Mt Boyce
Selected Climb Descriptions (Updated October 2007)
These are mostly sports routes fully equipped with ring bolts. Trad routes and routes with glued in carrots are noted as such.
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Absquealers (Halfway between Browntown and Abseil Gully)
Penny Arcade ** 54m (20, 18, 18)
Climbs the prominent arête visible looking north 200m across the valley from the top of the Mt Boyce Abseil Wall area. It is possible to get to the climb from Abseil Wall. Going along the top requires a bit of bushbashing for the first few minutes; going along the bottom requires some grovelling through the undergrowth at the waterfall. If you're not already at the crag then the best access, from either Mt Boyce Car Park 2 or Fairy Bower car park, is as described below. The route is in the shade until 1.00PM in summer.Access:
Find the yellow sign beside the railway line mentioned in pages 111-112 of
the Carter/Pircher 3rd Edition Blue Mountains guidebook. (GPS coordinates
S 33° 36.275', E 150° 15.979'). Take the track opposite the sign,
walking down for about five minutes to an abseilers' picnic area (benches
made from planks). Turn left here and follow the track down between the pagodas.
Another few minutes walk brings you to a huge picnic cave - currently featuring
a folded blue tarpaulin in the cave and a table beside the track. About 10
metres past the cave there is a side track going right and than leftwards
down into the gully. Look for a huge tree (1m diameter) on the right of this
side track just after it starts.
Wind down into the gully and at the bottom you will be walking along the base with the cliff on your left. Soon you reach the absquealers' landing pad, a trampled area under a massive overhang. Step over the rock on the far side of this space and follow a less distinct path along the base. After about 40m you will come to a rocky platform beneath an undercut, at the far end of which there is a 150mm diameter log, with a few metal steps, placed vertically against the cliff. (GPS coordinates S 33° 36.455', E 150° 15.897').
P1 (20) 18m
Up the log then awkwardly into the corner. Layback moves and backstep followed
by a thin face move (crux) to a decent stance above the third bolt. Very balancy
leftwards traverse around the blunt arête with good feet and poor hand
holds (this could be the crux depending on your preferred climbing style).
After this, slabby moves up and left. 6 RB to DRB hanging belay.
P2 (18) 18m
Sustained at the grade, wandering slightly left but mostly right of the bolt
line (even sneaking around the arête) to find the holds. Some nice arête
moves towards the top. 4FH, 3RB to DRB hanging belay.
P3 (18) 18m
One reachy move low down, then easing higher up until topping out into pleasant
spot under a prow. The belay bolts are at the back of the cave. 7RB to DRB
belay.
Pitches 2 and 3 could be combined if you have enough draws and don't mind dragging 35m of rope at the top.
Escape:
Walk a few metres left (facing in), then scramble up 5m and left 2m to join
the top track. Turn left to head back towards the big picnic cave, or right
to head to Abseil Wall.
Niall Doherty, Roger Bourne 4 February 2007
Note: If the first pitch is too hard for you, it is possible to rap in to
do pitches 2 and 3. Instead of following the side track at the huge picnic
cave, continue along the top track for five minutes, passing the abseil launch
area (many bolts and rungs above the track, pile of carpet underneath) until
a sharp turn left at a square cut boulder under a huge overhanging prow. (GPS
coordinates S 33° 36.455', E 150° 15.897'). At this point walk right
and down off the track 2m, then scramble down right 5m and walk left under
the prow to the belay. You'll have to leave the rap rope in place as you won't
be able to pull it.
Abseil Gully
Only new climbs and corrections to Pircher 2002 are described here.
Navel Excavator ** 15m (20 trad + carrots) Starts on the ledge above the big overhang on the north side of Abseil Gully. Rap in from the large expanse of bare rock off three carrots, clipping in to carrots on the way down (pic). Put on clean undies. Belay on double rings. Pull through the steep stuff and struggle onto the wall. A couple of good wires here or just run it out 5m to the next carrot then pumpilly up. Take big bolt plates as the carrot heads haven't been filed. (J Smoothy, R Bourne 2005)
This Aint Gardening 45m (22 trad + carrots) NOT in the place suggested in the Pircher guide. Takes the vague arete and wall on the right of the giant overhang. Not much gear and probably has never had a second ascent. (R Young, M Portman, 1994)
Scruffocide
18m (17)
Aceldama 15m (17) Neither of these look too inspiring in their present
state.
