Wasatch Front Rock Climbs

Directions: From the north - Take I-215 to the 33rd South exit. From the exit, turn left (east) on to 33rd south. On the other side of the freeway is Wastch Blvd. Turn left (north) on to this road. Follow it parallel to the freeway until it ends in a small parking lot. From the south - Take I-215 to the 45th/39th/33rd south exit. After exiting, turn left (north) on to Wasatch Blvd. Follow Wasatch until 33rd So. Turn right (east) on to 33rd, followed very quickly by a left on to Wasatch, which parallels the freeway. This road ends in a parking lot. There are a few concrete barriers keeping you from driving farther. Follow the dirt road past these barriers uphill, until a trail branches left. Follow this trail to the top of the wall. Walk east along the top of the wall to a trail which descends to the bottom. This trail is very steep, and is a pain to get down.
Pick Pocket 5.8 This route is one of the better climbs at the Iron Curtain Wall, despite its shortness. It is the far left climb on the wall, just right of a rotten arete. It has 2 bolts and 2 pitons, so it can be sport climbed. There are also 2 bolts at the top for the rap off.
Pick Pocket Experiences - This route is one of our most commonly climbed route at Iron Curtain besides Up In A Flash. Keith took a lead fall while leading here in July, 2000.
Mutation 5.9 This route is not quite as good as Pick Pocket, but is a decent climb. It starts about 25 feet to the right of Pick Pocket, just to the right of a large rotten crack. It goes straight up through 4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Mutation Experiences - Back in 1997, we climbed this route before we owned rock shoes. It was very hard without shoes, but Duane, James, Andrew, Isaac, Keith, and Don T did it without shoes, as well as Jon and Chris with shoes. We have don it a number of times since.
Motley Cruise 5.9 This route starts just right of Mutation, and shares the same anchor bolts. Go past 2 bolts and a piton, then begin to cut slightly to the left past 2 more bolts to the anchor.
Motley Cruise Experiences - This route was also done by the same guys back in '97 without shoes. It has also been done a number of times since then.
Up In A Flash 5.8 This route is my favorite at Iron Curtain, since it leads out in 1 full lead pitch, so you don't have to hike out the crappy trail. It is located about 30 feet right of the rotten crack next to Mutation, and leads to a ledge half way up, keeping halfway in between the edge of the cliff on the left and a large corner to the right. The crux is at the bottom, below the ledge, and above there is 5.7 climbing.
Up In A Flash Experiences - This route has always been plagued by nightfall and canyon winds for us. We save it until last, so we can lead out in 1 pitch, but sometimes we wait too late. James got a rope stuck here in 1997, which Jon had to retrieve in the dark. James and Keith had to climb out in the dark, unable to hear each other because of high winds in 1999. Jon and James turned this into 2 pitches to teach Matt how to lead in 1999. Other than that, it's been done many more times in the sun with low or no wind.

