Wasatch Front Mountaineering & Hiking Guide
Millcreek Ridge
General Information: This ridge dividing Millcreek Canyon from Big Cottonwood Canyon holds the northernmost 10,000 footers in the Wasatch. The highest point on this whole ridge is Gobbler's Knob, at an elevation of 10,246. The peaks along this ridge include Gobbler's Knob, Mount Raymond, Silver Peak, Scott Hill, and Guardsman Peak. These peaks are all accessible by trails and have few mountaineering routes. The best time to find good snow for mountaineering along the whole ridge is April-late May from the south and mid April-late May from the north. By June, all of the good mountaineering snow is gone. This area of the Wasatch is not nearly as rugged or steep as the areas to the south and is characterized by rounded, vegetated summits.
Mount Raymond (10,241) & Gobblers Knob (10,246)
General Information: Mount Raymond and Gobblers Knob are commonly done together in a day, and this is why they are generally via Porter Fork, Bowman Fork, Butler Fork, or Alexander Basin. Raymond offers more challenging routes than its neighbor in the form of steeper faces from all directions. The Desolation Trail passes below Raymond in upper Maxfield and Mill A Basins, and Gobblers in upper Mill A Basin and along its southeast face. The summit of Mount Raymond will be obvious, as it is the last 10,000 footer before the ridge drops towards the Salt Lake Valley. The summit of Gobblers Knob is the northern summit of the two on the summit ridge, and as of July, 1998, has a summit register.
Porters Fork (Class 1,Snow 1/2) - Begin at the Terraces campground in Millcreek Canyon. You can drive partway up Porter Fork to the trailhead. It is 4.5 miles from the Bowman Fork trailhead up Porter Fork, and 4 miles from the last building on the Porter Fork Road to the summit. The Porter Fork Trail appears to head straight south towards Raymond but skirts the summit to the west. It is here, just before Maxfield Basin that the trail meets the Desolation Trail. Get on the Desolation Trail, and follow it around Raymond to a trail which heads back north towards the pass between Gobblers and Raymond. From the pass, head to the summit of your choice. This route should be snow-free in May most years. A variation is to cut up the southeast face of Raymond on snow once you round the bend into Mill A Basin. There are many places to do this, but it is recommended that you not do this once the snow is gone for the year, as it creates erosion. When there is snow, this route is Snow 1. There is also the possibility of doing the north face and northwest ridge of Raymond from Porters Fork. Either of these routes would be Snow 2 when snow is present. Getting to the north face requires that you cut into the first drainage east of Porter Fork when you are just past Pole Canyon, and following this drainage to the north face of Raymond.
Bowman Fork (Class 1, Snow 1) - Begin at the Terraces campground in Millcreek Canyon, and drive up to the second left, where you will be able to park, and follow the trail up Bowman Fork. This trail will follow Bowman Fork until about 7,000 feet, where it will cut south toward White Fir Pass, and into Yellow Jacket Gulch. From there, it steadily climbs straight towards Gobblers Knob, until it reaches Baker Spring and Mine. Once there, the trail cuts southwest below Gobblers Knob, towards the pass between Raymond and Gobblers. Hike to the pass, and then either way to the summit of Raymond or Gobblers. When this area is snow-filled, the mountaineering possibilities are limited to following the trail, with a variation heading up the northwest face of Gobblers possible.
Butler Fork (Class 1, Snow 1) - Park at the trailhead at the far west end of Reynolds Flat, at the Butler Fork trailhead, and begin hiking north, up Butler Fork. There is a junction a half mile up the trail, where you will cut up the left fork and head up some switchbacks towards Circle-All Peak. Once you gain the ridge, continue along the flat trail towards Gobblers Knob. This trail intersects with the Desolation Trail, where you will head west until the trail heading towards the pass is reached. From there, gain the pass and head for either summit. There is also the possibility of going up the south face of Gobblers or southeast face of Raymond, when they are covered in snow. Both variations are Snow 1.
Alexander Basin (Class 2, Snow 2) - This route begins on the south side of Millcreek Canyon a quarter mile past The Firs. The route goes straight up Alexander Basin, and clears the treeline in the first half mile. Once you get past the treeline, just head straight towards the summit. When conditions are good, this route is Snow 2
Silver Peak (10,006)
General Information: Silver Peak is the lowest peak over 10,000 feet in Salt Lake County, but elevation is no gauge of difficulty. It is a relatively easy peak to reach, but isn't the easiest. The Great Western Trail passes just below this peak's summit on the south face. The most popular routes are Beartrap Fork, Desolation Lake, and the Great Western Trail from Scott Hill. Silver Peak had a summit register on the summit in June of 1999, but it was gone in July of 2000. Silver Peak is also barely noticable as a distinct peak along the ridgeline, and seems more like a bump barely protruding above 10,000 feet.
Mill D North Fork (Class 1, Snow 2) - This trailhead is located across the main road from Reynolds Flat, and there is a large parking lot for room to park. The trail starts by traversing the slope to the north, and bends into Mill D North Fork, passing on the opposite side of the stream from some houses. The trail forks 1.5 miles from the beginning, the left fork going to Dog Lake, and the right going to Desolation Lake. Follow the right fork all the way to Desolation, and then up to the Great Western Trail, and on to Silver Peak. When there is spring snow, the section climbing above Desolation Lake would be Snow 2, but the rest is Snow 1. This, along with upper Beartrap Fork are the only decent snow routes on Silver Peak. Many mountaineering possibilities exist in the bowl surrounding Desolation Lake, but be cautious of the mix of steep terrain and trees. Snow for mountaineering should be present on this route from late April to May.