------- Abseil Gully --------------------------
Abseil Slab * (7)
Frank & Joe (19)
Abseil Arete * (8)
Abseil Corner (11)
Eagle Wall (15)
The Eyrie *** 50m (12 trad) A bit of a classic but also a bit low on protection. Start 5m right of arete and head up trending left to arete (not right as described in Pircher). There are a few wire and small cam placements. Belay in cave on chains. Exit cave on the left and pass a couple of carrots on the way to the top. (J Worrall, H Ward, 1969)
New routes by Glenn Short:
WEAPONS OF MASS DECEPTION 50m (19/20???) Atomospheric. Start 4m? Right of Afghan Wall. Straight up past BRs, numerous friends and FHs. Through rooflet at 40m and up headwall to top. Take a full set of cams. DBB (Glenn Short & Pam Mort 2004)
COMPASSION OVERBOARD 50m (17/18??) Start 3m right of WOMD?? Up past friends, BRs and FHs. Almost meets Kabhul Offensive then veers left through notch in rooflet to headwall and up to DBB. (Glenn Short and Pam Mort 2004)
QUERILOUS JOURNEY 50m (21??) Start 2m left of Flaws in the Glass. Build a cairn on ledge (difficult due to crack in ledge) or batman first bolt. Up on jugs following bolts through thin face to eventually meet Girl in the Mirror at small pedestal below top. TBB (Pam Mort & Glenn Short 2004)
Instead of the usual approach from Walkdown Gully the following routes at Toad Hall can be accessed from Car Park 2. On the descent to Abseil Gully a rough path leads 100m left to the big pagoda. Descend on the left side of this then follow the track right. When the track swings right again follow the ridge down left to a flat open platform at the top of Licking Holes Creek. The flat topped prow just before this is the top of Jugantor. Two 25m abseils down LHC get you to the bottom. Dont try to rap down Jugantor.
Toad Hall
The Master's Eggs *** 60m (23) Gritstone climbing on perfect rock. The beautiful orange arete 50m left of One Of The Best. P1 (23) 25m. Start off tree at right end of slab. Thin traverse left to the arete then ecstatically up (pic1, pic2, pic3). The rounded arete leads to some beautifully polished scoops. Pull past these and make some thin moves to gain the flake above. Straight up the wall above. P2. (23) 28m. Sidle left and then straight up the slab on invisible holds. Up the arte and then up the bulge. Bicycle in space for a while then up the wall. Rap off double U's or continue 15m to the top (about grade 20). (R Bourne, C Frost, P1 2004, P2 2007).
?Femalis 70m (9) The location of this climb is uncertain but it may be the chimney between Eggs and OOTB.
One of the Best *** 45m (26) An absolutely awesome line. Do it in one monster 45m pitch or double rings semi-hanging belay half way up. No cams necessary any more. Rap twice or tow a second rope, though its hard enough doing the thin top crux with the full weight of one rope. A 65m rope permits lowering and retying at the first belay. (G Bradbury, J Smoothy 1990) Rebolted by Martin Pircher (top) and Roger Bourne (bottom) (2002-2004) with permission from GB/JS.
Plastic Sturgeon ** 45m (24) Orthopaedic more likely by all accounts. Megan Turnbull had to build a cairn on a ledge by rope-hauling stones up one by one. Two pitches. Towards the top of the second pitch think about the name of the climb and grope around for a "hold" in a place you wouldnt expect to find one. Rap twice or take two ropes. (A Duckwoth, M Pircher 2002)
?Irk-Er-Drab 60m (13M0) The location of this climb is uncertain but it may be the vegetated slab/corner between PS and Jugantor.
Cat's in the Cradle ** 53m (19) This
three pitch bolted route ascends the dark grey slab between Plastic Sturgeon
and Jugantor.
