bill12

    You will need to gather together the following tools to complete this task:

     Polish ( I use Semi-Chrome, but you can use any kind you like )
     Some Q-Tips, a dremel tool, a 4-40 tap and a 1/16th inch drill bit.

     Let me begin by telling you that I am from the old school where if it looks
     fast, it will go fast. I am a polishing fool. Some people may think I go too
     far doing this.

     Let's start by building a new shock as maintenence includes many of the
     same things. After a quick visual inspection to check for aluminum shav-
     ings, I chuck the main body of the shock into the dremel tool, putting
     some polish on a nice clean cloth. Be careful, as they can get away from
     you if spun up at too high of an rpm. Polish the top of the shock as well.
     Now use the 1/16th inch drill to clean out the shock top. Sometimes there
     will be shavings left over from the machine work that won't allow the
     shock top to fit onto the shaft completely. Remember, when both side
     shocks are assembled, they should be the same length. This is important,
     as it will affect the rear tweak adjustments.

     OK ... let's polish the inside of the shock by cutting a Q-Tip in half and
     putting it into the dremel. You only need to polish the inside for about 30
     seconds, followed by a thorough flushing. Take a minute to also polish
     the shaft of the shock. It should be nice and shiney now and ready for
     assembly.

     If you are building the shock for the first time, make sure you remove all
     the burrs from the plastic pieces. Put the cup, o-rings and other pieces on
     the shaft as per the directions. Select the shock oil ( 30wt is a good starting
     point if you are not sure what to use ), and fill the shock body about three-
     quarters of the way up. Slide the assembly into the body and push down.
     The idea is to get enough oil in to prevent air pockets and at the same time,
     you do not want to overfill it (this would make the shock stiff). The way to
     check for the proper amount of oil is when you push the piston down, it
     should come back up on its own. When you work the shaft in and out
     quickly, you should feel resistance and no air in it.

     On with the cap. I would also check that both are the same length at this
     time. Finally, I tap the ball cups using the 4-40 tap to make it easier to put
     them on. One other note: IRS (no not THE internal revenue service) makes
     some nice aluminum shock adjusters that work great for about $8.00. I feel
     they are worth every penny.

     With the shocks on the car, you should not feel any slop in the ball cups.
     If you do, place an o-ring on the ball stud and then snap the shock back on.
     This usually will take up any slack you may feel.

     I hope this has been helpful to you. If you have ANY questions about the
     prcedure, feel free to EMAIL me and I will try to set you straight.

                                                                               Thanks Bill