Beartrap Fork (Class 1, Snow 1) - The Beartrap Fork trailhead is located in Big Cottonwood Canyon, on the left (north) side of the road, just past the Silver Fork Lodge. There is a sign that says Beartrap Fork, and this is a good place to park. Follow the paved road that runs parallel to the main road for about .25 miles, until a dirt road cuts up (north) into the canyon. Follow this, and it turns into a trail, and goes all the way up Beartrap Fork, to the ridge above Desolation Lake, and below Desolation Peak. Snow for mountaineering should be present here from late April to May.
Great Western Trail Via Scott Hill (Class 1) - For this route you will ascend Scott Hill via Scott Pass, as described in the next section, and just continue along the Great Western Trail to Silver Peak. It is about miles from Scott Hill, so don't confuse it with an 10,009 foot unnamed peak along the way. The summit is a short walk from the trail, and is easy to gain.
Scott Hill (10,116) & Guardsman Peak (10,028)
General Information: Scott Hill overlooks Park City Ski Resort, but is most accessible from Big Cottonwood Canyon. There is a building with a fence just below the summit, as well as an old mining shack, and many houses on its south face. Both peaks are also good winter hikes on snowshoes. There is only one good route on Scott Hill, the Scott's Pass route, and not really any routes on Guardsman Peak.
Scott's Pass (Class 1) - This route begins at the second hairpin curve, or first past the winter gate on the Guardsman Pass road. Start down this trail, which heads northeast to Scott Pass. From the pass, 2 trails head northwest, one towards an old shack, and one towards the summit. The one that is further uphill leads to the summit. Just follow this trail to the building below the summit, and walk the short distance to the summit. To get to Guardsman Peak from Scott's Pass, just head east from the pass up the hill.
Guardsman Pass (Class 1) - From Guardsman Pass, follow the dirt track, which runs parallel to the Guardsman Pass road, just to the north, until a gate is reached. From this gate, follow the road around until you reach a chairlift. From the lift, walk east to the summit.
Brighton Area
General Information: The circle of peaks surrounding Brighton are a diverse group of peaks. From the rugged north face of Honeycomb Cliffs to the gentle tree-covered summit of Preston Peak. The highest peak in the Brighton area is Mount Wolverine, at an elevation of 10,795. The peaks in this area include Mount Venture, Clayton Peak, Preston Peak, Pioneer Peak, Sunset Peak, Mount Wolverine, and Honeycomb Cliffs. All of these peaks overlook Solitude and Brighton Ski Resorts, and are easy to access, depending on avalanche danger, in winter. The mountaineering season for these peaks is generally late April to mid June, and earlier for southerly approaches. The peaks in this area begin to hint at the more rugged summits to the west and south in the range.
Honeycomb Cliffs (10,479)
General Information: This peak rises above the Solitude Ski Area, and its north face can seem very menacing in winter. The Summit lift of Solitude reaches to the pass leading into Honeycomb Canyon, and makes a great starting point for winter ascents and backcountry skiing into Wolverine Cirque. The two most common routes of ascent are from Twin Lakes Pass and the Sol-Bright trail. There are also many mountaineering and rock climbing opportunities on the peak's north face.
South Ridge (Class 2) - The south ridge route from Twin Lakes Pass is the best approach from Little Cottonwood Canyon, and is slightly more time consuming than the ascent via the Sol-Bright Trail from the Big Cottonwood side. From Brighton, follow the Twin Lakes trail to the Twin Lakes Pass. Head north up the ridge from the pass. It is a steep but easy scramble to the summit. From Alta, find the Forest Service garage on the north side of the road, and follow the trail which branches east right above the garage. Follow this trail to the pass.
Sol-Bright Route (Class 2) - This route is the most direct from Big Cottonwood. Park at the base of the Millicent and Evergreen lifts at Brighton, and follow the main service road up to the base of the dam for Twin Lakes. There is a wide trail to the right (north) of the lake, which heads up and west. Follow this trail to the top of the Summit lift at Solitude. From the lift, head southwest along the ridge, which bends west after a while. Follow the ridge to the summit.
North Face (Snow 2) - There are many snow chutes which provide possibilities for mountaineering on Honeycomb Cliff's north face. From the top of the Summit lift, drop into Honeycomb Canyon to the west, and traverse to any route.
Mount Wolverine (10,795)
General Information: Mount Wolverine is a twin summit with Tuscarora, but Tuscarora doesn't rise the 200 feet needed to be a separate peak, so Wolverine is the 10,000 footer. This peak has many mountaineering possibilities on its north face, as well as easy trails to the summit. Wolverine is also of interest to backcountry skiers, due to the chutes on its north face.
Catherine Pass Trail (Class 1) - Take the trail to Catherine Pass as described in the Sunset/Pioneer section, but upon reaching the pass, follow the trail that leads north towards Tuscarora. There is a trail which can be followed over Tuscarora, and on to Wolverine. The ridge connecting the peaks is flat, and easily followed.
Twin Lakes Pass Trail (Class 1) - Begin at the base of the Millicent and Evergreen lifts at Brighton Ski Area, and follow the main service road up to the dam at the lake. From the lake, go around it, and head follow the trail to the pass. Once at the pass, start hiking up the ridge that leads south to the summit.
Tuscarora Chutes (Snow 3) - There are 2 major chutes present, but they both seem to be about Snow 3 in difficulty. From Lake Mary (described in Sunset section), cut into the bowl surrounded by Tuscarora, Wolverine, and Millicent. Head towards the base of Tuscarora, to the south. Tuscarora's north face is broken by 2 main chutes. The chute on the left (east) is narrower, and my personal favorite route in the Brighton area. The chute on the right (west) is wider, and may require some scrambling over rocks in the later season. Both chutes put you on the ridge just below Tuscarora's summit. For both, just follow the ridge west to the summit of Wolverine. The chute to the east is more difficult, and may be Snow 4 under icier conditions.
