Stego's FAQ on India travel (Advices 2/3)


Subject:

From: [email protected] (Shyamal Prasad)

Date: 13 Jul 95

In general India is pretty *safe*. The worst that can happen is often being pick pocketed on a crowded train or bus (and there are few other types of trains and buses in India :-). Keep important papers with you at all times in a body hugging pouch of some sort. Some parts of India are not very safe, the state of Bihar comes to mind.....ask locals. Most tourist areas are very safe. This does not mean people will not try to scam you, it just means you will not get into trouble if you are careful.

> - Is it advisable to take long distance transportation such

> as over night bus or train? Can you easily get a seat in

> short notice? How about the internal flight, the `air

> pass'? Are thery goodvalue?

Yes. It may not be very comfortable unless you are prepared to pay for it. Buses are rarely a good idea overnight. They will often be noisy, and with no toilets. Trains are better value, and upper class accomodation can be pretty good (or just tolerable). Second class is the preffered way to see India if you can handle it. Flights are good value in international terms.....the air pass is pretty limited for some one who wants to spend 3-6 months in India.

Don't expect to get train/air tickets at short notice. Train reservations are hard to come by at peak times...plan ahead. Expect to spend *lots* of time purchasing tickets with reservations. India moves slowly on many things.

> - what kind of accomodation I should stick to?

Depends on your budget. For US$20 a night you can live quite comfortably. Or you could slum at US$5 night. Or splurge and spend US$200 on a really nice room in a really nice hotel. There are many, many types of hotels in India....best you take it as it comes.

> - photography: - is it advisable to carry so many camera

Can't help you much here. But in most large cities you can have film developed. It's not cheap, and not too great in quality but its there. Film is usually available, but somewhat expensive. Best you take some stocks with you, and buy as much as you can when you see something you want. But it's been a while since I've used a camera in India extensively.

The best time to go would probably be between October and early April. It's not as HOT.

Cheers

Shyamal


Subject:

From: Kurt Johnston <[email protected]>

Date: 13 Jul 95

Traveling solo in India is generally very safe (from a crime point of view, transportation accidents are another matter). On one strech of road in AP I counted four (4) TATA trucks and one (1) TATA bus wraped around trees and concrete power poles. The biggest problem you may face is losing some of your belongings to a local thief or fellow traveller. Keep you eyes on the folks around you to see who may be casing you. There are areas that you might want to avoid. Like Rural parts Bihar (so I'm told). Just use some common sense don't hang out in the back alleys of Bombay at 2:00 in the morning. Wear a money belt! Don't keep your wallet in your back pocket.

Indian trains are an experience. They're a great way to travel. Travelling by Indian rail the tourist gets to meet and talk with all strata of Indian Society (well most of it anyway). The Indian rail system is quite large and usually runs very well. Most of the system is computerized now so ticket purchases "usually" go fairly smoothly. On short notice one can hop almost any "local" or short distance train. Long distance, over night trains are a different matter. These you need to book a few days in advance (there are exceptions - if you have a Tourist Rail pass you can sometimes get onto a packed train). While I was in India I traveled 2nd and 1st class. I usually traveled 1st class if the trip was quite long. On shorter trips I used the 2nd class boggies. (I used one AC 1st class train - the Rajdani (sp?) Express from Bombay to Delhi. What a pain! Sitting up in a cramped seat for 13 hours!@#! The spacing of the seats was definetly not designed for tall people) I used Indian Air once. It was a short trip and I didn't have any problems. Others have had a much different experience.

If you want to save money stay in the cheap hotels. Most towns have quite a few of these. I stayed in a 25 Rup a night dive in Madras for a few days. No windows, Bugs! But they did provide a fan and I had my trusty old "Army Surplus" Mosquito net to keep the nasty crawlies at bay. I think the place was a brothel. I also stayed at more expensive hotels (sometimes you need a break). You could stay at various Ashrams if your into that sort of thing. I stopped at many of these. The food was simple but usually quite good.

