Speedy Classic

THE STORY THE PROJECT FUNCTIONS

BIRTH OF THE CONCEPT

On Christmas 1999, I had the opportunity to sell my watch, and with some additional savings I was able to purchase my first Omega: Speedmaster Reduced.   I was very happy with the watch, until I saw Wichai's Speedmaster moon phase on the TimeZone Omega Forum, and soon after another Speedmaster with moon phase being offered in a popular auction site.  Prior to this I did not know it was available in a two-tone model.   Did this mean that it was available in stainless steel?  Mr. John R. Diethelm at Omega informed me that the Speedmaster automatic with moon phase indication was produced from 1990 through 1995 in steel and gold and in solid gold, but never in stainless steel.  No plans for reintroduction of such automatic chronograph in the future.

I did not have the money to purchase the one I saw at the going rate, and I had just purchased my first Omega which was great.  So I tried to talk myself out of it.   Perhaps this was the opportunity? I thought it was too much of a coincidence that I came across both of those models, so I decided to sell my Speedmaster Reduced while it was still in brand new condition and pursue a Speedmaster with moon phase indicator. 

The following week I was able to get a copy of A Time-capsule: The Omega Speedmaster, in which I read for the first time about the "Speedmaster Classic" and its few variations.  Prior to this, I did not know it had a name.  I really wanted one.  Fortunately the one I was monitoring sold for more than I could afford, and getting another one in decent condition was a very long shot.  This was unacceptable but my only option. I e-mailed many vintage and new watch sellers and they replied that if and when they found it, it would not be in the price range I was looking to pay. 

IS IT POSSIBLE TO...

I then thought to myself, as if in a day-dream, if it is based on the Valjoux 7751, and there are versions of this chronograph with and without moon phase indicator (from other manufacturers), then perhaps the moon phase mechanism could be put back on the watch?   I e-mailed many watchmakers, and e-mailed ETA as well.  One of them watchmakers told me it was impractical both from the standpoint of the watch and of the dial, and another one referred me to yet another one which I called.  When he answered and I asked him my question he said it was not possible to modify the Omega watch.  I emphasized the fact that it was a Valjoux 7751 movement which was available with moon phase indicator and without (according to me).  He referred me to yet another watchmaker who finally confirmed my suspicions.  He said it was "possible" to do such a modification, and that some parts of the moon phase mechanism might be in place.  He further commented that it was admirable that I wanted to pursue such a transformation, but that he could not do it for me, and neither could Omega (they cannot modify the current product-line).

Around the same time I received an e-mail reply from ETA stating that all their Valjoux 7751s they provide have the moon phase indicator in place, and if there's one without the moon phase disc, they do not know of it.  They suggested that  I  contact the manufacturer of that particular piece as perhaps I could get the "missing" parts from them. Hmmm....good news? or bad news?

I looked at many pictures of the Valjoux 7751, both with and without the moon phase disc, and decided I would do this project myself, or get someone to do it for me.  I had seen pictures of the Omega 1152 (Valjoux 7750), and 1151 (7751) and decided it was worth a shot. I told my watchmaker friend about it and he said he would not "tinker with it."  I still wanted to do it... especially after my Speedmaster Reduced had sold, and I was without a watch.  Fellow TimeZoner William Stonehill told me that the idea seemed feasible and suggested I only needed some basic tools, and lots of care to do it.  I decided to give it a shot.  I had no watch to wear!!!

GETTING THE RIGHT CANDIDATE

I went ahead and tried to purchase a Speedmaster Triple-Date, the one with the  white/silvered dial Ref.3521.30.  However, I discovered that it had just been discontinued, and replaced by the sportier 3523.30.  My transformation would not work with that model, as the bezel had a different design and the bracelet and winding crown were sportier.  It wouldn't look right.

I had to find a Speedmaster Day-Date 3521.30!  I e-mailed everywhere I could think of, and no one had a one.  I finally received an e-mail, but their price was hundreds higher than my initial quote (where they were all sold out).   I had the option of getting that one, and waiting to get the tools and parts later... OR  getting a gray-market version WITHOUT serial numbers and the tools for the transformation.  I thought, that watch is way too complicated for anyone other than Omega to service it the way it was intended, and thought a gray-market version without serial numbers might be denied service so I decided to get the one from the Authorized dealer... Just before I sent back the faxed authorization, I found out about other dealers and one of them claimed to have one. 

The dealer said that it had just been received from Omega in December 1999, sold, then traded back a few weeks later; it was essentially like new.  The price was better than any other and I decided to purchase it.  They would get back with me the next week.  I soon ordered a loupe, tweezers, screw-drivers, strap/bracelet pin tool, hand-removers,  a hand-setting tool, a movement cover, movement holder, case-back opener, silicon grease, pith wood, peg wood, watchmaker's paper, an oiler, finger covers and other miscellaneous tools for my project mainly from the TimeZone tool shop. The following week they called me back, informing me that it was a mistake on the computer.. the watch had already been sold...they are sorry.  I could not believe it!!!  I was very upset, to say the least. 