Wolverine-Tuscarora Saddle (Snow 2) - Get into the bowl described in the Tuscarora Chutes route, but continue up the bowl until you are below the saddle between Wolverine and Tuscarora. Pick any of a number of lines and head for the saddle. Once on the saddle, continue west to the summit.
Northwest Ridge Chutes (Snow 2) - Follow the Twin Lakes Pass trail just past the west end of Twin Lakes, around to the Wolverine Cirque. Follow any of the approximately half a dozen of chutes that lead to the northwest ridge.
Sunset Peak (10,648) & Pioneer Peak (10,440)
General Information: Pioneer Peak and Sunset are the closest in mileage of any two of the 10,000 foot peaks. Both peaks are steep on their north faces, but have gentle ridges leading to them. Sunset Peak is the intersection of the Cottonwood ridge, coming from Broads Fork Twins, and the Little Cottonwood-American Fork ridge, coming from Lone Peak, as well as the backbone of the Wasatch, coming from Clayton Peak. Both peaks, specifically Sunset are easy peaks to reach from Alta, and Brighton ski areas, and are more popular than other peaks in the Wasatch, due to their easy approaches. Mountaineering opportunities exist on the north faces as well.
East Ridge (Pioneer)(Class 1) - Hike up the Brighton service roads to the top of the Crest lift, and head west up the ridge that begins there. Be cautious, there is a false summit which may trick you into thinking it is the real summit.
East Ridge (Sunset)(Class 1) - From the summit of Pioneer, continue along the ridge to the summit of Sunset.
Northwest Ridge (Sunset)(Class 1) - Start at Brighton on the trail to Catherine and Mary Lakes, which begins at the south side of the Brighton Parking lot. Hike to the lakes, and then on to Catherine Pass. From the pass, a trail leads southeast up the northwest ridge of Sunset. Follow the trail all the way to the top.
Sunset Peak Trail (Sunset)(Class 1) - This route is the most popular route, and begins just below the Albion Basin campground on the Albion Basin Road in upper Little Cottonwood Canyon. Follow the trail up to the summit. It is a well used trail and is hard to lose.
North Face (Pioneer)(Snow 2) - This route is my favorite on Pioneer Peak, and consists of mostly alpine snow climbing. Start at the Lake Mary/Catherine trailhead, and follow the trail all the way to the bowl below the north face of Pioneer, just past Lake Martha. There is a chute on the left, right next to the ridge on the east side of the bowl. Follow this up a ways, keeping to the left. At the top, you will cut left into another nice chute, which leads to the east ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit.
North Face (Sunset)(Snow 3) -This is probably one of the best routes in the Brighton area, since it is an open snowfield, and north facing. From the Catherine Pass trail mentioned above, hike to Lake Catherine, then cut south to the base of this snowfield, and begin climbing. Just pick a line and aim for the summit
Preston Peak (10,315) & Clayton Peak (10,720)
General Information: Clayton Peak and Preston Peak both overlook Brighton Ski Area. Preston Peak is actually within Brighton Ski Area boundaries, and is a short walk from the Snake Creek Chairlift at Brighton during the winter. Both peaks have decent mountaineering routes, as well as walk-up routes. These peaks are close to each other, as well as close to Venture and Pioneer. Doing both at the same time is recommended, since Preston is not far from Clayton. Preston Peak is unnamed on the Hiking the Wasatch trail map, but there is a sign on the summit which says Preston Peak, 10,315 feet, so we call this peak Preston Peak.
North Ridge (Clayton)(Class 1, Snow 1) - The north ridge of Clayton joins it to Venture, and is commonly done in conjunction with Mount Venture. From the summit of Venture, head south to the low point between these peaks, and then follow the ridge to the summit of Clayton Peak. During mountaineering season, this route is a nice route to learn the basics of summer snow travel on.
Northwest Face (Clayton)(Class 1, Snow 2) - The northwest face of Clayton is a great route for summer mountaineering, especially if you keep to the steeper faces right (west) of the Great Western Chairlift. Just hike along the ski resort service roads to the bottom of the Snake Creek lift, then cut southeast to the open northwest face of Clayton Peak. When the snow is gone, follow the service roads or trail to the top of the Snake Creek Lift, and walk up the service road to the Great Western lift, and then walk to the top.
North Face (Preston)(Class 1, Snow 2) - The north face of Preston is an interesting mountaineering route, and earns its Snow 2 rating from the fact you are in the trees, not an open area, and a slip could cause you to slide into a tree. Be cautious, but enjoy mountaineering in the trees. To reach this route, follow the service roads at Brighton to the top of the Majestic chairlift. From there, move southeast across the open area to position yourself below the north face, and just head up. Don't do this route once the snow has disappeared, since there is no trail. Follow the service roads and trails to the top of the Snake Creek lift, and the summit is just a few hundred yards southwest of the top of the lift.
West Ridge (Preston)(Class 1, Snow 2) - Follow the service roads to the top of the Crest Express chairlift at Brighton, and head east up the ridge that starts right there. The summit is not far. To do this when there is mountaineering snow, follow the Crest lift all the way. The route earns its Snow 2 from the steep section just below the top, which is the best part of this route.
Preston-Clayton Traverse (Class 1) - From the summit of Preston, make your way down to the top of the Snake Creek lift, and then down to Snake Creek Pass. From the pass, a wide trail leads up to the Great Western lift. From the lift, cut southeast to Clayton's north ridge, and follow it to the summit. Just do this route in reverse coming from Clayton.