> - is it advisable to carry so many camera equipment?

Sounds like a lot of weight to me. It depends on your purpose. If your going to India to shoot pics for a book or National Geograhic then you'll need all that gear. If your just shooting for yourself then take less. I'm somewhat into photograhy and I took two camera bodies along. I ended up just using my Nikon F3 with a Nicor zoom. That in and of itself was enough weight. I stored my unwanted gear at a friend's place in Delhi.

> - how do you generally take care of your equipment? (from theft > or other hazard).

My camera and lens were always carried in a fairly large fanny pack that I modifed. It spent a lot of time around my waist.

> - what do you do for your exposed film, send it home, have it

> developed, or just carry it with you for the whole trip?

I shot mostly Kodacrome and the nearest developer was in Singapore. I carried some with with me and stored some at friend's places. I think I used a total of 36 rolls over six months.

NOTE: Next time I go I think I'll leave the Nik at home and spend more time enjoying the experience than trying to get the perfectly composed photograph.

>- what is your experience when come to taking pictures of the local

> people (kids, old people, women..., in the cities, country side...)

> there? should I ask for permission before I take?

Depends on the circumstances. Sometimes I asked permission others times I just took the shot very quickly without the subject even knowing I was there. Avoid taking shots of Muslim women. Most temples don't like you taking pictures of the deities. You should also probably refrain from taking pictures of Military installations. When in doubt - Ask.

>- what are the `must see' places in your opinion?

Khojaharo (sp?), Almost any rural village, A few of the big temples down south - like Chidambaram, A hill station or two - ie Kodacanal, The back waters of Kerala, Rural Andra farms, Old Delhi, Bombay, Madras (I didn't make it to Calcutta), An Ashram or two, Hampi, Ajanta caves, Delhi train museum, Israel Booshi's little restaurant in Kodacanal, The Thar desert in Rajastan - Puskar, Goa, Rishikesh and the foothills of the Himalayas, Puri and Konarka (early morning sun rise!!).... The list is endless

Oh yea, there is the typical tourist triangle of the north. Delhi - Jaipur Agra if you want to see some of the most "well known" sites like the Taj and such. If you go to Agra do visit the fort there. I think it is much more interesting then the Taj.

+ many other places!

- when is the best time to go to such plases?

Generally The best time to be in India is from November to March or so. If you plan on spending time up in the Himalayas then summer may be better (Winter temps can be quite low. I'm not sure when the monson hits the North)

>- how do you find the people there? are they generally friendly

> and approachable?

In general the people of India are very friendly, but reserved. Most tourists never get to see the real India. They pass through so fast. I stayed on a farm for three months and spent some time in a very small village in Andra. The best experience of my trip!

One thing about India that is a real pain - the bureaucracy. Shit, it took me four hours once to change money! There will be times when the "system" will try your patience and you'll want to chuck it all and get the hell out. Hopefully these events will be few. Just stay cool and maybe slow down a bit.

Someday you'll laugh at the experience.

> - any recommendations on itinerary?

Not enough info. Depends a lot on your interests. Email me for more info.

>I'll also be appreciated if you can give me a brief description of your >itinerary and how much money spend.

I landed in Delhi, spent three weeks there. Stayed at a hotel for a week then moved in with the family of a friend.

Went to Agra, Stayed for two weeks. Worked at a hospital fitting eye glasses (the founder of the hospital is from my home town)

Flew to Khojaharo, Thought about going to Varnasi, Got sick, canceled plans.

Took train to Hyderabad, Stayed for a week in Secunderabad with friends. Explored the hills around Hyderabad.

Train to Yellamanchili AP (near Vizag), Stayed for three months with an Indian organization doing rural development work (NO! I wasn't a missionary with a church group)

Bus to small village in southern AP. Stayed for a week with a family (the highlight of the trip!)

Back to the farm via bus + Tata Tanker truck + Bulloc Cart

Train up into Orrisa. Bus to Puri and Konak.