I had been practicing with my tools by disassembling and reassembling an inexpensive watch that did not work.   Amazingly it worked after putting it back together.  At the same time I kept e-mailing dealers until I finally found a pre-owned  3521.30 costing the same as the new one from the gray market dealer that removed serial numbers.   I opted to purchase the pre-owned one. But when I received it, I was a little disappointed with its"ratty"condition (it was advertised as "like new in box with papers," had the wrong papers, and even had some hairline scratches on the sapphire crystal!), but it would have to do. 

It was not running when I opened the box, so I wound it.  It was still not running, so I thought I would set the time and perhaps that would get it going.   After that didn't work I sent it back the next morning.  I was really bummed out at this point.  Watchless again, and with all these tools.  During this time I had the opportunity to get an old stock dial from the Speedmaster Classic, along with some of the parts of the moon phase drive--in the event that they were missing.   I figured that I would need them sooner or later and so I purchased them. 

In the meantime I was lucky that a valued TimeZoner referred me to an authorized dealer who could still get a 3521.30.  I purchased it. When it arrived, I wore it for one day (to monitor that it was functioning properly), and took pictures of it (Friday, April 14, as you can see on the dial).   I was very happy!  I couldn't resist to begin the transformation and so the following day I took the much anticipated plunge... 

THE PROJECT BEGINS
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Omega 3521.30, discontinued.
I cleaned the watch, removed the bracelet with the Bergeon tool, and carefully opened the solid back. I was impressed by the looks and finish of the movement. I thought this movement deserves to have an exhibition back. Unfortunately, making one myself  is out of the question! 

I carefully removed the winding stem, followed by the screws that fasten the movement to the case.

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Remarkable that such finish is applied to movements that are not in exhibition.

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Côtes de Genève or "Geneva Stripes" elegantly decorate the movement.

The Omega 1151 is rhodium-plated movement, nicely decorated with Côtes de Genève, beveling, circular graining, and brushed finish on some of its surfaces. The screw heads are polished and the holes are chamfered and polished. I was quite impressed especially since this is the standard finish.   The shape of the rotor, (which has been redesigned to resemble the design of the vintage Omega movements, as is the case with the Omega 1120), and the winding bridge are different than any Valjoux I have seen.
I proceeded to carefully removing the movement from the case by first placing a sheet of watchmaking paper on the back of the watch, then turning the watch over, and letting the movement gently reside on my hand.  I noticed that it is quite a heavy movement!

Its dimensions are 30mm in diameter by 7. 9mm in thickness. 25 Jewels, smooth balance with three arms in Glucydur.  Incabloc shock absorbing system and Nivarox balance spring with fine adjustment.

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The main plate is decorated with circular graining.

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The winding bridge, is unlike any Valjoux 7750/7751 I have seen before (in pictures).   It has a different shape, and I do not know if this redesign is for aesthetic or servicing reasons.

Furthermore, I noticed that the automatic winding bridge was different than the standard one on a Valjoux 7750/7751. The level of finish seen is the same on both visible and non-visible surfaces. Nothing to hide. An honestly finished movement, that makes no attempt to impress anyone.  Quite a contrast to the Valjoux 7750 and 7751 "standard" finish which other watch companies put on display.  This movement silently resides within the watch, hidden from view.   
  I removed the hands with the special Bergeon hand-remover tool.  While doing this, I took extreme care to protect the dial. After removing the dial, I discovered that the moon phase drive mechanism was NOT in place.  Bummer!!! This meant I needed to purchase more parts!!! I tried to order them from a supplier, but it was too late on a Friday.  I would have to wait until Monday--just to place the order.  I actually confess that I considered creating the moon phase jumper spring that I was missing myself.  To be successful at such a task it would be ideal to have a sample of the part one is making--which I did not have.  Given the specifications for the thickness and pressure it would have to exert I would have done it to get it over with.  But resistance is everything when it comes to micro-mechanics.  Too strong a spring, and the moon phase mechanism would jam, too weak and it would be sloppy,  and perhaps impossible to correct without hands-on intervention.  For those reasons, I decided to wait for the part. 
Here is the calendar plate, normally hidden under the dial.  The circular graining on the surfaces adds a touch of beauty to an otherwise technical design. The brushed plates on the side enclose parts of the drive mechanism for the calendar.  The plate on the top right is supposed to enclose the moon phase corrector, the moon phase jumper spring, and the moon phase jumper...which were all missing.  I had backup parts to use, with the exception of the moon phase jumper spring which I had to buy in sets of 5.

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The Discovery: Moon phase drive mechanism is missing.  It is obviously left-out during assembly.

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A very simple "work area" with the minimal tools in view. The two dots by the round pith wood, are the screws that hold the moon phase plate in place. 

