AFMS Safety Manual

Section 1: Field Trip and Camping Safety:

Chapter 1:     Safety Rules for Field Trips

Chapter 2:     The Junior Rockhound

Chapter 3     Wearing Apparel and Items to Carry on Field Trips

Chapter 4     How Not to Get Lost, and What to Do If You Are Lost

Chapter 5     Care of the Car

Chapter 6     Your Car can Be a Life Saver

Chapter 7     Camping Hints

Chapter 8     Fire Hazard

Chapter 9     Blasting Caps and Dynamite, Cynanide, Guns, etc.

Chapter 10   Hazards on Entering Old Mines, Shafts, etc.

Chapter 11   Water from the Desert

Chapter 1

SAFETY RULES FOR FIELD TRIPS

1. Never go on a Field Trip alone. Have some one along who can help, or summon help, if necessary.
2. Should there be children, have the child within seeing and talking distance. A child not only could get lost, but could encounter a snake, scorpion, etc., or have an accident of some sort.
3. Do not collect directly above or underneath people where there might be danger of falling rock.
4. Park so that all the cars can get out. Do not block the roadway.
5. Should you leave the Field Trip early, notify the person in charge.
6. Make sure all fires are out and wet down with water or smothered with dirt completely.
7. Break all matches in fingers before discarding, and be careful where they are thrown.
8. Break any cigarette before discarding and then crush it on the bare ground.
9. Do not throw rocks, and do not allow children to do so.
10. Avoid old mine tunnels. Never go into a mine alone. Carry a flashlight and a candle. Carbon dioxide or other gasses may be present. There may be even a lack of oxygen.
11. Respect property rights and signs. Obtain permission to enter property if owned by private persons or company owned.
    1. Inquire if there are vicious animals in the fields.
    2. Never walk on newly planted or cultivated fields without special permission.
    3. Be extremely cautious in hunting near abandoned buildings. You may stumble into a deep well not properly covered.
    4. Refill any deep holes you dig, so people or animals might not fall in.
12. Respect another's diggings. If a person has left for lunch or for any reason with the intention of returning, and has left a pick, coat, or definite marker, find another place.
13. Leave any place in good condition. Don't leave papers, cans, etc., lying around to mar the beauty of the place, and to tell others you have been there.
14. Close all gates you may have opened.
15. Never eat wild berries unless you are absolutely sure they are safe.
16. Be able to recognize Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, etc, Should there be any doubt, don't touch!
17. Always be alert for snakes, scorpions, etc. Be very cautious where you put your feet and hands.

Chapter 2

THE JUNIOR ROCKHOUND

Any Junior Rockhound must be accompanied on any field Trip by his parent, sponsor, or legal guardian who must be a member of the Club. This parent, sponsor, or legal guardian must be fully responsible for the Junior Rockhound, and have him stay within seeing or calling distance at all times.

If the child is reasonably young, and if the terrain is at all dangerous, a rope tied around the waist of the child, with the other end tied around the adult, is advised.

The Junior Rockhound and the parent, sponsor, or legal guardian, must abide by the rules set down for the members to follow.

Adopting these Safety Rules could save much anxiety, grief, and even considerable money for the Society and its members.

Chapter 3

WEARING APPAREL AND ITEMS TO CARRY ON FIELD TRIPS

Type of wearing apparel should be governed by the climatic conditions and terrain.

1. Boots are the safest type of shoes for field trips. They not only protect one's ankles and help support the feet when walking on uneven terrain, but help protect one against snakes, scorpions, etc. Be sure they fit properly. Wear properly fitted woolen socks. They help to prevent blisters, help absorb perspiration, and also, are an added protection against snakes.
2. Safety Glasses or Goggles: These should be worn when using a hammer or pick to chip rocks. These will prevent injury to the eyes from flying rock chips, silicon carbide particle, flying from grinding wheels, or being hit in the eye(s) by branches, etc.
3. A hat of some sort is always advisable if, for no other reason than to help prevent sunstroke. A hard hat or helmet is a must, in mines, or where falling rocks might occur.
4. Wear a Jacket or something with plenty of pockets to put rocks or other items in, rather than in the hands. Keep the hands as free as possible to protect oneself- even against a fall.
5. Wear a Belt. Various items can be attached to the belt, such as a knife, canteen, etc., which should always be taken along.
6. If one is going to be gone for any length of time, put a sandwich, etc., in your pocket. Be sure to have some liquids, but do not carry so much as to make your trip a burden. (Minimum liquid requirement: 1 Qt./24 Hrs.)
7. Band-Aids and a Triangular Bandage are important. The triangular bandage is a valuable item to have to bandage an arm or hand, use as a compress to the head, and in an emergency, can be used as a tourniquet. On any long trip, a First-Aid Kit should be taken along.
8. A Warm Jacket should be taken along in the car. Should one be going very far from the oar, or be gone for some time, it is often advisable to take it along, even if you have to sling it through your belt, or some other out-of-the-way place. In high elevations, it can often become quite cold. In the mountainous regions, storm can come up without too much warning.
9. A Cane or Walking Stick of some sort is advised, especially where the underbrush is thick.
10. A Compass and Matches in a waterproof case, are a must! A Rope is often advised, especially if there should be any steep climbing.
11. A Flashlight is often important, should there be the slightest chance of being away after dark.

