Tasting of New World Chardonnays, Darmstadt, April 2000
Words by Neil Jenkins
This
tasting took place on 4 April 2000 at the house of Marc and Donatella Gorman in Pfungstadt near Darmstadt, Germany. From an invited group of locally-based wine lovers, twelve keen and eager tasters were assembled on the night with palates cleansed and noses ready to sniff. The tasters covered a good cross-section of nationalities from around the world - german, french, scottish, peruvian and english.
The theme "New World Chardonnay" had been selected many months before at a previous (less well-attended!) tasting at my house. The plan was this: The organisers (Marc Gorman and myself) would purchase and assemble a group of Chardonnay wines from as many New World countries as possible, whilst trying to:
- Maintain an average cost of around 15-20 DEM per bottle;
- Aim at having around 15 different wines to taste;
- Focus on wines available locally (where possible).
We actually achieve 16 wines at an average cost just below 20 DEM, with 13 of them being bought locally (see Cost and Source information presented with the tasting notes below).
As well as aiming for Chardonnays from a cross-section of New World countries, we also aimed at providing two aspects of potentially further interest. Firstly, we took advantage of the current availabilty of Chardonnays from Cono Sur in Chile, and selected the 1996, 1997 and 1998 Rapel Valley Chardonnays from this estate for a small vertical tasting. Secondly, we took the opportunity to throw in a couple of "oddities": A Chardonnay from Slovenia, and the much written about Antonopoulos Chardonnay (1998) from Greece. (I know these are not "New World", but we just couldn't resist!)
The wines were chilled ready for tasting and were presented in pairs or triplets, with the aim being to present the wines of one country or region side-by-side. They were presented in the following rough order: Chile, Argentina, California, Washington State, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, Slovenia and Greece.
The costs of the individual wines (also presented with the tasting notes below) were not revealed until tasting (and scoring!) was completed.
Tasters were invited to use a 20-point scord card which was developed for this tasting. This card was devised by myself but was based on other score cards available in wine literature and through the internet. It is also designed to respect the proportions given to the eye, nose, palate, and overall assessment used in the famous 100-point scoring system of Robert Parker. Therefore, all scores (out of 20) presented below can be cast into the Parker system by multiplying by 2.5 and adding 50 (which has been done in brackets).
The tasting notes below are a summary of the views expressed and recorded by all the tasters present at the tasting. My own views are "blended" (I refer to myself as one of the tasters). The notes are presented not in the order in which they were tasted, but in the order of their resulting average scores, with the winning wine appearing first. (Note - all prices are rounded up to the nearest DEM or £.)
- Montana Chardonnay, Marlborough, New Zealand, 1998
- Average Group Score: 15.7 (89)
- Cost and Source: 16 DEM, Karstadt (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
This wine won many friends around the tasting table, producing flattering comments and one or two "ooh" and "aah" sounds! Most tasters scored it highly, and with the exception of a solitary 10 from one taster all scores were grouped between 14 and 18½, and was the top-rated wine of no less than four tasters. With a young, very light straw colour, this wine would have scored higher were the nose more intense. However, tasters noted its aroma as being "clean and classy" and exhibiting walnuts and almonds, butter, vanilla, apricot, as well as some oaky hints. On the palate, it showed good concentration and balance and was considered "smooth and silky", "classy without being too complex", possessing "slight oakiness", and showing "peach and pineapple" fruit and a "peachy aftertaste". One taster exclaimed with great enthusiasm during the tasting "it's so bright, lively and expressive". We all had to agree. At 16 DEM (around £5) a bottle, this wine represented very good value for money.
- Massoni Red Hill Chardonnay, Victoria, Australia, 1995
- Average Group Score: 14.2 (85)
- Cost and Source: 35 DEM (normally 60 DEM), Weinlager Rolf Müller (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
This wine produced the most consistent set of scores on the night, with scores ranging from 12 to 17, although only one taster had it as their top-rated wine. Light gold in colour, it had a fairly intense, expressive nose that was considered "quite classy", showing an "oaky backbone", and exhibiting cooked fruit, eucalyptus, butter and apricot aromas. On the palate, it showed great concentration and balance for most tasters. Some spoke of its oaky vanilla, creamy, buttery, citrus flavours with caramel and a "classy finsh" of good length, while one taster found it "harsh on [the] aftertaste, metallic, too acid".
- Dalwhinnie Chardonnay, Australia, 1996
- Average Group Score: 13.8 (84)
- Cost and Source: 30 DEM (now 60 DEM), Weinlager Rolf Müller (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
This was the top wine of the evening according to three of the tasters, but a wide spread of scores from other tasters for this light golden wine prevented it attaining better than 3rd place. Most tasters liked its open, quite intense aromas, speaking of vanilla and "somewhat cake-like" aromas. On the palate, it was liked by most tasters although they differed slightly in their interpretation, some saying it was "light and delicate" while others said it was "round, rich and elegant". It had a good long finish, which one taster described as possessing "slight spice".