Starts at the bottom left of the slab, just right of a vegetated diagonal
crack/ramp. P1 (17) 20m Awkward start from horizontal tree trunk just above
the track. Up trending right for 10m to gain break with hands, then traverse
right for 10m to DRB in large horizontal break. 9 RB to hanging belay. P2
(19) 25m Toughish face moves for a few metres, then the angle eases to a thin
slab, with a very balancy crux 3/4 way up. Trust your feet! 10 RB to DRB belay
on good stance. P3 (16) 8m Up trending right to bulge with large ironstone
flakes, over bulge then easily up. 5 RB to DRB on good ledge. Niall
Doherty, Peter Chaly 14 Oct 2006
*** GPS coordinates for the top of the Jugantor prow: S 33° 36.795', E 150° 15.874'
Jugantor ** 60m (24) On first inspection this line appeared to be a juggy 19. Apart from the cruxes and the wierd traverse it still is. Start about 5m left of the single Banksia tree in the middle of the wall. A short length of chain dangles from the second bolt for reasons which will become obvious. 1. 15m (24) Pull up into the groove and traverse bizarrely left about 10m (pic) then straight up wall. Falling seconds may be lost in space so consider bringing prussic loops. 2. 15m (24) Up the perfect grey wall past one hard move at the second ring. 3. 30m (24) A wee bit tricky getting up the slab and then left across it. Tight shoes recommended. Steep jugging follows (pic). Double rings on ledge 2m below the top. Easiest descent is rapping down LHC (R Bourne, T Shurmer 2003)
Licking Holes Creek ** 60m (24) 1. 10m (23) Start just left of an old "H" (Haggis) painted on the wall at the left side of the rough grey slab. All sorts of technical balancing acts to get to and past first bolt then cruise up the arete. 2. 15m (24) Awkward move up onto flake then start traversing airily left and up then easily left across the beautifully pocketed orange wall. Use left of two rings on steep wall above (crux). 3. 20m (20) Climb the corner and or the arête (pic). Go right at the roof and up the grey wall. Rap off double rings or walk out. (R Bourne, A Duckworth 2003)Lap Lap Land * 20m (23) An alternative finish to Licking Holes Creek with lots of good holds all misplaced. Up the flake then up the wall. Stick clip (BYO stick) first bolt or take care. (R Bourne, G Bradbury 2003)
Haggis 35m (12 trad) Start at the giant boulder, not at the "H" below LHC. Up the grey wall trending right. Sparse protection but nice climbing. Walk up the gully and rap off rings at top of LHC.
Smallpox Wall
(Up above Spoilt Brats Wall. Best access is to walk
in from above)
Hey Big Sender 8m (23) Spend as little time as possible with this one. Stay on the left of the arête for a metre or so. (M. Pircher 2002)
The Hintenbumsen Disaster ** 13m (26) Would have been a worthless 25/V8 but for divine intervention. Small holds a long way apart. Normal size, normal strength climbers should add several moves and a grade (pic). (R. Bourne 2002)
Vampy the Buffed Boy Slayer ** 9m (24) Possibly what Ducker's aspires to be. A great variety of moves and, when dogged, the best warmup on the cliff (pic). (A. Duckworth 2002)
Unleash the Mighty Mongrel * 9m (23) Turn hard right before hitting the top. (M. Pircher 2002)
Actionman * 9m (22) It might be 22 if you are really warmed up - otherwise forearm torture. (S. Bell, M. File 2002)
Hey Obese Sender? (just another suggestion). The probability of going recedes in proportion to the ever lengthening waistline of its owner. (Felix Pircher project. 2015????)