Chapter 4

HOW NOT TO GET LOST

The Idaho Department of Game and Fish has issued a pamphlet (1967) on getting lost. The following recommendations on what to do before starting out on a field trip are:

1. Have plenty of dry matches, waxed or in a waterproof box.
2. Be sure you have a compass, one that is reliable and that you can trust.
3. Carry a map of your locality, even if it is only a sketch map.
4. Discuss your plans with other members of your party. Do not change these plans when alone.
5. Learn how to start a fire. A piece of candle or fire-starter pill inside your pack is always dry, and makes an excellent fire starter.
6. Watch where you are going. Do not hunt or wander aimlessly. Have a plan--- and stick to it. Be doubly careful in stormy weather.
7. Any hunter, who is inexperienced, should not be out alone.
8. Be careful when crossing ridges. The slope on the other side may be in an entirely different watershed.
9. Always try to get back to camp well before it gets dark.

* * * * * *

WHAT TO DO IF YOU ARE LOST

Taken from: Kenneth M. Cole, Jr., Director of Volunteer Training at the National Professional Training Center, Boy Scouts of America.

Getting lost need not be the horrible experience that one has heard about. At worst, it can be an inconvenient experience with a happy ending. All one needs to know, is a minimal know-how of survival. One should know the five major subjects, all beginning with the letter "S".

1. SAFETY: This is not safety from wild animals. The number one danger in the woods when you are lost, is YOU! When you think you are lost, sit down on a log or a rock, or lean against a tree, and recite something that you have memorized so as to bring your mind to a point where you have it under control. Don't run helter-skelter. If you must move, don't follow a stream unless you know the stream-- in that case you are not lost. Remember, streams normally flow through swampland before reaching a lake or river. There may be more food in a swamp, but also, many more hazards such as poisonous snakes, quicksand, etc. If you must walk, walk uphill. At the top of most hills or mountains, are trails leading back to civilization. If there are no trails, you are much easier to find above timberline, or on top of a hill, and you may even spot a highway, etc. Nowadays, the first way some one will look for you, is by air. In a swamp, or in dense growth, you are very hard to spot!
2. SIGNALS: When going into the woods, somebody should know where you are going, and when you expect to return. Then, when some one comes looking, you should be able to signal them. The best way to signal in the daytime, is a good smoky fire. In most of our country, either a fire tower, or airplane, will quickly spot the smoke. A fire warden will come to your rescue. At night, a bright fire will bring help, if some one knows you are lost. If you have a gun, wait until after dark and fire one shot. Repeat the shots at 30-minute intervals, and before long, the game warden or ranger, will show up to show you the way out of the woods.
3. SHELTER: In summer or winter, when you are lost, the elements are your worst enemy. The human body cannot stand long periods of heat or cold, and it never can take a great deal of moisture. To protect yourself against the elements, requires different things in different areas, and during different times of the year. In the heat of the sun, on the plains or desert, keep your clothes on, and keep your head covered. Try to find shade, or try to make shade. Make sure you have a way of signaling, then stay out of the sun and be still to conserve your energy and body-water content. If you must travel, do it during the early morning and in the late afternoon.
   
   In other places, or at night, you must protect yourself against cold; then a fire becomes one of the simplest forms of shelter. A fire is good company at night, and also, serves for a signal. If possible, build the fire near a reflector such as a cliff, large rock, or the root cluster of an uprooted tree. You must sit between the fire and the reflector. An overhanging rock is the best reflector. If there are no objects to use as a reflector, you may need two fires and then sit or lie down between them. Even after the fire goes out, the warm coals will keep you warm. In the fall, during dry weather, you can kick a large pile of leaves together, and burrow in to spend the night. Remember, you need more protection beneath you, than over you.
4. SUBSISTANCE- or food obtained from the wilds: You should know the edible plants in your region. Information about these can be obtained from your local 4 H Representative, your State University, or your State Department of Agriculture.
5. Dry SOCKS- If your feet get wet, and it is cold weather, you are done for, if you don't dry them quickly. In the summer, wet feet may result in chills and fever, or worse.