- Antonopoulos Chardonnay, Greece, 1998
- Average Group Score: 13.5 (84)
- Cost and Source: £11, Oddbins (UK)
- Notes:
The decision of the organisers (OK, well me!) to put this wine on at the end somewhat backfired! Not only were the noses and palates of most tasters saturated by the time they picked up their 16th glass, but the mere presence of the word "Greece" on the scorecard list caused most people to consider the evening officially wound down. This is sad, because for one taster at least (!) this was the best wine of the evening. Only four of the twelve tasters felt like scoring it, and those four scores represented the greatest spread of scores for the whole evening ... two 17's, and 13½ and a 6! One taster simply wrote two words, "no way"! This wine has shown so well at big-name tastings around the world and is getting rave reviews from some of the world's most picky wine writers. As such, I am convinved that pre- or mis-conceptions play a vital part in our ability to assess a wine. Were this wine tasted blind alongside the others this evening I'm confident it would have got a higher placing. That said, some tasters did feel moved to say something nice about the Antonopoulus. One taster who didn't score the wine wrote "I liked it". The four who did score it regarded it as having a quite intense nose of some complexity, showing "oaky and floral" fragrances and "elegance", while on the palate it was "rich, full", well-balanced with "citrus" flavours, and giving a "long, elegant" finish.
- Mirrool Creek Chardonnay, Miranda Wines, Australia, 1997
- Average Group Score: 13.4 (83)
- Cost and Source: 16 DEM, Weinlager Rolf Müller (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
With scores ranging from 9 to 16½, this wine won both friendship and indifference. With a light gold colour, two tasters particularly liked the nose, one noting "nutmeg, butter, peaches, oak" and another finding "dates, honey, pancakes and syrup!". On the palate it was "rich and citrusy" with a "peachy finish". There were also written cries of "very good" and "excellent". The discord prevalent in the remainder of the ranks spoke of "not round, but OK" and "nothing distinctive, a nice enough taste but nothing bright". However, given the score, and the possible opinions, plus the fact that this wine retails for 16 DEM (about £5) a bottle, it would seem to be good value for money.
- Nederburg Chardonnay, Paarl, South Africa, 1998
- Average Group Score: 12.8 (82)
- Cost and Source: 10 DEM, Wal Mart (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
Another wine to score fairly consistently from all tasters. Showing a light straw colour, most tasters found this to be rather light on both the nose and the palate. The nose was considered "light" with "simple oak and vanilla" with "a greeness behind it". On the palate it was considered a "classic chardonnay, but a bit disjoint and watery" by one taster, while others echoed this view by writing "simple, bit disjoint", and others went further in saying that the wine was "not very good" and "OK to dull"!
- Le Bonheur Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 1996
- Average Group Score: 12.2 (81)
- Cost and Source: 16 DEM, Weinlager Rolf Müller (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
Light gold in colour, this wine showed a fairly intense nose displaying "elegant oak and vanilla", and aromas of "grass, leaves, peppermint, margarine". On the palate, it was considered "meaty, full, intense" and "rich and elegant", showing flavours of "shellfish" and "oaky vanilla". On the down side, one taster remarked on its "strange finish", while another who had tasted this wine previously summed it up by saying "still a disappointment".
- Château Ste. Michelle Chardonnay, Washington State, USA, 1994
- Average Group Score: 11.9 (80)
- Cost and Source: 17 DEM, Weinlager Rolf Müller (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
This was the only wine of the evening to achieve a full 20 points from a taster. However, this scoring was way and above the views of the other tasters, who were generally of the impression that this light straw-coloured wine was sound but ordinary. The nose was rather closed, with one taster recording "light, simple but spicy aromas, but needs coaxing", while others wrote "meaty on the bouquet" and "I can't believe it's not butter!". The palate was considered "light with mature flavours" and "fleshy" with a "spicy finish". The variety of views showed in the summing up, with comments ranging from "excellent" and "I liked it" to "disappointing watery aftertaste".
- Cono Sur Chardonnay, Rapel Valley, Chile, 1998
- Average Group Score: 11.8 (80)
- Cost and Source: £5, Wine Rack (UK)
- Notes:
This was the first wine of the Cono Sur vertical tasting. Surprisingly golden for its youth, this wine was praised for its fairly intense nose of "mint, leaves, lots of esters" and "lemons, pears, red apples". However, it was on the palate that the disappointment crept in ("touch acidic", "too much acid" and "a bit clawing"), although others tasters referred to its "good balance and complexity" and "warm finish of pears and peaches".