Train to Madras, Spent week walking around, Bus to Pondicherry (stayed at the Sri Aurobindo Ashram Hotel on the beach - clean and well kept)

The temple hop begins:

Chidambaram, Thanjur, Tritchi, and others.

Kodacanal for a week of Israel Booshis and the Tibetian brother's Cuisine, Bus to Maduri, Bus to KanyaKumari, Bus to Kerala and Kovalam Beach, Various trips through the state, Train to Coimbatore, bus to Otty, Bus to Mysore, Bus to Bangalore, Bus to Hampi, Train back to Madras.

Train to Secunderabad (pickup stored stuff), Train to Puna, Train to Bombay, Train to Delhi.

Train to Jaipur, Bus to Puskar, Bus back to Jaipur, Train back to Delhi.

Train to Haridwar, Bus to Rishikesh, Bus around the area, Bus and train back to Delhi.

Fly out for Malaysia, mid May....

Trip Costs:

Ticket (1989) : $1300 US from Minneapolis to Delhi via Tokyo and KL, Malaysian Air (Only airline with a one year return)

Other $ Spent: About $3000 (I lived rather cheaply)

Kurt Johnston

AT&T GIS

PS Bring a mosquito net! A good one at that.


Subject:

From: [email protected] (margaret loo)

Date: 14 Jul 95

I've travelled over a great part of India by myself, a lone woman. It is usually very safe. You have to use common sense. The most you have to fear from are the cows. If a cow is wandering across the road, the cow has the right of way and your driver may careen into the ditch other than this you should consider yourself quite safe when travelling in India. They are a very civilized people.

> - is it advisable to take long distance transportation such as over > night bus or train?

Why not? The trains are frequent and there are several classes. The only thing is not to wear a white suit. Sometimes the trains are coal-burning and all the soot flies backwards along the train. You have to keep the train window open because of the heat. On the other hand, you may have wanted to dye that white suit black anyhow.

The buses in India, as in Nepal and all throughout that part of the world are very COLORFUL. They are usually very sturdy. Try to ride on top of the bus on top of the baggage or seated right over the driver's cab. It's a wonderful experience. Especially when the bus is careening around a mountain trail and you look down - it's a sheer two thousand feet to the bottom. Great! I've never felt as carefree and as adventuresome as when riding on an Indian bus in the mountains. Also the mountains are beautiful. And the most gorgeous men are the Sikhs in full uniform - but you may not be interested in this.

Can you easily get a seat in short notice?

Public transportation is usually packed. You should be able to get a ticket, long or short notice. You should check as soon as you arrive someplace - or even better make an advance purchase.

> - how about the internal flight, the `air pass'? Are thery good

> value?

If you have that much time, I would go via surface. The internal Indian airline serves the worst food possible - there is only one airline where the food is worst, the internal China airline. On the other hand, you may want to fly from North to South India. It's not too long a flight and you can skip the food.

> - what kind of accomodation I should stick to?

I've stayed in some of the cheapest and some of the most expensive places. On the cheaper end, make certain the place is fairly clean (no BEDBUGS!) and that you can shower. It's critical with the heat to be able to shower - so see if you can get to inspect the shower before you pay your money. Indian soap also is not always as smooth as what you will find elsewhere.

> >- photography:

> - is it advisable to carry so many camera equipment?

Nope. If you are going into the villages, they are sometimes very poor. You do not want to tempt the one person in the village who is not too honest.

I usually travel with one backpack. Critical to my packing are: Imodium (you WILL get a running tummy, no matter what and Imodium is the lifesaver), roll of toilet tissue squashed flat, kleenex, suntan lotion, sunglasses, a safari hat, several changes of clothing all dripdry for a quick wash at night (dries quickly in the heat), sometimes I'll get Indian clothing as they are perfect for the Indian climate. Also Indian clothing tends to cover the whole body, which is good protection from the sun. And traveller's cheques. you can usually get a MUCH better exchange rate on the street ( oh, oh, did I say that?)

> - how do you generally take care of your equipment? (from theft

> or other hazard).