SHELTER

Chapter 5

CARE OF THE CAR

1. Do not start on a field trip when you have known mechanical trouble with your car.
2. Seat belts are a must, as they may prevent serious injury or even death.
3. Never have loose material higher than the back of your front seat. A sudden stop may cause it to fly forward and inflict serious injury. The safest place for heavy objects, is the floor of the luggage compartment.
4. Equip your car with a survival kit- food, water, first aid, and clothing which will protect you from the heat and cold.
5. Do not depend on some one else to have a spare tire, fan belts, etc., that will fit your car.
6. By always carrying a shovel as standard equipment in your car, it will always be there, should one get stuck. An ax and bucket are also required in most National Forests during dry seasons when there could be danger of fire.
7. Keep car or truck tires properly inflated. Never, never run with a soft tire. Pressure does not blow tires. It is lack of pressure that causes tire damage. A tire with low pressure flexes too much, building up heat, which weakens or even burns the cord and rubber. This is what causes a tire to fail and "blow". If you happen to overload your car, increase the tire pressure to make the tire stand up properly. (#7, from Safety Manual of CFMS)

Chapter 6

*YOUR CAR CAN BE A LIFESAVER

Statisticians point to 38,000 highway fatalities in one year alone, but it is usually overlooked that the family car can save lives, too!

In emergencies, your car is a fortress. Beneath its hood and within its steel body, can be found materials for family survival.

• The average car's radiator holds 16 to 21 quarts of water.   IF it hasn't been contaminated by  ANTIFREEZE, that is water enough to last a family of four, for four days.
• Hubcaps, cleaned with sand, pinch-hit for cups and for shovels
• Your horn can alert rescuers as far as a mile, downwind.
• Under the hood are four gallons of oil. A quart of oil, burned in a hubcap in the still air of morning, spews a miniature atomic cloud high into the sky- a smoke signal visible for miles. Lube oil used as a salve against searing sun or frosty winds, can save your skin.
• A hose from the motor will convert into a siphon for getting gasoline from your tank.
• The windshield washer tubing becomes an effective tourniquet for stopping bleeding, when needed.
• Door panels become ground blankets, insulating you from frozen, wet or scorching ground.
• Dome light's glass can be a sun-focusing fire starter.
• The glove compartment door and sun visors double as shovels.
• Slip covers, floor mats, and rugs, make into blankets and clothing.
• Many a hunter has warmed himself (and stayed alive) over a tire-fire.
• A little siphoned gasoline ignites your tire-fire. Average tires burn three to four hours.

One family, their car broken down on a little-used fire trail, carefully removed a sealed-beam headlight and, leaving it still wired to the battery, directed its beam upward in wide, sweeping areas. A rescue team quickly spotted them.

"Drastic", you say, "to destroy your car". A California Highway Patrolman says, "Everything you need to stay alive, except food, is found in the average car, but not one motorist in a hundred, when he finds himself up against it, thinks of his car as a survival kit. His first inclination is to set out for help. Too often he in beyond help when we find him a couple of miles down the road, dead from exhaustion, heat or cold."

Don't get excited! Stay with your car! Use your imagination to make it a "life saver".

*Taken from "Rome & Highway". Published for Allstate Insurance Co.

Chapter 7

CAMPING HINTS

A good camper may be likened to a good woodsman. He does not go camping with a scanty outfit to endure as many hardships as he can stand, but rather, makes the most of his equipment and the resources of nature. Most modern-day campers now go with well-equipped campers, trailers, or with a suitable tent, to protect them from the elements and insects. The following, if observed, will make the camping trip more pleasant.

