Locking Hubs for Grand Wagoneers

    Most, if not all, Grand Wagoneers and some other full size Jeeps came with a drive flange instead of a hub. Instead of having an auto or manual hub, there is just a ring inside the hub which locks the hub permanently, similar to a full-time four wheel drive. I don't like this set up, since like a full time unit, the axles, U-Joints, and front driveshaft are always spinning. This reduces fuel mileage slightly, and also wears the front end parts very quickly. Without a steady load on the parts, like the rear, the front U-Joints tend to chatter around while they are turning, resulting in high wear. I converted my GW to manual hubs to eliminate these problems.

    Manual hubs are actually a very easy swap, requiring very few tools and minimal disassembly. The front tires should be removed to make the job a little easier, but the brakes and bearings don't have to come off, unless you want to repack your wheel bearings, which is very easy at this point.

List of tools needed:

List of parts needed:

Disassembly:

    Using the hammer and chisel or punch, you must remove the chrome outer hub cover. This is easiest if the wheel is removed first. Tap the ring around the outside edge, forcing it off from the wheel hub. This may require some firm hits. Work your way around the ring, working it off evenly. Once removed, use the snap ring pliers or screw drivers to remove the snap ring inside the wheel hub. The drive flange, a shiny steel ring, should be removed next. If it doesn't pop right off, push in on it a few times, letting it pop back out. There is a spring behind it which should push it out unless its stuck on the snap ring grooves. Disassembly is complete.

Cleaning:

    If your manual hubs are used, clean them in degreaser to remove any sludge left inside. Using wheel bearing grease, lightly grease the moving parts of the locking hubs and the inside spline of the wheel hub on the Wagoneer.

Assembly:

    Insert the hub bearing assembly (the large silver piece with splines on the inside and outside) into the wheel hub of the Wagoneer. Make sure it pushes in enough so you can see the outer snap ring grove on the axle shaft. You may have to hold the axle shaft from pushing inward by threading a bolt into the end of it and holding on to it. Install the small snap ring which came with the manual hubs onto the end of the axle shaft. Now insert the large metal ring inside the wheel hub until it seats into the groove. Install the spring into the hole inside the hub bearing assembly. Now install the hub drive ring into the same hole, holding it in place while you install the small phillips screw which should have come with your manual hubs. The screw goes into the hole in the outside of the hub bearing assembly. There are seven holes; six are evenly spaced, and are for securing the outer hub, and the seventh is for the small screw for the hub drive ring. Now make sure the outer hub is set to "unlock", then install it on the outside of the wheel hub. Secure it with the six Allen screws, and you are done this wheel.

    After you install manual hubs, if you have a vacuum operated four wheel drive switch on the dash, be VERY CAREFUL not to activate the switch if you are moving and the hubs are unlocked!!

    You may drive with the hubs unlocked for mileage or wear reasons, but if you may be using four wheel drive often, you can drive all you want with the hubs locked in to make engaging four wheel drive quicker and easier. This is especially helpful here in the northeast in the winter.

    You may want to clean the old parts you removed and keep them with the vehicle if you go off road. If you break a hub, you can easily install the old parts to get you out of the trail. If you have to do this, DON'T unlock the other hub at the end of the trail! Keep it locked until you replace the broken hub, or else one axle shaft will be spinning, which will make the spider gears in the differential wear VERY quickly.

By: James Alton

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