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Directions: Take the Big Cottonwood Canyon Road (Ft Union) east from Wastch Blvd until you reach Storm Mountain Picnic area. There are 2 options. 1. Park in the picnic area lot, and pay the fee. 2. The climber way: park just uphill at the historic landmark sign. Cross the road, and head down the talus slope to the west, leading to a fence. Hop the fence, and you're in. The rock wall is on the opposite side of the stream, and you must use the picnic area bridge to get across.
Le Creme De Shorts 5.9 To reach this climb and the 3 below, cross the bridge from the parking lot, and follow the trail to the left. It leads to the start of Layback and this route, which lead to Nice Little Crack and Storm Mountain Stupor. This crack is on the face to the left of Layback Crack, and is narrower than Layback, and about as good.
Layback Crack 5.5 This crack is one of the best routes on Storm Mountain Island. Beware, this crack likes to eat pro that is not placed well, and remnants of a poorly placed cam are present near the top of the first pitch. There are bolts located at the top of the first pitch. The route continues up the main crack to 3 variations near the top. The normal route follows the crack around to a belay ledge which can be bypassed to top out. The variation to the left does the overhang to the ledge. The variation to the right cuts right to another crack which leads to the top.
Layback Crack Experiences - This route is probably our most climbed route at Storm Mountain for the first pitch. It was free-soloed by James and Keith in 1999, but it is not recommended that you try this. Chris, Jon, and James were rained off of this one in April of 1999, and got Chris' rope stuck as well.
Nice Little Crack 5.5 This crack starts on a ledge about 40-50 feet above the stream. You can get to it by climbing Layback Crack and going left across a ledge to the base of the climb, which is marked by a carpet. Walk to the top of the island to hike down vai a ledge leading right from the 2 bolts which make up the anchor at the top of this route.
Nice Little Crack Experiences - This route has been done a lot by us, and was James' first real trad lead.
Storm Mountain Stupor 5.5 This corner crack is just a few feet to the right of Nice Little Crack. It follows the corner to the same ledge and descent routes as Nice Little Crack.
Storm Mountain Stupor Experiences - Not quite as good as Nice Little Crack, this one is usually done as a toprope after leading Nice Little Crack.
Goodro's Wall 5.10c This trad climb is considered one of the best in this area of the Wasatch. It can be reached by crossing the bridge from the parking lot, heading left, then immediatly right. Past the first picnic site is a trail leading right to the base of this climb, as well as Six Appeal and Epic Wall. This crack heads straight up and to the right to 2 bolts at a tree at the top.
Goodro's Wall Experiences - None of us have ever successfully lead Goodro's, but we have attempted it on toprope with varying degrees of success on occaison.
Six Appeal 5.6 This 6 bolt route is on the wall next to Goodro's and is a decent sport climb up the face to a 2 bolt rap station.
Six Appeal Experiences - This route hasn't been done that often by us, but has been done a few times after failed attempts on Goodro's.
Epic Wall 5.5 This route is located about halfway between Goodro's and Sixpence, but is longer than both. It leads up the wall to a ledge as the first belay. A variation that is 5.6 runs parallel to the same ledge on the right. From the ledge, go up to 2 parallel cracks. The left one is 5.5 and the right one is 5.6. These both lead to the top, and a walk off.
Six Pence 5.6 We feel that the 5.6 rating is a little high for this route, but it is still a good route. It follows 6 bolts to a 2 bolt rap station.
Six Pence Experiences - We used to race up this route to see who could sport lead the fastest. In some cases we could get up this route in 2 minutes.
Six Pence Trad Style 5.8 If you cut right on the face after the second bolt on Sixpence, you can place trad pro (mostly small and micro nuts) all the way to the top. Use the same rap bolts, and beware of swinging into the large crack to the right when toproping.
Six Pence Trad Style Experiences - Jon and James did this route to show how this sport climb could be trad lead. We highly doubt this is a FA, but it isn't in the Wasatch Rock Climbing Bible.
The Flake 5.5 From the Ampitheater, this route is in the corner just to the left of the large roof above the ampitheater. Follow the corner crack up and right around 2 overhangs to a good belay ledge. For the second pitch, climb the wall and main crack on the wall to your right. Walk off the top.
The Flake Experiences - This is the climb we do after trying to boulder the Amphitheater Overhang or Big In Japan. It has been done a few times by us.
Amphitheater Overhang Left 5.12d Well, we have never climbed this beast, but it is a good bouldering problem. It actually requires a dyno to the lip according to the Wasatch Rock Bible.
Big In Japan 5.12b Once again, none of us have climbed it, but we always stop here to boulder on the lower moves when we're at Storm Mountain. None of us have made it past the second bolt.
Amphitheater Traverse V0 When we boulder here, we commonly do the traverse of the base of the wall which starts at the bottom of The Flake, and goes all the way to the bottom of Big In Japan. James did the first traverse, but others have done it. It's just not in the Wasatch Rock Bible.

