RUSSIAN
ROULETTE IN SAIGON
I have a memory of ambience. And while this memory is officially
called Ho Chi Min City, most Vietnamese still call it Saigon.
At night Saigon
is the kind of city that makes you think too much because it is
so quiet. Being there gives you that inexplicable feeling one gets
from meeting a young widow wearing black. The same kind of feeling
I got that night.
The lights were
gone and we were united in somberness and sweat when he came to
pick us up. His name was Ha and the most striking feature his face
lay claim to were his teeth, which were as utterly brown as an Indian's
in Bradford. Ha played a mean Dan Tranh, a zither with sixteen strings
that, depending on his mood, could sound as Indian as it sounded
Chinese. But today Ha was just our guide and taking us to witness
the most illegal of sports - russian roulette.
We were rushed
out in trishaws, three-wheeled hand driven rickshaws that populate
the city streets. My trishaw took more twists and turns then an
extramarital affair until I simply gave up trying to remember the
way. We got off in an alley and Ha knocked rapidly on a door that
opened an inch. He spoke a few words in French and we were inside.
I stopped, stunned. It was a large hall with wooden bleachers on
the sides so that it seemed like a mini stadium. In the center was
a table with three chairs; one for the bookie and two for the contestants.
The contestants could agree to play for one two or three turns.
The higher the turns the more the odds. Should they both not make
it, the bookie kept the proceeds. I had serious reservations before
coming here, but the rest of the audience was almost drowning in
the atmosphere. Around me were at least a hundred screaming men
all standing and yelling out their bets as the bookie's assistant
went around with a hat shouting the odds and collecting the betting
chits. The light came from four huge lamps hung low from the ceiling
that peeked at me through tobacco smoke. I can still remember the
taste of that room. There has never been anything like it since.
RUSSIAN
ROULETTE IN KARACHI VIA LAHORE
It's not so easy being young and male anymore. It must have been
simpler before. You never know when it will hit you but when it
hits you, you know. In a crowded get-together with friends. Typing
at the keyboard one afternoon. Driving back from your first job.
At her place. It can be as mesmerising and as unnoticeable as the
incoming tide or it can hit you quickly, efficiently, coldly, right
in the chest and leave you gasping. We have no name for it - us
guys. It's just there. And it takes its worst form early morning
at three or four. When you wake up just barely, and the darkness
wormholes into itself and all the minor terrors that you have swept
under the carpets are magnified a million fold. And your numb mind
can only register panic at the thought of losing everything you
hold dear. Some of us deny we go through it. Some of us live with
it like an unpleasant roommate we got stuck with in college. Some
of us marry. And some just give in. It's the biggest untold male
secret because the rest of humanity - the sleeveless sex - just
wouldn't understand. Every generation has a passport to its own
loneliness. This no name feeling is ours.
It's not all
bad of course. The highs are alone worth the trip. The arrogance
of intelligence. The invulnerability of youth. The ability to be
reckless with another's heart. The age old cliched yet widely applicable
kick of defying seemingly abject authority. I can still remember
the strike I led in College. I was high for days. And when you're
young, there are long warm May afternoons when the fan turns lazily
and you're drowsy and just lie in bed for hours and the little sounds
are amplified as they ring and echo in your ears and time stands
still as Lahore glows golden through the windows.
I can still
remember how professionally and quickly the table was wiped as I
saw two people die that humid night in Saigon. Youth will go like
that. Quickly, violently, feeding the lust and frenzy of the envious
to be always replaced by more willing youth pouring hopefully through
the cracks only to be cut down again and again. I don't know what
is sadder. The fact that all we hold so important now won't matter
a damn. Or that there will be no more long warm May afternoons
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