Southern California Climbing Guide
Rock Climbing
Mountaineering and Hiking
The Falls
Directions: The Falls are located on the Ortega highway (74) east of the store on the highway, just after the first switchback. There is a large turnout on either side of the road. Park here, and head down a trail on the north side of the road. This trail leads into a drainage which contains 4 good rocks for climbing, as well as decent bouldering.
Ziggy Boulder: Left 5.9 - This boulder is the lowest downstream of the 4 rocks. It has 2 main cracks. This route follows the left one.
Ziggy Boulder: Right 5.7 - This boulder is the lowest downstream of the 4 main rocks at the Falls. This route follows the right crack on the rock.
Elephant Boulder: Face 5.10 - This is the second rock in the Falls. It can be easily toproped. It starts just to the right of a large easy crack.
Elephant Boulder: Thin Crack 5.10 - There are 2 parallel cracks which make up the 2 best climbs on this rock. It can be done as a layback. The crux is where the crack runs out near the top. I feel this climb really runs 5.9, not 5.10.
Elephant Boulder: Wide Crack 5.8 - The right crack is formed by the main wall and a large boulder to the right. I feel this route runs 5.7 instead of 5.8.
Pinnacle Boulder: Left 5.10 - The pinnacle-like boulder above the drainage near Elephant boulder can be toproped. The thin left crack is 5.10.
Pinnacle Boulder: Right 5.8 A4 - The thin right crack on the rock can be toproped, but if done trad runs A4 at the top, according to the guide book. I have only done this route until it turns to aid climbing on toprope.
Waterfall: Left Corner 5.7 - This route along with all the others on Waterfall Rock can be toproped, but the best anchors are back from the edge. It can be tricky climbing here when there is water present in the bottom. This crack is in the corner, and is an excellent route.
Waterfall: Left Crack 5.9 - This route is located just to the right of the 5.7 corner crack on the main waterfall face. It crosses to the 5.7 route to the left near the top to go around the large overhanging boulder at the top.
Waterfall: Middle Crack 5.10 - This crack and flake system goes straight up just to the right of Left Crack (5.9). It passes just to the right of the large boulder creating an overhang.
Waterfall: Right Overhang 5.10 - This crack goeas straight up to an overhang, then over it to cut left and join Middle Crack (5.10).
Waterfall: Right Face & Crack 5.10+ - This climb does not go quite as high as the rest, but is still a good hard 5.10. It starts just right of Right Overhang (5.10), and keeps to the right of the overhang in a crack.
Suicide Rock
Directions: From the 243 in Idyllwild, take North Circle Drive 1 mile to the intersection with South Circle Drive. Turn right on to South Cricle Drive, then left on to Fern Valley Road. Park at the water tanks. The trail is on the left side of the road as you approach. It crosses a stream to a paved road. Turn left and follow the road until a climbers path heads up. Follow this trail to the base of Weeping Wall.
Weeping Wall: Commencement 5.9 - This route is located on a long slab on the left side of the wall. Layback the right edge. At the top, head right, then left to the flake. 2 pitches.
Weeping Wall: Sampson 5.9 - This route follows the left dihedral which is the right of Weeping Wall. 2 pitches.
Weeping Wall: Goliath 5.7 - This route follows the flaring chimney to the right of Goliath. 2 pitches.
Weeping Wall: David 5.7 - This route is the small crack to the right of Goliath. It requires you to cross from the chimney to the parallel crack. 2 pitches.
Weeping Wall: Delila 5.8 - This route is the right facing open book to the right of David. It moves on to a ledge and chimney at the top. 2 pitches.
Taquitz Rock
Directions: Follow the same directions as Suicide, but continue past the water tanks to the Humber Park parking lot. An Adventure Pass is required to park here. Follow the Ernie Maxwell trail, just past the Humber Park sign. It cuts into a stream, then west. Follow one of the paths to the left to reach Taquitz. Lunch Rock is where the stokes litter is located. Route info will be here as soon as we climb here.
Dixon Lake
Directions: From I-15 in Escondido, exit on and head east. Follow this road until signs for Dixon Lake appear. Turn left on to the access road for Dixon Lake and follow it until a guard station. There is no entrance fee, but the park closes at sundown. Park at the second lot to appear on the left. Across the street is a trail leading around a fence to the base of the cliff. Many of these routes can be toproped.
Left Face 5.6 - This route follows the face just to the left of the walk off. A variation cuts left and runs 5.8.
Layback Crack 5.7 - This route is a great layback which leads to 2 horizontal cracks. Either crack is climbable to exit. The left one is a bit trickier.