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Directions: Take the Big Cottonwood Canyon Road (Ft Union) east from Wasatch Blvd until you reach Storm Mountain Picnic area. Park on the right (south) side of the road across from the picnic area entrance. There is a trail which heads south into Stairs Gulch from the road. Follow this trail until another trail branches off to the right (west) to cross the Stairs Gulch stream. This trail leads to the base of the cliff.
East Dihedrals 5.6 Head about 20 feet uphill of the main arete to start this route. Head straight up until a roof intersects from the left for the first pitch. The second pitch follows the crack directly above. Just above the belay is the crux. Continue up the crack to a third belay, just after the crack opens up. The final short pitch is very easy and leads to the rappell anchors. There is a 3 pitch rappell. You do not follow the route you came up to go down. You go to the left on the face there for the anchors.
East Dihedrals Experiences - This was the final climb before James left for the Navy. He and Chris did this one.
Jig's Up 5.6This route starts on the left side of the main arete on this wall. It cuts straight up and a little right to a small roof. This is the top of the first pitch. From here, continue straight up to the right of the roof, until a large horizontal crack is reached. This is the top of the second pitch. Follow a crack straight to the top, and use the rap off to get down.
Jig's Up Experiences - This route is the first trad lead James did following his recovery from his broken leg. He did it with Keith, Jon, and Duane. Also, Keith nearly stepped on a rattlesnake on the hike out of this one.
Steort's Ridge 5.6 This route shares the same first pitch of Jig's Up. From the first belay position, head up to the right, and follow the crack leading up to a second belay. From that belay, follow a shorter third pitch past a bolt to the top. Use the same rap off as the other routes on this wall.
North Dihedrals 5.6 This route starts about 25 feet from the base of Steort's Ridge/Jig's Up, on the north side of the arete. This route is generally done as 4 pitches instead of 3 like the rest on this wall. Start in a vegetated corner, and head straight up to the first belay. From the belay, head up and to the right through a 5.5 pitch to a second belay position. Go straight up for a shorter third pitch to a good belay position. Follow the corner crack through the 5.6 crux to the top.

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Directions: Take the Big Cottonwood Canyon Road (Ft Union) east from Wasatch Blvd until you reach

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Directions: Take Wasatch Blvd until , which is between Ft Union and Bengal Blvd. Turn east onto this road. Park your car here, below the water tanks, and follow the trail into Ferguson Canyon.
Extreme Unction 5.10a
Ferguson Canyon Experiences - Though rain and rude climbers have kept us away in the past, there turned out to be good climbing in Ferguson Canyon. Our first time there, in May, 1999, Jon, Chris, and James were trad leading Extreme Unction, when a father and son dropped a toprope on us, and rappelled right on to us, and claimed this was there route. After holding Chris down so he wouldn't beat them, we conceded and let them climb the route. The worst part was, they didn't get half as far as we did before giving up and abandoning the route. Our second time trying this climb was in July 2000, when it ended up raining as soon as we got there. However, Jon has been setting up a new route in Ferguson that probably runs 11a or 11b according to Dan, Matt, and Keith, who have all attempted it.

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Directions: Take The Little Cottonwood Canyon Road east from the junction of 9400 So. and Wasatch Blvd. There is a turnout on the left (north) side of the road with a power box. Park here. A trail leads north towards the rock.
Crack In The Woods 5.9 This climb starts at the far left end of Crescent Crack Buttress. It begins on the right side of a large gully, and follows a crack to a ledge with rap off bolts.
Crack In The Woods Experiences - This climb is where James got a small scar on his right side, while learning not to lead climb without a shirt. Also, James and Jon found a nice Tri-cam here, and worked it out.
Hand Jive 5.8 This route can be done as the second pitch of Crack In The Woods by reaching to the far right into a crack leading to a bolt belay.