Mount Venture (10,420)
General Information: This peak is kind of unique, since it is a name that we came up with as a group, and began using for this peak. We even placed a summit register on the top, with the name Mount Venture on it. It may seem like we think we are special, but we saw an unnamed peak, and thought it needed a name, and Mount Venture seemed appropriate, in our venture for all the tens. This peak is easily accessible from Guardsman Pass, via the Great Western Trail, and may be done in conjunction with Guardsman Peak, Clayton Peak, or others in the area. Venture has limited mountaineering interest since there are a lot of trees on all of its faces and ridges.
North Ridge (Class 1) - This route is the only route other than a traverse from Clayton Peak. There is a trail that starts at Guardsman Pass, and follows the ridge that leads south to Mount Venture. There is a false summit, with a pole sticking out of the ground, but the real summit is just east, and contains a register placed by us.
South Ridge (Class 1) - Follow the north ridge of Clayton until you reach the summit of Venture, which should be obvious.
Cottonwood Ridge
General Information: The Cottonwood Ridge separates Big Cottonwood Canyon from Little Cottonwood Canyon, and has more rugged peaks than Millcreek Ridge to the north or Brighton area to the east. The south side of this ridge is one of the steepest in the Wasatch, and the first trail head on the south side of the ridge in Little Cottonwood Canyon is near Alta Ski Area at the top of the canyon. The north side of this ridge has more canyons leading up to the ridge, and is slightly less rugged. One of the routes on this ridge which has been gaining more popularity is the Cottonwood Ridge Traverse, which traverses Monte Cristo, Unnamed (10,910), Dromedary Peak, Sunrise Peak, and Broads Fork Twins. Tanners Gulch, one of the best mountaineering routes in the Wasatch, is found along this ridge, as well as Unnamed, Dromedary, Kessler, and Sunrise, which are some of the least climbed. 5 of the 7 peaks in this section are located within the Twin Peaks Wilderness area.
Cottonwood Ridge Traverse (Class 3) - There is a route which begins at Alta and goes to Broads Fork Twins. The best time to do this route is late July through September, when the snow is gone. This route will require 2 cars, 1 at Alta, and 1 at either the S-curve TH in Big Cottonwood, Ferguson Canyon TH, or Deaf Smith Canyon TH. Start at Monte Cristo, which is described later. From the summit, head west down a steep face to the notch between Monte Cristo and an unnamed peak. From the notch, head up the ridge to this peak. This is the most difficult part of the hike. Follow the ridge over Peak 11,033, and on to Unnamed 10,910 and Dromedary Peak. Instead of going straight down the ridge, go down it until you are just above Tanners Pass. Go around the top of the cliff separating you from the pass on the left (south). From the pass, go straight up the ridge to Sunrise Peak. From Sunrise, descend to the west to the low point between Sunrise and its west summit. Avoid the west summit by traversing around it to the south. Then hike up to Broads Fork Twins. From Broads, descend Broads Fork, or follow the ridge leading north from the summit to Deaf Smith Canyon or Ferguson Canyon. I recommend using the Broads Fork descent, since you can descend from the Cottonwood ridge any time after Monte Cristo and reach your car at the S-curve. Also, finding the Blanche Fork or Broads Fork trails are easier. This hike is 6.5 miles, with 4,600 feet of vertical gain and 1,300 feet of vertical loss from Superior TH to Broads Fork Twins. From Broads Fork Twins it is 4.5 miles and 5,100 feet vertical loss to
the Broads Fork TH at the S-curve. It is 5.25 miles and 6,100 feet vertical loss from Twins to the Ferguson Canyon TH, and 4.5 miles with 6,100 feet vertical loss to the Deaf Smith Canyon TH. This is one of the most grueling hikes in the Wasatch and should be done only by people familiar with the mountains and mountain weather.
Broads Fork Twin Peaks (11,330)
General Information: Twin Peaks is also known as Salt Lake Twins, but hikers and climbers know this peak as Broads Fork Twins. This peak towers above the Salt Lake Valley, as the culmination of the Cottonwood Ridge, with 4 peaks over 11,000 feet, and many other points over 10,000 feet. The best time for snow climbing is late May to early July. The routes to the top should be snow free by July. In a few sheltered places, snow lingers until late August, or stays year round.
Standard Route (Class 1, Snow 2) - The standard route up Broads follows the Broads Fork trail which begins at the parking lot at the bottom of the S curve in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Follow the Broads Fork Trail to the pond 3 miles up. From the pond, a fain trail heads towards the pass between Broads Fork Twins and Sunrise Peak. Follow the ridge northeast to the summit.
Robinson Route (Class 2, Snow 2) - This route also begins at the Broads Fork trail head in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Follow the same trail 3 miles to the pond, but instead of following the faint trail south, pick your way up the slope to the west, to the north ridge of Broads Fork Twins. Follow this ridge to the summit. There are a few small difficult sections near the top, but should present no challenge to the average hiker. The view of the Salt Lake Valley is better from this route as you climb. Descend via the same route, or the Standard Route.
Ferguson Canyon (Class 2, Snow 2) - The Ferguson Canyon route is very long and grueling, nut is also scenic. The trail can be reached by finding your way to the water tank above Top Of The World Drive, just south of Big Cottonwood Canyon. From the trail head, find your way up Ferguson Canyon. The trail fades away after about 3 to 3.5 miles. From where the trail disappears, head east to the ridge connecting Storm Mountain to Peak 10,350. Head southeast on this ridge over Peak 10,350, then continue on to the north ridge of Broads. The most difficult section are after the trail ends. Descend the same route, or have a car at the S-curve and descend the Standard or Robinson routes.