Joshua Tree: Indian Cove
Directions: From SR-62 in Joshua Tree, head east until signs are present for Indian Cove campground. Turn right (south) here. Follow the road all the way to the campground.
Short Wall: Linda's Crack 5.2 - All climbs from Linda's Crack, down to the right can be descended by a Class 3 downclimb off the rock to the east. It's only a 5.2, but it is a pretty good climb, requiring body jams in a large crack. It can be toproped.
Short Wall: Linda's Face 5.6 R - This face climb is easy, except for the start. The route starts on the right side of the face, and cuts left, but a more difficult variation starts on the middle and left sides of the face. The difficulty is that there are no handholds, it's all feet.
Short Wall: Tight Shoes 5.7 R - This climb is the face just to the right of a large gully. It can be toproped, but protection is back a ways from the edge. It is mostly face climbing with a short diagonal crack halfway up.
Short Wall: Double Crack 5.3 - This climb is the crack just to the right of Tight Shoes. It is easily protected, but can also be toproped. Despite its low rating it is a good climb. It goes straight up the crack, then crosses over to a crack which starts on the left, and tops out.
Short Wall: Up To Heaven 5.8 R/X - This climb is the face to the right of Double Crack. It can be toproped, and is best that way, due to its R/X rating. It is face climbing most of the way, followed by a short crack at the top.
Short Wall: Toe Jam Express 5.3 - This climb is just to the right of Up To Heaven. It is well protected and can be toproped. Despite its low rating, it is a good climb. It follows the crack all the way to the top.
Short Wall: Steady Breeze 5.7 X - This climb is on the face just to the right of Toe Jam Express. It is basically a free climb unless toproped.
Short Wall: SOB 5.6 - Probably the best crack on the short section of the Short Wall, SOB follows the crack to the right of Steady Breeze all the way to the top. It is well protected, and can be laybacked.
Short Wall: Gotcha Bush 5.4 R/X - This climb is best done toproped, and follows the face just left of the final crack. It is all easy face climbing, with a short section of easy crack climbing.
Short Wall: Right N Up 5.8 X - This climb starts in a crack, but quickly heads on to the face just left of the final crack to the right on this wall. It is best done on toprope.
Short Wall: Donna T's Route 5.5 - This climb is the final crack on Short Wall, and is easily protected as well as toproped. It tops out right near the walk-off.
Joshua Tree: Hidden Valley
Directions: From SR-62 in Joshua Tree, turn south on to Quail Springs Road. Follow this road until Hidden Valley campground appears on the left. Park in the campground.
San Jacinto Peak (10,804)
General Information:San Jacinto Peak is the highest peak in the San Jacinto mountain range, and one of the highest peaks in southern California. San Jacinto's north face is one of the most rugged faces in the country, rising from around 3,000 feet to 10,804 feet. The summit has a stone hut, and summit marker. The best season for hiking is from early May to late October. This peak is also fairly easy to reach with snowshoes in winter. There are a number of ways to hike up San Jacinto Peak. The easiest way is via the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. To get there, exit I-10 on to SR-111, and head southeast towards Palm Springs. Turn west on to Tramway Road, and drive to the tram. Tickets are expensive, at about $20.00 each. The most popular route is via the Devil's Slide Trail from Idyllwild. Take SR-243 south from I-10, or SR-74 east from I-15 or I-215, to SR-243 north. From SR-243 in Idyllwild, turn east on to North Circle Drive for 1 mile, until South Circle Drive is reached. Turn right on to South Circle Drive, then an immediate left on to Fern Valley Road. The Humber Park trail head is here, which is where the Devil's Slide trail begins.
Round Valley Route (Class 1) - This route comes from the top of the tram. Follow the trail leading out of Long Valley into Round Valley, past the Round Valley campground, until Wellman divide is reached. From the Wellman divide, turn north on to the Deer Springs trail, which heads straight to the summit.
Devil's Slide Route (Class 1) - This route can be crowded on summer weekends, but is still a pleasant route. Follow the Devil's Slide trail to Saddle Junction. From the junction, follow the Pacific Crest Trail north until you reach another intersection. From the second intersection, go right, towards Wellman Divide. At the divide, head up the Deer Springs trail to the summit.
San Gorgonio Mountain (11,499)
General Information: San Gorgonio Mountain is the highest peak in southern California. It is located in the San Bernardino Mountains, just east of San Bernardino, California. To reach the trailhead at Big Falls picnic area, which is the most popular route, take I-10 to Alabama Street in San Bernardino. Take Alabama north to Lugonia Avenue (SR-38), and follow it east past the San Gorgonio Ranger office to Mill Creek Canyon. Follow the Mill Creek Canyon road to Big Falls picnic area, which is where the trail head for San Gorgonio is located.