Mysteries of nature                                       

A Mystery In Ice

The "George Mallory" Story, A True Mystery

  Mt.Everest 1924
On May 2, 1999, the world learned of the discovery of the body of George Mallory, found on Mt. Everest at 27,000. feet.

That one sentence appears simple, but it beneath it all, a complex set of events so complicated that it is almost beyond comprehension. Let us guide you through what we know as of now. Sit back and enjoy the ride.

June 1924
George Leigh Mallory, 38 years old and accompanied by his climbing companion, 22 year old Andrew "Sandy" Irvine set out to reach the top of the world.

Mallory was making his third journey to Everest. Irvine, his first. In fact, Irvine was not a climber at all, as opposed to Mallory, who was one of the most experienced and adept climbers of his time. Both men of English heritage, both on a mission.

Irvine was included on the journey, at the request of Mallory due to his ability to repair the breathing apparatus that Mallory had decided, after long hours of contemplation, would be necessary to accomplish his objective: reach the summit of Mt. Everest.

On June 6, 1924, the two men set off at 23,100 feet with the expectation of a three day trip to the summit. During their climb, they met up with " Howard Somervell," who loaned Mallory his  camera. Note: During a climb of this nature, there are many in the Support Team. Everest is not as lonely a place as you would imagine at times like this.

In the early afternoon of June 8, 1924, one of the members of that support team,  "Noel Odell," sighted the two men. He did admit that he saw " two black figures through the midst" approach and climb the "Second Step."  A bit lower on the mountain than he had expected them to be. Odell commented that the two appeared to be strong. He still felt, based on his personal observations, that the two would reach the summit on target. As happens at this extreme altitude, clouds moved in, "swallowed" both Mallory and Irvine, they were never seen alive again.

Mystery In Ice
part two

'Noel Odell' kept vigil all that evening, even though a snow squall interrupted his watch.  He also checked the camp where Mallory and Irvine had their tent. The only items found were part of the oxygen apparatus that Irvine had been working on. Two days went by, and not one hint of either Mallory or Irvine. It was assumed that both were lost forever.

Did either man ever reach the summit? If they did, they would have been the very first to do so. Thirty years later, Sir Edmond Hillary and his team did reach the summit and nothing ever should be taken away from this tremendous feat. In the meantime, what happened to Mallory? Irvine?

• Facts to Ponder:
• In 1933, an ice axe was located on Mallory's route. It is believed that this belonged to Irvine, it contained 3 "nicks," Mr. Irvine's trademark.
• In 1966, a Chinese Expedition completed Mallory's climb, albeit with tremendous difficulty.
• In 1975, a body was located only 750 feet below where that ice axe was found in 1933. This discovery was made by a Chinese climber. His description of the body has been known forever as the "Engilsh dead" based on the period of clothing found on the body. To complicate things, it was not known at the time, if this body was Mallory or Irvine. It was reported however, that the body had a hole in the cheek.

There is a great deal of information that could be brought forth here, however, due to the fact that a New Expedition has begun, we will concentrate on what we have learned to date.

The Team in 1999 is being lead by "Eric Simonson" and as we already know, George Mallory's remains have been located, after being alone, with only Mother Nature to guard him, since 1924. 75 years, and now the mystery really begins!

"Simonson" and his team, set out to search the North Face of Everest, near where the Chinese said they discovered the "English dead." With great amazement and excitement, the Team reported finding Mallory and have also reported the following, found on Mallory's body:

• 1. Clothing tags with Mallory's name on them.
• 2. Goggles found in Mallory's pocket.This has great implications. Why were they in his pocket? Does this mean he was descending Everest? Had he still been climbing, he should have been wearing them.
• 3. A broken watch.
• 4. A pocket knife.
• 5. A tin of dried beef.
• 6. Letters to his wife were found in his breast pocket.

As described earlier, George Mallory was just about the most talented mountain climber of his day. His body was found with a roper spiraled around his body. It has been reported by the new team that his midsection was bloody and bruised He was found face down, and the most unusual aspect of this? His left shoe was off!  He would have been tied to Irvine during the climb. It is known that he fell up the mountain and this was the direct cause of death. But, did Ivine fall farther down the mountain? Did Mallory have to cut the rope to free himself from being pulled over the cliff? Did Irvine, himself cut the rope so he could be freed?

And if you have been really paying attention, you should be asking yourself."Where is the camera lent to Mallory by Odell?" The search for this vital piece to the puzzle is ongoing, even metal detectors have not located the Pocket Camera.  If it is found, and it is in good shape, a laboratory would be able to develop the film  and only then would we begin to solve this Mystery in Ice. ( Note: special circumstances have already been put in place, to develop the film, and not destroy it.)

