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Embossing

Embossing

Source: Unknown

My tip today has to do with embossing and a heat gun. Once I have put my powder on my cardstock and tapped off the excess, I find it helps if I zap the back side of my paper I'm embossing for just a second with the heat gun. It is as if it "presets" the embossing powder and it adheres better.

Source: Elaine Benedict

When you are using glitter put your piece on a manila folder. Cut a straw on an angle. Use this piece of straw to pick up your glitter and apply to your art. After you shake off the excess, close the folder a little. The glitter will move to the center and then you can pour it back in to the container. Minimizing your mess. I found by using the straw you used much less glitter than when you just pour from the container.

Source: StampNaround

One of my designers, Mary Munkel, thoroughly enjoys altering pieces of cardstock with our embossing powders and using them for card layering. She says, "It beats sifting through stacks of specialty paper looking for just the right coordinating piece and it creates depth on the front of your card". Since Stamp'N Around has over 200 embossing powders in four different categories; nearly transparent, semi-transparent, opaque, and cosmic one has a wide variety from which to choose. You can make a single embossed layer or multiple layers for one card; it only takes minutes to finish a piece since you are merely making a frame or border on the cardstock. If you read her instructions and look at her examples closely, you will see that her cards take on a distinctive and extraordinary appearance. Just click here to read and view what Mary likes to do with our embossing powders:
http://www.stampnaround.com/embossingpowderlayeringpieces.shtml.

Source: Roberta

When I emboss, I like to pour on the powder over a coffee filter, It does not seem to "static cling" as it does on paper. and you can reuse the filter (for more embossing).

Source: Unknown

I don't know you are familiar with ranger's Adirondack Powders. They are made with a white resin base so if you melt a small pile on a craft sheet and stamp into it, you will have a white impression. You can also melt a small pile on a craft sheet, tilt while still warm and you will see "veining". Looks cool. if you want more info on this technique go to Carol Duvall episode # CDS-853.

Source: Unknown

You can emboss your art when you use dye-based inks simply by first inking your stamp with clear embossing ink, then inking that same stamp with your dye ink. Stamp your image and then pour your embossing powder over your inked image and heat. Voila! An embossed image using dye inks! And you thought it couldn't be done??

Source: Unknown

When you have just little bits of embossing powder left, mix them all together for a "new" color. Or, use leftover EP in UTEE projects.

Source: Fred Mullett

I prefer using non-glossy, smooth surface stock. The reason being that you can go back in over the embossed image with markers and/or watercolor and create a tremendous range of treatments that are not possible using coated papers. Most markers are water or mostly water-based media, much like standard water-color paints. Water will not stick to plastic and since the melted portion of an embossed image is essentially plastic, the pigment in many brands of markers will simply slide off the plastic image and nestle in-between onto the exposed paper. This approach will not work well with glossy stock. It is even possible to use a water-color brush to blend the marker colors together, thereby achieving effects similar to standard water-color techniques. Be forewarned, powders with glitter or sharp plastic pieces will eat up the tips of your markers!

When buying embossing powders, never, NEVER, mistake the color of the powder in the jar for the finished product. There are too many variables. Ask to see a finished sample using the powder you are interested in and always ask if the sample was printed with a clear embossing ink, or a pigmented ink. Powders have many properties, not the least of which is whether it is transparent, translucent or opaque. If it is transparent or translucent, the color of the ink used and even the color of the paper can effect the finished product. If opaque, it'll be that color no matter what you make your base print with. Better stores displaying better samples will make up a variety of examples using different base inks to tell you what kind of results you'll be getting.

One of my favorite tips is the spot application of powders. Sorta like painting with plastic. Most of the people who tell me they emboss can be grouped into what might be referred to as Dunkers or Dumpers. They stamp an image and, in one way or another, drown it in powder. It works, but.... What I teach folks is to plan ahead of time, select several powders to use and apply them in selected areas by means of a very simple home-made tool. Find a small cocktail straw and cut the tip off at about a 45º angle. This creates a small hand-held shovel. This way you can scoop out a small portion of powder and carefully tap it in the area of your image you want. If you apply another powder over the top of this, the first powder will already be stuck to the ink and won't be effected by the next layer.

Stencils can also be used to apply powder to a specific section of your design. Once again, use powder sparingly with this technique or you'll end up with buckets of "party mix" (That's the name given to a ba-zillion powders all mixed together.)

Also think about using a condiment shaker with a collapsible lid and small holes to shake out powder onto your image. Once the image is lightly covered, you can tap or shake your paper to spread the powder evenly. With shakers, they're always ready to use and with practice you can blend colors of powders, one into the next.

Another suggestion is to use colored paper, somewhere on the light side of middle value. My preferences are tan and gray. This way you can use embossing powders and pigmented inks that are lighter in value than the paper and they will almost jump off the page. This is particularly effective with multi-colored techniques and markers.

Dry Embossing

Source: Unknown

When you are dry embossing it is sometimes hard for the stylus to glide, right? Take waxed paper and rub it on your paper over the area to be embossed. The stylus will glide smoothly and give you a wonderful embossed image.