Mighty Hermaphrodite * 10m (23) Hmmmm, you've got to wonder about Duckers. Go right to the arête when the goin' gets tough. (A Duckworth 2002)
Spoilt Brats Wall
Shades of Grey * 30m (22) A good way to get to Smallpox from the bottom of the cliff. You can also rap this route to get to the bottom from Smallpox. Stick clip first ring in case the glue reinforcing the first hold gives up. (J Smoothy 2002)
Ritalin 30m (23) Start as for Shades of Grey (?first three bolts) then head up right (S Bell, 2003)
Cirrus Maximus * 30m (24) Start as for SoG then head up right. A very hard "mantle" gets you onto the wall and great sustained climbing follows. (F Yule, 2001)
Project (F Yule)
Sisters of Mercy * 30m (23 M1) Pull on the bolt to get through the smooth section. The rest is reported to be good. Start at first belay of Spoilt Brats (G Bradbury, 1987)
Spoilt Brats and Gash Attacks *** 40m (21) Pumpy for the grade but excellent climbing and rivals Firebug for the most popular climb at Mt Boyce. 1. 15m Easy trad climb with a few wires to get to a double ring belay. 2. 25m. Up the line of rings to another double ring belay on a ledge (pic). Most like to put a small wire in the initial flake. A variant (Sleepwalk For The Last Time) goes up the wall left of the corner. 3. 15m. Rarely bothered with. Better to traverse left to Smallpox (medium cams) or rap off. (C Martin, A Penney, 1884)
Infant Terror ** 45m (23) Branches right off 2nd pitch of Spoilt Brats (A Duckworth, P Quach 2002)
Minor Threat * 20m (20) Abseil approach to rings at end of 2nd pitch of Infant Terror. Double rings at the top. (S Bell, H Hooper, 2002)
Sleepwalk for the Last Time * 50m (17? rings + trad) The description in Pircher 2002 is incorrect. 1) 15m as for Spoilt Brats to double ring belay. 2) 20m. Traverse left along the series of ledges clipping rings and whacking in a few cams here and there until you reach the bottom of the lumpy grey slab. 3) 15m. Up the slab to Smallpox wall. Scramble off left or abseil down Shades of Grey (60m rope). (C Martin, J Smoothy, ?1990s).
Solo Gully
Curtains for the Khymer 25m (22). Needs rebolting. A few metres left of 25th Floor. (M Grey, J Smoothy 1981)
The 25th Floor *** 25m (24) Very good fun and unusual climbing but a little intimidating due to the gloomy setting. Gets about 2 minutes sunlight on a sunny day. Stick clip first ring or take a few cams. Small/medium cams attenuate the excitement about half way up. Excellent summer retreat and there is a good place to watch the fun from the ledge on the other side of the chasm (access this from above the big chockstones further up Solo Gully). Lower off chains. (Mal Grey 1981) Rebolted by Roger Bourne (2004).
The following routes are on the left (facing out) side of the chasm.
Fallen Zimbra Warriors 25m (21) Up overhang past piton and four carrots to tree. Undoubtably in need of rebolting but probably not worth it. (C Martin, L Trihey 1984)
Hands Up 45m (20 trad?) Not inspiring. Included here for the sake of completeness. (C Martin, R Chick 1984)
Hands Down 60m (13 trad) Not too bad as a trad lead with moderately good gear and nice rock. Start at "HD" on ledge at bottom left (facing out) of Solo Gully. 1. 20m (8) Skulk along scarey ledge to step down move and across to belay behind tree on big grey ledge. 2. 30m (13) Back to step down move then straight up the wall/slab above. (K. Joyce, B. Postil 1972).
Shock Wall
(The following routes can also be accessed by abseiling in off the rings at the top of Shock and Awe. Two ropes will get you to the start of pitch 2 of Wild is the Wind. With only one rope rap to cave and then rap again. Many parties rap in to do the last pitch(22) of S&A)
Wild is the Wind *** 70m (15 trad + carrots) Start on boulder at obvious large tree in bottom of Solo Gully. Left side facing out. P1. 20m (14) Up to carrot then traverse right (about 3 small cams and a wire). Up and right past 2 more carrots (below small tree) to double ring belay at far side of large ledge. P2. 25m (15) Clip carrot above tree and tricky moves (crux) to gain wall left of the corner. Small cams and wires in corner. Step right onto steep wall and follow carrots right then up the steep grey juggy wall to cave/ledge (pic1, pic2). #3 Camalot in pocket 2m below cave. Double rings on back wall of cave. P3. 20m (15) Move to double carrot belay at left end of cave. Step left gingerly into space and pull up onto ledge (crux). Head easily up past 3 carrots to carrot on top and double rings (over to right) or big tree belay. (T Shurmer, R Bourne 2003)
Far Q2 43m (13M3) The sort of thing people did in the old days. Trample some plants then peg up an ugly roof for an hour or two then trivial climbing up the corner above. (B Posthill, K Royce, S Royce 1972).
