International Theatre

Just out of Armritsar there is a section of the India Pakistan Border, it has become an increasingly popular tourist attraction. Every day many busses and taxis and every other form of transport arrives at the border. They are all there to see what’s known as the border show. We arrived at the “Parking lot” about 0.5km from the border. From there you walk to near the border. Lining the sides of the roads where 100s of Indian trucks all FULL of onions. Pakistan must have a chronic onion shortage. The trucks are a spectacle in themselves. Covered in intricate iron work in all sorts of patterns, mirrors, tassels tinsel and paintings of anything from bright blue peace doves to hindu Gods such as Shiva, all are bright and each owner/driver it seems consideres it a work of art of some sort. To see hundreds of these trucks all waiting in line to cross the border is a sight in itself. We reached a certain point near to where the border is and where locked out by big gates, this was the sort of curfew zone perhaps it is the disputed territory its seems there are farms in this area so perhaps they have special permission to live and work in this area. There where big signs only allowing the general public through at certain times. The crowds had begun to get restless as they waited for the magic moment when the gates where released. As tension mounted pushing began. Children where peddling popcorn and dvds of the ceremony as well of plastic Indian flags and visors some what representative of a football match. they seemed relatively calm in comparison to the pushing crowds. Finally the moment arrived the gates opened and the people poured out all at the run. Everyone ran to begin with but the middle class Indians who have eaten a few too many fried Indian sweets got tired after about 10m as the reality of their unfitness sank in. The relatively healthy ran on to try and get good seats in the grand stands and it seemed just to get there quickly. A bizarre phenomena some people run everyone runs and everyone was caught up in the excitement including me! We finally made it closer to the border and where blocked once again. Females where all allowed through first and went through in an orderly fashion. The males where held back. We where kept behind a chain fence by guards in the most incredible costume/uniforms.  Khaki base uniform with hats that looked like they had red fans spread out sticking up from the top. All gold trimmed and standing very tall, from these hats hung a sort of set of gold strings that looked as though it would be very annoying. All for show and to try to make the uniform look fancier. Finally the males where let through and another mad rush to the Pakistani border, then everyone slowed down to wave to Pakistanis. Possibly some of the Indians had relatives who they waved to. The whole thing was very nice and gave hope to those who wish for peace between the two nations. Everyone was ushered along and not encouraged to hang around too much as the show would soon start. There was another race for a good seat in the grand stand. Looking as though it was filling up I ran to get a seat only to realize that westerners where all considered to be VIP and where put in another section. We sat where the Generals sent us and big guns and tall hats made everyone very obedient. On the Pakistan side the situation was very similar. The grandstands where almost completed like on the Indian side. The gateway with welcome to India was mirrored and flags flew on opposite sides of the border at the same heights. The Pakistani border guards wore almost the same uniforms but the color was black instead, also with very funny fan hats! Music blasted from loud speakers, on the Indian side Indian songs and the Pakistani side local songs also. A compere on each side dressed in a sort of suave style yelled out call and response chants that everyone knew and each side became wrapped up in the excitement of rooting for their country. The patriotism was awe inspiring, people stood up in the stands to the disgust of the guards and danced to the music and yelled the chants again and again. They waved their plastic flags and clapped and cheered and tried to let the other side know how they loved their own country best. The soldiers from each side marched with their legs swinging up almost to their head with extreme enthusiasm. Every action was mirrored on both sides so as neither side would loose face. When they arrived at the gate waved their heads a lot to try to intimidate the other side. Then the highest general or whoever was in charge from both sides marched to the border with high swinging legs and arms and shock hands and saluted the general of the other country. The patriotism, the chants and clapping and cheering went on until the sun almost set when the flags of both countries where lowered. Each country was being careful to lower the flags at the same rate so. Then it was photo time, people tried their best to get photos with the men in the army. As we walked back through the avenue of onion trucks we where swarmed with more DVD sellers all aged about 5 years old  and enough popcorn to supply an American cinema chain for a year. As I passed the International train station I though about the border and problems it has caused since partition and how it would be nice if the poor farmers who work in the special areas surrounded by high barbed wire fences could rest a little more easily at nite.