TRANS – MALAYSIA JUNE RIDE
Getting up…
There I was, with my head
low under the screen. I could see the most gracious curve ahead of me, a nice
sweeping bend to the right, with the hills to the left side and a steep drop on
the right. The sunlight that breaks through the cloudy sky highlights the white
strip and the tarmac before the curve looks you back with the most tempting
invitation to take her on. Beep …. Beep …. Beep….. suddenly, the image ahead of
me dims as if the ever victorious sunshine was being outnumbered by the
numerous dark clouds. My eyes opened to revealed my room ceiling. Yes, it was
that everyday battle again with the Z- monster and his seductive sidekick, Mr.
Evil Mattress. Well, bad luck for him this morning as I have a considerable
boost in will power today from my powerful V4 perks. A quick look at the clock
shows 0430 hrs.
Before long, I was already
warming the bike for the long awaited ride. Of course, being the last and then
suffer the fate of “blan-jah-ing” breakfast also played a part in pushing that
sleepy butt. Nevertheless, the rhythmic whine from the cam gears broke the
silence of the serene morning as I head towards Tuas checkpoint.
Alas, I pull into Gelang Patah Esso and noticed two
figures already in the dark background. I recognized immediately the silhouette
of a GS and the familiar outline of an Interceptor, each standing by a pump
station. I pulled up with haste and quickly filled her up. Yup, as late as the
rabbit was in Wizard of Oz, I admitted my defeat with time as my two compatriot
were quick to claim a free breakfast.
First
Stop …. Bak Kut Teh?! Or was it Won Ton Noodle.
Without much talk, we
prepped up and moved off by 0545 for our breakfast stop, the town of Yong Peng.
The first stage of the trip was to be highway bound. I was actually glad, as it
would be a nice warm up ride for me. Fairly easy riding for the entire journey
as traffic was very light with that cool lingering morning air. Lead bike was
the beemer, with me trailing (too close for comfort actually) and Mr Blue
Pigeon (VFR) making sure I am on track along the way. As I was told at the gas
station, we were to exit from Yong Peng Utara and not Yong Peng, I suppose it
makes a world of difference there and I was paying full attention to the road
signs for the right exit. With a moderate speed of 130 kph, we arrived at our
destination in under an hour after clocking 109 km on the meter. The town of
Yong Peng was still sleeping as we arrived.
A previous experience with a famous Bak Kut Teh stall (Pork Rib Tea, yup you heard it right.) made
us decide to do a last minute U-turn whom we are quite determined to find early
in the wee hours of the morning.
Andrew pulled the signal and
decided to make the turn on a two-way traffic lane. As he was already 90
degrees into the U-turn, a fairly big object zoomed passed in front of him,
missing his front rim by merely a feet! I was behind him towards the left side
of the road waiting for my chance to make the turn. However, after a shocking
sight from a close shave such as this, I was very much left dumb founded. And
as per anyone whom is left dumb founded, he gets rewarded with an “excuse
privilege card” to perform one moronic act. I $%@# dropped my 203 kg ride.
Everybody in sight,
(actually only Andrew and David) rushed to me with utmost urgency to help me
lift up the bike, checked if I was ok, and laughed it all off. Of course, only
David and I did the laughing as Andrew was probably still too shock with his
personal close encounter.
Well, with so much action packed into only the first
leg of our journey, it was no wonder we got so hungry. By the way, we never did
find that Pork Rib Tea Stall but ended up with Malaysia’s
second most common food stall, Won Ton Noodle. We were of course very much
welcomed by the food storeowner and had the heartiest breakfast anyway. During
the stop, I also received a couple of feedback “ease up a little…. you are following
too close”. Which is good. So for the
next leg, I start the learning process to maintain the distance, being just
able to keep the beemer’s taillight in sight where it should be, not in the
face.
First fuel stop
Took a 1 hour rest and soon it
was already 0700hrs. Time to move off to our next stop, Segamat. However, one
look ahead into the distant clouds revealed that it was unusually dark for a
0700hr morning sky. Rain…. nevertheless, I put on my rain pants in anticipation
for some wet riding. True enough; it started pouring as soon as we kick into
first gear.
As with every fully
protected ride in the wet, I have an added sense of security. Feeling all warm
and fuzzy in my water-proof suit, we were to enter the so called “back roads”
of Malaysia. It was basically two-lane to and fro traffic, meandering through
small villages, oil palm plantations and occasionally rice paddy fields. The
ride was at a relatively relaxed pace. We were on average traveling at 110 kph.
Fortunately for us, the pouring rain did not last long and the sunshine pierce
through the dark clouds to dry the tarmac. The whizzing scenery on the sides
was spectacular with golden highlighted plantations and waking villages. For
city bumps like me, it was very relaxing to be able to breathe in the fresh
morning air and get back in touch with nature. And nothing makes it better than
being able to ride while balancing your Yin and Yang. It was to be another 80
km before we arrive at our first stop for gas.
