Hooking
up
Fuel Injection
The Links page has several good resources for understanding Ford EFI. The
following is a list of pointers for the swap.
If anyone has corrections or additions, please email me and I will
post it.
O2 Sensors
Weld bungs to the exhaust pipes right behind the headers. These sensors
are very important. The O2 sensors get a 20A fuse, and they are hot in
run only. If you don't have the heated type, you may want to put
them closer to the heads to keep them hot.
Export Brace
Without modification, the stocker won't clear the intake. You'll could
hack on the driver's side bar and reinforce it (that could get ugly). Or,
you could make a custom one. Or, you could purchase one from Maier, Windsor
Fox, MPG Head Service, or Total Control Products. I bought the one
from MPG, and it fits well. I need to make some kind of bracing on the
firewall, though, because when you tighten it up, the dam thing twists
upward!
Monte Carlo Bar
In my 65, it cleared everything well. I have the curved one.
94-95 Intake
This intake fits GOOD. Its weird how something 29 years newer can fit so
well. For those who don't know, the 94-95 intake is different from the
earlier ones. The 'snout' where the throttle body goes turns 45 degrees
towards the battery. This makes for a VERY nice fit with the 65 shock tower.
As far as the height of the system, I believe the whole unit is shorter
to fit with the lower hoodline of the SN95 cars.
-
Nice Fit!
Speed density
Found on 87-88 EFI Mustangs, it's slightly faster in stock form, but doesnt
take well to modifications. If you want to modify your engine very much,
you'll have to convert to mass-air (89-95). There are kits available to
do this.
Wiring
Alot of people are intimidated by the wiring part of this
swap, and for good reason. The Ford wiring diaram consists of about
20 pages, front and back, 11"x17" size. If you are not skilled at
reading a wiring diagram, I would recommend sending your wiring off to
get it done, or buying the harness from windsor fox or others. Email
me if you are interested in having the wiring modified for you.
If you still feel brave enough to clip wires, continue
below:
Get a Chilton's manual AND a Ford Wiring diagram from Helm
from the donor car. Also, label everything before you disconnect it. Don't
trust yourself to remember it later! A lot of the stuff in the harness
won't be used (lights, etc.) so you'll have to carefully cut this stuff
out. For those that are intimidated by this, you can get a custom harness
(but not for 94-95) from Windsor-Fox or others.
Make sure you follow good electrical practices. Make solid connections,
and insulate with heat shrink tube or elec. tape. Make good grounds,
too.
If you are using the donor alternator (highly recommended), then IT
will regulate the voltage for the system. However, you can still
leave the old one on, and it won't hurt anything. Thats what I did.
Once you have the wiring done, you have most of the swap done.
Just be very thorough, and it helps to draw out your diagram, and keep
a record of what you did. In the end, you will basically have a diagram
that shows the ignition switch turning on the relay, and the relay turning
on the appropriate wire.
Computers
The 5.0 uses the EEC-IV computer. They are specific to tranny type. The
T5 computer doesnt really care what's behind it, though. It only uses a
Vehicle Speed Sensors and a clutch pedal switch.
EGR
There has been some debate on whether to disconnect the EGR or not. Some
people have done it with no problems, others say that you will get detonation
(not good). All it does is introduce inert exhaust gas air into the chamber
that COOLS the combustion temps. It doesn't even operate at wide open throttle.
It doesn't hurt performance, and it helps with emissions. Also, on 87-93,
don't disconnect the coolant lines from the EGR spacer on 87-93. (They
keep it cooler than the exhaust air.)
Thermactor (smog) stuff
Consists of the belt driven smog pump, actuators, and hoses. You can remove
this if your vehicle is emissions-exempt. It basically injects air into
the exhaust & intake. Some people have reported better throttle response
from removing it. This, too, doesn't operate under wide open throttle.
(But its still a drag on the engine) To remove the smog pump and retain
the serpentine belt drive, you might have to get the Motorsport Idler pulley.
Also, you will have to plug up the holes in the rear of the heads.
Fuel pump and lines
After trying the F250 pump with little success, I went back to the original
94 Stang in-tank pump. I took it out, took out the 65 sending unit,
and modified the 94 until it had the same profile (looking at it from the
side). Then, I slipped it right in, and hooked up the wires! You'll
also need to run a fuel return line back to the tank. You need to
get the expensive EFI hose and clamps. Don't gamble with regular
gas line hoses! I am running 5/16" steel lines, and "patching" with 5/16"
rubber hose. I mounted my filters and pumps with coil brackets, using
rubber to insulate the vibration.
Here's a list of what I used:
1. One EFI rated fuel filter with 5/16" barbs
3. 4 5/16" brake lines 5' long - NAPA 813-1235 (buy a couple
extra, you'll need 'em)
4. 4 feet of EFI rated 5/16" gas hose - NAPA H-202
5. 2 feet of EFI rated 3/8" gas hose - NAPA H-203
5. 1 tubing bender (get the more expensive one, you won't regret
it).
6. 6 unions for the steel lines (5/16")
7. A bunch of 5/16" (and 3/8") EFI Rated hose clamps
(available at Pep Boys)
10. Special fitting with 5/16" IF (inverted flare) and 5/16"
hose barb
This is made by MotorMite, I got mine
at Discount Auto Parts. You will need 4.
The diagram on the left is my old setup. With the intank pump,
you just run both hoses straght to the sending unit, like illustrated on
the right.
Inertia switch
Found in the trunk, DON"T CONSIDER INSTALLING EFI WITHOUT IT. It is a safety
feature that cuts off the fuel pump in case of a collision. The button
on the top resets it.
Check engine light
Hook this up so you can monitor the sensors. This and the Tach are on a
10A fuse that is hot in run & start.
Performance stuff
There's alot of info out on hopping up the 5.0. A little planning
when installing can bring you a little extra ponies, though:
Air filter & Ram air - Dont install that stock restrictive thing!
Exhaust - Now's a good time to replace those ugly cast iron pieces with
some decent tube headers and pipes. Stock pipes for a 5.0 are 2 1/4".
Tune up - Replace cap, rotor, wires, plugs, assorted sensors, clean the
injectors, etc.
Timing - bump that sucker up to 12-14 degrees. Back it off if you hear
pinging when accelerating.
Throttle plate - make sure its opening all the way at WOT and reading .999
volts.
Electric fan - Get one if it can keep your engine cool enough.
Accessory load - try to reduce it to free up hp.
Battery - Put it in the trunk for better weight distribution & traction
MAF post - If 94-95, you can cut the post for more airflow and a few hp.
See sn95.com, they have a how-to on this.
One person that I know has done the swap can spin the tires in 3 gears.
Think about it folks, if 5.0's can break into the 12's without pulling
a valve cover, think of the potential of the same motor in a vehicle 500
lbs. less!
Home
Disclaimer: As with any mechanical type work, there are inherent dangers.
I am not responsible for any damage to property, injury, etc. Don't
trust this article as completely accurate. Information based on swapping
a '94 5.0.