Phase II - T5 transmission (and other manual swaps)

Installing Transmissions

Manuals

T5- The Borg Warner T5 tranny came stock in late model 5.0's (and other cars). It has a .63 (or .68) overdrive to keep revs down on the highway. There are many swap kits available for this transmission. There are all kinds of specifics about the clutch linkage. You could use early model linkage with spacers and what not, or you can use a cable setup from DB Performance Engineering at (818)571-7126 or make your own. You will also need to buy or make a crossmember. According to "Gearing up" (May '98 p.42, Mustangs & Fords) the distance from the front of the T5 bellhousing to the mounting bolt holes is 21.4". According to Dan Jones' article "C4 to AOD transmission swap" at at Wabba.net, this distance on a C4 is 19.75". See the links page for more info.

Tremec- This is a stronger alternative to the T5, and is better for high HP engines. It needs a different bellhousing than the T5. The crossmember is specific to the Tremec, and is available from Dark Horse Performance.

T56- This is Borg-Warner's 6 speed tranny. This isn't as popular of a swap as the T5, but that just makes it cooler for someone who does it. The distance from the front of the bellhousing to the mounting bolt holes is 26.4" ("Gearing Up" p.42, Mustangs & Fords May '98), but the shifter is still in the same location.

Hydraulic Clutch

This is one way of hooking up the clutch. This is what is used on the Ranger, and its basically a master cylinder mounted on the firewall, connected to the pedal. It has a small reserve cup right above it for extra fluid. The throwout bearing inside the transmission pushes forward on the clutch when the pedal is depressed. Some members of the Fordnatics Mailing List have done it.

Cable Clutch

This was done in Mustangs & Fords, Aug 98. DB Engineering [(818)571-7126] does this setup, but others are currently working on making one, too. They weld a bracket on top of the existing clutch pedal, and operate the clutch via a cable. This makes pedal effort much easier and gets rid of that sloppy rod linkage.

Automatics

Auto trannies are somewhat complicated:

First, you have the balance factor. Late model 302's (1981-95) use 50 oz. flywheels, while early models (up to 80) use 28 oz. You can't mix 'em.

Secondly, you need to get (or fabricate) a crossmember that will hold your tranny in place. The distance from the front of the C4 bellhousing to the insulator mounting bolts is 19.75" (Dan Jones "C4 to AOD transmission swap" at Wabba.net.

AOD- Automatic Overdrive- These are found in late model (up to 93) Mustangs. The 94-95 AOD-E will not work without 94-95 EFI because they are electronically controlled. AOD's make a good swap because you can run deep gears and keep up with highway traffic. They are not exactly performance-friendly, though. They can keep up with a near-stock motor, but it takes big $$ to make it last behind a high horsepower motor. I believe the mounting point is 2" rearward of the stock mount. You can retain your stock shifter, but you might need to fabricate shift linkage. It's a big tranny, and weighs 40 lbs more than a C4. Also, you need to install a throttle cable and have it properly adjusted, or you will tear up the tranmission.

C4- These came stock in a lot of early 'Stangs. They are lightweight, and can build them to run strong for cheap. You can get a later model valve body that lets you downshift into 2nd or 1st. This replaces the earlier one that has the old snow drive where it starts out in 2nd gear. Some came with 157 tooth flywheels, and some came with 164 toothers. Don't mix up the flywheel, tranny, or starter. The only bad thing about this tranny is that you don't have any overdrive. :(

Other Notes

The original speedometer cable will work with the T5. One thing to note is that the EFI uses a Vehicle Speed Sensor that plugs into where the speedo cable used to plug into. On the 94, the speedo is electronic. Also, you may need to trim your driveshaft a little because the T5 is a little longer. As far as shifters go, you could fabricate a shifter handle that looks stock or use a late model shifter.

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Disclaimer: As with any mechanical type work, there are inherent dangers. I am not responsible for any damage to property, injury, etc. Don't trust this article as completely accurate.

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