Fuel consumption was relatively
good for the VFR. It’s a sport tourer after all. Upon reaching the station and
after accumulating a total of 183 km since Gelang Petah R & R (Starting
point), the tank was only half depleted. Nevertheless, I do not want to take
any chances waiting for the next fill up station. Did a quick stop at the
little men’s room and had a 10 min rest. By this time, it was showing 1030hrs
and we had apparently made considerably good time. The sky was in our favour by
now beaming at its full morning glory.
Route 12
The stop was short but
beneficial. After everyone has freshen up enough we continued on our journey,
this time leaving the state of Johor and hopping onto route 12 to enter Pahang.
This route took us northeast and towards the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia;
towards the majestic South China Sea.
The journey was relaxing, as
road conditions were fairly good while traffic conditions improved once we got
out of Segamat. Once again, this route consist of backroads that are weaving
across sparse forest and occasionally, very dense plantations. Along the way,
we came across some Singapore registered vehicles traveling in the same
direction.
Upon hitting approx 79km, we
made a rest stop at a small petrol kiosk for 15 min. I am actually very
appreciative of these occasional stops.
It was a quick stop and soon
we were on our way again. The ride so far was mostly at the rural outskirts of
the individual states. At that time of the day, traffic was still reasonably
light and we did not face much opposition. Our pace so far was not demanding
and the three of us were cruising at our own pace. As route 12 ended in another 81km, we made a right and head
towards Kuantan on route 3. Since this was to be a more densely populated town,
traffic was soon becoming intense as we approach the city. Furthermore, by now,
it was slightly past midday.
We carried on taking care
not to lose each other in the crowded roads. The town’s infrastructure was
similar to Johor Bahru with its gray buildings and typical high white/black
road kerbs. As we depart the city road, we met our first police stop. I am sure
everyone’s mind at that moment must be thinking, “we are about to depart with
some cash soon…” There was a fairly long jam as the men in blue scans through
the traffic one by one, waving at them to proceed while some to pull over the
road side. It was our turn soon as I kept my finger crossed. He waved and
signaled to pulled us to the road side. We dismounted and while looking at the
officer with the most sympathetic, “puppy” look, the officer made a gesture,
signaling us to show him our licenses. To our relief, it turned out to be some
routine check and I never felt more obedient with authorities. But then again,
I guess with our outstanding machines, it would almost be certain he would flag
us down. We made some small talk as he asked about our bikes looking impressed.
While we were quite relieved that we managed to save some cash, we were happy
to answer his questions and get out of there asap.
One big problem with long distance
touring I have noticed is about physical hydration. On one hand, you very well
understand the need to replenish your body fluids at every chance you got
during rests as you perspire like a pig while riding in that hot sun. However,
while keeping that in mind, what goes in usually has to exit too. Other than
through the pores in your skin, I cannot think of anywhere else your body
expels excess liquids, except……I guess when a man has got to go, he got to go.
I made a hasty turn into the
kiosk. Instinct took over immediately and led me to the nearest toilet.
Occupied. OK, no problem. We wait. Couldn’t wait anymore? Get in touch with
nature then. Everything that turned pale just a while ago (hey… what you
thinking) came back to mind again, and then you realized, where is the lead
bike?!!
At the kiosk with me was
David. He was just recovering from “wonder why he made that fuel stop??” and
was just about to break into laughter after witnessing a biker turned
desperado, when he too realized to break in contact. With haste, I got on my
bike and continued on our way to catch up with the Beemer.
It was to be a total of 226 km since our first fuel
stop, minus the “emergency” stop, as we pull into Chendor Shell Petrol Kiosk
for the second fuel stop of the day. By this time, the fuel clock shows only ľ
depleted. With another 100km more to go, I topped up the tank anyway. After,
refueling, I just realized we missed something, lunch.
It was my first great trip, and
I guess the enthuasism at that moment might have over shadowed my hunger
because all I remember was like having only a “hotdog” bun which lasted the
entire day while the sun was shining. Fortunately, frequent ‘lunch skipping’
exercises in the office fully prepared me for this occasion and I was not
really bothered by it at that moment.
The last stretch of this
journey along route 3 involves riding along the eastern coastline of Peninsular
Malaysia. According to the map, it already looked very tempting. After the
adjoining route 2 becomes route 3 eventually, before you was a long straight
open road where to the right is the majestic view of the mighty South China Sea
accompanied with a sweet scent subtle rustling of the coconut trees. On the
left a row of attap village shop house selling “goreng pisang’ (Fried Banana
Fritters), merry children’s living carefree lives while occupying themselves
with simple and interesting traditional kampong games. Despite the slight
breaking aches in the buttocks, I was keen to absorb the aura of paradise. It
is not everyday that city boys like us get to savor such magnificent picture
before us that comes complete with such alluring satisfactions to the sensory.
I dun remember meeting an astronaut in the east cost?
With such captivating
sceneries, I would rather indulge completely in the view ahead and has thus
forgotten to look at the trip meter when we started with route 3. However, with
estimation from the map, such coastline ride stretched for about 120 km with the
last 50-70 km of route 3 drifting away from the coastline itself.