                                                                        Mystery In Ice  (part 3)

                                           'Eric Simonson' and his team of eleven men consisting of climbers, a historian, a glaciologist and a geophysicist successfully completed what they set out to do.  The North Ridge of Mt. Everest was conquered.

In March of 1999, this team set out for a world of ice and danger. Their trek was arduous and full of peril, even with the benefit of modern equipment and technology. This journey was never easy. This was not just a "climb." It was research, and curiosity. All carefully thought through, planned and carried out. Every move, from Camp to Camp, level to level was vital to their survival. Every calculation meant possible failure, but with determination they faced the altitude, snow, winds and frostbite.

The ascent. The Discovery. The descent.
The bonus? May 1, 1999, the discovery of George Mallory's remains, when and where they least expected. They found the body of the man who inspired this Expedition. On May 23, 1999, the Team crossed the border into Nepal and began their real journey of discovery.
A Press Conference was held on May 25, 1999, in Katmandu, Nepal. At that time,"Simonson" announced that a return expedition is already in the planning stages, hopefully in the year 2000.

The purpose?
To attempt to locate the remains of "Andrew Irvine" and other evidence. During the Press Conference, four of the items found at 27,000 feet were displayed to the world for the first time:

• 1.  A scarf, monogrammed with George Mallory's initials.
• 2.  Goggles that were found in Mallory's pocket.
• 3.  Cotton climbing rope.
• 4.  An operational oxygen bottle from that now famous climb in 1924.

Even though this Expedition can be applauded with success, we are left with more questions, than answers. If "Simonson's" next adventure can locate the two vital missing links, the

Camera and Irvine, most of the Mystery In Ice will be resolved. Where is Andrew Irvine's body? Where is the camera, with it's precious cargo of 75 year old film? If found and successfully developed, we may be able to honestly write in the history books, with certainty the names of the first individuals to successfully summit Mt. Everest.

The Final Hours Of George Mallory
(update - 12/9/99)

Did George Mallory and Sandy Irvine reach the summit of Mt. Everest or were they turned away from the top of the world? This mystery still has not been solved. The recent 1999 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition members have returned and at least four books have been written on their discovery of the corpse of George Mallory.

It was on May 1,1999 that Conrad Anker discovered the remains of George Mallory, 75 years after he was last seen alive. He was found lying face down, his right leg broken in two places, broken ribs, punctured forehead and multiple abrasions on his body. Still his hands were gripping the mountainside!

The expedition brought back many relics found on Mallory's body. The mountaineer's knife, goggles, altimeter, and his wristwatch. But the finding of an oxygen cylinder, a most critical piece of evidence, that put them higher up on the mountain then expected. ( Noel Odell said in 1924 that he saw them at the formation known as the second step -850 feet below the summit but clouds on the mountain moved in and they were never seen again). If this was the case, they could have made the summit by 5 PM. This would allow them to descend in daylight to a place on the mountain called the Yellow Band.

Mallory's goggles were found in his pocket so we can assume it was night time on the Yellow Band - They were coming down the mountain, oxygen-less, dehydrated and exhausted. With no torch or lantern to light the way -- one of them lost his footing and down they go -- not falling far but building up speed as they fall. Suddenly the rope tethered to both men snaps and they both plunge down the face speeding the edge and a fall of a thousand feet to the glacier below.

The fall has dislocated Mallory's right elbow and the rope is coiled around his chest, breaking his ribs. At some point he breaks his tibia and fibula just above his right foot. He is still sliding face down the mountain, his fingers digging into the rocky ground. He slides off another ledge and his forehead smashes into the rocks. Finally his battered body comes to a stop. He is still alive! He digs his fingers into the ground and to protect his shattered right leg, he crosses his left foot over the right foot -- to protect it.

Sandy Irvine's has fallen also down the ledges -- his body has yet to be found and we still don't know the extent of his injuries. But an expedition is planned for the year 2001 to find his body.

We may never know if Mallory and Irvine made it to the summit of Mt. Everest or what happened in the final hours as they climbed down. The critical evidence has still not been found.

Mallory had pledged to leave a photo of his wife on the summit. A Kodak Vest Pocket Camera was taken, but both items were not found on Mallory.  Kodak technicians had said that if the camera was found intact, the film could probably be developed.

If the photo or the camera is ever found; we may know the answer to this mystery. Were George Mallory and Sandy Irvine the first men to climb to the top of the world?

The 1999 Everest Expedition members have published their books on the recent finding of George Mallory. They can be found in bookstores now. They will make a great Christmas gift!

Ghosts Of Everest - By  Eric R. Simonson,Jochen Hemmleb, Larry A. Johnson and Clare Millikan
Last Climb - By David Breashears and Audrey Salkeld
The Lost Exploder - By Conrad Anker and  David Roberts
Lost On Everest - By Peter Firstbrook