Italy
(5-11-03 to 5-30-03)
Buon giorno!
Italia, ah Italia! Italy has got to be the art capitol of the world! When you enter a Duomo (biggest church in the city), you don’t know where to look! There are mosaics on the floors and the walls and ceilings are covered in art work! Thank goodness the people of Italy were illiterate and the church had more money than it knew what to do with so the best artists of the time could be hired! The stories of the Bible are told and retold in the various art forms! And, certainly one gets a true sense of the money and power/control of the Catholic Church! Wow!!!! Now, for my story and some interesting facts about Italy!
Milan Train Station - The Tunnel to My Italian Adventure
Italy became a nation-state in 1861 when the city-states of the peninsula, along with Sardinia and Sicily, were united under King Victor Emmanual. An era of parliamentary government came to a close in the early 1920’s when Benito Mussolini established a Fascist dictatorship. His disastrous alliance with Nazi Germany led to Italy's defeat in World War II. A democratic republic replaced the monarchy in 1946 and economic revival followed. Of course, Rome is the capitol. Italy was a charter member of NATO and the European Economic Community (EEC). It has been at the forefront of European economic and political unification, joining the European Monetary Union in 1999. Persistent problems include illegal immigration, the ravages of organized crime, corruption, high unemployment, and the low incomes and technical standards of southern Italy compared with the prosperous north.
The flag is three equal vertical bands of green (hoist side), white, and red. It was supposedly inspired by the French flag brought to Italy by Napoleon in 1797. And, the Euro is the monetary exchange.
Italy is slightly larger than Arizona with border countries of Austria, France, Vatican City, San Marino, Slovenia, and Switzerland. Our guide told us that northern and southern Italy would like to separate much like California. However, neither northern or southern Italy wants Rome or the Vatican. Very interesting! It is mostly rugged and mountainous with some plains and coastal lowlands. The Mediterranean (Ligurian and Tyrrhenian Seas) plus Adriatic Sea is of course, at sea level and the highest point is Mont Blanc at 11,896 feet (the highest mountain in Western Europe.
The population is 57,715,625. Italy includes small clusters of German, French, and Slovene-Italians in the north and Albanian-Italians and Greek-Italians in the south. As we traveled south there was an obvious change in the culture and living standards. The north seemed very German (high socio-economic standard, organized, business like, clean, and you make reservations) while the south was much different (low socio-economic standard, worry about it tomorrow, pick pocketing, no reservations, drive down the middle of the white line, don’t give the other guy an even break). It was so, so very interesting to compare the differences.
Now about the food and bathrooms! As we went further south, the complex carbo’s increased. We are talking major amounts of dry bread with no butter or olive oil. Oh yes, bread is automatically placed on the table whether you want it or not at a cost of E 2. Breakfast consists mostly of a croissant and cheese or jelly. Then there is pizza and wine for lunch. Now, we are not talking about a pizza with all the goodies. The pizza in Italy is thin crusted with tomato sauce and cheese. If you get lucky, there will be a few slices of salami or a vegetable. But, believe me, when I say few that is exactly what I mean! Dinner once again consists of wine with pasta and some type of fish or meat. There are very few vegetables served! So, talk about a major carbohydrate diet! Wow! But, the people are not fat! And, a salad consists of lettuce only with very little dressing! Basil is the herb of choice. It is used in just about everything. I had a sandwich in Assisi which consisted of bread, one swipe of artichoke spread, one narrow slice of cheese and meat plus a leaf of basil! Talk about dry! Gezz! In my opinion, the northern Italians cook 10 times better than in the south!
And, you can drink the water out of the tap, but they won’t give you any. You are served mineral water with or without gas at E 2. Oh yes, if you want to sit down in the gelato parlor, it is an additional E 2. You have to pay for the seat or the privilege of looking at the scenery (Isle of Capri). Dry bread is also served at lunch and dinner whether you request it or not at a cost of E 2. And, wine is served at both meals. Many times it was homemade or a local wine! Too many bubbles and red liquid to suit my tastes and dry tongue!
But, the gelato, ah the gelato! It comes in just about every fruit flavor. And, I am telling you, it is oh so good! The flavors are so intense there is no guessing as to what flavor you are enjoying! And, talk about smooth! Just as smooth as a baby’s behind! My favorite flavors were lemon and tiramisu! During one day’s adventure, I managed to eat 3 gelato’s. Now, I must admit at one point I considered my hips for about 1/100th of a nana second and then proceeded! “I will worry about it tomorrow!”
Now, about the potties! I could probably write a book about the john’s! You have to pay E .50 at all public restrooms. And, let me tell you there is a wide range of cleanliness! And, it is not one of those situations where you can put money in the door and hold it for each other. There is a person waiting to collect the money and it really doesn’t make too much difference which toilet you use. I used the men’s side several times at the insistence of the attendant. And, yes, men were at the urinals! No big deal! Ha! Ha! So, I would guess that I paid about E 100 -150 to take in fluid and then to release it!
My most memorable trip to the john was in a medieval village. You urinated in a hole that was surrounded by porcelain. Ah, the modern conveniences! Now mind you, this was much easier for the boys! If you were not successful in hitting the hole then there was splash back! So, need I say more?! And, yes I paid for the privilege! Oh yes, we also learned to pee on command. While traveling on the bus, we were told to only use the bus facilities in an absolute emergency and to pee at the rest stops whether we really needed to go or not! Talk about a group of kindergarten children! It was laughable and we made jokes about it along the way. Oh yes, only one person used the bus john the entire trip!
Now, on with the trip! I left the safety of my home at 0345 and arrived in Varenna on Lake Como 28 hours later via planes, trains, and automobiles. I flew from Sacramento to Salt Lake City then to Atlanta finally arriving in Milan. I made my way from the Milan Airport via bus to the train station where I purchased a ticket for the 45 minute ride to Varenna. However, I did not understand how to read the schedule and missed the train. So, I waited an additional 2 hours and watched the children pick pockets! Oh, what fun! The train stations are apparently terrible in all the major cities! God bless the money belt and my purse with a thick strap that went over my head and could not be cut easily!
Lake Como - taken from train enroute to Varennna
Varenna plus Bellagio & Cadenabbia
Varenna
Varenna, a corner of heaven dipped in blue, a pearl set between mountains and lake nursed by the breeze and kissed by the sun. Varenna is built upon a rock at the foot of a mountain which rises almost vertically above it, leaving the skeleton of a ruined ancient castle exposed to the sky. Its community dates back to the Roman age with its name first appearing in 493.
Varenna is primarily a resort town with lake fishing. And, we had a view of the lake from our hotel, Villa Cipressi. There are several other villages (Menaggio, Cadenabbia (Villa Carlotta), and Bellagio) on the lake which can be visited via ferry. It is a very quiet, relaxing village offering lake side walks and beautiful gardens. However, the evening storms over the lake are something to behold. The lake takes on a life of its own as the lightening strikes and the thunder roars! However, it was actually warm, so my shuttered window remained open while I took the opportunity to enjoy the beauty of the storms! Nature at work in all her glory!