After that, it was another
50km from Kg Lucas Esso Kiosk, our last stop for the day, before we arrive at
Kota Bahru where we spend the night. The total mileage clocked was approx. 728
km for the entire day. This was an achievement for my amateur riding career and
it was definitely the longest so far.
Kg. Merchang – Ice Cream Stop
Kg Lucas – 50km from Kota Bahru (last reststop for day),
totally buffed but satisfied.
Day 2 –
Canyon Route 4
Everybody cannot wait to
wake up the next day despite the long and tiring day before. This phase of the
trip will bring us from the east coast of Peninsular Malaysia to the west
before we cross the border northwards to enter Thailand. There is only one
route that we have been anxiously waiting for that will not only bring us to
across the country (literally), it will (so I have been told) bring forth to
your puny lives the best twisties Asia has to offer. But before that, a 20-min
fuel stop at Jeli Esso Kiosk to replenish the magic juice for our rides and
isotonic H2O for our body. Nothing better than a trip to the little boys room
to complete the full revitalizing treatment before we let all hell break loose.
The stretch of ride consist of approx 130 km of canyon rides with corners of
every kind imaginable to satisfy almost every knee-dropping enthusiasts in
Asia. With the steep embankment on one side that will undisputedly bring you to
nirvana should you yearn to challenge its prowess; I was praying that my tires
are up to the tasks ahead so that I would survive the valley to write you this
tale.
Meditation routine with a towel
helps to focus your body and mind for the challenging tasks ahead. Try it and
feel the difference.
Nothing can describe the
excitement we had for the twisties. The sun was shining gloriously, the traffic
was light in the valleys. Perfect for loads of cornering fun. Somewhere in the
middle of the canyons is a small lake. Our route takes us across this lake
where right smack in the center is a small island about 5 km in length.
Nevertheless, I shall leave you with the limited photos we have taken over
stretch for your viewing pleasure. Twisties, here we come.
Betong,
Thailand
Like it or not, all fun has
to end sometime and the stretch of canyon roads leads you to the small town of
Gerik. From here, it is another 20-30km of backroad riding to the town of
Penkanan Hulu, the last town before we cross the borders to Thailand.
With the guidance of my
accompanying riders, crossing the borders was a set of routine procedures where
every step was pre-orchestrated. At the Malaysian border, our aim was to clear
the customs as fast as possible to attract minimal attention; least some customs
officers get curious about your shining steed and begins to demand for “coffee”
money. After getting the passports stamped, it was about 300m to the customs at
the Siamese side. Clearing the customs was a breeze, thanks to my experienced
counterparts. For some apparent reasons, the immigration forms are printed in
Thai and you have to pay someone at the stand to fill it up for you. Not a bad
way to make a few quick bucks. Getting the passports stamped was no much of a
problem and soon we are on our way to our final destination in Thailand, the
town of Betong. We made good time and arrived in the town at about 1330hrs.
Checked in to the hotel, had a refreshing bath and we were just in time for a
sumptuous lunch. After that, we were left with only one thing to do that would
make even our Western biking counterparts in the French Alps jealous. No hanky
panky, just 3 hours straight of genuine bone breaking, muscle relaxing, spirit
revitalizing traditional Thai massage. This is a prescription I would recommend
for just about any biker after such a long, arduous journey.
By the time we wake up from
our royalty treatment, it was time for dinner. With the strong SGD, we were
living like kings in the Siamese town. A seafood feast for dinner was in order.
And after the dinner, with the hustle and bustle of town center and its night
life in full swing, we were back to the massage parlour again, yet for another
mesmerizing session. This is life like I never lived before….
The ride
home
After indulging like royalty
in what the little town of Betong has to offer, we were almost reluctant about
leaving the next morning. We woke up in the morning sunrise and a sleeping town
still dosed out from last nights activities, to have yet another sumptuous meal
of “dim sum” for breakfast. Nothing like a superb meal to recharge your energy
for yet another adventure.
We prepped up after the meal
and were soon checking out of the hotel to be on our way to the Thai border
only 10km away. From this point on, it was the same route in reverse order.
However, instead of going back from route 4, we remained on Route 76 towards
Lengong, Kuala Kangsar and eventually onto the North-South Highway spanning
from Bukit Kayu Hitam up at the Malayan-Thai border right down to Singapore in
the south.
And the rest of the trip was
mostly highway riding up till Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia where we
spent the night in a luxurious hotel.
It is never over. The spirit
of riding continues to burn in all of us who understand what motorcycles are
all about. We will never be contented with the amount of distance we cover and
we will continue to yearn for more. Live to ride or tour for that matter. Or so
they say, it never ends till the fat lady sings……(if she can wake up in time
that is.) Until next time…….
Figure 1
Above: It never ends till the fat lady sings that is if she can manage to stay
awake.
Below: The capital city of Kuala Lumpur.
