What's in your paste?

I use a premix paste called Mehndi MUD available online from Lifeart. I trust this paste because it is very consistent in quality and staining power. I also trust it because it is very simple and made from all natural ingredients; fresh henna powder, fresh squeezed lemon juice and a cosmetic grade eucalyptus oil blend, and NOTHING ELSE. Another advantage to using this paste is that while wrapping and setting can be helpful, it is not absolutely necessary, and still gives a good consistent stain.

How can I make my own?

The key to good Mehndi is to use the FRESHEST possible henna powder.  Henna is susceptible to degradation due to exposure to heat, light and air.  The fresher the henna, the darker and longer lasting the stain will be. The mix I use contains fresh henna powder, lemon juice, and cosmetic grade eucalyptus oil. Traditionally, Paste is made using these ingredients along with a variety of others, including Teas, coffee, Rosewater, garlic, honey and many others.  Often more questionable ingredients are added to get a faster stain, but this is risky and not recommended.  There are many different recipes out there and while my recipe works for me, I encourage you to experiment on your own to find one that works well for you.  The ingredients above are mixed until they are about the consistency of toothpaste. The paste is then left to sit covered in a warm spot for a couple of hours until a brown film begins to form on top of the paste.  This film is evidence that the paste is oxidizing on top and the dye has begun to release.  The paste is now ready to apply.

How do you apply it?

There are several common applicators in use.  The original method was to use a stick, porcupine quill or wire to paint the paste on. Another more recent traditional method from India is the use of a hand rolled cone.  A piece of plastic sheeting is rolled into a cone shape similar to an icing bag, filled with paste and then squeezed out of the end onto the skin. Cone shaped bags (carrot bags-so called because of their shape, like icing bags can also be used in this way.  Very fine lines can be achieved this way, in keeping with the lacy delicate intricate designs commonly used in Indian Bridal Mehndi.  Another common method is the use of an applicator bottle.  This is my personal favorite, due to the uniformity of lines and control I have with it.  The bottles I like best are made by Jacquard and are generally used in silk painting.  They can usually be found in craft stores, Artist supply stores, or in the craft section of fabric stores.  They come with metal tips, which can be screwed onto the bottle to get different line widths.  They come in .5 .7 and .9 mm size tips.  Again, I recommend trying both cones and bottles to find which is best for you.  Many prefer cones because they are softer and easier on the muscles of the hand, which can be very important for those suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome or Arthritis.

How can I get the darkest stains?

The safest way to get deep dark long lasting stains is to employ MATH (an acronym that stands for Moisture, Acidity, Time & Heat) and to apply designs to areas with thicker skin, such as the traditional areas -palms of hands and soles of feet.  Keep the paste in moist contact with skin for as long as possible and keep the area as warm as possible.  Make the paste with acidic elements, such as lemon or limejuice, unless you live in a very warm climate where the paste can dye release too quickly.  One of the best ways to combine all these elements is to employ the use of wraps to keep the design in place, hold in moisture and heat from the body, and protect it from being smeared or flaked off.  This makes it possible to keep the paste on overnight safely and cleanly.    A good method for wrapping; after applying a setting agent, Lemon Sugar or NewSkin, apply a layer of cotton or toilet paper.  This should stick well to the lemon sugar but should be applied to New Skin while still wet and tacky.  Then after a good layer of the absorbent material is applied, tape down to hold in place.  Most types of tape will do for this purpose but I personally prefer to use Coach Tape.  It is flexible and is made for use with skin.  However care must be taken if used on delicate areas, as it can be irritating to remove from tender areas of skin.  Some people may need extra cotton or tissue applied on palms if they are likely to sweat more.  For this reason, I stopped using New Skin on my palms because the sweat would become trapped under it causing the paste to turn to runny mud, and smear underneath the wrapping.  Once wrapped extra heat can be applied thru the use of heating pads, blankets, heat packs, spouse, or pets.  This can be an especially cozy practice during the wintertime! In the morning, whenever you decide to remove the wrapping, peel off the wrapping. Most of the henna will come off with the wrapping, simply scrape off the remainder with a butter knife or other dull straight edge.  Holding the hennaed area over steam, (not too close!) can give the color a boost and can loosen stubborn bits of New Skin that don't peel off with the wrapping.  If there are still bits left, rubbing with some kind of oil, such as olive or massage oils can help remove the last of it.

However, with all that said, most of it is unnecessary when using a quality paste like MUD. I find that merely applying the paste in the desired design, and allowing it to dry and flake off naturally will give a good stain which lasts between 3 days and 3 weeks, depending on the location of the stain.

Aftercare:

Oiling the area that has been hennaed can help moisturize the design and make it look better. Most oils safe for use on the skin can be used for this, baby oil, massage oil, even olive oil.

If possible, keep the Mehndi away from water for at least the first 24 hours.  If you must take a shower, apply oil to the hennaed areas to seal them against the water, and try not to scrub the area. Reapply oil after the shower as well to protect the stain. 
While the henna paste is on the skin, keeping the skin warm while the henna dries can help the stain set and get a deeper color. Humidity in the air slows the drying process. While this may be inconvenient when you have wet henna on your hands, its GREAT for staining. Steam can help boost color as well, just be careful to avoid getting too close, you don't want to burn! Steam can be used both before and after the paste is removed.

Finally, to protect the stain, avoid anything that would cause the skin to exfoliate faster; scrubs, exfoliating lotions, chemicals such as bleach, chlorine, ammonia or detergents.

Occasionally, people need a stain to disappear sooner rather than later. In this event, just follow the above rules in reverse.