Source: Anita

I was told when doing Parchment Craft to rub the stylus on my scalp. It does work.

Hot Glue Dry Embossing

Source: Kathie McGuire

Did you know that you can dry emboss just about anything imaginable with a glue gun, a stylus, and WITHOUT the aid of a template? Here's what I discovered and here's how you can do it!!!

I began with my heated, low temp glue gun. On a scrap piece of cardboard (I used an old UPS cardboard envelope) I wrote my name in hot glue. Next, I took a piece of cardstock, placed it on top of my hot-glue-written-name, and with the side of my stylus, lightly burnished the cardstock determine the exact location of the written image. Voila!! I could begin to see my name appearing onto the card stock. It was a light image, but clearly readable.

From there, you can decide if you like the light image or if you prefer an image that's a little more defined. For a more prominent image, turn your cardstock over, place a mouse pad underneath, and take the large tipped end of your embossing stylus and lightly trace on the outer edge of your image. This additional step really makes it pop. Beautiful!! And remember, you can make any shape that you can think of…..stars, hearts, circles, etc.

Here's an added tip to this fun technique:
Stamp an image of your choice (solid images). With your glue gun, carefully follow the stamped pattern by applying glue in a consistent thickness and along the outer line of your stamp and then fill in the shape. Voila! Instant "raised" template. Then, follow the same simple steps outlined above.

One other tip for worth mentioning. Just about anything with a shape can be dry embossed this same way. Remember taking a penny, placing it underneath a piece of paper, and rubbing pencil led on top of it? You can do this same thing by placing cardstock on top of an object and rubbing with a stylus or even a spoon. Amazing!!

To see a sample of this technique, you may view it in my photos folder on the following group's website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Playtime_RubberStampTechniquesOnly/. You will need to join first (only takes a second) and from there, see the instructions below.

From the homepage, click on "Photos". My folder is called "Creations by Kathie McGuire". You will only see the word "creations", but that's the correct folder. The photo is called Hot Glue Dry Embossing. You'll see that I embossed my name and then chalked on top of it for the purpose of this example (it's much easier to see on a digital photo if it's surrounded by some sort of color). It's beautiful to leave as is or of course, chalking, inking, or rub-ons can always be added for some additional flair.

As a note, I joined the above mentioned group when the list owner contacted me about this column. I've really enjoyed it because it's filled with quality information and not a lot of chatter or non-stamping related posts. It's a small, quiet group that could use a little activity so the list owner has opened up enrollment to any of my readers that would like to join. Hope to see you there!!

Embossing-"Take A Stand"!!!!!

Source: Unknown

Want a fast, easy, and free way (well, no need to go out and buy another template) to emboss images on cardstock? Then, "Take A Stand"!! Here's how you can do this fast, fun and simple technique:

Moisten a piece of cardstock (size of your choice) by soaking it in a shallow pan of water for about 2 minutes (this time can be adjusted to accommodate a thinner or thicker piece of cardstock). Remove it from the water and dab the excess water from it. Then, place it on top of a cushiony surface (mouse pad, craft foam, magazine, etc.) on the floor and place the stamp of your choice on top of the cardstock(rubber side against the cardstock). Then, stand on top of your stamp!! Remain standing on top of the stamp for about a minute (again, this amount of time may need to be adjusted according to the stock's thickness or texture. Some experimenting may be necessary to find the amount of time that's perfect for you and your project). Then step off, pick up your stamp, carefully remove your cardstock and place it on a flat surface. Allow your cardstock to thoroughly dry.

When completed, you will have a perfectly embossed paper-replica of your rubberstamp that's fabulous for adorning your next paper art project!!

When dry, here's a couple of extra hints and tips to use on those pieces:

Jazz up your image with a little bit of metallic rub-ons. Certain cardstock colors with certain rub on colors look amazingly like metals. Stunning!! Rub it with a little chalk. Looks gorgeous! Lightly brush a little ink onto the raised image with a stamping sponge. Instant character!!

Any means of adding colors works well with this technique. As always, let your imagination be your guide!!

Embossing Tools

Source: Unknown

My tip is a sad one for me. I was just in the middle of a card getting ready to emboss and my new heat gun died. Don't know why, it just quit. I needed to emboss some items to a large sheet and thought about my toaster oven, but I needed to add bits of sand, Rox, Beedz, EP, etc. where needed. I pulled out my old square electric frying pan ad placed the sheet (5 1/2 x 7 1/2)in the bottom, the two larger pieces on top and heated it up. I gradually added the bits and pieces as needed and while doing the Rox, I had trouble getting my finger in to get some out. I grabbed my Sweet N Low scoop (I saved them knowing they would come in handy one day) and they are the perfect sized for all of them-Rox, Beedz, EP,etc!!

Source: Unknown

Use talc or baby powder without oil as an anti-static substance when embossing. Before stamping your image and embossing it, apply a light coat to your card and tap off the excess.

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Site last updated December 4, 2004