| Housing: The type of housing you needs depends on whether you want one rabbit or whether you want more than a few rabbits. The more rabbits you have, the more accommodating your space must be. A recommended cage size for a small rabbit is 30" X 30" X 14". This will give your rabbit plenty of room to run around and be a rabbit, while providing room for a nest box in the future. Larger rabbits should have around 36" X 30" X 18". Wire is the best material for cages because it's the easiest to clean and sanitize. Wood will get messy quickly, and rabbits tend to chew on it. An all-wire cage is best, but if wood is needed, try and keep the amount of wood available to the rabbit inside the cage or hutch at a minimum. Cages should be kept out of drafts, away from predators, and out of the weather. Also, they should be kept in the shade, because rabbits are very susceptible to heat and can get sick if they are not well-cooled. A sitting board should be provided for larger breeds and for rabbits which have a thinner hair surface of their feet. This is to prevent sore hocks. Food: Pellets are the best bet for pet and show animals. They contain most if not all of the nutrients a rabbit needs to stay healthy. Several different brands and formulas exist, so ask your pet shop employee or feed store worker to help you choose the correct feed. In my experience, pellets are cheaper in feed stores, and if you have alot of rabbits, it may be helpful to buy in bulk. Just be warned that feed does go bad, so watch for mold that can make your bunnies sick. The amount to feed a rabbit depends on size and situation. If you have smaller rabbits, such as a Netherland Dwarf, 3 ounces a day is plenty. For larger breeds, the recommended formula is one ounce of pellets per pound of body weight. If a rabbit is pregnant, lactating, or is still growing, they can have full feed, which is unlimited food in front of them all day. Along with pellets, a rabbit's diet can be supplemented with roughage (hay) of some sort. Rabbits love alfalfa, but it's very rich and should be fed only in moderation. Grass hay such as timothy hay is best and less expensive. Give them all grass hay they want. Food dishes should be heavy and not easily tipped or have some sort of device to hold them down. Treats: You can give your rabbit - a small piece of banana, a cut up apple, carrots, parsley, comfrey, strawberries, dandelion weeds, Timothy hay, unsweetened dry oats, Cheerios, Raisins and Rabbit Yogurt Drops. DO NOT give your rabbit - avocado, broccoli, cauliflower, Iceberg lettuce, Chocolate, cabbage or any food that creates gas. Water: Water is the most important thing your rabbit needs in his daily diet. Unlike humans, rabbits cannot get water from their food, so we must provide them with clean, fresh water daily. If you notice that the crock or dish is dirty, please take a minute and clean it out. Especially in warmer weather, you should be sure your rabbit has a constant supply of water. Water dishes should hold plenty of water and be heavy ceramic crocks or large Croc-Locks. Water bottles work also, but some rabbits don't know how to use them. Just make sure all of your equipment is clean and sanitary. Temperature Control: An outside Rabbit's cage should have a sturdy roof and be placed in an area sheltered from wind, drafts, dampness, rain, and especially from direct sun. Rabbits cannot tolerate excessive heat because they DON'T have sweat glands and can't perspire. When the temperature reaches 85 degrees or more, keep your rabbit cool by - Freezing some juice or milk jugs with water. Put one of the jugs in the rabbit's cage. The rabbit will lay against or near the frozon jug to keep cool. You can hose down the area around the cage, and get the roof wet (make sure not to get the rabbit wet). If it is REALLY hot outside you can bring the rabbit in the house. This article is adapted, in part, from www.rabbitweb.net |
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| **Rabbit Care** |