North Fork Deaf Smith Canyon (Class 2, Snow 2) - This route is much easier than Ferguson Canyon to the north, yet still gives you the opportunity to gain as much elevation. The trail can be reached from Wasatch Blvd., and heads almost due east towards Twins. The trail fades away after about 3 miles, but you can still follow the drainage almost all the way to the north ridge of Twins. Once you gain the ridge, follow the Robinson Route to the summit.
Stairs Gulch (Class 3, Snow 3) - Before I describe this route, I gave it this rating due to the danger of rock fall and avalanches. This route should only be done by experienced mountaineers, with helmets, and avalanche equipment. The Stairs Gulch trail starts across the street from the entrance to Storm Mountain Island Picnic area. There is a trail which heads up the drainage past popular rock climbing areas. The trail fades away after about .75 miles, and route finding is necessary from there. Follow the drainage until it hits the ridge near peak 10,350. From there, follow the route for Ferguson Canyon. It is strongly recommended that you climb this route in early morning when you are doing it as a snow route, and descend via another route. If you are doing it without snow, I would still take another route down, due to the rock fall danger increasing as you are more tired.
Sunrise Peak (11,275) & Dromedary Peak (11,107)
General Information: Dromedary and Sunrise are rugged, seldom visited peaks along the Cottonwood Ridge. However, both have many excellent routes leading to their summits. The best route on these peaks, if not in the Wasatch, is Tanners Gulch. There is also a huge summit cairn on the summit of Sunrise. Best time for snow routes is June and early July. Tanners should be good from mid May until late June. Blanche and Broads Fork trails are snow free by early June, and higher up is snow free by July.
Tanners Gulch (Snow 3) - This route is one of the finest mountaineering routes in Little Cottonwood Canyon. It is great because it starts just above the road, and ends on the Cottonwood Ridge, halfway in between Sunrise and Dromedary. This route is only climbable when snow is present. It can be done when snow isn't there, but is not very pleasant. Park your car at the turnout just above the Tanners Flat campground. There is a trail which leads into the Gulch that starts at the road sign on the north side of the canyon. Follow the streambed south, as it passes between steep cliffs, and gradually steepens as is heads up. The top section is the steepest, especially if a cornice is present. For Dromedary, head down into Broads Fork a few feet from the pass, until there is a break in the cliff to the east. Climb up this, and then follow the east ridge of Dromedary to the summit. For Sunrise, head straight up the east ridge of Sunrise to the summit, and descend the same way. The descent from the pass to the road is the most fun, and I highly recommend bringing a sled.
Broads Fork (Class 2/3, Snow 3) - From the lower S-curve parking lot in Big Cottonwood Canyon, take the trail at the southwest end of the parking lot, labeled Broads Fork. Take this trail for 3 miles until it ends at a pond in Broads Fork. From the pond, a faint trail heads up the canyon. Follow this, then head south-southeast towards the pass between Sunrise and Dromedary Peaks. From the pass, follow the same routes to the summits as above.
Dromedary North Ridge (Class 4) - This route can be reached from Broads Fork and Blanche Fork. There is a notch that separates Dromedary from the minor peak to the north, between Broads and Blanche Forks. From Broads Fork, follow the same route as above, but cut east towards this notch in the upper canyon. From Blanche Fork, hike up to Lake Blanche, then down to Lake Lillian. From Lillian, pick a route west-southwest to this notch. Once you gain the notch, follow the north ridge over fourth class terrain to the summit. I recommend descending via another route.
Dromedary East Ridge (Class 2, Snow 2/3) - This route is the easiest for reaching the summit of Dromedary Peak from Blanche Fork. From Lake Lillian, head up the drainage to the south, which may contain stinging nettle in late summer. Follow this straight towards the summit. You will have to pick your way around cliffs, but should be able to avoid most of them. Descend the same way.
Sunrise West Ridge (Class 3, Snow 3) - Follow the faint trail leading from the pond in Broads Fork to the pass between Broads Fork Twins and Sunrise Peak. From this pass, the terrain gets more difficult as it heads east to the summit of Sunrise. The easiest way to bypass the cliffs is on the south side of the Cottonwood Ridge. This route is more difficult with snow present.
Sunrise North Couloirs (Snow 2/3) - In upper Broads Fork, a number of couloirs lead to the east ridge of Sunrise Peak. Pick any one of these that appear to reach the ridge, and head up. These couloirs are best when snow-filled in late May to June, and maybe into July.
Unnamed (10,910)
General Information: Unnamed Peak is barely a bump on the long ridge connecting Dromedary to Monte Cristo. The best time to do the snow routes is June from the north. Unnamed can also be done in conjunction with Dromedary or Monte Cristo, as part of the Cottonwood Ridge traverse.
North Face (Class 3, Snow 3) - From the S-curve trail head in Big Cottonwood Canyon, take the paved walkway east for a few hundred feet, until a trail heads south. This trail leads up the Blanche Fork to Lake Blanche. Follow the trail 3 miles to Lake Blanche, and follow the fainter trail across the dam and on to a stand of trees south of the lake. From the south end of the trees, follow the rocks to the right of Sundial Peak until you reach a downhill. Go down, and up a slope that leads south. Find a weak point on the cliff to the west, and get on to the summit snowfield.
East Ridge (Class 2, Snow 2) - Follow the same route as above, but follow the drainage you drop into, instead of going to the cliff described above. Follow this drainage southeast, then south to the Cottonwood Ridge. Follow the ridge west to the summit.