Shock And Awe ** 70m (25) Traverse in around ledge at the bottom of Solo Gully. This is easy but a bit scarey. Can be protected with a couple of medium cams. Belay on double rings near grey arete. 1. 20m (22) Descend and climb out to arete. Ring just around the corner. Now traverse right and slightly downward (pic) on pumpy jugs to double ring semi-hanging belay. 2. 25m (25) Crank and heelhook madly up to the horizontal break for a lie down rest in the slot. Thin and reachy power cranking gets you up the next blank section, then more easily up to the steep headwall. Straight up to double rings in the cave roof, or (the original line), traverse right and up to the Angels belay. 3. 20m (22) Move to double rings at the left end of the cave. Pull up through the roof crack and then onto the hanging orange wall. Up the wall diagonally right and then pull through the roof above to the left of the rings. Double rings belay over to the left. (R Bourne, 2003)
EASY APPROACH: Off the ledge at the bottom of Firebug. Stick clip first ring and batman up to spike. Up 6m to ledge and traverse left 10m.
The Ass Of The Angel
*** 25m (27?) Utterly absorbing climbing all the way with two tricky
cruxes.
APPROACH: Off the ledge at the bottom
of Firebug. Stick clip first ring and batman up to spike. Up 6m to ledge and
traverse left 6m
along the big break to double rings in small corner.
Straight up the wall above the belay (first crux). After about 8m things get
easier but by no means boring till you get to the roof. Rest here squeezed
into an owl's roost. Pull up past the scoop above the roof and then traverse
left 2m (second crux) before heading up to double ring belay. (R
Bourne 2003)
Shock ** 20m (22) The first pitch of S&A is worth an outing on its own. Rap 15m down to the ground afterwards.
Project The arete and roof right of Ass of the Angel. (A Duckworth)
Firebug Mall
Say Cheese For High 'n Wild * 30m (21 trad + carrots) Follow the description in Pircher carefully - dont head out left into the never-never. (A. Duckworth, 2001)
Firebug ** 60m (17/18 trad) Classic trad climb. Take all conventional wigglies including big cams (pic). (Ewbank/Fantini, circa. 1500BC)
Light My Fire ** 20m (20) Very exciting climbing on the edge of the abyss. Abseil 20m from rings to the ledge with a long horizontal chain. Take a couple of bolt plates if you dont like the initial run out (pic). Start easily up the slab and continue on the lip of the abyss till below the hanging grey slab. Pull onto this from the right side then ever more steeply up the overhanging headwall (pic). There are two bolted exits - the one to the left being a little more interesting. A very hard crank attains the summit jugs. (R Bourne, 2003)
Superbug *** 20m (26) A technical and strenuous crux leads to airy but non-trivial hauling up the arete. (S. Bell, 2002)
Bug Proboscis ** 15m (24) An even more airy finish to Superbug. Lower off chain if you have a 60m rope. (R. Bourne, 2004)
Better Than Wife *** 30m (27) Unbelievably good fun with fantastic climbing all the way. Start as for Bug Free at the ugly undercut arete. Up the arete to the 3rd ring then heel hook out left to the roof. Pull through then crimp and scoop up the blank wall above (pic). Easy cruising up to the headwall and a vague rest. Step down left and then power back up right through another pumpy crux. Lower off rings with 60m rope. (R Bourne 2004)
Bug Free ** 30m (25) (all rings) Formerly the aid route Bronze Orange Bug. The ugly looking bottom is in fact quite OK and more solid than you might first think. Pumpy up through the roof to crimp dyno crux, then easily up the beautiful corner and scoops. Lower off possible with 60m rope. (A Duckworth 2003)
Baby Carrots *** 35m (13) (13 bolt plates) Position, Position, Position (pic). The easiest sports climb in the mountains and the most exciting belay stance. Take two ropes. Abseil (35m) from rings past chains on pleasant ledge down corner and slab (right side facing cliff). Hook rope thru steel hook on right arete, and continue 15m down to double rings above small cave on the hanging arête (pic). Climb out in one pitch (35m) or belay on picnic ledge. Extend most of the draws or you will have rope drag problems. (T Shurmer, R. Bourne 2003)
Air2Spare *** 35m (12 trad + carrots) (10 bolt plates) Similar to Baby Carrots but a slightly less scarey belay! Walk to the top of Goldstar (via picnic area or top of Baby Carrots. Abseil rings are in the "cave" 10m right (facing out) of Goldstar. Abseil 35m past ten carrots trending slightly left (facing cliff). It helps to clip the abseil rope into a couple of the carrots. Double rings belay on a grey nose about 20m above the ground. Take care not to abseil past the belay as ascent may be highly problematic. A 50m rope wont reach the ground but a 60 does. Take medium wires, slings, large hexes, and a few medium cams. (Paul Turner, Susan Hoerlein, Aug 2004)
Walk Down Gully
Vincent HRD 20m (21 trad) Originally an aid route (Jenkins/Joyce/Posthill 1972) the diagonal crack was cleaned and freed by John Smoothy. Now festooned with ferns. Best to leave it that way.