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Directions:

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Directions:

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Directions: Take the Little Cottonwood Canyon road east until a power substation is reached, 1.9 miles up the canyon. Park in the turnout here, and cross the bridge over Little Cottonwood Creek. After the bridge, turn left on to the trail ahead. Follow this trail until a less noticable trail cuts right (south). Follow this trail until a large boulder field is reached. Cut southwest across the boulders towards the mouth of Coalpit Gulch. There is a trail which resumes on the other side of the boulder field, which leads to Pentapitch, and on to Coalpit Gulch
Pentapitch 5.8 This route begins at the first wall reached on the trail after the boulder field. It follows a crack and flake system to a ledge with anchors and a small tree. There is a piton located just below the first pitch crux move (5.6). The second pitch follows a crack from the tree, followed by a crossover to a parallel crack, passing under an overhang, and on to a larger ledge. The third pitch starts a little bit above the second, which can be walked up. It follows diagonal cracks up and left to 3 bolts, which are just below the crux (5.8). Many climbers rap off these bolts if unable to do the crux. The crux is left of the bolts, and the route then heads up to the top. There is one bolt after the crux on the way to the top. Belay bolts exist at the top to make 2 rappels to the Sasquatch rappel bolts. There are bolts at the top of Sasquatch which allow you to rappell down to the ground in 2 pitches.
Pentapitch Experiences - This route is probably favorite to most of us. This is where Dan and Matt did their first trad lead. James and Jon tried to do this one in March of '99, but you could make it almost to the tree on snow. All of us have also found booty on this one as well.
Sasquatch 5.9+ This route is an alternate to the second pitch of Pentapitch. From the top of the first pitch of Pentapitch, head right to a tree which is the bottom of Sasquatch. The route is a crack which leads to a ledge at the top where the top of the second pitch of Pentapitch is located. Use the 2 bolts, and a tree with webbing lower down to rappell to the ground in 2 pitches.
Sasquatch Experiences - This route is the gateway to 5.10 trad lead. It is also one of our favorites.
Japanese Terraces 5.8 This route parallels Pentapitch to the left for the second and third pitches. From the bolts at the top of the first pitch of Pentapitch, head left a few feet to a crack which leads to the same tree which is at the top of the second pitch of Pentapitch. The third pitch starts just to the left of the tree at the bottom of the third pitch of Pentapitch. It leads to a tree and ledge which make a great belay for the fourth pitch to the rap bolts for Pentapitch.
Japanese Terraces Experiences - When we are tired of the same old Pentapitch, and somebody is on Sasquatch, we do Japanese Terraces. Besides, it's a great climb, and almost as good as Pentapitch.
Industrial Wall: Assembly Line 5.7

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Directions: Take Little Cottonwood Canyon road east until you reach the White Pine trailhead. Follow the White Pine trail for 1 mile until you reach a junction. Follow the Red Pine trail from here until you reach a bridge leading into Maybird Gulch after another mile. Follow the Maybird Gulch trail until it ends at the Maybird Lakes. From the lakes head south until a lowpoint between Maybird Gulch and Hogum Fork appears to the right (west). Go over this notch, and into Hogum Fork. Cut southwest around the base of Peak 11,137 to the base of the wall. This is a very long approach, so plan on a very long day, or possibly an overnighter.

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Directions: Take Little Cottonwood Canyon road east until you reach the White Pine trailhead. Follow the White Pine trail for 1 mile until you reach a junction. Follow the Red Pine trail from here until you reach a bridge leading into Maybird Gulch after another mile. Follow the Maybird Gulch trail until it ends at the Maybird Lakes. From the lakes head south until you reach the north face of the Pfeifferhorn. Other climbs are located on the other (west) side of the ridge dividing Hogum Fork and Maybird Gulch.

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Directions: Take Wasatch Blvd until the Bells Canyon trailhead is reached south of 9400 So. Follow the Bells Canyon trail until the second bridge, below the waterfall. Cross this bridge, and head back downstream on the north side of the stream until you reach the base of Bells Towers.

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Directions:

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