Kessler Peak (10,403)
General Information: Kessler Peak has no maintained trail to the summit, but a trail does exist from Cardiff Fork. This trail is difficult to find on the ascent, but easy to find on the descent. Kessler Peak also has a mine just below the summit, and the last few feet to the real summit are Class 2/3, but the rest of the way is easier. Kessler Peak dominates the view for the first few miles of the drive up Big Cottonwood Canyon.
Carbonate Mine Trail (Class 2) - This route begins at the parking lot for the Doughnut Falls trail. To get there, drive up Big Cottonwood Canyon to the Reynolds Flat parking lot. There will be a road with a gate that should be open. Follow this road all the way to the end, where there will be a parking lot. The trail up Cardiff Fork heads west across a creek there. This is the trail you want to take. It is actually a dirt road, which you will follow for 1.5 miles until a pipe crosses the trail. This is where the Carbonate Mine Trail begins. It heads back north for a few feet, then begins ascending the slope towards Kessler Peak. The first few feet of the trail are very overgrown, but soon it opens up the rest of the way. From the mine, head north along the summit ridge to the northern of the twin summits. The very top is Class 2/3.
Cardiac Ridge Traverse (Class 2) - Follow any of the routes to the summit of Superior Peak, just east of Monte Cristo. From Superior, begin moving north along the Cardiac Ridge. After .75 miles, the ridge forks. Follow the right (north) fork all the way to the summit of Kessler Peak.
Monte Cristo (11,132)
General Information: Monte Cristo is commonly confused with Superior Peak, its twin to the east. Debate has always been present over its name, which of the peaks is Monte Cristo, and which is Superior. John Veranth's "Hiking The Wasatch," as well as the trail map "Hiking The Wasatch," show Monte Cristo to be the western of the 2 peaks, which is what I will agree on. This peak also has one of the most active winter avalanche slide areas, in the form of the Superior Slide Area, which has closed the road to Alta, and done damage to buildings on numerous occasions. This slide area is one of the prime mountaineering routes when conditions are safe, however.
Superior Trail (Class 2) - Begin at the Forest service garage on the north side of the Little Cottonwood Road in the town of Alta. Walk up the road leading to houses until a trail leads west. Follow this until it forks, where you will follow the left fork. The trail begins ascending the slope to the north towards Cardiff Pass. From the pass, a trail can be made out which heads west along the ridge. Follow this trail to the summit.
Superior Slide Area (Snow 3) - Begin at the sign on the north side of the Little Cottonwood road which reads �Superior Slide Area.' From this sign begin ascending the snow slope, which heads northwest, all the way to the top. The top should be just below the summit of Superior Peak. Follow the ridge from Superior to the summit of Monte Cristo.
North Flagstaff Peak (10,561)
General Information: Flagstaff Peak is a well known peak above the town of Alta, but it is not the peak. The actual high point lies just north of Flagstaff Peak along the Reed & Benson Ridge and is Unnamed. Because it is unnamed, and just to the north, I have named it North Flagstaff Peak, which seems appropriate. There is also an old mining shaft along the ridge connecting Flagstaff to North Flagstaff.
South Face (Snow 1) - The south face of Flagstaff is a fun route when the conditions are right. Start at the Forest Service Garage in the town of Alta, on the north side of the Little Cottonwood Canyon road. Follow the trail which begins at the road there, and heads west. From the trail, pick a line and ascend the face. From Flagstaff Peak, follow the ridge north to the higher summit.
Flagstaff Peak Trail (Class 1) - Follow the same trail mentioned above until you reach a fork. Take the right branch until it ends. From there, cut up the face of Flagstaff to the top.
Bells Canyon Area
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Beatout Hike (Class 2) -
Rocky Mouth Canyon Peak (10,292)
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Lone Peak (11,253)
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Upper Bells Peak (10,877)
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South Thunder Mountain (11,154)
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Bells Cleaver (10,488)
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North Thunder Mountain (11,150)
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Little Cottonwood-American Fork Ridge
General Information: This ridge divides upper American Fork Canyon from Little Cottonwood Canyon, and includes the highest peak in Salt Lake County, American Fork Twins (11,489). These peaks get more rugged as they head west towards Bells Canyon. The easternmost peaks have been tainted by the ski industry, but the western peaks are quite remote. The eastern peaks are red in color, while the western peaks are gray granite. The point where the colors change is just west of the summit of Red Baldy (11,171). One of the best routes connecting peaks in this area is the Bullion Divide hike. It takes you over Sugarloaf (11,051), Mt Baldy (11,068), American Fork Twins (11,489), and Red Baldy (11,171). It is quite long, and usually requires a car at Albion Basin, and a car at White Pine Canyon. 6 of 10 peaks are located within the Lone Peak Wilderness Area.
Bullion Divide (Class 2) - The Bullion Divide route begins at the Albion Basin campground at the end of the dirt portion of the Little Cottonwood road. From the campground, follow the trail to Secret Lake, then take the trail that heads south along the east side of the lake towards the notch between Devil's Castle and Sugarloaf. This notch is 1.5 miles from the trailhead. Then head west to the summit of Sugarloaf. From the summit, there is a trail that heads west over Mount Baldy, and on to Hidden Peak, which is where the Snowbird tram is. It is 2.75 miles, 2,300 feet gain, and 800 feet loss from Albion Basin to Hidden Peak. From Hidden Peak, descend about 100 feet, heading towards the north ridge of the lower twin. Follow this broken rock ridge to the summit of the lower twin, then follow the wide smooth ridge to the higher peak. Total distance from Albion Basin to AF Twins is 4 miles, 3,000 feet gain, and 900 feet loss. From AF Twins, descend to the west towards Red Top. Once on Red Top, head almost due south towards Red Baldy. Follow this ridge to the summit, passing around cliffs near Red Baldy as necessary. Red Baldy is 5.25 miles, 3,600 feet gain, and 1,500 feet loss from Albion Basin. From Red Baldy, pick a route down the northwest face, or follow the southwest ridge to the gap between Red and White Baldy, then down into White Pine Canyon. Another option is hiking back to Hidden Peak, and trying to scam a free ride down the tram, or just hike back to Albion Basin. If you hike down White Pine Canyon, the total mileage is 10 miles, with 3,600 feet gain, and 5,000 feet of loss.