Thruxton 60m (19 trad) This hard corner (5m left of Goldstar) was once a popular testpiece. Now popular with vegetation only. (B Allen, W Williams, 1972)
Velocete 15m (15 trad) Up the arete 5m left of Goldstar past one carrot. Wander up past tree and rap off first belay of Goldstar. (Smoothy, 80s)
Manx/Bonnieville 40m (14 trad) Up crack and groove 2m left of Goldstar. Looks uninspiring and difficult to see where the routes differ. (Postil gang, 1972)
Cow Chaser * 20m (18trad + carrots) Start as for Manx/Bonnieville then follow the carrots up the wall and over the boulder/roof at the top. Take small cams, a medium wire, and a #3 Camalot or similar for the start. (Paul Turner, R Bourne 2004)
Goldstar ** 60m (19/20 trad) Superb clean classic crack. Start on a ledge about ten metres right (facing out) of the bottom of Walk Down Gully. 1. 20m (16) Up the crack in the grey wall on perfect rock past a bizzare coffin slot. Double ring belay on comfy ledge. 2. 30m (19/20) Dont believe that old tripe about this being grade 18. Some serious jamming is required. Either go up the blank slab above the rings or up the crack on the left then across to peg in crack. (B Allen, R Lassman)
Lodestar ** 20m (16 trad) Just the first pitch of Goldstar. Excellent climbing on good rock. Lower off rings on ledge.
The vague arete right of Goldstar has some ancient carrots placed by Glenn Robins in the early 80s. Its not known whether he ever completed the route all the way to the top.
Half Life 35m (21) Not easy to work out where this is.
The following routes are on the left side (going down) of Walkdown Gully.
Diversion, Roughly Yours, The Wages Of Sin. All worth forgetting.
Gently Mine ** 20m (14 trad) The diagonal flake/crack. A very nice introduction to trad climbing and about the easiest safe route at this end of Boyce. Good pro from wires to medium sized cams. Lower off chains on ledge. (L Smith, W Williams, 1968)
Divide and Dissolve 20m (23 trad + carrots) Up the blankish wall 2m right of Gently Mine past a carrot or two. Not too bad. (C Martin, J Smoothy, G James, 1985)
Pig Iron Slaughter ** 20m (21 trad + carrots) Prototype sports route from the 80s. You still need cams to get up to the first carrot on the arete. (A Penney, J Smoothy, L Trihey, 1984)
Gates of Janus ** 20m (16 trad) Classic corner reminiscent of Frog Buttress. At the top of the corner the route steps right and goes up the crack
Took Crook, Sally, Kite Eater, Peppermint Pattie, Charlie Brown, Pig Pen
Freewheeling ** 20m (17 trad+carrots) Very nice climb up the orange wall about 40m right of Janus. A #3.5 Friend is useful below the first bolt. (J Smoothy, A Penny 1984)
Schulz Sux, Craigs Effort
Snoopy (14) Should have been called Lucy. Keep off this thing. Nasty accident in 2003.
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(See www.geocities.com/mountboyce for pictures and updates).
