When I was a kid, my mother always baked ring mold cakes. Chocolate bundt poundcakes were her specialty. Hers were perfectly moist, dark and rich. Often, they were studded with chocolate chips. I would pick at the edges and chips as the cake cooled in its pan, impatiently demanding that she serve me a slice. The heady chocolate aroma was torturous, but she always made me wait. I would beg her to bake frosted or layer cakes, but she would say that the frosting contained too much sugar and fat. When I pointed out that she was making bundt poundcakes, which were far more fattening and sugary, she switched to baking angel food cakes. The rest of the family protested, and she switched back. Afterwards, she would indulge me once in a while, by glazing her bundt cakes.
Last night, I attempted to bake a bundt cake (Milky Way Bar Swirl Cake, to be exact). What a far cry from my mother�s cake it was! It did not rise to a proud height, with a fine delicate crumb, nor did it invert perfectly, the ways hers always did. Instead, it collapsed in a clumpy, crumbly and soggy mess. I remembered, too late, the cardinal rules of cake baking, and why she always made me wait � make sure you use the correct measurements, do not overmix, thoroughly and generously grease and flour the pan, and the cake must cool before attempting to invert. I did, however, learn some new guidelines, as I managed to salvage the cake (somewhat). Frostings and glazes can camoflauge some aesthetic mistakes. An ice cream accompaniment and a distinct lack of sobriety will disguise texture inconsistencies. Kind guests will praise your cake, and ask for seconds. When I get the recipe right, I will post it.
Risotto is one of my favorite foods. It�s always made with Arborio rice - use any other kind, and it�s not risotto anymore � which is known for its high absorption capacity. The rice is barely saut�ed, sometimes with aromatics, before adding just enough broth and wine to keep it at a consistent gentle simmer. Broth is added in small increments, while constantly stirring, to maintain even absorption. Too much broth, and the rice will become a soggy, gummy glue, too little will make the rice dry out and be underdone. As it cooks, it absorbs flavor from the other ingredients and transforms the liquids surrounding it into a smooth, creamy sauce. Pre-cooked, or quick cooking ingredients are added towards the end, along with butter and Parmesan cheese. The end result should be simultaneously flavorful, dense, chewy, firm and creamy yet separate grains. Often, I will judge a restaurant, especially Italian ones, by their risotto. Risotto isn�t that hard to master, but it does take time and care. Here is my recipe, adapted from Chez Panisse Cooking:
.5 tablespoon olive oil
.5 tablespoon clarified butter
2 finely chopped shallots
1 cup Arborio rice
2 ounces chopped pancetta (regular bacon is too greasy and strong tasting)
1 large pinch of saffron
2 large slices of dried porcini mushrooms
.25 tsp. kosher salt
2 tablespoons of grated Parmegiano Reggiano
2-3 Tablespoons unsalted butter
Any desired quick-cooking seafood, pre-cooked meat or vegetable (optional)
White truffle oil (optional)
4 cups of hot chicken or turkey broth
.5 cup white wine
Toast the saffron threads by holding them over a flame with a spoon, then crush them in a mortar and pestle. Heat the oil and clarified butter in a heavy pot, and saut� shallots until softened, but not browned (approx. 3 minutes). Add rice, saffron and pancetta, and continue saut�ing, until �eyes� appear on rice (approx. 4 minutes). Grind the salt in the mortar and pestle, as to �pick up� any remaining saffron. Add the salt, mushrooms, 1 cup of hot broth and the wine to the pot. Stir the pot to combine all ingredients evenly, then lower heat to keep at a gentle simmer. Every few minutes, the rice will have absorbed the broth, so add a quarter cup when it does to keep it moist. The idea is to keep the rice barely submerged in broth After about 20 minutes, the rice will be almost done (the broth should be nearly gone). Stir in the butter, and any raw vegetables or shelled seafood you wish to use. Cover the pot for a few minutes, until seafood is cooked, (if the rice still isn't done, continue adding broth) then stir in the cheese and ground black pepper. If using pre-cooked food, add it in with the cheese. Drizzle white truffle oil sparingly over each serving, then top with additional grated Parmagiano Reggiano and chopped parsley. Paul Bertolli (in Chez Panisse Cooking) calls for shaving fresh white truffle slices over each serving at the dinner table. I've never done this myself, but if you decide to take him up on his advice, I'll be at your house for supper faster than you can say Vigonier.