1. Before going camping, be sure all your equipment is in good shape whether it be a tent, trailer, or camper, etc.
2. Be sure to have water available. Take plenty along if possible. Should you need extra, have facilities for boiling same, or purify it by adding 20. drops of Tincture of Iodine to each gallon of water, (or 10 drops of Clorox). Let stand 36 minutes before drinking. Also, chlorine tablets are available at the drug stores for sterilizing water.
3. Have your car in good shape for a trip. Be sure the tires are adequate and inflated to normal pressures. Be sure to have adequate gasoline for the miles to be traveled.
4. It is better to have some extra food and clothing along, should you be unable to return as soon as expected. Dehydrated foods weigh very little and will help sustain an individual until able to return to camp, etc.
5. Always build fires in prescribed areas if present. If not clear the area of leaves and branches, and make a rock ring around the fire area. Never leave a burning fire. A sudden wind can scatter sparks for some distance to ignite underbrush. Burning matches and cigarettes can likewise be disastrous. It takes only a moment of carelessness to cause untold damage, injury, or even death!
6. Keep a clean and sanitary camp. Bury your garbage and rubbish, or carry it to a litter barrel, if present. Better still, carry it back home with you and dispose of it there. When you leave the camping area, see that it will look as good to the next camper, as it did to you. "Respect the rights of others".
7. Camping equipment is expensive and should be given good care. If you use a tent, be sure the terrain underneath is smooth and free from rocks. See there is a gentle slope where you set your tent, so as to carry off surface water if it rains. Keep away from gullies, thickets, or dense woods, as these are damp and unwholesome, and throng with insect pests. (Encyclopedia Britannica). In very windy areas, fold up the tent when you leave temporarily. Winds can break the center pole or tear the tent. Loosen the guy ropes when it rains to allow for shrinkage. Keep the tent tightly closed to keep out prowling animals.
8. Never store your tent if it is the least bit damp. Mildew can rot canvas. Make any repairs before storing it away.
9. Be sure to clean all grease from your stove. Rancid grease can cause stomach upset and diarrhea, and make a person quite ill, if it contaminates the food.
10. Before storing your equipment, or if you are going to be away from camp for some time, it is good to release the pressure in the lantern, dry out your icebox, and air it out thoroughly to keep the inside fresh and sweet. Your lunch box should also be cleaned thoroughly, and aired.
11. Be careful where you put your hands and feet when in snake country. Wear boots, if possible, and woolen socks. Always be alert. Take a flashlight with you to light your way at night.
12. Camp where you will be able to get out easily in case of a flash flood, snow storm, etc. Carry a towline, pump, car Jack, and a shovel, in case you get stuck. A sturdy Jack can help in getting a car out of sand or mud. Raise the back wheels and place brush or boards under the wheels. Take it slow! Better traction will be attained by keeping the wheels from spinning.
13. Always carry extra water, gas, oil, and don't forget that shovel! If you become lost, stick to the road.
14. Many Rockhounds are now using campers and small trailers. Make sure yours is properly ventilated. During cold and stormy weather, increase care when cooking or when using a lighted open oven, or plate to heat the camper or trailer. Carbon Monoxide poisoning or suffication is a definite danger in a poorly ventilated or tightly closed camper or trailer.
15. Always carry a means of making a fire. Matches in a water-proof case, are a must! Fire starters are handy and will start a fire even if the fire wood is fairly wet. Pitch from the sides of pine trees, burns readily.
16. A small ax, and a 30-inch bow saw, will prove safe and handy for cutting wood.

Chapter 8

FIRE HAZARD

At the approach of summer camping season, all campers should be reminded about the use of fire on the timber and rangelands. Most forest fires and range fires, are caused by carelessness; a few are caused by lightening, and some can be caused by glass containers, containing clear liquids, and bright bent cans acting as a magnifying glass, or magnifying mirror-focusing the sun's rays on combustible material. (Northern Forest Fire Laboratory, Missoula, Montana),

Always build fires in prescribed areas if present, and if not, clear an area of leaves, grass, and branches, and make a protective rock ring around the fire area. Never leave a burning fire. Put it out! Use water if possible, then cover it with earth. Never throw away a burning match until it is completely out and cold. If you smoke, be sure the "butt" is out before throwing it away. Always grind it into the earth, to make sure.

Remember- glass containers, containing clear liquids, and cans in the open, can act as a magnifying glass or mirror, and if in the sun, can start fires by focusing the sun's rays, on pine needles punky wood, or range grass.

Keep a Clean Camp! Help Eliminate Litter, Please, and Help Prevent Forest Fires!

The California agency says investigations have identified auto exhaust catalytic converters as the cause of grass fires in six locations. According to a fire prevention engineer on the Division Staff, the converters emit gasses at about 725 degrees Fahrenheit - some 275 degrees hotter than those from conventional auto exhaust systems.

Dry grass ignites at 525 degrees under summer conditions; accordingly drivers of late model cars and trucks equipped with catalytic converters, should be wary when they drive through grassy fields- and doubly so, when stopped, with their engines running. (Boulder Gazette via AFMS Newsletter.)

Chapter 9

BLASTING CAPS AND DYNAMITE, CYANIDE GUNS, ETC.