By leaving it at home.

> - what do you do for your exposed film, send it home, have it

> developed, or just carry it with you for the whole trip?

India has the same one-hour development as elsewhere. My trips are usually shorter and I like to develop my film in Singapore. quality is great in S'pore.

> - what is your experience when come to taking pictures of the local > people (kids, old people, women..., in the cities, country side...)

> there? should I ask for permission before I take?

I do. Not only in India, but wherever I go. If you are taking pictures, say from a train, I always found that a friendly wave first helps to get a better picture.


Subject: Photo advices.

From: Lars Bindzus <[email protected]>

Date: 19 Jul 95

It is good to have a bag where the equipment is safe against dust and humidity. Repairing your camera is difficult. I found a shop in Calcutta that repaired mine. In the meantime I could photograph...

> - what is your experience when come to taking pictures of the local

> people (kids, old people, women..., in the cities, country side...)

> there? should I ask for permission before I take?

You should ask them for permission (if you were been photographed you would like to be asked, too!). This is why I bought a tele zoom (70-210). Brilliant pictures and no offended persons :-) But again, I avoid taking pictures of religous scenes or similar situations where I know that this is not allowed or liked.

> - what are the `must see' places in your opinion?

The Taj Mahal is brilliant with or without tourists, but best on full moon!

> - how do you find the people there? are they generally friendly

> and approachable?

Every visitor of India has to make his own expiriences. In general the people are special :-)

Beste Gruesse,

Lars



Subject: Goa (travelling around and advices)

From: [email protected] (Helen Hodgkinson)

Date: 7 Jan 96

> > I'm going to travel to Goa/Galangute in few days

> and I still have some questions.

> > How to get to the Dudhsagas water falls from Galangute (North Goa)?

From Calangute the easiest way to Dudhsagar Falls is by railway. You get the connection in Murmugao (Marago) which is back across the Mandovi river and the Zuari river, back to (very close to), the Airport you will land at - Dabolim.

I think this will prove to be an all day, possibly, an over night stay, the roads are convoluted and travelling takes longer than you think. If you do decide to go the train takes you to the Falls, leaves you there then returns later in the day, so apacked lunch is essential. It is however well worth the visit.

> Is it expensive to rent the car with the driver?

Three years ago when we were there, it cost about 50 rupees an hour, this was cheap. However you must bargin for any rates, particularly half or full days.

Agree the price before getting into the taxi and make sure to shake hands on the deal as this is considered binding by the driver. By Western standards Taxis are cheap, but the cost over long distances, is not negligable. I suggest,strongly, trying the local buses and three wheel motorised rickshaws for shorter jouneys. Culture shock they are, but very great fun, and you get a truer feel for India.

> Is there anything my lady should know to avoid problems

> with the local men?

India, unlike Africa (where I found a problem,) the men seemed friendly and not at all a problem. Even in the evening I felt completely comfortable to wander around by myself. However, do be prepared to be approached by beach vendors, shop keepers and any body with anything to sell, coming to you hasselling you to buy their goods. Be firm "Go away" if you are not interested, or bargin down to at least a third, or less of the asking price if it is somthing you really want, I got a beautiful coral necklace from a beach gypsy that at first I didn't want, but the lady persisted, and 2hours later I got it for about 50p.(English money!)

> Any MUSTs?

Do see alocal (non tourist preferably) market town- can recommend Mapusa. As alreaady said the local transport is a must.

Possible purchase of the book "Window on Goa" by Maurice Hall ISBN 1-870948-71-8 an excellent travel book and avery interesting book to read.

> Any DONOTs?

1. Do not be taken in intimidated by, people pretending to by a 'friendly helpful guide'; they are usually just after your money, and lots of it! 2. obvious to any travel, do not touch any local water ie. ice cubes, or any milk drinks in beach shacks, basically where there is no form of refridgeration available. (Do however, try the beach shacks as they are very good quality and value for money).

Thanks,

Helen Hodgkinson ([email protected])


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