and time one needs to spend on transportation while travelling in South America. Also, for this reason, this trip was tiring to me, almost every day I needed to consider the transportation problem and accommodation problem. You could say this is the weakness of travelling alone, but I also experienced the caring and warmth from the local people. Also, the places I went this time varied in temperature, ranging from 25 to -12 degree Celsius, even though my body was not weak, I fell sick several times during the trip.

In this trip, I only visited some major historic sites and scenic sites in Peru, Chile and Argentina. I also stopped by Foz do Iguazu in Brazil to see the Brazilian side of Iguazu Fall and stopped by Asuncion in Paraguay to fly back to Hong Kong.

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 SURPRISES
 

Life is full of surprises, especially while you are travelling, some are created by yourself but some are not.
 

In Machu Picchu, Peru

In Machu Picchu, one accident happened to me. The email I sent to my friends after the accident recorded the event.
 
 

In Arica, Chile

On 25 June 2001, there was a 7.9 magnitude earthquake in Arequipa, a city in the south of Peru. It killed 47 people and injured 550 people in Arequipa. At the time of the earthquake, I was in Arica, the border city in Chile, adjacent to another border city of Tacna in the south most Peru. Arica was also affected by this earthquake. The email I sent to my friends from Arica recorded how I felt at that time.
 
 

In Foz de Iguazu, Brazil

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I stayed in Foz de Iguazu in Brazil for less than 24 hours, but what I saw already made me escape this town as soon as I could. In the evening, while I was awaiting a bus, at the bus stop, I heard one metal sound falling on the ground. It was an about 15 inches long knife!!! sharp pointed and with zig zag edges on the blade. A young man swiftly picked it up and put it into his trousers, closed the buttons of his shirt and covered it up. Then he went to interfere with the two women waiting at the bus stop. He later was questioned by some uniformed people. What people told me about the crime in Brazil was sooo true. I immediately gave up the idea of having dinner in a street restaurant. I headed to the international bus terminal and had my dinner inside the terminal. It was too dangerous to be in the streets in Brazil at night.

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COMMUNICATION BEYOND LANGUAGE

In Peru, Chile and Argentina, people speak Spanish, very very few people can speak English. I don't know Spanish, not even a word. More worse, in order not to increase the load of my luggage, I didn't even take a mini Spanish dictionary with me. So...

However, sometimes you don't need language to convey to the other your feelings, you caring for the other. I deeply felt so in this trip.
 

In Arica, with a hotel hostess

In Arica, Chile, I initially stayed in a hotel with a hostess who couldn't speak any word of English. She was patient with me because the language barrier made me take a lot more time to make her understand what I wanted from her. She also helped me to call the bus company and book the taxi. After the earthquake in Arica, I went to visit her again. When she opened the door for me, I couldn't believe what I saw. Broken glasses on the corridor, dusts everywhere, broken objects on the tables, cracks on walls, broken objects on the floor... it was a ruin! I felt very sorry for her. She understood what I said (and my body language) although I spoke in English. She showed me to every room in her hotel, almost every room was damaged in some degrees, the office room and the kitchen room  were seriously damaged. She told me she would pull down the whole hotel and rebuilt a new one. She seemed to be optimistic and was ready to accept the fact before her. She even turned on the TV to watch the comedy with me and laughed. However, I could feel deep in her heart she was sad. How could one not be sad when she saw all of her home and business were destroyed in a minute. She kept repeating my name which was the only English words she could speak...
 

In Amantani Island, with a host family

In Amantani Island, an island in Lake Titicaca, in Peru, I spent one day and one night living on this no water, no electricity supply island. This is a poor and small island. The people there grow potatoes and exchange products with neighbouring towns. My host family was very nice. The whole family can't speak any word of English. The head figure in a family in that island is the father. The father chatted with me, asking me whether I felt cold, showed me the potatoes and the different plants in her house. I told him I liked the tea they provided for me, he immediately took off some fresh leaves from a plant and gave it to me to let me take them back to Hong Kong. The son and his wife also taught me Spanish... I could feel their hospitality without language.
 

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UNBELIEVABLE

For the great work made by the ancient people, we always wonder how did they achieve it without using any machines.

Not only the ancient work, sometimes we also wonder why some people living in our century could do something beyond our understanding.
 

Machu Picchu, Peru ('Lost City of the Incas')

An Inca construction, built around the first half of the 15th century A.D. It survived the Spanish destruction because it was buried under the thick vegetation until it was discovered by an American Hiram Bingham in 1911.