1. Many old mines have abandoned boxes of dynamite and caps. DO NOT TOUCH THEM! Both caps and dynamite are extremely dangerous when old, so don't try to be a judge of their age. AVOID THEM COMPLETELY!
2. If your car is equipped with a radio transmitter, observe all notices of blasting areas. Do not be responsible for detonating a charge of dynamite prematurely. It may cause serious injury or death to some one.
3. When on field trips, avoid cyanide guns. The general areas will be marked, and also have other signs within five feet of the guns. These cyanide guns are buried in the ground with the exception of a small piece of cloth tied tightly around the top, which will be showing. This cloth is saturated with a scent that attracts coyotes. When the animal pulls out the cloth, the gun shoots cyanide into the animal's mouth and kills him, almost instantly. Unless a person gets his face too close, so as to get the cyanide in his mouth, it will not kill him. However, it could cause a rather severe burn. The charge will only go off, should the cloth be pulled out, or the trigger underneath and to the side of that cloth, be sprung. A child should be watched carefully if in the vicinity, as he would be more apt to pull out the cloth, and probably be closer to the charge with his face. It will not discharge if stepped on, but only if the cloth is pulled out, or the trigger set off. Regardless of weather, unless the charge has gone off, it will be as dangerous as when first set.

BE CAREFUL!  LEAVE THEM ALONE!

Chapter 10

HAZARDS OF ENTERING OLD MINES, SHAFTS, ETC.

1. JUST DON'T -- unless you are well informed about the particular mine or cavern, don't enter! The hazards are:
   • POISON GASSES!
   • LACK OF OXYGEN!
   • SNAKES!
   • PITFALLS!
   • CAVE-INS, ETC!
2. If you MUST enter, watch for snakes at the entrance. They may be overhead, underfoot, behind rocks, timbers, or other loose materials.
3. Carry a good light-- also, a lighted candle, and if the flame of the candle begins to decrease, GET OUT! There is not enough oxygen for survival!
4. Most poison gasses found in mines cannot be detected by odor, and by the time you are aware that something is wrong, it is too late!
5. Mines with rotted timbers and shoring, should be avoided. The slightest jar could cause a cave-in which might trap you inside or bury you!

Unless you KNOW the mine is safe, ask yourself, "is that rock or mineral I might find inside, worth the chance taken, if I m not around to enjoy it?" If you are "sure" of its safety, then -- if you still want to go in, take the above precautions.

Chapter 11

WATER FROM THE DESERT

"Water, water, everywhere, but not a drop to drink", is usually true, even in the desert. There is almost always water in desert soil, and always water in living plants, but how to get it! This method was taken from the article by Ray D. Jackson, a Research Physicist, U.S. Water Conservation Laboratory, Soil and Water Conservation Research Division, Agricultural Research Service, Phoenix, Arizona; also, C.H.M. Van Bavel, Chief Physicist at the Laboratory. (1967)

For a Survival Still, one can carry all the necessary parts in one pocket. These parts consist of a clear plastic film, 6-foot square, a second, but smaller piece of plastic film, aluminum foil, or other waterproof material to use as a container, and a plastic drinking tube, 4- to 6-feet long. To make the Still, dig a bowl-shaped Pit 3-feet across and about 2-feet deep in the soil. Use the small piece of plastic film, or aluminum (or can), in the center as a container. Put one end of the plastic tube in the container and bring the other end out of the pit. Arrange cut pieces of cactus or other plant material around the sides of the pit. Cover the pit with the clear plastic, anchoring the sides with rocks, and place soil around the edge. Place a rock the size of your fist, in the center of the plastic- directly over the container. Push it down until it is about 1 foot below the surface of the soil.

If the sun is shining, water droplets will form in the bottom side of the plastic film in 30 minutes, and in about 1 hour, the droplets will start running toward the point of the cone, and drop into the container. In 3 to 4 hours, about 1/2 pint of water will be in the container. During one day, up to 2 pints of water can be collected.

When deciding where to locate the Still, dryness of the soil, availability of plant materials, exposure to sun light, and ease of digging a pit, should be considered. If the soil is damp or plant material available, dig the pit where it is easiest. If soil is hard and dry and no plants available, it should be located in a stream bed or depression where water may have accumulated after a rain.

Polluted water, water from radiators (contaminated by antifreeze), and even body wastes may be distilled by this method.

Two stills will maintain an individual in a dry hot area until rescued. (Plastic film should be clear, strong, and wetable. Nonwetable plastics will do, but many of the drops will drop, before reaching the point of the cone.)

Desert Still