Without having seen the movement, it had been my guess all along that the parts of the moon phase drive mechanism  were in place. My reasoning was "who would take the time to remove them?" But it is obvious that the parts were left out during assembly.  This would mean to me that Omega assembles this movement in their workshops.  There is no need to include parts which will not be in use, and are not necessary for the proper function of the other mechanisms in the watch.
I did not want to reassemble the watch, set the dial and hands, and re-case everything only to do it over again once I received the part. So I went ahead and added the moon phase disc, corrector and jumper in the meantime while I awaited the moon phase jumper spring.  It was a relatively easy procedure since I had a steady hand and had practiced handling small parts with the tweezers.  The tiny screws that hold the moon phase plate in place required the use of the finest screw-driver in my set, which I had carefully polished to perfection with my Dremel in order to avoid any sloppiness.

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Prior to receiving the missing parts, I assembled the watch without them to get a preview of what the project would look like in the end.

Nearly a week later, I finally received the set of moon phase jumper springs.  To the average eye, they would not look very different than a bunch of tiny staples. I proceeded to finish what I had started a week earlier.

I carefully removed the new dial, and the moon phase drive cover plate.   I meticulously oiled the parts at the friction spots where they come in contact with each other using a fine black oiler and Moebus D5, high viscosity lubricant. It is important not to oil the parts that do not require lubrication, as the high viscosity could add resistance. Then I tried setting up the moon phase corrector and jumper--this time with the jumper spring in place.

Both "jumper" and "spring" are great descriptive names for this small part, and I think I have a pretty good clue as to why they come in sets of five!   This tiny, odd-shaped, metal "wire," roughly the thickness of a human hair, requires just the right pressure in order to be fitted in an equally small area, holding the moon phase corrector, and the moon phase jumper in place.  Fitting it into this area requires pressure, a steady hand, and lots of patience.  I felt like I needed an extra set of helping hands. 

After almost getting it into place, it jumped out of sight.  I could not find it!  I looked for it for many minutes without success.  This is the watchmaker's nightmare: losing tiny parts in the "Triangle of Bermuda."  I shrugged my shoulders, and decided to use another one--after all, five come in the package.  Just before doing so, I found it, stuck to the bottom of my wrist/side of my hand. I finally got it right at the third attempt, and quickly screwed the moon phase mechanism plate into place before the tension found relief causing the parts to literally "fly" out of place, and possibly out of sight.

Next, I had to set the moon phase disc into place.  This required pushing back the moon phase jumper, and holding it, as I put the disc into place.   Once this part was done, I had to check that the parts cleared one another, and I had to adjust them via eccentric screws.  I also had to verify that the forces exerted by the moon phase yoke, and the moon phase jumper were adequate, 7g and 10g respectively.

Now, I just needed to set the dial and set/line up the hands. Needless to say the chronograph hands are fairly small, and have to be handled with the utmost care.  Aligning the chronograph hands is difficult, and consists of trial and error.  In order to aid in the process, I put a little bit of rodico on the tip of the Bergeon hand-setting tool to "hold" the hand in place, as downward pressure was applied.

I then followed this with a few blows from the air blower, to make sure the dial and hands were impeccable as can be, prior to re-casing the watch.  I put the winding stem in place, and fastened the movement to the case. Followed by some more blows of air to the movement with the blower, I covered the movement.  I used silicone grease to prepare the o-ring gasket, set it in place, and closed the watch.   I then set the functions and  admired my results!!!  The project was very successful, and I have been wearing the watch every day! It has gained 3 seconds in one week.

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One of a Kind Omega Speedmaster Moon-phase in Steel

YELLOW MARKERS ON WHITE METAL WATCHES
Although the Omega Speedmaster Classic was never manufactured in all-stainless steel, it was available in solid 18kt gold and in a combination of 18kt gold and stainless steel.  The version I have created is in stainless steel making it one-of-a-kind.  Perhaps to some "purists" it might appear as if though there is a bit of awkwardness in having an white metal watch with yellow markings on the dial. 

One of a kind Speedmaster

This watch is not the first to have that combination.   It is a "classic" combination available from other great watch manufacturers--also commonly found in vintage watches.

Here are some samples I took from the web.  These are pictures (clockwise from top left) of The IWC Grande Complication in platinum, The Jaeger Le-Coultre Master Chronograph, The IWC Portugeiser, and the Minerva Pythagore II Anniversary.

Pictures from The Informedia Orologi online Yearbook of watches, and The Official Minerva website.
CONCLUSION

In my opinion, this watch is a marriage of classic horological complications and modern, classy looks.  I have seen many watches with the Valjoux 7751 movement that either look too antique or not classic enough for my taste. I am very glad to have been able to transform this watch into one with the moon phase indicator, giving it that special touch of "Classic." Truly the watch of my dreams to date. I hope you have enjoyed my creation and the review!!!

Best Always,

Alex


Pictures of the watch not to be used without my explicit permission.
No affiliation whatsoever to Omega Watch Company or any other company mentioned herein. 
Not for commercial purposes. Copyright 2000.

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