Hogum Divide (10,516)
General Information: Hogum Divide is a rather insignificant bump on the ridge between Maybird Gulch and Hogum Fork. It is a relatively easy summit to attain. The summit is actually a 10 foot spire. It is easy to climb it to summit, and it is a good feeling standing on top of this spire with the earth below your feet. It is a miniatire version of Starlight Peak (14,200+) in the Sierra Nevada Range in California.
Pfeifferhorn (11,326)
General Information: The Pfeifferhorn is one of the most intriguing and fun peaks in the Wasatch, and is my personal favorite. It is shaped like an Alp peak, and sometimes called the Little Matterhorn, due to its resemblance to this famous peak. The Pfeifferhorn has everything for everybody. Its east ridge route is a way for hikers to ascend in late summer, while in spring and early summer it is an excellent mountaineering route. Its north face has many challenging rock climbs, and its west ridge leads to some of the most remote terrain in the Wasatch. Its northwest couloir is one of the finest mountaineering routes in the Wasatch, as well as a challenging winter backcountry ski route.
East Ridge via Red Pine (Class 3, Snow 3) - This route is the most common route for ascending the Pfeifferhorn. It begins at the White Pine/Red Pine trail head on the south side of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Take this trail up Red Pine Canyon to Upper Red Pine Lake. A faint trail leads west from there to the summit. After reaching the ridge joining White Baldy to the Pfeifferhorn, head west until the ridge becomes large boulders. A short section with a few class 3 moves in this boulder field is encountered just below the summit pyramid. Follow the trail to the summit and descend the same route.
Maybird Headwall (Snow 3) - Follow the same trail into Red Pine Canyon until a bridge crossing the Red Pine Creek is encountered 2.5 miles from the trail head. Cross this bridge, and follow the trail into Maybird Gulch to Maybird Lakes where the trail ends. From the end of the trail, head south to the base of the Upper Maybird Headwall. Pick one of the snow slopes leading to the east ridge, and on to the summit. Descend via the same route or East Ridge. This route is not recommended when snow is not present.
Northwest Couloir (Class 4, Snow 4) - The northwest couloir of the Pfeifferhorn is a skiers dream in winter, but is also an excellent mountaineering route in early summer. Caution should be used on this route as it is prone to avalanche and rock fall. A climbing helmet should be worn, and climbers should be experienced. Begin this route at the White Pine/Red Pine trail head. Follow the trails into Maybird Gulch to Maybird Lakes. From the lakes, head southwest to a notch between Hogum Divide and the Pfeifferhorn that leads into Hogum Fork. Walk around the base of the Pfeifferhorn almost to the west side before the northwest couloir is reached. Follow the couloir to the summit. It is not recommended that you descend this route. The East Ridge or Maybird Headwall are the best descent routes. This route can also be done when snow is not present, but the rock fall danger is higher.
White Baldy (11,321)
General Information: White Baldy is where the Little Cottonwood-American Fork Ridge intersects the Pink Pine Ridge and ridge leading south to Box Elder Peak. White Baldy has many great mountaineering routes, especially the northeast face and northwest face routes.
East Ridge (Class 3, Snow 2/3) - Start at the White Pine trail head in Little Cottonwood Canyon, and follow the trail to the point where the trail begins to drop into White Pine Lake. From here, head up canyon to the low point between Red Baldy and White Baldy. From there, just head southwest then west to the summit of White Baldy. This route is excellent when snow is present in June through mid July. This route is not too difficult, just use caution descending the ridge. An alternate descent is the west ridge, then hiking down Red Pine Canyon to the same trail head.
Northeast Face (Snow 3) - This is an excellent snow route, but is not advisable when the snow is gone, due to erosion. Follow the White Pine Trail to White Pine Lake. From the lake, head south to a snow couloir cutting up to the east ridge of White Baldy. Take this couloir to the ridge and on to the summit.
Northwest Face (Snow 3) - Begin at the White Pine/Red Pine trail head on the south side of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Follow this trail until the White Pine/Red Pine trail split at 1 mile. Take the Red Pine Fork until you reach the end of the trail at Upper Red Pine Lake. From Upper Red Pine Lake, head south-southeast to the base of the Northwest face. Follow any good line to the summit ridge, and then on to the summit. This route is not recommended when snow isn't present.
West Ridge (Class 3, Snow 2) - Follow the Red Pine Trail as described above to Upper Red Pine Lake. From the lake, head southwest to the west ridge of White Baldy. Just follow the ridge to the summit. Some skill is required for navigating around large boulders to the summit.
Box Elder Peak (11,101)
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Red Baldy (11,171)
General Information: Red Baldy is a long hike, but is not technical. The best approach is from White Pine Canyon, but it is also done from AF Twins, or as part of the Bullion Divide route. Best snow mountaineering time is June and early July.
