Installing the motor

This installation should be pretty much straight forward, but there are a few things to watch out for when doing this swap:

Accessories and Front covers

If you choose to use early model accessories, you need to use your old pulleys, front cover, and water pump (they will fit). If you keep the late-model serpentine belts, you must use all late model brackets & accessories. This is because the serpentine belts turn the water pump in the opposite direction.

The early water pump blocks the late model timing marks (they're both on the passeger side). Also, do not switch harmonic balancers as they are balanced differently.

The 94-95 accessories & belt are 2 3/4" closer to the engine than previous years.  Thus, it creates many headaches.

Water Pumps

If you like choices, this will be your favorite part of the swap.
 
 
Year Cover plate Block to hub Belt Inlet Side OEM Material Will steel Alt Bracket Bolt up? Edelbrock P/N Stewart P/N Notes
1965-68 289, 1968-69 302, 1969 351w Yes 5.42" V Passenger Iron Yes 8841, 8846 16123, 16123P .
1965-67 K-Code 289 No 5.16" V Passenger Alum Yes 8842, 8847 16103, 16103P Not interchangeable
1970-78 302, 1970-87 351w Yes 5.70" V Driver Iron Yes 8843, 8848 16113, 16113P .
74 Maverick 302 Yes 5.75" V Driver Iron Yes . ? Different pulley bolts
78 LTD 302 Yes ? V Driver Iron Yes . . Alt bracket will bolt up
1979-86 5.0 Yes ? Serp? Driver Alum ? 8840, 8845 16173, 16173P .
1979-85 Stewart Yes ? V Driver Alum ? . 16133, 16133P .
1987-93 5.0 Yes 5.75" Serp Driver Alum No 8840, 8845 16173, 16173P Alt bracket 
. . . . . . . . . .
1994-95 5.0 No ? Serp Driver Alum No . 16183, 16183P Not Interchangeable
8440 8443

Dipstick and Oil Pan

The early model chassis requires you to use a front sump oil pan. The late-model pan uses a rear sump. It's no problem to swap this stuff; just install a front sump oil pickup & pan. You could sell the pan to someone who's doing a Ranger 302 swap, or to someone building another 5.0. It's also nice to use the oil pan stiffening rails that come on the late model.

The dipstick on the late models is in the rear. You need to plug up this hole in the block by tapping the hole and putting a bolt in it covered with sealant. Relocate the dipstick to the front cover. If you're using the old 289/302 cover, this isn't a problem 'cause it already has the dipstick. However, if you're using the 89-93 front cover, you can just drill a 11/32" hole in the boss provided (and the bracket above it). If you have a 94-95 front cover, you're SOL. It doesn't have a boss for you to drill into or a dipstick, and it uses a special water pump that costs $109 special order, so you'll have to use another cover.

Also, you could use a Canton oil pan with the dipstick already mounted in it.
 

Exhaust

Use your early exhaust, as it will bolt right up. The late-model headers won't fit. If you're going EFI, you'll have to weld fittings for the O2 sensors in the headers. Look at a late model to see where they go; they are important to the computer.  I have long tube headers - I just had the bosses welded into the exhaust after the collectors.

Tip for O2 bungs - Buy an 18mm spark plug non-fouler, it is a Help! part found in most stores.  Cut the ends off, and you have bungs for less than 5 bucks!  I didnt believe it worked until I tried it.
 

Other Issues related to engine swap

You can bolt up your old carb & intake. It will fit, but don't block the coolant passages in the intake gaskets.

You must use the correct cam gear (on distributor) for your cam. Late model roller cams need a different distributor gear than early ones.

You can use the stock early model motor mounts (now is a good time to replace them.)

If you use the late model front cover, it doesn't have a provision for the mechanical fuel pump. You'll need an electric one and/or a cover plate.
 


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Disclaimer: As with any mechanical type work, there are inherent dangers. I am not responsible for any damage to property, injury, etc. Don't trust this article as completely accurate.

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