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This page describes the modifications needed to perform a spring over lift. I didn't go into detail about some of the work because it is basic mechanical information. Some of the modifications are just personal choice, such as which shocks to use and how to mount them.
This lift can be performed by anyone with average mechanical skill with common hand tools with the exception of a welder and an angle finder. Welding can be farmed out to a local shop, and angle finders can be purchased from a local discount tool center. For information about SPOA lifts, go to the SPOA info page. These instructions are for a Samurai lift, but can be adapted to any standard spring under axle vehicle.
Tools Required: Wrenches and sockets in these sizes: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm. Hand grinder, angle finder, jack, jack stands (4), hammer, punch.
Time Required: I performed each of my lifts in a weekend, but unless you have done this before, plan on two weekends.
Cost: Between $100 and $200 total, including new shocks, lower shock mounts, material for upper shock mounts, welding service, and new brake lines.
Step 1: Disassembly
Remove front and rear drive shafts. Using the angle finder, measure and record the vertical angle of the front axle drive shaft flange. THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT! Improper, and possibly dangerous, handling will result if this step isn't followed carefully. Jack up the Samurai and support on tall jack stands; remember, when the axles go back on, it will sit much higher. Remove the tires, front brake calipers, and rear brake lines. Remove the front sway bar and drag link. Now remove the shocks and axle U-bolts. Use plenty of penetrating oil on these, as U-bolts this size are hard to find, so you don't want to break or strip these. Now remove the front and rear shackles. You may need to use a hammer and punch to slide these out of the bushings. You should now remove the axles from under the vehicle. You can reinstall the shackles.
Step 2: Axle modification
You will have to measure the distance between the spring pads before you go any further. Now, if you are reusing your old spring pads, you will need to cut them off the axle. Using a grinder with a good grinding wheel or better yet, a cutoff wheel, carefully cut along the welds which attach the pads to the axle. Take your time and BE CAREFUL!! you don't want to cut into the axle tube! If you take some material off the pads, that will be O.K., the new weld will fill it in. If you get almost all of the weld cut but still can't remove the pads, you might be able to persuade them with a large hammer. Once the pads are off, inspect the axle tubes. If there are any marks in them deeper than a small scratch, you should have them filled in with weld before you go any further. I recommend that for clearance you move the front axle forward about 1" to keep the front tires from hitting the fender wells. To do this, drill new spring alignment holes in the front spring pads about 1" from the old holes. Now is a good time to cut the original shock mounts off the spring plates. You will need to fabricate new lower mounts to get enough wheel travel. One other modification needed is to remove the outer ends of the front bumper mounts. Large tires will rub these mounts while turning. You can make up another bumper mount or use an aftermarket bumper, or build your own.
Step 3: Assembly
Slide the axles back under the Samurai and position them under the springs. Set the spring pads into place on the axles then raise the axles to the springs. For the front axle, make sure the hole you drilled in the pads are toward the rear of the Samurai, and align the spring center pin into these holes. Bolt the U-bolts on, just snugging them but don't tighten them all the way. Do the same for the rear. Now install the tires and set the Samurai back on the ground. Using the angle finder, measure the angle of the front drive shaft flange like you did before disassembly. Adjust the axle angle until you have the same angle as when you started. The easiest way I found to do this is to start with the flange too low and slowly jack it into position. When the angle is correct, tighten the U-bolts. For the rear, I recommend that the flange be angled up slightly. Just a couple of degrees should be enough. If you plan to use new custom drive shafts with CV joints, you can angle the flange up higher. Tighten the rear U-bolts now. At this time the pads need to be welded into place. There are two ways to do this. By far the best is to tack the pads in place, remove the axles, then finish welding them. The other way is to carefully and clearly mark where the pads are to be welded, then take the whole axle to a shop to have them welded on. I don't recommend this method, as there is too mush possibility for error. Once the pads are welded, bolt the axles in place and tighten the U-bolts securely.
You will now need to modify your drag link to clear the front spring. One way to do this is to just bend an S shape into the drag link. I don't like this method for two reasons: first, once bent, the bar is weakened and the possibility for further bending is increased. Second, the usable length of the bar is shortened and the steering wheel and box will be out of adjustment. The best modification would be to have the bar lengthened and reinforced.
O.K., now you have steering. How about some shocks? I am into the LOW BUDGET scene, so I did some research before buying shocks. I wanted long travel, but soft dampening. Most aftermarket 4x4 shocks are valved too firmly for Samurais, so I looked at stock shock dimensions for different vehicles. As it turned out, some of the longest travel shocks are for the rear of early '70s Dodge trucks, both 2 and 4 wheel drive. I found that very cheap generic shocks tend to have soft valving, perfect for a Samurai. All 4 of my shocks cost me $40.
Now for shock mounts. Stock Samurai springs are almost flat, so you want your shocks to be near the middle of their travel when at rest. We'll start at the front, since the rear is pretty easy. Jack up the front of the Samurai, placing jack stands under each side of the front axle to keep it level. Remove the tires. You will need to weld a shock mount (available at any decent 4x4 shop. They just look like a large stud, usually threaded at each end.) to the lower part of the front axle. Not to the bottom; rocks would quickly rip the mount off! You want it sticking out the rear of the axle tube near the lower part. Now set the bottom of the shock into place. Compress the shock half way through the travel. You will need to measure how high the upper shock mount needs to be. The easiest way I found to extend the stock mounts is to use a piece of angle iron. Drill a hole near one end for the new shock mount stud, then either weld or bolt the lower part to the stock shock mount. Make sure the new mount is as close to the inner fender well as you can get it. You may even want to trim the inner fender to get enough clearance. When the axle articulates, the tire will tuck very far inward at the top.
For the rear, weld the lower mounts similar to the front. For the upper, you could either use shorter shocks and the stock upper mounts, resulting in limited wheel travel, or move the upper mounts inward toward the center of the truck. The easiest way to move the upper mounts is to use a piece of angle iron drilled to accept new shock mount studs. I drilled several holes in mine to allow adjustability of the upper mount. Weld the angle iron to the frame cross member.
Now you need to install longer brake lines. I won't go into detail about what lines to use, as there are numerous possibilities ranging from using two pieces of stock line joined together to purchasing aftermarket braided line. There are other makes of import trucks which use longer lines which may work also. After bleeding the brakes, you are ready for the last step.
For the drive shafts, I used spacers to lengthen the drive shafts. I make my own, but if you don't have access to machining equipment, a couple of companies make spacers you can purchase.
Test Drive
You should now be ready to test drive your Samurai. You will notice a soft ride, but you shouldn't get much body roll. I never used a sway bar, and I never had any handling problems. Find a place where you can drive a tire onto a tall obstacle, and have a friend check for clearances for the shocks and tires. I had room for 33x12.5" tires using 2" extended shackles, but many owners run 32" tires with a spring over.
By: James Alton