Southwest Ridge (Class 1/2) - This route is the easiest way up Red Baldy, and mostly follows the White Pine trail, which is an old dirt road. Start at the Whit Pine trail head, which is the first trail head on the south side of Little Cottonwood Canyon. Take this trail to the Red Pine trail split, 1 mile up, then follow the trail leading up White Pine Canyon. Follow this trail for another 4 miles to the point where the trail begins to drop into White Pine Lake. From this point, leave the trail, heading south, following above the White Pine drainage. Head southeast towards the southwest ridge of Red Baldy. Follow the ridge to the summit. This is also a route up White Baldy, but the east ridge of White Baldy is more difficult.
Northwest Ridge (Class 2) - Follow the same White Pine trail, but leave the trail at a meadow approximately 4.5 miles from the trail head. Head southeast to follow the northwest ridge of Red Baldy. Descend the same route or southeast ridge.
Northwest Face (Snow 2) - Leave the White Pine trail just above where you would leave it to do the northwest ridge. Pick a route up to the summit that seems snow-filled. This route is only recommended when snow is present, due to damage from erosion that would occur if snow wasn't present. Best snow conditions are in June and early July.
American Fork Twins (11,489)
General Information: AF Twins is the highest peak in Salt Lake County, but not the hardest. Snowbird Ski Resort is just below this mountain's north face, but luckily stays off of this peak's summit. The one positive aspect of Snowbird is that it makes access easy if you don't want to hike through the resort, via the tram. Best time for snow mountaineering is mid May through early July. This peak is easy to access in winter, but as always, beware of avalanches.
Hidden Peak (Class 2, Snow 2) - This route leaves Hidden Peak and takes the north ridge of the lower twin. Follow this ridge to the summit, and head west on the easy ridge connecting the Twins.
North Face (Snow 2) - This route also starts at Hidden Peak, but follows the service road down to the base of the north face. From the road, pick a good route up the face. This route is only good in snow, and is just loose rock when the snow is gone.
Sugarloaf (11,051) & Mount Baldy (11,068)
General Information: Sugarloaf and Mount Baldy are both located above Alta Ski Resort, one of Utah's best ski areas. These peaks are relatively safe in the winter, due to their close proximity to Alta. These peaks are also easily accessible for people who don't climb or hike much. The best snow mountaineering time is late May through early July.
East Ridge (Class 1) - Start at the Albion Basin campground at the end of the dirt portion of the Little Cottonwood Canyon road. Take the trail to Secret Lake, and follow the trail south along the east side of Secret Lake. This trail leads to the notch between Sugarloaf and Devil's Castle. Head west from this notch to the summit. Continue west down to Germania Pass and then on to Mount Baldy. There is a trail the whole way from Sugarloaf to Baldy. Descend via Germania Pass.
Germania Pass Trail (Class 1) - Take the same trail as above to Secret Lake, but head west around the north end of Secret Lake. Follow this trail to Germania Pass. From the pass, head to either peak.
Mount Baldy North Chutes (Snow 2/3) - Park at the lower Alta ski resort, and take the service roads south into Collins Gulch. Once at the top of the gulch, find a good couloir, and head up. These are best done in May/June snow.
Hidden Peak (Class 1) - Hike to the top of Hidden Peak, or ride the tram, and head northeast on an easy trail to the summit of Mount Baldy. Return via the same route.
Wasatch Front Ice Climbs
Little Cottonwood Canyon - Scruffy Band
Directions: Right were 9400 So. and Wasatch Blvd come together to form Little Cottonwood Canyon road is a parking lot for the quarry trail. Park here, and head across the dry streambed up the trail to the south. It will lead to the bottom of the climbs.
Scruffy Experiences - This is where Chris and Jon taught James to ice climb in 1997/98. The main route is pure ice, with a rap off at the top. James did fall here with Duane in 1999, with a broken leg. His screws pulled out after he lost a crampon and tried to lower off. We have climbed here many times, sometimes successful.
Little Cottonwood Canyon - Coalpit Gulch
Directions: Drive up Little Cottonwood Canyon road until you reach the power substation 1.9 miles from the Y junction. Park here, and head across the bridge to the trail which runs parallel to the creek. Follow the trail to another trail which cuts right and towards Pentapitch. If you cannot find this trail, head towrds the obvious opening of Coalpit Gulch. Once you get into the narrow gulch, you can see many routes on the right side below the first waterfall.
Coalpit Gulch Experiences - James free soloed in this area in March 1999, and returned a few days later with Keith and Dan to do more exploring. They didn't do any routes, but had a good time exploring and wading through hip deep snow.
Pepperwood Falls
Directions: Go south on Wasatch Blvd from 9400 So. until you reach a mormon church on the right and the Lost Falls development on the left. Turn into the development to the east, and follow the road until its first switchback. There is a trail that starts here, and leads east to the waterfall.
Fallen Angel WI4 This route follows the left side of the waterfall, and is a good climb, but has sketchy ice pro. It is possible to use rock pro in the rock to the left, but ice screws are not great here. You can walk off the top, by going left at the top and a long way around.
Right Side WI3 This side of the waterfall is easier, but the pro is not as good. The rock to the right isn't as good for gear, but the ice is better for screws. Use the same walk off.
Pepperwood Falls Experiences - Jon discovered this area, but James was the first to do a route (Right Side). Fallen Angel still hasn't seen an ascent from us, because it fell down, or Right Side just seems more appealing. We doubt James' ascent of Right Side was a FA, but it is not in the Wasatch Ice guidebook, which just came out. James soloed up the right side of the falls and returned later that day with Dan to find Fallen Angel had fallen, hence the name. He had been ice bouldering on it that February 1999 morning. They ended up doing the right side again. Jon and Chris did Right Side free solo in January of 2001. Matt and Dan have also done some ice bouldering here in winter of 2000/2001.