Presently there is no conclusion for the purpose of the city of Machu Picchu was built. There was no records on this because the Incas had no written language. The evidence seems to indicate it was destined for religious purposes, a great palace for the Virgins of the Sun - special women chosen to dedicate their lives to religious services. This theory is based on the fact that 75% of the human remains excavated there was female.

Machu Picchu was built on a mountain top (2400m above sea level), around it were mountain ranges and canyons. The mystery was the rocks which were used to build the city came from the surrounding mountains, not from the mountain on which it was built, but how did the Incas move the big rocks from the surrounding mountains to Machu Picchu in the 15th century?
 

Brazilian at Foz do Iguazu

I took a bus from Puerto Iguazu of Argentina to Foz do Iguazu of Brazil. When everyone on the bus got down from the bus, I also got down but I was not able to locate where I was, so I asked the people around. The people there couldn't read, they couldn't even tell me the name of the street where they were in. (One more difficulty was that the Brazilians speak Portuguese but I can't speak Portuguese.) When I tried again on a third passer-by on the street, a middle-aged woman who seemed to be a nice person, she didn't know the street I was looking for, then after she knew I came from Hong Kong, she somehow pulled me along and took me to cross a street. When I saw a Chinese man in front of me, I then understood what she was doing. The [local] Chinese man told me (in Chinese) the Brazilian woman needed to get 10 Real (Brazilian currency, 1 Real equivalent to about US$0.4 at that time). I said I was surprised she would ask me for money, and not only money, but 'huge' amount of money!! The Chinese replied, 'They [the Brazilians] are very bad. It is not safe here, a lot of thieves. You shouldn't come here.'

The Chinese knew I didn't have any Brazilian Real but U.S. dollars only, so he took out his purse and gave 10 Real to that woman. That woman said something to the Chinese and the Chinese gave 2 more Reals to her. I immediately felt that woman very detestable. So greedy!! But obviously the logics in her mind was sooo different from mine. The Chinese told me the woman wanted to give me her telephone number and that I could call her if I needed her help. [What a b/s!!] She also wanted to see me to my hotel, I said I could take a taxi to my hotel by myself. Before she left, she held out her hands to hug me and showed me how much she would miss me. I don't know I should curse or laugh. She is crazy!! insane!! She must have thought she deserved to be paid for what she has done for me and she felt she had done a good job for me. I just find her unthinkable and shameless. With the money she asked from me, I could already have taken a taxi two times. I then understood what the Chinese man meant by 'they are very bad'.

By contrast, the Chinese man gave me some local money to take a taxi (plus some for emergency use), took me to a taxi, bargained the taxi fare with the taxi driver for me, showed me the Brazilian and Paraguay border control across the street. All the way, he was very friendly and didn't ask me for money, on the contrary, when I gave him back money, he said that was a small amount only and he didn't need it. I don't know what is Brazilian culture, but I am proud of Chinese culture - the tradition of hospitality and the generosity of the Chinese!
 

[I wouldn't say all Brazilians are bad. The Brazilian drivers and the ticket sellers on the bus helped me several times when I took the local bus. They are the good Brazilians.]
 

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IMPRESSIVE MOMENTS

Cuzco, Peru (3300m above sea level)

It was once the capital of the Inca empire (15th - 16th Century A.D.), also the base for visiting the famous Machu Picchu. I like the narrow stone-paved streets with wood built balcony houses at two sides. Also like the central plaza, balcony houses, cathedrals, spacious square...

I encountered a Catholic festival there, saw procession carrying the religious figure statutes moving into the cathedral in plaza. Also, a banquet  for the festival and in the banquet, the typical food is a mixed plate of guinea pig, cheese, pork, beans, algae, bread... I tried the famous guinea pig (one mouthful), my comment is... please don't ask me to taste it again...
 

Lake Titicaca (3800m above sea level)
 

It is the highest navigable lake in the world, more than 170 km in length, the largest lake in South America. The lake straddles the Peru-Bolivia border. Among the islands in the Lake, are Floating Islands, Amantani Island and Taquile Island.

In Floating Islands of the Uros, everything on the island and the island itself is built with reeds.

In Taquile Island, it is men, not the women, who are responsible for weaving clothes.
 

Lauca National Park, Arica, Chile

Chungara Lake (over 4500m above sea level), volcanoes at the back, in Lauca National Park
 

San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

Salar de Atacama (salt field), volcanoes at the back

El Tatio Geyser (4300m above sea level), the world's highest geyser field
 

Calama, Argentina

Moreno Glacier
 

Iguazu Fall, Argentina / Brazil

Iguazu Fall


 
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