- Trivento, Viña Patagonia Chardonnay, Argentina, 1998
- Average Group Score: 11.5 (79)
- Cost and Source: 15 DEM, Karstadt (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
Light straw in colour, this wine exhibited "clean, ripe aromas" and "pear drops" on the nose, although one taster wrote of its being "metallic on the nose". On the palate, it was "light, clean and simple" and "pleasant", showing "honey" flavours and leading to a "shortish, but clean" finish.
- Cono Sur Chardonnay, Rapel Valley, Chile, 1996
- Average Group Score: 11.5 (79)
- Cost and Source: 9 DEM, Toom Markt (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
This wine had a light golden colour and fairly intense aromas of "pears, peaches, cooked apples" and "esters, almonds, mothballs, nitroglycerine[!], butter". On the palate, views were mixed. Some tasters liked its "pineapple" flavours and its "peachy aftertaste", while others complained that it was "bitter" or had a "bitter aftertaste". However, given that most people found this 9 DEM (£3) wine approachable, it would seem fair value for the price.
- Viña de Santa Isabel, Nieto y Senetiner, Chardonnay, Argentina, 1998
- Average Group Score: 11 (78)
- Cost and Source: 13 DEM, Karstadt (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
Light straw colour, with "interesting earthy, woody aromas" and "bitter apples and parafin" on the nose. One the palate, it was considered "buttery" with "citrus" flavours and a "nice balance", while one taster suggested that it might be slightly oxidised and described a "slightly odd finish". Overall, views varied from "fruity, bright and clean" to "nothing special" and "bitter - not my taste".
- Gorice Jeruzalem Chardonnay, Kupljen Jozhe, Slovenia, 1998
- Average Group Score: 9.1 (73)
- Cost and Source: 16 DEM, Weinlager Rolf Müller (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
Light straw colour, with a "simple but open" nose showing "flowery" aromas and volatile acids. No one had much to report on the palate, save for comments of "slightly dusty!" and some "fruity flavours". Overall comments were not too flattering; "thin and flat", "no way - too acidic" and "light, but you think in the end you drank water!". One taster felt that this was the first wine of the evening that didn't taste of Chardonnay.
- Gallo Sonoma, Laguna Ranch Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, California USA, 1996
- Average Group Score: 8.5 (71)
- Cost and Source: 35 DEM (normally 50 DEM), Weinlager Rolf Müller (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
This was, without doubt, the biggest disappointment of the evening. More should be expected of a wine costing normally around 50 DEM (about £17) a bottle (although remember that tasters were not informed about the cost of the wine during the tasting). Gallo is the single biggest producer of wine in the world, churning out some 550 million litres of wine per year, and they have their many critics. This Gallo Sonoma wine, supposedly Gallo's top-of-the-range Chardonnay from a single estate, showed why they are having such a hard time from wine writers all over the world, including California itself. The Gallo family are keen to redress their reputation as a producer of american "jug wine", but on the basis of this frankly ordinary and over-priced wine they clearly have a long way to go. The wine itself was light gold in colour and its nose showed promise, with tasters writing of "strong and interesting spicy, meaty aromas" and "cardboard, smoke, hazelnuts", but another taster wrote "buttery but little aroma - alcohols". Views of the palate varied from "lemon, light" at best to "let down on the palate - thin and acidic", "a bit lacking on fruit", "rotting vegetables" and "a bit dull". It was considered to have a "buttery aftertaste", and one taster noted "first impression not good, later I liked it". Maybe this is one of those wines that shows badly in a formal tasting situation but performs well on the dining table? At 50 DEM, I for one will not be buying another bottle to put this hypothesis to the test!
- Wente, Riva Ranch Reserve Chardonnay, California USA, 1996
- Average Group Score: 3.9 (60)
- Cost and Source: £9, Wine Rack (UK)
- Notes:
Sadly, this wine was corked. However, most people ventured to score and describe it nonetheless, speaking of drains, cork, lichens, shellfish, rotting seaweed, and a thin, corky, acidic palate. What a shame! Still, it's always good to experience a corked wine in a group to help everyone identify one again in the future!
- Cono Sur Chardonnay, Rapel Valley, Chile, 1997
- Average Group Score: 0.4 (51)
- Cost and Source: 9 DEM, Toom Markt (Darmstadt)
- Notes:
The cork came out of this wine rather too easily, and the wine itself was found to be heavily oxidised and deep golden/light brown in colour. A clear candidate for having been stood upright in a warm dry place for too long. What a pity. And it completely buggered up the Cono Sur vertical tasting! The only note anyone could muster was "sherry!".
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