| Improved soil means improved crops |
| How to know, test, and treat your soil |
| First: What type of soil is it? Sandy/Clay/Loam/Stoney |
| Second: TEST IT! |
| Third: TREAT IT! |
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| Tips 4 |
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| If you want to successfully grow flowers, most shrubs and vegetables, you will probaly have to add lime to your soil. The amount of lime to be used can only be determined by a soil test. Get it tested by the Agricultural Dept. Free mailing boxes are available at the local Agricultural Extension Service located in the County Service Building. Testing will also determine the amount and type of fertilizer to use for your particular "crop". |
| To give you a rough idea, take some wet soil and rub it between your thumb and finger. Clay smears smooth, loam gives only a rough smear and sandy loam very little. Very sandy soils are gritty and will scarcely hold together. The amount of clay, sand or slit also determines the texture of the soil. The easiest to handle, of course, are the loams. If you have clay or stoney soil or sandy soil, you will need to modify the soil. |
| Heavy clay soil will have to have to have organic matter incorporated into it to improve the texture and drainage. Compost, peat moss, sawdust, grown leaves, ground bark or mineral ammendments such as sand, vermiculite, ferlits or gypsum are all good for this purpose. Sandy soils need bulky organic matter, as well, for the improvement of moisture retention. The same materials used for clay can be used improve sandy soils. If your soil test indicates acidity, you will need to apply lime, gypsum or wood ashes to correct it. The test will give you the application rates for lime. Some plants, of course, prefer acid soil. Do not add lime to any area where you will grow Blueberries, Camellias, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Hydrageas or any of the Heaths. Most soils in Connestee will require fertilizing. There are both organic and mineral fertilizers. Below find a few of the different types: |
| By: Barbara Higby |
| Organic Fertilizers |
| Bone meal: slow release phosphorus, also helps netralize acidity. |
| Cottenseed meal: somewhat acidic- good fo Azaleas, Rodos, ect. |
| Blood meal: rich in nitrogen-use sparingly. |
| Fish emulsion: contains nitrogen & trace elements. Apply late spring when plants have sprouted. |
| Manures: fresh manure can burn plants. Aged manure is safer and better to use. |
| Compost: contains many of the elements all plants need. |
| Green Manure crops: most clovers, ryegrass and alfalfa are examples. |
| Inorganic Fertilizers |
| Inorganic fertilizers fall into three major categories: Complete fertilizers contain all three of the nutrient elements- NITROGEN, PHOPHORUS & POTASSIUM in different ratios. Most common for vegetables is 5-10-10 and for shrubs and flowers, 10-10-10. Some specific ratios are recommended for certin plants, and sometimes the soil test will indicate a certin single nutrient or a formula with more emphasis on one of the nutrients. Single nutrient fertilizers are best only used when specifically indicated, or by expeienced gardeners who know how to use them. These are: Ammonium sulphate, urea, superphosphate, triple superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and muriate of potash. SOLUABLE complete fertilizers are best used in spring or used regularly on container plants. |
| When Ready To Amend |
| Remember to use one-third of your chosen amendment to two thirds of the native soil. Spread a 2 inch layer of the amendment over the plot, then spread the indicated fertilizer over that, and work it all into a depth of at least six inches with a spade or tiller. If you are just digging a hole or small spot for transplants, work in the amendment, only. You can fertilizer around the plant after it is planted. |
| After Planting |
| Keep all plants regularly watered and fed. Mulching is beneficial to keep out weeds and retain moisture. |
| Happy Gardening! |