As a junior hight student in New Hampshire, Dean Potter and a friend would often ditch class to free solo an off-limit cliff near his house. "It was cool to break the law and go to this cliff. We just wore sneakers like they did in the 30s. Here and there we'd find old relic climbing gear. We didn't know anything about gear or proper technique, we just went climbing" says Dean. Today, this law breaking little junior higher is now setting records for the fastest solo climbing on long routes in Yosemite, including "Astroman". "The mental aspect, the ability to relax, that really helps my climbing" says Dean, "Besides, slack lining is the scariest thing I do. It makes me more comfortable when I'm soloing." Dean does in fact pack a rope, but only for the harder pitches. To save time, he solos all of the "easier" ones. Movement is the main focus for Potter, free and unrestricted movement.
With "some really bunk gear we'd bought off a guy", Dean Potter with his friend returned to the off-limits cliffs. From there, Dean has progressed free soloing The Nose on El Capitan, in Yosemite. He has also set records on numerous climbs, and boulder problems. The up-side-down, twisted, skin tearing "Crack House" (unrated) in Moab has become routine for Potter. Dean talks about the intoxicated feel you get, after hanging up-side-down for over 10 minutes in a crack. In a new movie, "Masters of Stone V" staring Dean Potter and Steph Davis, Dean manages to conquer "Crack House" for the camera (I recommend the movie, great for motivation). This guy is an amazing climber, and incredible athlete. No fear and ultimate skill, is what he has. If you ever need an ego-reducing climb...climb with Dean. |